My new mod 19 gen4 slide when manually cycled will only go to 1/2 inch near the end of the frame. You must then release the trigger for it to go all the way into battery. Any thought or fixes for this problem would be appreciated...Mumil38
No, didn't know that was possible...Seems to catch on the firing pin release with the raised trigger bar (with the bump on it) and releasing the trigger allows it to go into full battery
The only thing that is happening a half inch from full battery is the firing pin underlug engaging the rear of the trigger bar cruciform, pulling it forward slightly. The cruciform then begins to pull the firing pin backward from its channel in the slide.
Remove the slide from the frame and verify that you can pull the firing pin (against FP spring pressure) all the way back to the slide cover plate. This will show that the FP is not bent and not stuck in its channel.
Is your G19 new and all-OEM parts?
Has there been any aftermarket customizing like a finish change or cerakoting?
Have you performed any disassembly outside normal field strip?
In short, is there anything different about your G19 than what would be found on a brand-new just out of the box G19?
I removed the slide and the firing pin has full movement to the cover plate. G19 is new and fired only 15 rds. No changes. I installed a 3.5 ghost connector and otherwise it is stock.
I have had gunsmithing experience, watch repair (swiss movements) and 41 yrs military in maintaining weapons.
So what you're saying is the pistol was fine UNTIL you started messing with it, taking it apart and installing aftermarket parts.......The issue is simple, put the OEM parts back into the pistol and you will not have any problems, that is as long as you assembl;e it properly. Just because you watch YouTube videos doesn't mean you know what you're doing.
As others have said your first mistake was thinking it needed and putting in the after market connector. While some will do this correctly and perceive better trigger pull, the reality is an after market part is almost always the explanation for function issues in a glock. My two cents if you learn how to master the stock trigger you will find no need for after market " improvements"
As others have said your first mistake was thinking it needed and putting in the after market connector. While some will do this correctly and perceive better trigger pull, the reality is an after market part is almost always the explanation for function issues in a glock. My two cents if you learn how to master the stock trigger you will find no need for after market " improvements"
Changing a connector to get a lighter, cleaner trigger pull isn't the end of the world. I doubt you'll find very many gamers using out of the box, unworked trigger actions, but they have to work.
I removed the slide and the firing pin has full movement to the cover plate. G19 is new and fired only 15 rds. No changes. I installed a 3.5 ghost connector and otherwise it is stock.
'I failed to mention I installed a 3.5 Ghost connector' would have been a better way to put it. Your way is a little contradicting. Not trying to beat you up; you just need to be up front with everything to get the best response. That aside, if the stock connector works, the Ghost may be defective or you may have installed something, incorrectly, the first attempt. As far as getting beat up over changing a part, I don't really get that. Who knows if this is just a range toy? I've tried 2 Ghost connectors and they worked fine except I didn't find enough of a difference to justify going through the trouble and expense. I chalk it up to 'curiosity met', but I was already up against tailored, OEM minus connectors, so I should have know the Ghost wasn't going to help. I can see where the Ghost would help in a G19 that doesn't come with a minus connector. Everyone likes to hit the bulls eye, on occasion, and a lighter trigger with less wall and no stacking helps with this, but the part has to work and it has to be put in, correctly. If you can rule those two things out, then you should contact Ghost about getting a new connector.
OP I've seen this exact situation before with that same ghost connector, 2 ways I've seen this fixed
1. Put stock connector back in
2. Bend the ghost connector slightly more towards 90 degrees
The reason for this is the ghost connector has a slightly larger angle at the bend and where the slide contacts the connector when cycling it has to "bend" the connector per say and the ghost connector provides too much resistance on the slide cam
No, I haven't been "chased off". My installing a ghost connector was an effort to remedy the stock gritty 7+ lb. trigger pull which is too much for me. My glock 17 breaks at 4.5 lbs after I enstalled a 3.5 connector (without watching a video) I found the problem on my model 19 and fixed it (again without a video) I appreciated feedback , especially Harold 63, ...As for PaLEOjd in Penn. I do watch videos to make sure I'm doing things correctly before I attempt to do it.
I would return it to stock configuration. Glocks do have a break in period like any other gun. My 30 gen 4 had a pretty rough trigger at first but smoothed out after a couple thousand rounds. For break in I fired only FMJ and cleaned and oiled every 100 rounds. Through experience of being a Glock armorer for my dept. for 12 years after market parts often have issues.
That Ghost connector just seems badly designed. They are a good company and will accept returns no questions asked but the G19 connectors just dont fit the trigger bar well even if you do fit it.
Not really sure....I did a complete disassembly of the slide, checked all springs and for whatever reason I suspect the trigger safety pin was not working easily. Anyway after reassembly everything worked. Thanks to all for input and advice...
It should be snapped into the firing pin safety, if it isn't, it can cause lotsa troubles.
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