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Old 01-10-2009, 11:54   #1
glock20c10mm
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How do you cure fur of coyotes, foxes,...

I'm ok with the skinning part, but after skinning, what needs to be done to cure the fur till you and sell it? I live in Arizona, so it stays relatively warm (50 to 70 degrees F) around here.

I'm assuming the furs would just rot if left laying around? Anything anyone can spell out on this issue would be greatly appreciated! And, anyone know how one would go about locating somewhere to sell the furs?

Thanks,
Craig
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Old 01-11-2009, 20:01   #2
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1st remove all meat and cartilage
2nd hang up on a board using clamps, stretch the hide out as much as you can
3rd salt the heck out of it

keep adding salt until you have a crust of salt. For best prices on fine salt, try your food supply outlets.
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Old 01-11-2009, 20:03   #3
glock20c10mm
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Thanks noway! How long does it have to be left with salt crusted on it?
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Old 01-11-2009, 20:09   #4
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About 1-2weeks. It depends on how much blood and moisture has taken. You just add salt like everyday, shake off the blood soak and keep adding it.

btw
if you have fleas and ticks which is common on yotes, go to the pet's mart and get a can of spray, please pelt with fur side up in a big plastic or paper bag, spray the spray and seal it for about 10-15mins.
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Old 01-14-2009, 20:15   #5
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Thanks noway! Had no idea. Now I just have to see where I can get the salt the cheapest like you talked about in your first post.

Good Shooting,
Craig
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Old 01-15-2009, 19:56   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noway View Post
1st remove all meat and cartilage
2nd hang up on a board using clamps, stretch the hide out as much as you can
3rd salt the heck out of it

keep adding salt until you have a crust of salt. For best prices on fine salt, try your food supply outlets.
+1. Or you can google how to tan using the poor critters' brains
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Old 01-15-2009, 20:58   #7
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+1. Or you can google how to tan using the poor critters' brains
I've seen articles on doing that when trying to google tanning info. Guess the smell is pretty bad.

Craig
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Old 01-15-2009, 21:49   #8
noway
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I've seen articles on doing that when trying to google tanning info. Guess the smell is pretty bad.

Craig
No it's not that bad.


Before the mad cow and other issues, you could go to the market and get abucket of pig brains or cow brains and meshed it all up and tan your own hides. I did this with thin skinned animals ( possum,rabbit, squirrel,etc..)

The outcome was comparable to how much work you put in.

Now adays, you buy a kick and tan it your self,stretch it and smoke and have some hide left over for arts & craft or for sale or barter.

If your really going to do this ,and do it correctly, start on a small animal perferrably a rabbit before you do a yote or deer hide.


At least if you screw up, it's only a rabbit at the end of the day.
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Old 01-16-2009, 10:00   #9
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Salting only preserves the hide until you're ready to tan. It's good for shipping large hides like bear, elk, deer, etc to a tannery. Salted hides won't sell for diddly at a sale though. They need to be put up with drying and stretching.

Skin your coyote/fox/bobcat and dunk it in a bucket of water to get as much dirt and blood off as possible. Hang it up over night to drip dry then stuff it in a 1gal freezer bag and toss in a deep freeze in the morning. Hides left out more than a day or so will slip. Keep piling up fur in the freezer until you have enough to make it worth putting up. If you roll the hides from the tail to the nose, then you can take out the frozen hides and hang them by the tip of the nose and as they unthaw they'll roll out. Freeze then fur side out.

When you're ready to put up fur, pull out as many as you can do in a day or as many as you have stretchers for. Different animals require different sized stretchers. Wire stretchers are cheap and easy, but if there's any rust on them they'll reduce your fur quality. Wooden stretchers are better, but more expensive unless you make your own.

To flesh you'll need a fleshing beam, fleshing knife and a pack of utility razor blades. It's hard to describe the fleshing process in words. In the end you need to get all meat off the hide. Pay special attention to the ears and the cartilage there. Once fleshed sew up any holes. The best thing is to use a gun that doesn't make holes, but there will always be times you need to sew. Upholstery thread or the thread they use to sew jeans are the best. Don't use fishing line or other nylon. Those deteriorate in the tanning process and if a fur buyer sees that they'll deduct plenty.

Then rinse off the hide. A washing machine works good or just a bucket of warm water. Go through several rinsings. I use baby shampoo as it's gentle and makes the fur soft. Then place the hide on the stretcher fur side out. Try to get the hide on as straight as possible. Fur buyers will deduct for crooked hides. Lean all of your stretchers against a wall and point a couple box fans at them. The more airflow the better. They're ready to come off when they crackle like paper. Then you place the hide on a hanger. Brush the hide and fluff it up with an air hose.

Hides put up right like this will keep for a few months without tanning. Then you can wool them off to a fur sale or send them up north to the big NAFA sale. Almost all fur in the US and Canada ends up at NAFA. Local fur buyers are just middle men.

The local sale is usually held in February in Globe, AZ at the annual AZ Trappers Association meet. This year it's postponed because of the economy. Most furs sell to Russia, China and Greece and with the world markets in the crapper the fur market is there too. If it was held you'd break your fur up into lots, buyers mill around and do silent bids on each lot. It takes most of the day, but while you're there you can get your AZ trapping education course in if you don't already have a trapping license.

If you can, find a video called "Hunting and Skinning for Profit" by Blaine Eddy. Blaine is a good guy and put together the best instructional video for this. Also the "Two Minute Coyote" by Roy Finley is good to see how to shuck a hide fast.

For the ATA sale, contact Cindy Seff. Her email is on the ATA website. She'll have the latest news on if/when this year's sale will happen. Right now it's scheduled for March 14th, but that could change.

For a professional tannery Moyle Mink and Tannery is very good. I've used them on various hides from ring tail to mountain lion and black bear. Always good results IF the hides are put up right. You might consider tanning those coyotes yourself. They only averaged $13 at last year's sale, though many were put up terribly. I averaged $21, but that's still not very good. I pulled my lots of coyotes, tanned them and made a couple blankets. Home tanning isn't hard, but a professional garment tan will always be better. Grey fox is going to be down more than most things this year because there is a surplus from last year. Bobcats will still be high, but again everything is down so it won't be like last year.
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Old 01-19-2009, 08:49   #10
glock20c10mm
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Thanks for the great info mpol777! I'll definately check out the videos. I'm only about 3 hours drive from Globe, AZ, so that's cool.

Good Trapping,
Craig
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