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Discussion in 'The 21 Club' started by 40Pirate, Oct 26, 2006.
Ok lets see them!
G-21L, G-21, G-30
Wanna kill these ads? We can help!
Very nice collection pirate!
Here's my baby
Here is my G21 duty gun and his little brother the G30 for off duty, both with NP3 and grip reductions done by Robar.
Who did your slides and for how much?
You Should not put your guns on the U. S. Flag. Check check below for some simple rules for respect for the Flag. Try folding the flag the next time, then mabe place your weapons next to it (not on it) as part of you display. Do not take this the wrong way, respect for the Flag is just one of my pet peeves.
§8. Respect for flag
No disrespect should be shown to the flag of the United States of America; the flag should not be dipped to any person or thing. Regimental colors, State flags, and organization or institutional flags are to be dipped as a mark of honor.
The flag should never be displayed with the union down, except as a signal of dire distress in instances of extreme danger to life or property.
The flag should never touch anything beneath it, such as the ground, the floor, water, or merchandise.
The flag should never be carried flat or horizontally, but always aloft and free.
The flag should never be used as wearing apparel, bedding, or drapery. It should never be festooned, drawn back, nor up, in folds, but always allowed to fall free. Bunting of blue, white, and red, always arranged with the blue above, the white in the middle, and the red below, should be used for covering a speaker's desk, draping the front of the platform, and for decoration in general.
The flag should never be fastened, displayed, used, or stored in such a manner as to permit it to be easily torn, soiled, or damaged in any way.
The flag should never be used as a covering for a ceiling.
The flag should never have placed upon it, nor on any part of it, nor attached to it any mark, insignia, letter, word, figure, design, picture, or drawing of any nature.
The flag should never be used as a receptacle for receiving, holding, carrying, or delivering anything.
The flag should never be used for advertising purposes in any manner whatsoever. It should not be embroidered on such articles as cushions or handkerchiefs and the like, printed or otherwise impressed on paper napkins or boxes or anything that is designed for temporary use and discard. Advertising signs should not be fastened to a staff or halyard from which the flag is flown.
No part of the flag should ever be used as a costume or athletic uniform. However, a flag patch may be affixed to the uniform of military personnel, firemen, policemen, and members of patriotic organizations. The flag represents a living country and is itself considered a living thing. Therefore, the lapel flag pin being a replica, should be worn on the left lapel near the heart.
The flag, when it is in such condition that it is no longer a fitting emblem for display, should be destroyed in a dignified way, preferably by burning
The flag should never touch anything beneath it, such as the ground, the floor, water, or merchandise.
You're one card short.
Robar did my NP3 job and according to their current price list on their website it would be $125 for the slide only.
Robar Price List
It's a CFV serial number manufactured in April of '97
Here she is. Wilson night sights, X200, 3.5 pound trigger, and a little over 5,000 rounds with beautiful holster wear. This guy is my daily companion at work.
I'm right-handed and you can see some of the abuse that gets dished out daily ... smacking it into walls and car doors and such ... most of the dings are on the base of the magazine.
My Glock 21C with my cheap ebay special light...
<img src="http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/moody_moodz/S3500113.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting" width="400" height="300"></a>
<img src="http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y176/moody_moodz/S3500108.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting" width="400" height="300"></a>
Here is one with a reduction done at Arazona Response Systems
OK, I'll do my best to remember everything I've done to this pistol in the past 4 years. Now, let's see:
The grip is large, but not too large, so I went to a bicycle shop and purchased a 2' piece of skateboard tape. Then, I took some notebook paper and traced out my own grip overlays. Next, I cut these patterns out with an X-Acto razor knife. My personal experience has been that the areas under your trigger finger and thumb are the most important places to cover.
I tried several different brands of commercial grip covers; but, none stood up to the, ‘test of time’. This skateboard tape is, easily, capable of staying put for as long as two years. My original 2’ piece of (standard width) skateboard tape cost me just over 5 bucks and will, probably, last the decade! So far I’ve made one change and found that you can use the old tape pattern in order to trace out the next new one.
(Be sure to lay the old piece down on a sheet of paper to get rid of the sticky glue. Remember to, ‘reverse’ the pattern, too, before - you start cutting. Otherwise, your new cutouts will have the sticky side facing the wrong way!)
The butt has a Jentra grip plug installed; and I do think it keeps the action cleaner. I’ve been able to give the frame a good shot of solvent, shake it all around and, then, invert the frame and pour it out in order to quickly wash the action. I like the profile of the Jentra plug, too; it makes for a nicer looking weapon.
The next change was to throw out the factory plastic guide rod. On WalterGA’s advice I bought a Wolff, non-captured, all-steel guide rod. (Complete with 17# Wolff recoil spring and a 5.5# firing pin spring.) This worked so well, that I decided to get rid of the too soft and spongy factory magazine springs. I went with +5% Wolff magazine springs: They’re thinner, harder, and a lot more, ‘springy’. On the 10 round magazines I, also, found that the thinner diameter Wolff magazine springs allowed me to stuff in that (formerly) difficult 10th round without a problem.
The final spring changes I made were to the firing pin and trigger. First, I took out the factory 5.5# FP spring and installed the Wolff, ‘extra power’ 6# FP spring. Then I removed the factory 5# trigger return spring and installed a heavier 6# Wolff trigger spring. Of course these spring changes required me to have to polish the action in order to bring the trigger pull weight down from a resulting high of 5.6#’s.
This raised the issue of which connector to use? Let me save you a lot of experimenting: The Glock factory 3.5# connector is excellent; it actually measures in at between 4.5# and 4.8#’s, though. The other connectors I tried were, all, acceptable - but not as smooth and, ‘pressure free’ as the factory connector.
Then, I got lucky! The first Lone Wolf 3.5# connector I installed was smooth, but, ‘heavy’. (You could feel a slight, ‘pressure’ when the trigger was pulled.) I complained to, ‘JR’ at Lone Wolf; and he sent me their brand new LWD, ‘skeletonized’ 3.5# connector. After installing it, all I can say is, ‘Wow!’ What a beautiful, super smooth, connector this new LWD turned out to be! It, also, has the added benefit of a slightly different angle that significantly minimizes the usual, ‘front-end trigger slop’ that all other 3.5# connectors are famous for.
Lone Wolf came across with another innovation that has worked out very well for me; but, it did take some extra effort and tinkering in order to get it to work properly: I purchased their, ‘Glock Ultimate Trigger Stop’. When I, first, installed the, ‘GUTS’ unit it wouldn’t hold it’s adjustment for more than, about, 5 or 6 hundred rounds. I liked it; so I took it out, very carefully reset it, test-fired the pistol, and when I was satisfied with the adjustment, I used, ‘PC-7’ epoxy to fix the setscrew, firmly, in place. I’ve, now, got a Glock Model G-21 with PERMANENT zero (trigger) overtravel and minimal front-end, 'mush'.
It’s not exactly a, 'match-grade' trigger; but, trust me, it’s very nice!
Once I had the right action parts in hand, I got out my Dremel tool and Flitz polish. I used an assortment of different shaped felt pads and ran the tool at, about, 5,000 rpm. You’ve got to go nice and slow and apply very little pressure. (Just let the compound do the work for you; and be sure to hold the parts in your bare hands in order to check for overheating!) It took me, something more than, 3 hours to polish up the ENTIRE action: lock block, FP, connector, trigger bar, FP safety, extractor, and depressor guide rod. I brought up ALL surfaces to a bright mirror shine.
You need to pay particular attention to the contact areas around the: (1) striker and cruciform, (2) trigger bar, ‘safety plunger cam’ and FP safety, and (3) friction points between the sides of the trigger bar and connector. (4) ALL of the FP safety, also, needs to be carefully polished, too.
The final result of these changes produced one of the smoothest 4.9#-5.2# trigger pulls I (or anyone else who’s shot my Glock) have ever felt! The pistol will fire ANY ammunition, too – no matter how hard the primer.
In order to give a visual indicator to anyone who handles my pistol that it’s, ‘different’ I used one of LWD’s bright red aluminum slide covers on the rear of the slide. (It’s funny, other shooters always ask me, ‘What’s that red cover all about?’ I smile and reply, ‘See, it’s already working!’
Now we get into a highly subjective area: My personal philosophy of combat shooting involves never firing only one shot, as well as never firing slowly. All of my own pistol practice is double and triple tap – just as fast as I can pull the trigger. Consequently I’m a firm believer in narrow-slit, MUZZLE porting. (Ain’t got no use, at all, for slide porting.) I ordered an oversized 5 1/8”, muzzle ported, match barrel from Bar-Sto Precision; and, then, I used a set of diamond knife sharpeners to fit the barrel to my pistol.
(It’s slow, careful work that you need to do in good light. Most of the fitting is around the vertical sides and across the top of the hood. It’s not, really, all that hard to do. You can use a crayon or, ‘magic marker’ in order to highlight the areas you’re working on. Just take slow easy strokes with a fine, flat surfaced, diamond file. Stop often to fit the parts, together, and check how you’re doing, too.)
For a backup magazine I purchased an extension kit from Arredondo. (Again, on the original advice of WalterGA.) The Arredondo extension kit can be ordered with an oversized Wolff magazine spring; and it works flawlessly – without any risk of ever suddenly, ‘speed-dumping’ on ya. It allows my G-21 to carry 18 rounds! Yes, it’s also too large to carry around all the time installed in the pistol; but, it does make an excellent extra SINGLE magazine to carry on the opposite side of your gun belt.
At the range I always use a Blade-Tech, Kydex holster. It’s very fast, easy to pull from, and cleans up a lot easier than leather. However, for general street use I decided to go, ‘for my lungs’ and purchased a Wm. Tucker, ‘HF-1’, (w/Silver Concho) leather holster and gun belt.
Well, I think that’s about it! Oh, yeah, the sights are Meprolight night sights. I would have gone with the Heinie, ‘Slant Pro, Straight 8’; but, I’m getting on in years; and the larger Meprolight sights are better suited to my present vision. You can’t really do precision pistol shooting with the Mepro's; but, my own combat pistol work ain’t about punching out the center of the target, anyway. I want everything fired quickly and inside 6” at 10 to 15 yards. The Meprolights have proven to be just fine for this sort of shooting.
PS: It'll do this for me. (Maybe better for you!)
At 7 1/2 yards, rapid:
At 16 yards, rapid:
Hey Arc Angel I don't think you were descriptive enough on your upgrades. ......I'm just busting your gonads!