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Old 06-05-2006, 20:16   #1
Hank Frank
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Glock Trigger Pull...HELP!!!

For the past several months I've read many of the threads on how to improve the trigger pull of a Glock. I've tried them on many Glocks, but always with the same result... 5 lbs. I'm trying to achieve approx. a 3 1/2 lb pull that is crisp, as close to a 1911 as possible. (The guns will be used for competition, and not carry)

I've done the 25 cent polish job, used various connectors from Glock, LWD, and Scherer. I've bent the connector and even made cuts in it. I've raised the hole in the trigger bar for the stock trigger spring. Tried a reduced power striker spring, and cut off the end of the striker at a 45 degee angle where it contacts the "sear".

I don't want to sent my guns off to have them done professionally because of the cost and the shipping charges. Plus, it hurts me not to beable to accomplish what others do routinely.

I hate to give up on these guns and resort back to my 1911's and Sigs. However, after awhile beating your head against the wall, it begins to hurt.

I have attempted to buy one of the 2 lb Triggerkits, but no one ever answers the phone, and if you leave a message, I've never gotten a return call.

Any suggestions? Thanking everyone in advance.
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Old 06-05-2006, 21:59   #2
D. Manley
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Ralph Sotelo (Triggerkit.com) is pretty much a 1-man, web-based show. I would suggest contacting him through email rather than phone.

I can tell you that his kit performed precisely as advertised for me and for purely competition or fun use it's great...it is NOT however, something you would want to have in a defense weapon.

Last edited by D. Manley; 06-06-2006 at 08:44..
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Old 06-06-2006, 02:31   #3
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This is just a thought, but after all you have already done maybe there is something else preventing you from improving the trigger pull. I tend to get a little carried away when I do things, but when I do my triggers on Glocks, here are some other things I also do.
I check surfaces on every piece for burrs and rough spots. I use a small file in the pin hole in the trigger, some have rough spots. I also flat file the sides of the trigger where it contacts the inside of the frame and the area inside the frame where the trigger contacts. My 36 had numerous areas that had imperfections. After doing the .25 trigger job, I started working on these areas and it made quite a difference. I don't know if this is whats causing you problems or not, but it might be worth looking at. Good luck
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Old 06-06-2006, 05:40   #4
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If that's what you want, have you reduced the striker spring power? That's where most of the trigger pull resistance comes from. The 3.5 connector changes the angle that the trigger bar moves to break the shot, but not the weight it has to pull back - only the striker spring does that.

I've shot Glocks with trigger pulls that were probably under 2 lbs., but I recently took all of that stuff out of my Glocks after finding out that it is much easier to shoot well with the 5.5 lb. connector and a completely stock trigger, if you use the right technique, so I'm not going for a light trigger anymore, except maybe in my "open" Glock 22. It has a very light 2-3 lb. trigger due to a 3.5 connector, reduced power striker spring and Glockmeister competition trigger spring - otherwise the internal parts are stock and unpolished.
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Old 06-06-2006, 06:09   #5
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D. Manley: I will try contacting Ralph Soleto via email. If the kit is as he claims, I'll be very happy. I can always up the trigger pull if I feel it's too light.

M338: I will go through and check for burrs and rough spots. I can see this being the case on a couple Glocks, but the possibility of it happening on 10, is remote. There is a common thread (problem) that exists on all these guns to yield a 5 lb pull +/-, after having done all the modifications....I'm overlooking something.

I just thought of something. I presume you messure the trigger pull on a Glock by just putting the RCBS trigger scale hook on the trigger just below its second pin, and pull straight back. Then look at the reading.
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Old 06-06-2006, 06:46   #6
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Bren: I have tried a Wolf reduced power striker spring, and it does help. I would prefer to keep the standard spring, just to insure proper ignition.

Perhaps, I need to go with the stock Glock set-up, and learn the "right technique" as you have done. I'm planning to take a 2 day course in July put on by "TDSA". This is what they teach...I think.
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Old 06-06-2006, 07:08   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hank Frank
Perhaps, I need to go with the stock Glock set-up, and learn the "right technique" as you have done. I'm planning to take a 2 day course in July put on by "TDSA". This is what they teach...I think.
EXACTLY what I'm talking about - DO NOT reduce your trigger pull before that class, or else you will just have to go back to stock to make any decent improvement. I've had TDSA AP1 (twice) and AP2 and that's where I learned that I can shoot the Glock better dead stock than with the light trigger - in fact, my wife had to take the stock 3.5 connector out of her G34 and put in a 5.5 - it's just too hard to find the break point at high speed with a mushy, reduced power connector - if somebody offered a 6.5 with a sharper break I'd buy it right now.
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Old 06-06-2006, 09:27   #8
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Look at the engagement surfaces under magnification. They are rough, the .25 makes them shiny but still rough. Remove the plating and stone the surfaces smooth then polish. Reduce the mass of the firing pin and cut 7 coils off the OEM firing pin spring. My latest trigger job on a G26 is 2lbs and cost $ 13.50, the price of a Scherer connector. All the springs are still OEM. I don't drill a new hole but rather straighten the arm where the trigger spring attaches to a 90* angle.

The 45* cut on the firnig pin is good, but don't forget it is an engagement surface both it and the sear must be smooth.
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Old 06-06-2006, 15:20   #9
Hank Frank
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Duck of Death:
I will look at the surfaces with a loup. Either way, I will stone them, and then repolish. I'm not sure how one should reduce the mass of the striker, but I'll do some research and hopefully I'll see how it's done. I just tried to straighten out the arm where the trigger spring attaches....surprise. This is some tempered metal. (I believe I read one of your posts before and the metal needs to be torched)

Question...Once you remove 7 coils off the factory striker spring, do you stretch it back to its original length?

Well, I'm off to try to make this combination work. If one hears a sudden burst of joy, you know I was successful.
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Old 06-06-2006, 15:35   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bren
if somebody offered a 6.5 with a sharper break I'd buy it right now.
Ever try the 8 lb. connector? (I haven't--and don't plan to, being a fan of the 4.5 lb. "minus" connector, but force/distance graphs I've seen in a Glock buyer's guide indicate the "plus" connector gives a REALLY sharp break!)
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Old 06-06-2006, 15:56   #11
Duck of Death
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I use a cut off disk and a Dremel. Make longitudinal cuts on the fat part of the striker. That's the part near the striker engagement arm and under the plastic sleeve. Reduce the arm where you made the 45* cut by 1/2, it doesn't need to be that thick.

Remember having as light a striker spring is the heart of the trigger job. The only to do this and maintain reliability is to reduce the striker mass.

The bird's head where the trigger bar engages the connector and the connector must be smooth as well as the sear and the striker arm.
I polish everything that rubs, even if it rubs plastic. eg. I take the trigger off the trigger bar polish and dress up the hole. And the drop safety both sides on the left and the bottom of the right.

I carry my Glocks w/handloads using CCI primers. They are 100% reliable.

The problem w/the 25 center is that folks are polishing a rough surface. What they end up with is a shiny rough surface.

Those who use a Q-tip to polish are spitting into the wind.
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Old 06-06-2006, 17:41   #12
Hank Frank
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Duck of Death:

Just returned from the workshop. Did everything you suggested except for reducing the mass of the striker, which I'll try later, having read your last post explaining how to do it.

I wound up with a 3 1/2 lb trigger pull that felt pretty close to my 1911's. I was in heaven...and there was no pre-travel. However, somehow I managed to defeat the trigger safety and the firing pin safety. (The trigger bar is not returning forward far enough) I'll play with it more tonight afer I return from dinner.

I can understand now that what you've said in your last post is the secret to obtaining a good trigger job. Thank you for your input, and to everyone else.
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Old 06-06-2006, 19:29   #13
Bren
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Quote:
Originally posted by gary newport
Ever try the 8 lb. connector? (I haven't--and don't plan to, being a fan of the 4.5 lb. "minus" connector, but force/distance graphs I've seen in a Glock buyer's guide indicate the "plus" connector gives a REALLY sharp break!)
I was thinking about it, just haven't gotten around to doing it yet.
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Old 06-07-2006, 08:06   #14
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If you want to further refine the trigger put a pin in the trigger housing(on the side where the ejector is) and eliminate the pre travel. I use a cut off brass upholstery tack. The pin must be far enough forward so both wings of the drop safety work. Indent the pin slightly so it doesn't rub on the frame. Then reslot the trigger safety where in enters the frame. Now the pre travel is eliminated and all 3 safeties will work. You can look up thru the mag well to verify that the firing pin safety works.
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Old 06-07-2006, 08:21   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bren
If that's what you want, have you reduced the striker spring power? That's where most of the trigger pull resistance comes from. The 3.5 connector changes the angle that the trigger bar moves to break the shot, but not the weight it has to pull back - only the striker spring does that.

I've shot Glocks with trigger pulls that were probably under 2 lbs., but I recently took all of that stuff out of my Glocks after finding out that it is much easier to shoot well with the 5.5 lb. connector and a completely stock trigger, if you use the right technique, so I'm not going for a light trigger anymore, except maybe in my "open" Glock 22. It has a very light 2-3 lb. trigger due to a 3.5 connector, reduced power striker spring and Glockmeister competition trigger spring - otherwise the internal parts are stock and unpolished.

"3.5 connector, reduced power striker spring and Glockmeister competition trigger spring"

I really liked this setup as well, but I found that my trigger saftey would not engage on its own with this setup.

Do all three of your safties work with this setup?
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Old 06-07-2006, 08:34   #16
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Hank,

Where in Missouri are you located? I make it up to Joplin once in awhile and I would be glad to let you try a drop-in trigger if you would like... You seem to understand how the safeties work, but be very careful trying to eliminate the pre-travel, reduced is difficult enough.
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Old 06-07-2006, 09:09   #17
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Enough pre travel must remain for both sides of the drop safety and the firing pin safety to work. Be especially aware of the right side of the drop safety, if the right wing of the cruciform sear is off the plastic, when the trigger is reset, the sear can be moved down and the weapon can fire.
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Old 06-07-2006, 10:00   #18
Hank Frank
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Charlie V.
Thanks for the offer. I'm in the other end of the state, just outside of St. Louis. Duck of Death and others have been very helpful. I feel with all the info they have furnished, I'll come up with a solution.

Duck of Death:
Thanks again for the information, I don't understand the reslotting of the trigger safety??? Could you explain? I do see and understand the rest.

Yesterday, when I bent the trigger spring tab forward, I went past 90" by just a few degrees. I believe this prevented the trigger bar from going forward...it did take out the pre-travel, although neither the trigger safety nor the firing pin safety were operable. Don't think the drop safety was either. Trigger felt great, just like a 1911, and everything else appeared operable. Perhaps this is a new way to overcome pre-travel.

Later today when I get back, I'll rebend the tab a little bit back to 90* (how you instructed)...and see what happens.
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Old 06-07-2006, 12:33   #19
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Go with the Sotelo trigger. Everything else is a waste of time & money.
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Old 06-07-2006, 13:20   #20
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Here's a file I made on how I limit take up:

Eliminating trigger take up(ONLY TO BE DONE TO A RANGE/COMPETITION GUN):

Make sure the Glock is unloaded
1. Remove the slide from the frame.
2. Move the trigger forward so that the right wing of the cruciform sear (facing forward) is slightly on the right hand portion of the drop safety.
4. Drill a tiny hole in the ejector housing in front of the left drop safety arm of the cruciform sear.
5. Counter sink the hole so the slide doesn't rub on the pin.
6. Insert the pin and put the slide on and cock the striker.
7. Pull the trigger safety away from the trigger and mark it where it meets the frame( this is in back of the trigger).
8. Reslot the trigger safety at the mark.

Take up will be minimized and all 3 safeties will work.

I don't go past 90* on the trigger spring arm. If you do use the arm to limit take up don't go so far ahead as to defeat the firing pin and drop safety. Since you're limiting the forward movement of the trigger the back of the trigger safety slot must be deepened so it will clear the frame when the trigger is pulled.

(QUOTE)
10mm4ever
Go with the Sotelo trigger. Everything else is a waste of time & money.
(UNQUOTE)

You seem to have missed what I posted earlier, my Glocks have 2lb no take up triggers with all safeties working and the cost was $13.50. That was the cost of a Scherer connector. I don't call that a waste of $$. As far as time goes how do you put a price on learning how a Glock works and how to work on them?
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Last edited by Duck of Death; 06-07-2006 at 13:49..
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