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Lower Build parts suggestions

4K views 65 replies 24 participants last post by  michael_b 
#1 ·
I want to start a new lower build; as a project to keep me occupied for a few months. I want this build to be something approaching a "premium" lower. Wondering what parts would be on everyone's list - to help me know what's out there.
First, I need a lower, billet or otherwise. What would to buy?
 
#36 ·
Billet aluminum is a block of aluminum that the part is machined from it. You get a higher degree of precision from a billet aluminum than you would from casting. It's also stronger with less metal imperfections.

Forged is shaped when the metal is hot and then finished on a CNC machine like a billet would. The metal is generally stronger when it's forged vs a billet. That's why billet lowers are generally beefier to add strength.
 
#37 ·
Thought I would post an update to the parts I've compiled, or have on order, as I still need to fill in a couple gaps:
Spikes Crusader Lower
Seekins bolt catch & ambi safety
Battle Arms Enhanced mag release / pin set / receiver extension tube
Magpul MOE K2+ grip
ALG Trigger

One item that I've been hung up on recently is the end plate. I've never put much thought into this item. To be honest, I don't know much about different sling attachments. So any opinions on this item would be helpful. Otherwise, I'll just go with one that has a QD attachment.
 
#49 · (Edited)
If I were building an AR right now, I would pick up either a Noveske or Knights Armament stripped lower receiver.
For an entire lower parts kit (minus a trigger), it would be Daniel Defense, Colt, LMT, BCM and a Geissele SSA trigger, and a VLTOR A5 stock kit to complete the lower.

According to most around here, you should not worry about wanting quality because 'a lower is a lower'..............Pay that nonsense no mind and get yourself quality parts.
 
#50 ·
#52 ·
I act
Sure, all nonsense if you wipe your a55 with hundreds...

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_12/3...k_beware__MMS__CMT__LAR__LMT_compared___.html
The info is 10 yrs old but I think there's only a couple more manufacturers of forged lowers since. This doesn't include billet lowers.

I stand by my previous comments. The only parts not to skimp on is the bcg, barrel and the trigger (but you don't NEED a Geissele).
I actually agree with this. Many good parts out there that will be perfectly functional and reliable, but I guess I just wanted to assemble a lower with hand picked parts rather than a standard parts kit. Just something to make it unique and more personal.
 
#51 · (Edited)
Re: QD end plates

My first build used a flat QD end plate, but I've switch to Magpul QD end plates since then. The Magpul version has about a 15° downward angle to it that changes the angle of the QD sling attachment and may also allow it to rotate a bit more. The way I use a sling now, I prefer the QD attachment to the end plate rather than the butt stock. This configuration is proving more useful and comfortable to me in either single or double-point sling use. Of course YMMV.
 
#53 · (Edited)
There's even more good quality stuff that's inexpensive (vs cheap) now than when I built my 2 AR's a few years ago. I didn't buy top tier everything but I did my homework and got at least mil-spec parts. Both were over $1000 in parts w/o optics. Both have been very reliable over the past few years and I can't remember the last malfunction on either at the range.

I recently upgraded my first with a floating handguard and low pro gas block from Matrix Arms. $80 shipped and it came in 3 days. Joebob's has it for $5 more ($65) and if you go over $90, it's free shipping. Throw in a low pro gas block and end plate and you're there. The handguard was getting great reviews from other forums so I thought I'd give it a shot. The finish looks like it's type 2 anodizing and the machining looks really good. Very happy with it.

 
#59 ·
You will be happy with the ALG-ACT trigger for sure. It's a huge improvement over the standard mil-spec gritty, heavy trigger and it's priced right.
Not sure what your main purpose will be for that specific build but you may want to use the supplied Geissele pins that come with that trigger.

Those KNS pins are not made to the same spec as Geissele pins or a standard set of pins. KNS pins are stainless, the Geissele pins are machined from hardened steel and are very smooth. KNS also supplies you with pins that are usually a little under sized and that can cause your trigger to have some side to side play. That slop created by KNS pins can affect the trigger pull due to the slight movement caused by their pins. They also have one hollow pin in the set and it's much weaker than a solid steel pin.
 
#55 ·
Another update:
I went ahead and ordered BCM QD end plate, castle nut, and sopmod gunfighter stock. I decided to keep the end plate simple - just a Qd attachment point, and strong - steel.
I also really like the gunfighter stocks; they're the best fitting stock I've used.
 
#62 ·
I have a Burris MTAC and PEPR mount. The scope is 1-4x and has a lighted reticle but it's etched into the glass so if the battery dies, you can still use it. Burris has a promo now for their AR332 and AR532 fixed maginfication scopes where you get a free Fastfire 3 sight with purchase. I have a Primary Arms red dot on my other AR and was thinking of upgrading to the AR332 and use the FF3 for my glock.
 
#65 ·
I don't but I've been watching a few youtube reviews. It has the same reticle as the MTAC and I like it a lot. I also like that the reticle is etched on the glass like the MTAC so you still have sights if the battery dies. I usually don't turn on the MTAC when I'm outdoors and the reticle is easy to use.

Burris has a lifetime warranty on their scopes and although I haven't used it, I hear they're excellent to deal with. My only concern is the weight compared to my red dot.

Amazon has the AR332 for $255. There's a site called Jet.com that has it for the same but some code to bring it down a few bucks more but I've never heard of them before.
 
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