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Building Help (2)

4K views 100 replies 17 participants last post by  Brass3 
#1 ·
As i mentioned in Building help (1) this is a first time for me, and I truly thank everyone for the replies.
I've got the Building the AR-15 Riffle CD by Bob Dunlap, and Build your own AR-15 by Duncan Long. I've started on tools and so far have the Critical Tool Kit f/Brownell, and their Punch Set, and a Barrel nut wrench that came with MI M lock Gen 3 15" hand guard. I had it put on my MP 15. I see I've got a few more to get (by the video) My question is what is the difference between a enhanced upper and a upper? What should I do, buy a Mfg. Kit, or the parts? Personally I'm thinking parts (like a receiver parts kit,upper parts kit etc.). When I get the few more tools I'm thinking of taking one of my guns down and putting it back together (the S&W, I'm not fooling around with my Rock River) for the experiance. What do you guys think?:nailbiting:
 
#3 ·
I've found it to be cheaper to get a complete upper than to build one to my liking. Problem with me is, I like nice things. So for instance if I were to buy a Vltor upper (175), noveske barrel (300), adjustable gas block (70) bcg (100) decent charging handle (35) gas tube (10) handguards (200) I could just buy say a seekins billet upper for 700
 
#4 ·
It's really not that hard to build an upper from parts. I've built 7 or 8 ARs and swap uppers, barrels and other stuff around quite often. You really don't have to worry about gas systems or barrel nuts (as long as they line up) or head spacing because the AR design is pretty forgiving unless you get into race guns and stuff.

Having said that, it is much easier and probably cheaper to just buy a complete upper in the configuration you want. Once you get into the hobby then you can start swapping stuff around.
 
#5 ·
It's really not that hard to build an upper from parts. I've built 7 or 8 ARs and swap uppers, barrels and other stuff around quite often. You really don't have to worry about gas systems or barrel nuts (as long as they line up) or head spacing because the AR design is pretty forgiving unless you get into race guns and stuff.

Having said that, it is much easier and probably cheaper to just buy a complete upper in the configuration you want. Once you get into the hobby then you can start swapping stuff around.
Thank you all for the great info. I will do as you have suggested and buy a complete upper.Although I am very mechanicly inclined being a licensed A&P mechanic I'll buy one this time. It's the excitement of building in me.:highfive:
 
#6 ·
It's definitely easier to get a complete upper and populate a stripped lower. That way you don't have to worry about torquing the barrel nut while also clocking the gas ports. However, if you're even moderately mechanically inclined building a stripped upper isn't real tough either.
But what is the difference between an enhanced upper and a upper?
 
#17 ·
I have another question and it's: What is an M4-E1 receiver, And what is meant by 16" mid length barrel? How can it be both? Seeing all these different variations of everything is mind blowing. All I want to do is build a M4-mil.spec. to start off with my first time that's all. I am going to buy the complete upper as advised to, but I will get one with the m-lock hand guard because I'll end up buying one anyway. In spare parts I already have a regular 2 piece hand guard f/my S&W, and 2 stock triggers, 1-RR, 1-S&W MP-15.
Thanks a lot to all, and I hope I'm not being a nuisance.
 
#22 ·
From Brownells:

Aero Precision’s M4E1 Enhanced Upper Receiver is a new take on the way the handguard attaches to the upper receiver on AR-15/M16 platforms. The upper receiver is made from forged 7075 T6 aluminum with the handguard mounting platform forged as an integral part of the receiver.
That seems to imply to me that you might be limited in the handguard options.
Thank you, I'll have to stay away from those
 
#23 · (Edited)
I have another question and it is: Are the threads for muzzle devices reversed thread? Also I bought a Comp. from Midway came with no crush washer or anything don't you need that? I know the torque is 11 lbs. max.
 
#25 ·
I don't recall a reverse thread on my muzzle devices; but it's late, so it's possible.

The crush or peel washer helps you get the device in the proper orientation to the barrel (ie clocking it). Some devices wouldn't look or act right if the side ports weren't at 3 and 9 o'clock.
 
#30 ·
Ha. Easy enough to do. Fortunately, thread direction is easy enough to ascertain by a little close looking, or wiggling the device back-and-forth to see which way works.
Thanks for the info. I screwed-up and said Comp.? It's a Muzzle Brake, both are always out of stock every where that's why I bought this one so fast. I've seen peel washer sets (4-5) to a bag, going to get one. Yeah, right hand is the norm here any way. I kept seeing it.

Midway link.....I just went to midway.com, there's a sale there today.
 
#31 ·
I don't recall a reverse thread on my muzzle devices; but it's late, so it's possible.

The crush or peel washer helps you get the device in the proper orientation to the barrel (ie clocking it). Some devices wouldn't look or act right if the side ports weren't at 3 and 9 o'clock.
I've seen the crush washers around in packs, I'm going to buy one maybe two.
 
#35 ·
Hey Mac66..I can't find the post where I said my wife bought me a Bi-pod and an attachment for V.D. and the piece was marked Key-Mod. It must have been packaged wrong...when I looked at the thing today the hold downs (i guess that's what they're called) were M-lock, I have one on my S&W MP, so I tried it on my first build (Key-Mod) and it went on no problem, good and snug, so can now I know you can use M-Lock on both.:exercise::exercise:
 
#40 ·
As far as I know, not an expert, there are only 2 types of buffer tube sizes: Carbine and Rifle. Make sure you get the correct spring to fit. For your application you want a carbine tube and spring. Where I can't help you is what weight buffer to get to reliable run a 7.5" setup.

If I had to guess, a "pistol spring" is just a marketing term for a carbine spring. If you could link the item it would help immensely.

a 7.5 would be a really fun blaster but for an actual reliable rifle, I'd go no shorter than 10.5. I've been parting out stuff for an SBR as well and plan to go 11.5
 
#43 ·
As far as I know, not an expert, there are only 2 types of buffer tube sizes: Carbine and Rifle. Make sure you get the correct spring to fit. For your application you want a carbine tube and spring. Where I can't help you is what weight buffer to get to reliable run a 7.5" setup.

If I had to guess, a "pistol spring" is just a marketing term for a carbine spring. If you could link the item it would help immensely.

a 7.5 would be a really fun blaster but for an actual reliable rifle, I'd go no shorter than 10.5. I've been parting out stuff for an SBR as well and plan to go 11.5
Thanks for the info., This is just a fun gun and can be for home as well. Plus it'll give me some more building experience
 
#54 ·
Brass

You will find many items listed as 5.56/300 Blk such as bolts,BCG,magazines because they are the same save for the barrel and the barrels bore diameter.
Although I would argue not all 5.56 magazines play nice with certain bullets often loaded in 300 Blk rounds,some magazines need modification to best feed 300 Blk. SJ 40
I just called the company and they were surprised also. Saying as you said AR carriers pretty much a standard. I was put on hold for a few...person came back said i'm right. He took a gun and the same as me OD to big. Return for exchange.
 
#57 ·
5.56 and 300 BLK use the exact same bolt and BCG. Exact same. Everything is the same except the barrel. If there's a problem maybe they mislabeled a .308 or other BCG, or perhaps it's just out of spec. The BCG is one of the most important parts of an AR so don't go too cheap. Additionally, if you intend to buy a nickel boron BCG cheaper models are more likely to have the coating flake off. All the more reason to go with a quality brand.
 
#58 ·
Exactly right. I used the BCG from my 5.56 when I completed the 300BO upper build. My dedicated BCG had not yet arrived. Good point on cheap nickle boron. Cheap ones also fail to stake the gas crane. Unless it's going to be a very high round upper, any quality BCG should be fine.
 
#59 ·
As far as I know, not an expert, there are only 2 types of buffer tube sizes: Carbine and Rifle. Make sure you get the correct spring to fit. For your application you want a carbine tube and spring. Where I can't help you is what weight buffer to get to reliable run a 7.5" setup.

If I had to guess, a "pistol spring" is just a marketing term for a carbine spring. If you could link the item it would help immensely.

a 7.5 would be a really fun blaster but for an actual reliable rifle, I'd go no shorter than 10.5. I've been parting out stuff for an SBR as well and plan to go 11.5
There's also the A5 system, which uses a rifle length spring and A5 buffers. A pistol buffer tube is just a carbine tube. Personally I didn't waste money on a pistol tube because it's not required. I just bought a carbine tube and didn't put a stock on it while I waited for my Form 1. On my second one I wrapped the tube with paracord.

There are also springs of varying strength. I use a Sprinco blue and H2 buffer in my 11.5" and it shoots very smooth. I have no idea what a 7.5 would need and wouldn't really recommend a 7.5 in 5.56/.223.
 
#62 ·
Thanks for the help, the bolt I must send it back as it is to big (Dia.). I kept looking and something didn't look right. So I tried it in one of my guns to big. As i'm reading invoice it reads
AR-15 5.56x45mm, Learned that size is wrong, what should I be looking for. See...that's what I get for not checking with you guys.
Crazy, I wonder if they just had some ar-10 stuff mislabeled or if that particular bolt is terribly out of spec! Good luck finding another one.
 
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#73 · (Edited)
Today I sighted in my SBR 7", I put it on my new build lower and put a pair of pop -ups on. Shot 233/65 gr. I WAS REALLY surprised that there was no recoil at all, the front sight never moved at all. See pictures one more coming
View attachment 317070
Picture # 2
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