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Old 08-26-2013, 10:55   #1
G29SFWTF
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G29 Fail to Fire

I'm having a problem with my G29 where just about every round fails to fire. Today at the range I saw what was happening, the slide is not going in to battery by a fraction of an inch. You can't tell by looking but if you push on the slide you can move that last little bit. Whenever I manually tap the slide before firing, it fires every time.

I usually shoot a KKM standard length but went back to stock to see if the match chamber was causing it but still had the same result.

I have a +2 mag but still happens with the stock mag.

Underwood ammo 180gr TMJ
Wolff 21# RSA
Stock firing pin spring
Gen 3

The gun was super clean from a detail strip I did before shooting. I cannot understand why the slide is not going all the way, especially with a 21# spring. I don't have the original RSA to try. My best guess is order a stock RSA to see if something is screwy with the Wolff.

Here's what the fails look like:

The 10 Ring

I really want my gun back, right now it's useless. Did I miss something?

Last edited by G29SFWTF; 08-26-2013 at 11:03..
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:50   #2
vaquero aleman
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Did you try a different brand of ammo? The reason I ask is because I have 3/4 of a box of Underwood 135 grain 40 S&W unfired due to no primer ignition. I tried shooting them out of a Sig 250C and my G29 and both guns had trouble with not igniting the primer. I am not bad mouthing Underwood, I think their ammo is great. But FWIW, this was my experience.
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Last edited by vaquero aleman; 08-26-2013 at 11:56..
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Old 08-26-2013, 12:19   #3
G29SFWTF
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Actually I shot a bunch of .40 cal which mostly worked but still had the issue a few times. But that is a shorter round and easier to get into battery. Tried some PMC and had the same issue.

The reason I thought it was the gun is I always get a fire when I tap the slide home manually. Also the primer mark is not as deep as a fired round.

If you have that many Underwoods that failed in two guns then I bet Kevin would want to hear about it.
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Old 08-26-2013, 12:21   #4
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Detail Strip

Quote:
Originally Posted by G29SFWTF View Post
I'm having a problem with my G29 where just about every round fails to fire. Today at the range I saw what was happening, the slide is not going in to battery by a fraction of an inch. You can't tell by looking but if you push on the slide you can move that last little bit. Whenever I manually tap the slide before firing, it fires every time.

I usually shoot a KKM standard length but went back to stock to see if the match chamber was causing it but still had the same result.

I have a +2 mag but still happens with the stock mag.

Underwood ammo 180gr TMJ
Wolff 21# RSA
Stock firing pin spring
Gen 3

The gun was super clean from a detail strip I did before shooting. I cannot understand why the slide is not going all the way, especially with a 21# spring. I don't have the original RSA to try. My best guess is order a stock RSA to see if something is screwy with the Wolff.

Here's what the fails look like:

The 10 Ring

I really want my gun back, right now it's useless. Did I miss something?
During this detail strip did everything go back together the way it was supposed to?

Regards, GMB
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Old 08-26-2013, 12:26   #5
G29SFWTF
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Yep, I mean I'm not a gunsmith but I've cleaned my two Glocks many times. Everything was assembled right.
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Old 08-26-2013, 13:17   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G29SFWTF View Post
Yep, I mean I'm not a gunsmith but I've cleaned my two Glocks many times. Everything was assembled right.
The Striker Plunger safety may be hanging it up...

Also I have seen where a tiny build up on the end of the chamber cut in the barrel, (in my case cast bullet left a small bit of lead) the soft hit to the primer was noticed. A quick clearing of this fowling fixed the issue. (Use the tip of a triangle file to carefully dislodge the piece of lead). Seating my bullets slightly deeper now.
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Old 08-26-2013, 15:15   #7
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Shadow thanks for the feedback. This happens with a squeaky clean KKM barrel and a squeaky clean stock barrel. I mean the first round of the day and the 2nd and 3rd. Also before shooting I took my time cleaning out the slide including the striker safety cavity.

I just now put my 23lb spring in on the Wolff rod and it locks up tight every time when manually cycling the rounds through. I didn't have this spring with me at the range. The 21# hangs up just short of full battery every time when manually cycling. Seems there is a problem with the 21#. It's not that old though. Maybe 400 rounds.

It should not require 23 pounds of force to lock up though. The stock strength is 17 pounds. I have a stock RSA on order and will try that.
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Old 08-26-2013, 16:19   #8
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Hope you get it worked out.
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Old 08-26-2013, 16:48   #9
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My G20 came out of the box - brand new - with an improperly made (or possible just bent) trigger bar that was pressing upward against the bottom of the slide so hard that the slide simply could not move freely. I also had the same problem with the slide not going all the way into battery. Look for a mark on the bottom of your slide indicating the trigger bar is rubbing. It should never rub at all. It's supposed to push upward on the safety plunger, but not press on the bottom of the slide in front of or behind the plunger. If this is your problem, swapping barrels will have no effect on the slide movement since the barrel isn't part of the problem.

Last edited by Brian Lee; 08-26-2013 at 16:50..
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Old 08-26-2013, 17:46   #10
G29SFWTF
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I just took a look at the slide just before and after the striker safety. There's maybe a faint mark. My slide is NIBX coated so maybe it wears differently than tennifer.

I put a dab of some weapon grease (some that's thick and would not run) on the tip of the trigger bar where it pushes on the plunger and cycled the slide and trigger a few times. The only place where grease showed up on the slide assembly is on the plunger. Thanks for that info though I will keep it in mind. Sucks that a new G20 would be bent.
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Old 08-27-2013, 21:45   #11
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make sure the firing pin safety spring is centered and free. Sometimes they get cock-eyed and stuck. (under the silver plunger). Happened to me once.
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:01   #12
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I have a memory flag of Gen3 Glock 30's & 29's having this issue a couple of years ago.

It turned out it was the trigger bar - the piece the pushes up on the safety plunger rubs the frame, and causes enough drag to stop the gun from going into battery.

One guy I know had this with a G30 SF, and Glock sent him a new trigger bar for a G21 (smooth trigger) that worked better. You could also polish the trigger bar on the bend (you'll see where it is touching, it will be shiny).

Hope this helps,
Bob S.
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:27   #13
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Those primer strikes look good. Did you try recycling them and firing them a second time?
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:15   #14
G29SFWTF
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When I try to fire these again they do go bang every time. But I also will get a fire each time when I manually nudge the slide home after every shot.

It may be that the trigger bar is rubbing on the slide but I checked that out with a dab of grease on the tab that pushes the plunger and I only saw grease on the plunger after several cycles of the slide and trigger.

I have a stock RSA coming this week and will try that this weekend. If not then will try a different trigger. Thanks for the inputs.
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Old 08-28-2013, 12:04   #15
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It's not the top of the trigger bar where the drag occurs, it's on the angled area. Look here for picks...

http://glock.pro/glock-tech-warranty...not-happy.html

In these pictures, it looks dark, but it's actually shiny.

Hope this helps,
Bob S.
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Old 08-28-2013, 14:58   #16
G29SFWTF
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Ok thanks. I guess I had the wrong idea about where it might be rubbing. I do have a gouge on my trigger bar.

The 10 Ring

The 10 Ring


However my slide is NIBX coated so a shiny edge is not going to show up like it would through a tennifer slide:


The 10 Ring

I read in that link that Glock says some rubbing is normal. Not sure if mine is the normal amount. My trigger bar number does have a -1 which according to that thread is the improved version. I might have to call Glock.

I did get a 23lb spring very soon after buying this gun used, so maybe the strong RSA was masking the issue.
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Old 08-28-2013, 16:01   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G29SFWTF View Post
Ok thanks. I guess I had the wrong idea about where it might be rubbing. I do have a gouge on my trigger bar.

The 10 Ring

The 10 Ring


However my slide is NIBX coated so a shiny edge is not going to show up like it would through a tennifer slide:


The 10 Ring

I read in that link that Glock says some rubbing is normal. Not sure if mine is the normal amount. My trigger bar number does have a -1 which according to that thread is the improved version. I might have to call Glock.

I did get a 23lb spring very soon after buying this gun used, so maybe the strong RSA was masking the issue.
Looks like the front of your trigger bar is definitely smacking into something. I'm not a glock guru, especially since I don't own a 29, but is there a chance it could be running into the barrel lug?
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Old 08-28-2013, 21:10   #18
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This is a good thread. Will be helpful far all of us.
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Old 08-29-2013, 12:50   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Messer View Post
It's not the top of the trigger bar where the drag occurs, it's on the angled area.......
Actually it can be either area where the rubbing might occur. On my own G20 the angled area and the side were pretty close to rubbing, but were not. It was entirely on the top point of the bar pressing really hard against the bottom of the slide and leaving a very obvious mark on the slide.

A faulty trigger bar can be bent in a number of different ways. But you're right, I forgot to mention that it can rub in other places because mine didn't - only on top. To me it looks like if a trigger bar has a protrusion that's too fat, it can get wedged between the frame and the safety plunger and still cause friction even if it's not rubbing on top like mine was.
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Old 08-30-2013, 16:17   #20
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I will have to check my trigger bar now on mine and see if there is a reason I've had some failures.

ETA - I'm looking at mine now. I definitely have a gouge on mine, but I don't see a number on it. Do I have to take it out to see the number? The back number is 4256-1

Is that the correct one?

Last edited by Tech knight; 08-30-2013 at 16:21..
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