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10-22 will not feed.

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by I Shooter, May 20, 2013.

  1. I Shooter

    I Shooter

    Dec 22, 2011
    I put together a 10-22 from parts and I am having trouble getting it to feed.

    It was built to fire the Aguila 60 gr. The barrel has a 1 in 9 twist. After I got it together I tested it out for function by feed rounds through the action. I then took it out to my range. The first ten rounds went fine. I reloaded the mag and started having feeding problems.

    The first three rounds stuck in the chamber half way in. It was really hard to get them out pulling on the charging handle. I took it back into the house and cleaned it. I checked the chamber to see if it was to tight by dropping a round in the chamber and pulling it back out. That went well, there was no problem. It fell into the chamber and was very easy to pull out. Put it all back together after cleaning and went back to the range. The first three fired then I got four no fires then one round fired that wasn't all the way chambered and blew out the side next to the rim. I went back in the house and cleaned the gun and checked to make sure that the bullet had went out the barrel.

    I then polished the chamber with qtips on the end of a drill with a little Flitz polish. I ran twenty qtips into the chamber half with the Flitz then one with out. It seemed to polish up nice.

    Back to the range. Nothing had changed the first three didn't feed more than half way into the chamber. Then they started going in deeper. Maybe sticking out by only a 1/4". The last round chambered all the way and fired. I filled the mag again and more of the same. I quit for the day.

    The next day I took the new barrel off and put the old barrel on and it failed to feed CCI stingers. They would get stuck half way in the chamber. I changed back to the new barrel then tried to feed the 60gr through it. No luck they would go part way in the chamber part of the time out of 10 rounds only one chambered completely.

    I am at a loss as to what could be wrong. I thought goop or wax was causing the problem but that isn't so because you can drop the rounds in the barrel with out cleaning it with no problems.

    I have ordered a Kidd charging handle with the three springs. May be the old spring isn't giving enough power to put the case in all the way. I do know that I put in a new plastic buffer and it has been beat up really bad. So I ordered the Kid version of the buffer too.

    I am at a loss as to what is wrong. Any one have any ideas? The mags are new and just to be safe I took one apart to clean it and shouldn't have bothered. It was fine as I thought it would be.

    Thank you much for your time.
    Last edited: May 22, 2013
  2. DJ Niner

    DJ Niner Moderator

    Feb 13, 2001
    North-Central USA
    Extractor problems are rare with factory parts, but I've seen a few with custom extractors or custom bolts with non-standard extractor cutouts. Make sure the extractor tension isn't too high, or causing interfering with the case rim as the round slides up the bolt face. If the extractor is too tight to move when the bolt is fully closed, extending too far into the bolt face cutout, or binding on the rims at all during chambering, the base of the round will stop before the round is fully level, which will prevent full chambering. I'd recommend carefully examining 5 rounds to make sure the cases and bullets are clean, not damaged, and aligned. Try to fire these five rounds, and if any fail to chamber, carefully extract them and look for any case or bullet damage.

    If there are any burrs on the side of the case rim, it is probably an extractor, or extractor cutout/notch problem (binding, burr, or a too-sharp edge somewhere). A sharp corner-shaped punch-mark on the side of the case near the rim may indicate the extractor hook is too long. Any damage on the side of the case (like a curved "scalp" mark, for instance) might point to a problem with the chamber mouth. On the heavy, long-bulleted 60-grain rounds, this type of damage might extend all the way to the bottom edge of the bullet. If the nose of the bullet has any damage, it may be a magazine problem (presenting to chamber at the wrong angle), a sharp edge on the chamber, or even firing pin damage from dry-firing (burr on the edge of the chamber).

    Another thing that can interfere with the base of the case sliding up the bolt face during chambering is the firing pin. If it is sticking out of the bolt face during feeding/chambering, it may interfere with the case moving fully into position on the bolt face. Make sure the firing pin is retracting after firing (should be spring-loaded to do so); any burrs or binding that might cause it to stick in the forward position, even briefly, could cause problems like you are describing. If you see a dent on the outer edge of the rim after the firing test, above, it may be a firing pin interference problem.

    Because you experienced similar problems after reinstalling the factory barrel, I am leaning toward a bolt-related (extractor or firing pin) problem. You did the right thing in checking the magazine, but as you said, it's unlike to be the sole cause of your difficulties (although a bad or out-of-spec mag may contribute to a problem; I always use several different mags during function testing, and mark them (#1, #2, #3, etc.) so I can trace stoppages to certain mags, if it comes to that).

    Good luck!
    Last edited: May 21, 2013

  3. I Shooter

    I Shooter

    Dec 22, 2011
    I did as you suggested. I found no marks on the rim. I did find marks on the lead and on the brass case walls. I think the angle the shell is gong into the barrel is off. To steep. The new barrel fits very tight in the receiver. The old barrel has a loose fit. You can turn the barrel around in the receiver with it seated all the in with the old barrel. The new barrel is a press fit. I had to use a wood block to seat it all the way in. I think this tight fit isn't allowing the barrel to seat to the receiver angle that it needs. My plan is to loosen up the fit with 400 grit sandpaper and a 5/8 dowel. I will get back to you on how this worked out.
  4. I Shooter

    I Shooter

    Dec 22, 2011
    Nothing I did changed any thing. I took it to the gun smith and he said give him two weeks. That is all I know at this point.
  5. method


    Mar 27, 2002
    Cleveland, OH
    How many magazines did you try? Factory or aftermarket?
  6. JimBianchi

    JimBianchi Da Da CLM

    Feb 15, 2006
    Las Vegas
    I have three 1022s currently and one of them did the same thing with a variety of mags and ammo.

    I did a ton of research found one comment from someone about loctite in the bolt firing pin channel.

    I had put Red Loctite on the rail screw thread weeks ago, fire 50 rds, the next week, no issues. Now a month later, no feed.

    Turns out the firing pin was stuck forward, not allowing the bullet to obtain the proper angle for feeding.

    I stripped the bolt, found a VERY small bit of loctite, used 400 grit sandpaper in the channel and on the pin, reassembled it and it runs like demon again.

    The roll pin was also slightly over sized and took forever to get out, even with the proper punch. But once out, I re-sized it .01 and it now fits tight, not impossible.

    After 30+years with various 1022s I finally had a major failure not ammo or magazine related. It was completely user error. (I should have pulled the bolt until the loctite dried.)

    Pretty good guns.