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Old 11-03-2006, 17:30   #61
kraigster414
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Quote:
Originally posted by DannyR
If macho gun shop man dented you mag, the dent will be on the metal inside and not on the polymer outside. It takes very little strength to squeeze the tube. I'm 60, just getting over a heart attack, and can still do it behind my back in 3 seconds.

The hands in the video are the hands of Randy's wife.
I doubt very much that any damage resulted. Brownells actually sells a tool specifically for this purpose that works basically the the same way, though a bit more precise. I have it, I've used it and it works great - no damage to my mags inside or out. You simply exert just enough pressure on the base of the magazine to allow the base plate to be removed. Finger pressure seems to work fine for most.
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Old 01-06-2007, 01:33   #62
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I just put a pierce grip extension on my new G33, and I had a very tough time. There's nothing to grab on to since the mag is so small, plus being new it's very tight. I really chewed up the retention button on the floor plate. I used an allen wrench. I won't be putting the other extension on tonight. It's a PITA.
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Old 01-06-2007, 06:34   #63
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I think you missed the point here...

Hi Misery,

From your comments, its pretty clear that you didn't use a tool long enough to 'flip' the mag base inside the mag. The allen wrench wasn't either long or stout enough. You can use anything with a shaft on it small enough to fit into the opening... like a number eight nail... or small diameter screwdriver (the point might scratch up the retainer but not hurt anything). A flat blade screwdriver small enough to fit works just fine.

You just push the bottom plate in with the screw driver at least 2 inches or there abouts... angling the screwdriver at about a 30 degree angle to one side of the mag or the other. You need the length so that there is room for the inner base to rotate 90 dgrees to the plate and slip past the screwdriver shaft. When it does, you will hear a click. You then just use your tool, still insterted, to slide the base forward, off the magazine.

Again, your tool was too short. They love to sell you Glock Armorer's tools.. but it is just a small screwdriver with the tip hacksawed off.

Good luck.

Paul
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Old 01-11-2007, 14:06   #64
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Thanks Paul. I'll look around outside for something better to use. The Glock tool is too expensive for what it is. Anyhow, I'll try how you said.
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Old 01-18-2007, 21:09   #65
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Try using a small C-clamp to squeeze the sides of the magazine together, then ideally use a proper-sized pin punch. The bottom plate slides off easily and quickly with the magazine sides held together by the C-clamp. Magazine floorplate removal and replacement in less than a minute. Without the C-clamp (or something equivalent), you have an additional task: to clean the blood off the magazine - don't ask how I know.
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Old 02-06-2007, 14:16   #66
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you can also use a flat head scewdriver 1/8 inch - if picked up one from sears for 3.30 + tax - life time warranty
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Old 03-17-2007, 16:55   #67
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Oops. Think I broke something. I tried the technique in the video, it ain't working. I have a brand new 27 and for the life of me I can't get the plate off. I've tried to press the sides about 20 different ways and still nothing. Now the plate on the inside is sideways and up at the top, not at the side where it's supposed to be. Any advise or is that magazine just garbage now?

Last edited by BoondockSaint54; 03-17-2007 at 17:18..
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Old 03-17-2007, 18:58   #68
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The base should slide right off...

Hi,
If the interior base has flipped up... to the side... maybe even further up inside the magazine alongside the spring... not to worry. What holds the exterior mag base from just slipping forward off the bottom of the magazine is a small "tit" that pokes through the hole in the base, preventing the exterior base from slipping off.

The bottom of the spring holds the interior base down against the exterior base... and the "tit" in the hole. When you push the "tit" through the hole and the interior base flips... whatever tool you are using should be able to just slide the base forward off the magazine... and the spring will pop down and out, bringing the interior base with it. It's just like a jack in the box of old. When you put it back together... the spring goes in... pretty obvious the orientation of top and bottom parallel with slide and mag base... you push down the spring with the interior base... and while holding it down.... slip the exterior mag base over the interior one... and slide it on until it "clicks" and the "tit" pokes through the hole.

You should be "there"... just pull the base off... I doubt if you have broken it.

Good luck, Paul
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Old 03-17-2007, 19:14   #69
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The 'tit' on the magazine insert also keeps the magazine insert in place.

The magazine insert itself is what keeps the sides of the magazine from being compressed and the floor plate 'locked' in place. Once it has been flipped out of the way, the floor plate will come right off.

You guys who are using C clamps, the Brownells tool, etc... are going to damage your magazine tube and/or insert.

This is such an easy thing - some of you are making it way more difficult than it has to be by inventing new ways in which to disassemble.

Randy
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Old 03-17-2007, 19:38   #70
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I'll try it again, I just hope I havn't damages the plate. Thanks again
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Old 06-03-2007, 13:36   #71
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I know this thread is a little old, but it really helped me. I thought I had broken one of my mags, had flipped the insert, but couldn't get the baseplate off. After watching the linked video earlier in the thread, I was able to take the plate off and fix it in under 20 seconds. Not that hard once you see it done. Thank you guys so much!!!!!
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Old 06-21-2007, 16:58   #72
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awesome thread! got my glock 26 2 days ago and couldnt figure out how to get the extenders on. Luckily a nice fellow replied to my post in the accessories thread and i changed mine in about 10 seconds. It amazing how easy it is once you know how to do it. thanks everyone.

-new glock owner
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Old 06-26-2007, 20:56   #73
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ADDING PIERCES EXT G 26

I thought I would chime in on this subject, those that have done this before it is pretty straight forward. MY first time let say it can cause one to nearly have a nervous breakdown. I LEARNED from my first attempt. So I IMPROVISED I HAVE a XCELITE PS120 KIT some may know that this is 8 small nut drivers and a torque handle. I found that the P-3 3/32" was the perfect size insert it( lock tab release ) half the way down
(1") with nut driver on handle & you can bring the base right on off if you are right handed (pull toward front part of mag) with left hand holding magazine left thumb following the base as you slowly move the left hand thumb to hold spring plate in place mag base now removed ( NOTE DO NOT USE ANY TOOLS) put extension on with right hand & slight downward pressure with left thumb floor plate just enough so base will slide over extension continue until rear of extension is on you will notice the front part of extension is now flush with magazine.If you have trouble pushing just use a sturdy flat surface and push on just reverse for left-handed . Hey folks I hope this will help I know others have give their thought so now I have too and I notice a 60 year young person said he could do it behind his back I may have to try that but I am 66 years old.

GOOD LUCK
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Old 07-13-2007, 20:54   #74
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Quote:
Originally posted by RandySmith
Excellent point Pistol, spot on!

'The right tool for the job' has a lot of merit.

What is the shape of the handle on the torx screwdriver? The rounded corners of the armorer's tool are used to center the pins in the frame.

Randy
that is good to know thank's did not know that
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Old 10-11-2007, 19:12   #75
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Old 10-14-2007, 12:11   #76
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You can get the Glock Armorers Tool from www.Glockmeister.com or on ebay or just use a 3/32 punch. I wouldn't use channel locks or a vise to compress the sides or the magazine because you may damage the metal part of the magazine or break something in side it.

I have installed at least five extensions on my G27 magazines with this tool and it is a snap once you get use to it. One of the best investments that I have made along with the front & rear sight installation tool from Glockmeister.

Good luck,
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Old 11-26-2007, 17:40   #77
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Am I missing something regarding the 10 rounders? The inside plate will only push in about 1/8 of an inch before stopping. I finally was able to get the damn thing off but after inspecting it I find that there is absolutely no way that the GAT would insert any farther than the punch I was using. You have very little leverage when you only get the tip of the tool into the mag before it stops.

I haven't tried it on any of the 13 rounders yet but assume that they are built like the mags in the video with an inside plate that can flip up out of the way.

I mashed hands about 2 out of 3 attempts to get the thing apart. Now that I have done it a few times I think I can do it without the bodily injury but there is still no way to take apart the Klinton mags without brute force.

Is this normal with the 10 rounders? I have heard mention of newer baseplates but need to read up on this. Might be that I have older internal plates? Bought the gun in 2000 or so.
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Old 11-29-2007, 14:00   #78
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You just need to use a little more downward force. There have been no changes to the bases or inserts during the last 15 years. All 10-round mags are 1994 or newer.
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Old 12-02-2007, 16:57   #79
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OK, I just got my spring kit in the mail to rebuild my mags. The 10 rounders are built different then the 13 rounders. There is a shelf built into both sides of the magazine body of the 10 rounder in the base that prevents the internal plate from flipping out of the way when trying to disassemble. It is physically impossible to push the internal plates out of the way on both of mine. All of my 13 rounders disassemble just like the video and are a piece of cake to strip and put back together.

The Glock Armourers Tool cannot be pushed more than 1/8 - 1/4 inch into the mag with the 10 rounders. They are a real PITA to take down. You have to get the nib pushed in and either crank really hard on the tool (I recommend you don't do this as it dings up the hole for the nib) or you have to have something really hard to push the back corner of the base plate on to get it over the locking tabs on the mag body.

I don't know if there are any differences between calibers for the 10 rounders or if any 10 rounders were built different to this but the video solution will not work for both of mine. I have two model 32 .357SIG 10 round mags that are both built the same with the shelves built in the bottom of the mag body. I also have one model 32 .357SIG 13 round mag that disassembles exactly like video shows. I have two model 23 .40 S&W 13 round mags that also disassemble exactly like the video shows.

I can post pics if anyone is really that interested. Long story short, the 10 round mags do not come apart as simply as the hi cap mags unless there are different 10 round mag designs that I don't know about. This may also be the reason why a few others are saying their mags won't come apart easily. I don't know if the 26, 27, 33 mags are built with shelves or not.

Last edited by parkinaz; 12-02-2007 at 17:14..
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Old 01-03-2008, 23:45   #80
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Randy,
WHOA! Flashback to my Glock Armorers one day course. GREAT VID. Short, precise and to the point.

To everyone else who are complaining about the price of this armorers tool.

Let me get this correct.

You spent AT LEAST $400 for a used Glock or $500 for a new Glock. And believe me I DO UNDERSTAND that money does not grow on trees. I am retired. So that means I have ZERO money.

At either Glockmeister or LWD the armorer's tool is $10. Ok, lets add 50% ($5) for s&h. So you spend a TOTAL of $15 for a tool that YOU NEED for ease of disassembly/reassembly and you are saying that's too expensive?

I'm sorry, but that makes NO SENSE.

Do you change a flat tire on your car with a hammer? NO.

You get the tire iron (correct tool for the job) to loosen the nuts on the flat tire.

You use a car jack (please tell me YOU DO USE A CAR JACK - again, the CORRECT TOOL) to lift and lower your car while changing the flat off the car. Yeah, yeah, some of you young studs just hold the car up while your spouse/friend changes the tire.

Then you put the nuts back on with the tire iron again. Unless you are anal like I am and check everything with your torque wrench (you COULD ARGUE it's NOT the correct tool, but according to manufacturers specs, it's so many ft/lbs per nut, so I can't say it is or is not the correct tool).

But folks, it's all relative. Compared to what I paid Glock for the one day armorers course (my memory is vague, as it's been 10+ years) or what I paid for the 14 months of my gunsmithing school, that $15 for the CORRECT TOOL pales in comparison.

And just so EVERYONE KNOWS - the GLOCK ARMORERS TOOL that I got at my Glock Armorer's course a little more than 10 years ago measurement is as follows.

OAL is 3.690 inches
Pin Length is 1.390 inches
Pin Diameter is .0975 inches
Handle is .473 x .473 square and is 2.30 inches in length

(3/32 is .0938 inches, so the armorers tool diameter is a little larger than the 3/32 pin punch - BUT a 3/32 pin punch whose pin is at least 1.5 inches in length for that 3/32 punch SHOULD WORK for this particular magazine disassembly routine)

I hope this helps.

And THANK YOU RANDY for making that video.

And IF THOSE ARE YOUR WIFE'S HANDS IN THE VID, send that woman to a spa day dude...
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