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How often do you get a failure to eject?

10K views 163 replies 74 participants last post by  naughtymoose 
#1 ·
I get one in about every 40 rounds. I consider this unacceptable! I'm using a gen 4 Glock-29. I have returned the gun to stock parts and still have the problem. Maybe I'm limp wresting it? I don't know. Is anyone else having this problem?

I don't want my weapon to fail me, my life might depend on it!
 
#39 ·
davethehiker, next time you are getting ready for a range trip, try this:

Disassemble your Glock, grab just the barrel (make sure it is clean and dry inside), grab the ammo you want to use at the range, point the barrel straight down at the floor, and drop each single round into the chamber, then turn the barrel over (muzzle up) and let the round slide back out into your hand. Each round should make a metallic "Tink!" noise when it hits bottom in the chamber, and slide right back out when you turn the barrel over. If the round sounds different (no sound [indicates a dented round that may have wedged in the chamber], not a clear "Tink" sound, or makes a different sound) when it hits bottom, or doesn't slide right back out when you turn the barrel over to dump it out, set the round off to one side and don't use it on this trip; only use rounds that drop in all the way, and fall right back out.

When you are ready to reassemble your pistol, make sure it is lightly lubricated in accordance with the Glock manual instructions.

See if "sorting" your ammo before the trip, as described above, makes any difference in the reliability of your pistol.
If it does, you may want to try buying/using some different ammo.
 
#49 ·
davethehiker, next time you are getting ready for a range trip, try this:

Disassemble your Glock, grab just the barrel (make sure it is clean and dry inside), grab the ammo you want to use at the range, point the barrel straight down at the floor, and drop each single round into the chamber, then turn the barrel over (muzzle up) and let the round slide back out into your hand. Each round should make a metallic "Tink!" noise when it hits bottom in the chamber, and slide right back out when you turn the barrel over. If the round sounds different (no sound [indicates a dented round that may have wedged in the chamber], not a clear "Tink" sound, or makes a different sound) when it hits bottom, or doesn't slide right back out when you turn the barrel over to dump it out, set the round off to one side and don't use it on this trip; only use rounds that drop in all the way, and fall right back out.

When you are ready to reassemble your pistol, make sure it is lightly lubricated in accordance with the Glock manual instructions.

See if "sorting" your ammo before the trip, as described above, makes any difference in the reliability of your pistol.
If it does, you may want to try buying/using some different ammo.
I have a match barrel with tighter tolerances; I'll use that to screen the ammo.

Haven't heard of them.

10mm isn't cheap so it's kind of hard to buy different ammo and run a hundred through to check if it's an ammo problem.
TELL ME ABOUT IT!!!!!$$$$$

G29guy06,
I'll make sure my elbows arms are straight elbows and locked the next time I fire. That could well be my problem. I have a feeling that this is a self inflected problem. I think I tend to relax my elbows when I aim. I'll watch for that.

Thanks to all who informed me that you have never experienced this problem. Now I know it's not normal and must take corrective action.
 
#40 ·
I have had 5 failures to eject in 25 years of shooting. All were self inflicted.
 
#42 ·
Probably an ammo issue. Not all guns like all ammo.
 
#44 ·
Heck, my HI Point 9mm has been perfect for over 500 rds.
 
#46 ·
My newest pistol (Glock 34G3) has been going good for the past year and a half no problems. Lost count on the rounds that went through it already.
 
#50 ·
The only trouble I have had has been ammo related.
Unless you want to talk about with my 22cal conversions, and I don't know for sure if it is all ammo or not. Those things are very picky about ammo.
Some old 40cal reloads caused all kinds of trouble.
I don't know how many Glocks I have had. I have bought, sold, and traded so many Glocks, that I don't remember.
I do know that they all functioned perfectly.
 
#53 ·
Of thousands of rounds fired since I began regularly shooting handguns about 3 & 1/2 years ago, I've had maybe 3 or so FTEs...all with 1911s. I've actually had more problems with revolvers than autos.
Of the 6 Glock pistols I've owned, none ever gave me problems. It's a big part of why I am a fan.
 
#55 ·
Interesting. I have a friend who repeatedly tells me about his wonderful moon clips and how much faster and reliable revolvers are than automatics. Ya, ya I know about Jerry Michilic or what ever his name is can do. Show me what YOU can do.
 
#57 ·
good technique and good ammunition will likely conquer all issues.

my G29 and G20 had me stumped until I focused on improving the shooter. what works with my other pistols and calibers isn't consistently good enough for 10mm. the arthritis in my hands doesn't help.

also, there is a reason to use stock parts, including RSA. they are designed to function together. I tried heavier RSA's and they were spotty. if I were going to use monster loads I would use them, but for factory offerings, and reloads within the recommended data, stock is best, IMHO.

my G19 gen4 has an issue with some of my reloads that work very well in my other 9mm's.
what I have found is the pistol is much better with higher charge weights, and slightly slower than mid burn rate powder. still well within data limits.
bunny fart loads would never function in this weapon.
what I was getting was an occasional failure to extract. when the slide moves the required distance, the weapon functions.
all components must work in harmony, shooter technique, pistol and ammunition.
 
#58 · (Edited)
good technique and good ammunition will likely conquer all issues.

my G29 and G20 had me stumped until I focused on improving the shooter. what works with my other pistols and calibers isn't consistently good enough for 10mm. the arthritis in my hands doesn't help.

also, there is a reason to use stock parts, including RSA. they are designed to function together. I tried heavier RSA's and they were spotty. if I were going to use monster loads I would use them, but for factory offerings, and reloads within the recommended data, stock is best, IMHO.

my G19 gen4 has an issue with some of my reloads that work very well in my other 9mm's.
what I have found is the pistol is much better with higher charge weights, and slightly slower than mid burn rate powder. still well within data limits.
bunny fart loads would never function in this weapon.
what I was getting was an occasional failure to extract. when the slide moves the required distance, the weapon functions.
all components must work in harmony, shooter technique, pistol and ammunition.
Bunny farts!!! ROFLMAO!:rofl:

What you describe mirrors my own experience. The hotter rounds seem to work better. I use Underwood "Xtreme Defender" 10mm as CCW rounds. They are advertised at 115 gr 1700 fps. I clocked them at 1631 fps out of my G29 with the stock barrel. However, these hot rounds cost me about $2 each, when you consider shipping. The tip on these things look like a Phillips screw driver and are supposed to be easy for the gun to feed properly, and they are supposed to make a horribly large wound cavity.

My thinking is that if I practice with my Georgia Arms 1100 fps 180gr (bunny farts) and learn how to hold it firmly enough to not get malfunctions, I'll never have a problem with the hotter rounds!

Your feedback was most helpful. Thank you.

Speaking of "arthritis", I have reached an age where if I wake up with a stiff penis, I'm afraid it just means my arthritis is spreading. LOL

EDIT#####
I just made a quick run to my personal firing range. I just fired 16 rounds of "bunny farts" while concentrating on keeping my arms elbows locked and arms straight. I also lowered my head, rolled up my shoulders, and leaned towards the targets. I experienced zero malfunctions. I think it also helped with my speed and accuracy. Those steel gongs were swinging and ringing!

Operator/Shooter error. Limp wresting is a misleading term. My wrists and hands are strong I was holding it plenty firm. I was limp "elbowing" it. I think the problem is solved.
 
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#63 ·
The hotter rounds seem to work better. I use Underwood "Xtreme Defender" 10mm as CCW rounds. They are advertised at 115 gr 1700 fps. I clocked them at 1631 fps out of my G29 with the stock barrel. However, these hot rounds
My thinking is that if I practice with my Georgia Arms 1100 fps 180gr (bunny farts) and learn how to hold it firmly enough to not get malfunctions, I'll never have a problem with the hotter rounds! .
The bunny fart, 180 gr at 1100 fps actually has a little higher PF than the 115 gr at 1700 (only 2, so basically the same when you're already at 196). In essence, that exert the same amount of force on the recoil spring, so both are 'bunny farts'. 180 gr at 1350 or 220 gr at 1200 and you're getting into 'bear farts'.
 
#62 · (Edited)
I have also read that too weak of a spring can cause FTF? I have shot just about about every size 10mm possible. I had a friend hand load me some super powered 10mm ammo. I can feel the difference in my hands as the power goes up. It's not something that I'm unable to handle. When someone tells me that they do not perceive sting when firing any weapon, I suspect it's their testosterone speaking.
Recently I have been concentrating on how to fire rapidly while staying on target. I may be getting sloppy with my arms.
My bad...I relate 'sting' to 'pain'. Training takes testosterone out of the equation, and there are many people, females included, who train, a lot, to shoot better.

If you're trying to rapid fire with the heavier spring, I'm putting my money on your grip before your arms. Your arms cannot move at the speed of the slide when rapid firing, but your grip and wrists can. Loose arms will cause way less failures than loose grip when rapid firing. Reason is, with loose arms, the slide still goes back fairly straight and the slide will bottom long before your arm begins to move, unless you're just pulling your arms into the shot. With a weak grip, the muzzle rises too fast and causes an unnatural force on the slide rails/frame guides mate. It is what helps keep the slide from cycling like it should...not loose arms, and a stiffer recoil spring only exacerbates the issue or 'muzzle rise'. Just remember...stiffer spring to reduce bottoming = stiffer grip so slide will cycle under greater resistance.
 
#64 · (Edited)
The bunny fart, 180 gr at 1100 fps actually has a little higher PF than the 115 gr at 1700 (only 2, so basically the same when you're already at 196). In essence, that exert the same amount of force on the recoil spring, so both are 'bunny farts'. 180 gr at 1350 or 220 gr at 1200 and you're getting into 'bear farts'.
Thanks for your reply. I have also fired two boxes of "Buffalo Bore" 10mm ammo. These were the 180 gr. JHP 1350 fps "Bear Fart" ammo. If I remember correctly these big rounds were the first rounds I tryed firing in my Glock-29 when it was brand new. My experience was horrible! I'm not talking about pain. I'm talking about the functioning of the weapon! Granted this occurred before I had a professional (G29guy06) come to my home and critique my shooting methodology. Back when I was shooting the Buffalo Bore I was strangling the pistol with all my considerable hand and wrist strength. I did not yet understand the importance of locking my elbows. I ended up buying every strength guide rod that the Glock Store sells. I have them all! I tryed them all. NOTHING helped with the Buffalo Bore rounds. Every other round would get jammed! I had a gun smith come to my house to help find the problem. (He is a friend and has loaded my various powers of 10mm ammo) He pointed out to me that the Buffalo Bore ammo exceed the specifications for length. I contacted Buffalo Bore and provided them photos of the rounds within a micrometer showing they were too long. I was told by Buffalo Bore that I was wrong and the micrometer was wrong. They suggested that I buy a revolver. I stopped buying their ammo.

Careful examination of the internals of my weapon revealed that these repeated stove pipes with buffalo bore rounds were damaging the weapon.

Maybe now that I have learned the importance of locking my elbows, I might be able to fire a Buffalo Bore round successfully? I'm not going to risk it. I do not trust their quality control. I have switched to Underwood ammo.

Now that I'm using good ammo and have learned better techniques to control the gun, I'm not having the problems I had in the recent past. Not only that, but now I'm shooting much more accurately and my follow up rounds are much faster because the gun does not move off the target when fired. It took me a while to understand how to do this. A lot of friends had to repeatedly explain it to me before it penetrated the bone and fat in my head.

I only became interested in hand weapons a few years ago and have been coming up a learning curve. Thank you to all my friends on Glocktalk for being so patient with me.
 
#65 ·
I get one in about every 40 rounds. I consider this unacceptable! I'm using a gen 4 Glock-29. I have returned the gun to stock parts and still have the problem. Maybe I'm limp wresting it? I don't know. Is anyone else having this problem?

I don't want my weapon to fail me, my life might depend on it!
Failure to eject?

I think I recall having one in about nineteen and eighty-six, with my first Glock, a G17 with serial prefix of AX, if I recall.
 
#67 ·
I get one in about every 40 rounds. I consider this unacceptable! I'm using a gen 4 Glock-29. I have returned the gun to stock parts and still have the problem. Maybe I'm limp wresting it? I don't know. Is anyone else having this problem?

I don't want my weapon to fail me, my life might depend on it!

It is unacceptable. I thought Glocks are reliable. Now I'm thinking of Sig P229 or P239 instead of G23 Gen4
 
#68 ·
Please understand that since I first posted this (I am the OP) I have have been given instructions on how to properly hold the Glock 29. I learned that I must hold it firmly and lock my elbows. I have not had failure since I changed my stance. I will feel more confident that this will remain true only after I fire about 100 rounds without incident. If you are planing to fire hot ammo from the hip, one handed, with a bent elbow, then the Glock-29 is not the weapon for you.
 
#69 ·
You have to deliver enough power for the gun to run properly. Glocks have big tolerances, so they soak up power. You can use hotter ammo, better grip, better internal parts, or some combination of the three. If you want to know where the line is get some weak ammo and experiment with gripping the gun as gently as possible.

Also, be aware that ammo power can fluctuate with environmental conditions. For example, some powder gets hotter at higher temperatures, and some does the opposite. So if you're using super light ammo for speed steel matches with inverse temperature sensitive powder in winter, you may start getting stovepipes with that same ammo in summer.
 
#70 ·
The first bullet of my G19-4 failed to eject. My son yelled at me to make sure to really push the magazine up in there good. Haven't had an issue since. I have found the only time I have issues it's due to user error - such as not pushing the mag in hard enough or pressing the mag release while I'm shooting. I'm getting better:)
 
#72 ·
Wow, over 30 Glocks is a lot! Is just one of them a G-29? I only three Glocks but have found the G-29 is the most prone to have ejection problems when not held firmly.

Ideally, I'd like a weapon to operate flawlessly regardless of how I hold it. The FN five-seven seems to work that way. The recoil is so low that any sissy can fire them. I don't know if it would be effective on a bear. I know G-29 rocks my steel gongs impressively and is supposedly effective at killing bears and boar! The biggest animal I have killed with my G-29 is a groundhog. I shot four and they did not die immediately, nor were they blow apart. Three of the four were able to get back into their holes to die. Only the one that was shot through the head fell dead two feet from where he was shot; even that took several seconds. I'm learning that regardless of what I have seen in the movies, hand guns are not particularly good killing machines. The advantage of a hand gun is that it can be hidden under ones clothing and comfortably carried.
 
#75 ·
I find that I keep rethinking and changing my mind about about which is the best (or even a good) weapon to carry for self protection. I have practiced, taken lessons, and have became a pretty good shot with my Glock-29. Theoretically I can use the G-29 to protect myself against a charging bear or a human threat. But let's get real...:
I suspect that even a world champion pistol shooter like "Jerry Miculek" might screw up and not hold a weapon ideally if charged by an enraged mother bear or a hostel liberal demeaning his fair share and redistribution of wealth. Would Jerry or I remember to hold the the grip firmly with both hands, roll our shoulders up, tuck our head down, lean forward, thrust the weapon towards the target and lock, our elbows while smoothly pulling the trigger? :tease: What could possibly go wrong!? There is no such thing as a sure safe plan for survival. A weapon that is more forgiving of my mistakes might be a good idea. Just a thought.:juggle:
 
#81 ·
I find that I keep rethinking and changing my mind about about which is the best (or even a good) weapon to carry for self protection...charged by an enraged mother bear...
There have been 18 fatal bear/human encounters in North America since 2000

How many violent assaults by humans on humans has there been since 2000?
 
#76 ·
Wow, over 30 Glocks is a lot! Is just one of them a G-29? I only three Glocks but have found the G-29 is the most prone to have ejection problems when not held firmly.

Ideally, I'd like a weapon to operate flawlessly regardless of how I hold it. The FN five-seven seems to work that way. The recoil is so low that any sissy can fire them. I don't know if it would be effective on a bear. I know G-29 rocks my steel gongs impressively and is supposedly effective at killing bears and boar! The biggest animal I have killed with my G-29 is a groundhog. I shot four and they did not die immediately, nor were they blow apart. Three of the four were able to get back into their holes to die. Only the one that was shot through the head fell dead two feet from where he was shot; even that took several seconds. I'm learning that regardless of what I have seen in the movies, hand guns are not particularly good killing machines. The advantage of a hand gun is that it can be hidden under ones clothing and comfortably carried.
Yes. I currently have all of the 10mm Glocks. Shoot the 29 a lot. Great gun. I am ham fisted though.
 
#77 · (Edited)
Shoot the 29 a lot. Great gun. I am ham fisted though.
"HAM FISTED" That's a great term! To me in invokes an image of a man with big strong meaty hands that secure the weapon firmly, suppressing and absorbing recoil. That is exactly what is needed to assure that one does not experience malfunctions while firing the G29.

I looked the term up on the Internet and found this:
Adj.

1. ham-fisted - lacking physical movement skills, especially with the hands; "a bumbling mechanic"; "a bungling performance"; "ham-handed governmental interference"; "could scarcely empty a scuttle of ashes, so handless was the poor creature"- Mary H. Vorse
bumbling, butterfingered, ham-handed, heavy-handed, handless, bungling, left-handed

I'm sure the above is NOT what you meant.

I found an image that depicts the meaning I think you meant:
Elbow Photograph Joint Chest Trunk


Until I recently received some training from a professional, I was guilty of holding the weapon too delicately.
 
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