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Old 08-06-2014, 14:33   #21
SC Tiger
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Originally Posted by Z71bill View Post
Mine is a 2007 - they left the battery tray in the original location - drivers side corner all the way to the front - easy to get to - but they installed the battery on the passenger side all the way in the back of the engine compartment.

It is wedged in between between some hoses - maybe one from the AC and the coolant reservoir tank. You need to remove a bracket & it looks like you will have just enough space to pull the old battery out without removing the hood.

I don't understand why they left the second battery tray in place - I always figured maybe they were thinking about a diesel option so they would have two batteries.
Which crackhead came up with that? Are you sure that it wasn't done by a previous owner? Did you buy it new?

Is it supposed to have two batteries in some current options? I kind of get putting the battery in a new location, but why put in the original battery tray?
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Old 08-06-2014, 15:03   #22
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Originally Posted by SC Tiger View Post
Which crackhead came up with that? Are you sure that it wasn't done by a previous owner? Did you buy it new?

Is it supposed to have two batteries in some current options? I kind of get putting the battery in a new location, but why put in the original battery tray?
I bought it new - had a Silverado pick up the same body style - its battery was in the other tray.

One one trip to Colorado (from Houston) - I put a battery (from my boat) in the spare tray - it was forecast to be - 20 degrees - so I figured maybe I could jump start myself.

I always thought some GM engineer figured out they could relocate the battery and save $.65 by reducing the length of the battery cable.

But he forgot to take the other tray out - so that cost them an extra $1.95.
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Old 08-06-2014, 15:32   #23
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Bill -

Is this a top or side terminal battery?

Use your Hazzard Fraught Tools voltmeter to measure the voltage AT THE TERMINALS of the battery - the posts themselves, not the clamps on the cables. Hold the leads on the terminals and have someone try to crank the car. If the voltage at the terminals drops way down, the battery is shot. If it stays relatively close to what it is before cranking, then you have a bad connection somewhere in the wiring and the battery may still be good.

It's likely at 4 years old that it's way past its prime and has developed a high internal resistance, which can cause it to read ok unloaded, but drop like a rock when you put a load on it.

Good luck with it.

-Pat
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Old 08-06-2014, 15:36   #24
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This happened to me in my 2011 Mazda Cx-7. I couldn't figure it out until I took the battery out and found out the top was almost fully separated from the battery.
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Old 08-07-2014, 07:02   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubdriver View Post
Bill -

Is this a top or side terminal battery?

Use your Hazzard Fraught Tools voltmeter to measure the voltage AT THE TERMINALS of the battery - the posts themselves, not the clamps on the cables. Hold the leads on the terminals and have someone try to crank the car. If the voltage at the terminals drops way down, the battery is shot. If it stays relatively close to what it is before cranking, then you have a bad connection somewhere in the wiring and the battery may still be good.

It's likely at 4 years old that it's way past its prime and has developed a high internal resistance, which can cause it to read ok unloaded, but drop like a rock when you put a load on it.

Good luck with it.

-Pat
Top terminal -

Since installing the new battery everything seems to check out A OK -- I should know more later this morning - if it doesn't start right up I am sure I will be getting a call from my daughter.

I will be doing some of the tests I learned about on this thread to check the battery / alternator in my Tahoe - GM replaced the battery in May of 2009 under warranty with a so called "7 year battery" - I am over 5 years.

This vehicle is used mostly for vacations & road trips - it will not be leaving for another trip until it has a fresh battery but would like to put it off until then, I always have a portable jump start box thing with me - so I will not be stranded.

Last edited by Z71bill; 08-07-2014 at 07:02..
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Old 08-07-2014, 07:04   #26
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Top terminal -

Since installing the new battery everything seems to check out A OK -- I should know more later this morning - if it doesn't start right up I am sure i will be getting a call from my daughter.

I will be doing some of the tests I learned about on this thread to check the battery / alternator in my Tahoe - GM replaced the battery in May of 2009 under warranty with a so called "7 year battery" - I am over 5 years.

This vehicle is used mostly for vacations & road trips - it will not be leaving for another trip until it has a fresh battery but would like to put it off until then, I always have a portable jump start box thing with me - so I will not be stranded.
Did GM change back to top terminal batteries? For years they used the side terminal ones. People often did not like it but I honestly always felt like it gave a slightly better connection.

BTW - GM Batteries (Delco) suck out loud, at least the last time I used them. I just get Auto Zone batteries now anyway.
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Old 08-07-2014, 07:53   #27
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Did GM change back to top terminal batteries? For years they used the side terminal ones. People often did not like it but I honestly always felt like it gave a slightly better connection.

BTW - GM Batteries (Delco) suck out loud, at least the last time I used them. I just get Auto Zone batteries now anyway.
The GM truck I bought in 1998 had top terminals -

I had a few with side terminals - they always leaked acid out of the terminal.

AC Delco batteries do suck - the first one lasted less than a year - the second one was not much better - by 2009 I was on my third battery.

But I have to admit - this one has lasted over 5 years.

I recall when I took the truck in to have the battery replaced (under warranty still)

They said that the battery was still good - it just tested as "needed to be charged" - so it could not be replaced under warranty.

Took it home and put it on the charger all night - went back the next day -

Tested as - needs to be charged but still good.

So I ask the service guy - should you be able to start the engine 3 times in a row without having the battery go dead?

He said YES of COURSE you can.

So I said - start it 3 times in a row and I will leave go to Sam's and buy a new battery - but if it can't start 3 times you put in a new battery.

Started up the first time no problem -
second start it was struggling
third time - click click click

Then they didn't have the correct battery on hand - so they used this 7 year battery - original equipment was 5 year -

When I went in to pick up the truck they tell me I need to pay THE DIFFERENCE in cost between the two batteries.

I owed them $100 something $ -- this was not the cost of the battery - but the difference in cost between a 5 year and a 7 year battery.

I laughed in the guys face - I could buy a new Interstate battery from Sam's for around $100 (this was 2009).

I gave them a choice - take the battery out I would go buy one from Sam's or give me the keys and let me leave - no charge.

I wish Sam's still sold Interstate batteries - I always had good luck with them.
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Old 08-07-2014, 08:46   #28
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Just some simple checks I would suggest to further check out your vehicle...

Measure the resistance from your - battery post to the engine, a clean spot on the frame, all of these should measure 0 ohms, you can do this with your volt meter simply select the omega symbol on your meter. this will tell you not only the condition of your ground but the wiring and connections.

Also while you are learning check the resistance of your power leads, alternator, starter anything you can get to but start with the larger primary cables.

All of these should be zero ohms, if you find more then you need to solve the problem. In my experience people always forget about certain items they find unimportant, when you are talking about resistance in an electrical system resistance adds up and so while one problem may be fine multiple problems can lead to a much bigger issue that can disguise itself.

To many times people simply try to solve the big issue and do not solve the smaller issues not realizing that the bigger issue is more likely several small issues creating a larger problem.

When diagnosing electrical issues I always suggest checking to the battery post, check the entire system, if you find a problem then narrow it down by sections, but the first check is always the mains, main power and main ground.
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Old 08-07-2014, 08:49   #29
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The GM truck I bought in 1998 had top terminals -
Wierd - my 2000 has side terminals. Most batteries have both posts and side terminal threads, but the connections on the truck are for a side terminal.

I think. Probably should go look.
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Last edited by SC Tiger; 08-07-2014 at 08:58..
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Old 08-07-2014, 08:53   #30
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Sounds exactly like a battery with a dead cell. It will test fine at autozone, you can slap it on a charger, and it still won't start the car. Had it happen to me before, fortunately it was less than two years old and still under warranty, so autozone gave me a new one for free.

Took it to autozone because the car wouldn't start, they tested it, it tested fine, I told them again it wouldn't start the car. They slapped it on the charger for an hour, maybe two, took it home, still wouldn't start the car. Took it back to Autozone, they said it still tested fine, told them it still didn't start the car. Took it to O'reilly's, they tested it, said it was okay, I said it wouldn't start the car and Autozone had charged it for a while, and O'reilly's said it must have a dead cell, and said they'd seen it several times, where it tests okay, but it won't hold a charge. Took it back to Autozone, told them I'd taken it to O'reillys and they said it was most likely a dead cell, and Autozone gave me another one under warranty.
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Old 08-07-2014, 10:50   #31
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Originally Posted by Z71bill View Post
I bought it new - had a Silverado pick up the same body style - its battery was in the other tray.

One one trip to Colorado (from Houston) - I put a battery (from my boat) in the spare tray - it was forecast to be - 20 degrees - so I figured maybe I could jump start myself.

I always thought some GM engineer figured out they could relocate the battery and save $.65 by reducing the length of the battery cable.

But he forgot to take the other tray out - so that cost them an extra $1.95.
They call that the "GM nod".
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Old 08-07-2014, 12:29   #32
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Wierd - my 2000 has side terminals. Most batteries have both posts and side terminal threads, but the connections on the truck are for a side terminal.

I think. Probably should go look.
Maybe your right - now that you mention it - I do recall seeing batteries with both side and top terminals -

It could have had one of those.

I like the top terminals only better - that little 7MM bolt head on the side terminals always seemed to deform. Like it was made out of lead or something.
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Old 08-08-2014, 09:31   #33
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plates are sulfated, new battery time
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