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Old 12-07-2013, 12:20   #1
J Lee
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Bench almost complete(Finished!!!)

While not a carpenter, the bench should be functional when finished. Table top is 60" x 27". Will add a 10" deep top shelf and full bottom shelf. Bottom will hold bullet inventory to add some bottom weight. Will have about 2" overhang on front and sides which brings me to my question. I will be using a stong mount under a RL550. How close to the right front edge should it be mounted?

Reloading
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Old 12-07-2013, 13:42   #2
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Nice, sturdy looking bench.

Could be wrong on the Strong Mount, but I don't think you have to worry about overhang.

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Old 12-07-2013, 13:45   #3
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When mounting over to the right, I want to have the output bin over the table top so it doesn't get bumped. It seems to me the rightmost bolt hole should be about 5-1/2" from the right edge. You can see this when you set the assembled press on the table to mark the holes. My strongmounts are about 3/4" behind the front edge of the table because I have a 3/4" oak trim piece on the front edge.

With the strongmount, you don't really need any particular overhang. The entire mechanism will be above the table top. The only reason for overhang in this situation is to keep your knees from hitting any cabinets and it doesn't look like you're going to have any.

I'm using the same strongmount for my Redding T7 Turret Press. It gets the handle high enough to make it less stressful to use. However, the primer drop hose doesn't work out so I just put a Dillon output bin under the strongmounts. The primers fall right in! Not only that, I don't have to empty it in, like, forever!

Richard
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Old 12-07-2013, 16:14   #4
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I am using trim for the top also. I'll wait until I get the trays mounted before I mark holes for the strongmount.
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Old 12-07-2013, 16:34   #5
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What I have found is you want to leave at least 12Ē to 18Ē on both sides of the press. The strong mount you can have it as far back as you want as long as with the handle all the way down does not hit the table top. I would leave at least ĹĒ from the table top and the back side of the handle.
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Old 12-07-2013, 19:12   #6
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One thing you can never have too many of is drawers. Have you thought about adding a couple of 4" deep drawers across the front. There are so many bits and pieces associated with reloading and they all need a place. Dies, caliber conversion kits, case gauges, hand tools, primer flip tray, electronic scale (when not in use), log book ... and the list goes on and on.

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Old 12-07-2013, 20:51   #7
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I donít have a single drawer on my bench. Something that I never thought would be needed. And still donít. But to each his own.
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Old 12-07-2013, 21:28   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F106 Fan View Post
One thing you can never have too many of is drawers. Have you thought about adding a couple of 4" deep drawers across the front. There are so many bits and pieces associated with reloading and they all need a place. Dies, caliber conversion kits, case gauges, hand tools, primer flip tray, electronic scale (when not in use), log book ... and the list goes on and on.

Richard
Yep, drawers are handy - glad I have mine.
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Old 12-08-2013, 04:06   #9
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Originally Posted by F106 Fan View Post
One thing you can never have too many of is drawers. Have you thought about adding a couple of 4" deep drawers across the front. There are so many bits and pieces associated with reloading and they all need a place. Dies, caliber conversion kits, case gauges, hand tools, primer flip tray, electronic scale (when not in use), log book ... and the list goes on and on.

Richard
I have thought about drawers but wanted to leave enough room to get my legs under the bench when I use it for cleaning/minor smithing. A top shelf is where I plan to store misc. like dies. Figure I can add drawer later if wanted.
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Old 12-08-2013, 05:47   #10
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Nice bench
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Old 12-08-2013, 06:16   #11
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Mixed feelings about drawers (not the kind you wear!). While they are nice (none on my primary bench), they also allow those items thrown in them to become somehow lost inside the space of a cubic foot. Shelves seem to work better for me.
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Old 12-08-2013, 07:04   #12
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Nice bench..

Add me to the "not a fan of drawers" list.
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Old 12-08-2013, 07:14   #13
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Mixed feelings about drawers (not the kind you wear!). While they are nice (none on my primary bench), they also allow those items thrown in them to become somehow lost inside the space of a cubic foot. Shelves seem to work better for me.
Also if you add a press and donít us a strong mount in most cases you lose the drawer. I also like to enclose the bottom of the bench. Just so something cannot slip off the bottom shelf in the back and end up in the black hole in outer space.
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Old 12-08-2013, 07:38   #14
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I skip the drawers on my benches too but I do put peg board on the ends to hold bins and tools.

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Old 12-08-2013, 07:44   #15
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The mitered corners and the fact that it is square and plumb makes you a carpenter. A real non-carpenter makes a bench with deck screws and a tree saw.

Don't get all hung up engineering storage on the bench itself. If you have the skills and want to build all kinds of storage into the bench, go for it. If you don't, you can hang old kitchen cabinets, new kitchen cabinets, or low cost garage grade cabinets sold at home depot etc on the walls in your reloading room.

That's what I did. I got two cheap wall cabinets at home depot and hung them on the walls. I like to get my legs under the bench and keep the floor near the press clear. I keep those big plastic containers under the bench for "stuff". They are "modular" in that you can move them around, or pull them all out to get under the bench easily to look for the spring that might take off on you if you need to change a battery on your powder alarm.

Also, if you have a wooden floor, shoot deck screws on a 45* through the bottom of the legs into the floor ("toenail" them in). This will lock the bench down and pull it down though any carpet and padding do it doesn't move around.
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Old 12-08-2013, 15:24   #16
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Originally Posted by WiskyT View Post
The mitered corners and the fact that it is square and plumb makes you a carpenter. A real non-carpenter makes a bench with deck screws and a tree saw.

Don't get all hung up engineering storage on the bench itself. If you have the skills and want to build all kinds of storage into the bench, go for it. If you don't, you can hang old kitchen cabinets, new kitchen cabinets, or low cost garage grade cabinets sold at home depot etc on the walls in your reloading room.

That's what I did. I got two cheap wall cabinets at home depot and hung them on the walls. I like to get my legs under the bench and keep the floor near the press clear. I keep those big plastic containers under the bench for "stuff". They are "modular" in that you can move them around, or pull them all out to get under the bench easily to look for the spring that might take off on you if you need to change a battery on your powder alarm.

Also, if you have a wooden floor, shoot deck screws on a 45* through the bottom of the legs into the floor ("toenail" them in). This will lock the bench down and pull it down though any carpet and padding do it doesn't move around.
Yeah, my friend has some good wood working equipment so the mitering was a plus. I'll post some pics in a couple of weeks when complete with the 550 mounted. I was going for function only but it will be in a spare bedroom turned into more of a hobby room so a little extra is ok. Running the legs through a router to radius the corners was something recommended here to be easy on the knees while sitting.
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Old 12-08-2013, 18:51   #17
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Looks like you did a real nice job on making the bench! It appears to be very solidly built.


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Old 12-08-2013, 21:15   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J Lee View Post
While not a carpenter, the bench should be functional when finished. Table top is 60" x 27". Will add a 10" deep top shelf and full bottom shelf. Bottom will hold bullet inventory to add some bottom weight. Will have about 2" overhang on front and sides which brings me to my question. I will be using a stong mount under a RL550. How close to the right front edge should it be mounted?

Reloading
Wow, very similar to one I built last year..

Reloading
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Old 12-08-2013, 22:22   #19
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I have thought about drawers but wanted to leave enough room to get my legs under the bench when I use it for cleaning/minor smithing. A top shelf is where I plan to store misc. like dies. Figure I can add drawer later if wanted.
I have large cabinets and drawers under my workbench which is currently used for reloading. It is, however, a workbench that runs the entire length of the garage. The problem with cabinets is that the storage is inefficient. Where on shelves do you store a little plastic envelope with decapping pins? Small stuff just doesn't work well with shelves. Sure, bin boxes can help but I would prefer a lot of drawers. I use full extension slides so I can get to the back of the drawers.

I need so much storage for spare parts, repair kits, gunsmithing tools, reloading parts and all that stuff that I'm thinking about buying another roll-away and tool chest. The one I have for my hand tools is overfull.

My workbench has about 6" of overhang so working up against it doesn't leave my knees banging the drawer fronts.

At one time I had a press mounted without a strong mount. It blocked access to one of my large tool drawers. I have since mounted all of my presses on strong mounts. I needed the height.

Richard
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Old 12-09-2013, 06:43   #20
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Small parts? I have two tool boxes for those. One plastic with a tray from WallyWorld holds the Dillon spare parts and my case prep tools; the other a metal three drawer that holds ancillary items for use with my SS. The tool boxes are kept on a shelf under the primary bench and on top of the second reloading station (an old executive oak desk), both within easy reach.


The extra Dillon powder bars that came with the quick change kits are all kept in a cardboard box under the primary bench. They are likely never to be used and don't require an immediate access storage area.
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Old 12-09-2013, 07:21   #21
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With the OPs particular bench, nice construction by the way....

I would think a single full length drawer no deeper than a couple stacked dies boxes would be very useful. You could stacked stuff to the rear of the drawer and have desk drawer organizers in the front for your everyday items as your loading.
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Old 12-09-2013, 11:32   #22
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Really excellent looking bench.

Are you going to prime and/or paint maybe the base and legs, if not the top? I would recommend at least a coat of primer on the base in order to stave off moisture and reduce splinters. Using white primer will help light bounce light around under the bench. This will help a bit while looking for things stored underneath. Painted white, the cement walls of my basement reloading room. It really helped to brighten up the room using the same light sources initially there.
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Old 12-09-2013, 14:12   #23
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Really excellent looking bench.

Are you going to prime and/or paint maybe the base and legs, if not the top? I would recommend at least a coat of primer on the base in order to stave off moisture and reduce splinters. Using white primer will help light bounce light around under the bench. This will help a bit while looking for things stored underneath. Painted white, the cement walls of my basement reloading room. It really helped to brighten up the room using the same light sources initially there.
Sanding and priming tonight. The tabletop will be stained and then finished with a couple coats of polyurethane. Painting the rest with the same color I did my Kitchen and dining room, sorta off-white with a slight yellow tint. It's going in a back bedroom turned hobby room that is painted moss green. Kinda wished I had gone a little longer on the bench but I'm ok with it. Will also be a sometimes fly tying bench. Also will add a power strip underneath and find a decent light or 2. Even thought about a small fluorescent light mounted under the top shelf when I add it but it might take up too much room.
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Old 12-09-2013, 14:14   #24
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Wow, very similar to one I built last year..

Reloading
Nice. Yours is bigger than mine.
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Old 12-09-2013, 14:22   #25
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When mounting over to the right, I want to have the output bin over the table top so it doesn't get bumped. It seems to me the rightmost bolt hole should be about 5-1/2" from the right edge. You can see this when you set the assembled press on the table to mark the holes. My strongmounts are about 3/4" behind the front edge of the table because I have a 3/4" oak trim piece on the front edge.

With the strongmount, you don't really need any particular overhang. The entire mechanism will be above the table top. The only reason for overhang in this situation is to keep your knees from hitting any cabinets and it doesn't look like you're going to have any.

I'm using the same strongmount for my Redding T7 Turret Press. It gets the handle high enough to make it less stressful to use. However, the primer drop hose doesn't work out so I just put a Dillon output bin under the strongmounts. The primers fall right in! Not only that, I don't have to empty it in, like, forever!

Richard
I copied your height recommendation from an earlier thread post. It has 38" tall legs PLUS the top which is 2 ea of 3/4 birch plywood.
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