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1911 Hammer/Sear Question.

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by Brucev, Jun 11, 2013.

  1. Brucev

    Brucev

    9,189
    5
    Jul 19, 2009
    Briefly I have a SA GI 1911-A1 that I enjoy shooting. The trigger pull is very heavy. Is it possible to send the hammer and sear out to be properly fitted? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
     
  2. pops572

    pops572

    426
    2
    Jan 22, 2002
    TN
    I think most smiths will require the whole frame to do any type of trigger work. But for a quick "drop-in" nice trigger, go with one of the C&S prefit kits. They are about $100 but very nice triggers for drop ins.


    Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire
     

  3. Brucev

    Brucev

    9,189
    5
    Jul 19, 2009
    Thank you for the information. I was not aware that the frame would be needed to fit the hammer and sear. Also thank you for the information about C&S.
     
  4. seanmac45

    seanmac45 CLM

    6,800
    4,277
    Apr 13, 2000
    Brooklyn, NY
    The geometry of the hammer/sear fit is directly influenced by the placement and angle of the hammer and sear pin holes in the frame. What might fit perfectly in one frame could be a disaster in another. The holes could be improperly placed or not 90 degrees true, and that affects how they interact. Your heavy trigger pull might also be the result of something simple like an incorrect tweak on the three leaf sear spring.

    EGW also offers a prepped set but it is pricey AND top notch quality.

    Good luck.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2013
  5. Brucev

    Brucev

    9,189
    5
    Jul 19, 2009
    Thank you for the heads up about the frame, etc. Over the years I've shot a lot of S&W revolvers. I had thought that a hammer/sear for a 1911 might be handled the same way a hammer/trigger set for a S&W was handled. I was not aware of the issues with frames, etc. Looks like I'll need to give this a lot more thought.
     
  6. Roughedgekid

    Roughedgekid Old Fart

    111
    0
    Feb 12, 2005
    North Carolina
    I have a jig that holds the hammer and sear in thier correct position so you can magnify the fit and see if you have it correct. You still need the frame so you can check the function to make sure it works. The sear spring can also make the trigger a little heavy.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2013
  7. You say the trigger pull is very heavy.
    Is it clean and crisp even though it is heavy?
    Have you measured the pull weight?
    Springfield normally has 5 to 6 pound triggers but I have found them to be pretty clean.
    What are you comparing it to?
    Compare it to a Glock and you may look at it differently.
     
  8. cciman

    cciman

    3,583
    121
    Jan 19, 2009
    SW Ohio
    Springfield warrants their triggers to be within a certain spec range (5-9 pounds), at least on the Loaded. If you send them your gun, and they find it is out of "range", they will fix (free) and you may get a very nice trigger afterwards. If it is within range, they will quote you a price to work on it before sending it back.

    I did this with my Loaded model-- yours may be different. I would call them and ask, they may quote you over the phone.
     
  9. cciman

    cciman

    3,583
    121
    Jan 19, 2009
    SW Ohio
    That is assuming all the other pieces function correctly together after the new pieces go in. I tried a C&S drop-in and it was a disaster, in multiple ways. On a 1911, it is not just the sear/hammer that matter. The sear spring, series 80 hooks, trigger harp, grip safety tab, all interact and play roles in ignition. You may be lucky if they all match, or not.

    Not always, just drop in.