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Old 05-12-2013, 14:39   #1
LonestarTx
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Glock smith help?

Did the 25 cent trigger polish job on my Glock 23. Now the trigger won't cock. Not sure what I did wrong. It all looks put back together correct.???
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Old 05-12-2013, 15:40   #2
LonestarTx
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Problem went away when I put the trigger connector from one of my other glocks in it. Must have overdone the polishing. Will order a 3.5lb ghost connector and see if it will work.
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Old 05-14-2013, 03:54   #3
GlocksterJeff
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Lots of 1st timers go too far with their polishing. Please check your other polished parts as well. Once you remove all the hard chrome plating down to the copper undercoat, the part is pretty much ruined.

There will be other opinions, but I have found quality control of Ghost connectors to be very hit or miss. I recommend sticking with Glock factory connectors - they always work. F.Y.I. - I have both professionally polished and unpolished (stock) Glock factory minus connectors in stock. Email me if you are interested.

Last edited by GlocksterJeff; 05-14-2013 at 03:55.. Reason: spelling
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Old 05-14-2013, 04:44   #4
Arc Angel
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You didn't overpolish. Your problem is with the lower, 'L-shaped' angle at the bottom of your present connector. You, probably, bent it open too much when you removed it from the THU (trigger housing unit). Pull the THU and connector from the gun. Turn the connector around and install it backwards into the THU and, then, bend it inward EVER SO SLIGHTLY. Your, 'problem' should go away. It ain't, 'quality control' at Ghost that's off; it's, 'user competence' at the other end of the transaction.

Last edited by Arc Angel; 05-14-2013 at 04:45..
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Old 05-15-2013, 00:58   #5
GlocksterJeff
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That's a very good suggestion Arc Angel. Compare the 'bad' connector's angle with the other working connector. Also check to see if the face of the connector is bent in the middle - it should be flat.

Newer trigger housings have a round hole in the slot where the connector's tab is inserted. You can use this hole to push the connector out from the back side with your armorer's tool (or other 5/32" pin punch). Never just pry the connector out of the housing.
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Old 05-16-2013, 06:45   #6
Arc Angel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlocksterJeff View Post
That's a very good suggestion Arc Angel. Compare the 'bad' connector's angle with the other working connector. Also check to see if the face of the connector is bent in the middle - it should be flat.

Newer trigger housings have a round hole in the slot where the connector's tab is inserted. You can use this hole to push the connector out from the back side with your armorer's tool (or other 5/32" pin punch). Never just pry the connector out of the housing.
Bingo!

(The most likely source of this problem - Nice going!)
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Old 05-21-2013, 01:17   #7
RimShot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlocksterJeff View Post
...Once you remove all the hard chrome plating down to the copper undercoat, the part is pretty much ruined.
Odd, I did a full strip/clean/polish of my G17 & G20 after 1,000 rounds and noticed that copper undercoat showing quite a few parts.

I would always run the edge of my nail over any worn parts while polishing. If I can't feel a difference where I see a difference, I figure I'm good to go.

Stuff that had the copper undercoat showing;
  • three sides of the striker bar's knotch that rides the slide
  • all four sides of the striker bar near the firing pin
  • striker safety

Also saw what could be called 'undercoat' on;
  • trigger-bar (where it...contacted...the connector)
  • trigger-bar's cam that contacts the striker safety
  • connector
  • ejector 'pushrod' face

Still going on pretty strong after an add'l 250 rounds in each.

Last edited by RimShot; 05-21-2013 at 01:20.. Reason: reworded so I wouldn't look like a know-it-all ass
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Old 05-21-2013, 20:30   #8
cciman
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trigger will not reset. I think it is the other way around, the upper portion of the connector is too flush with the THU-- bent too much inward as you were putting it back in. It needs to be outward bent slightly towards the frame.

It needs more outward angle away from the surface of the THU to reset the trigger, also give harder click to the trigger reset sensation.

for the future reference: To properly insert the connector, press at the apex of the angle until completely inserted, so as to not bend in the upper portion of the connector. In removing, I use a small flatblade to pry gently at the inner apex to avoid affecting the angle too, as suggested previously.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Arc Angel View Post
You didn't overpolish. Your problem is with the lower, 'L-shaped' angle at the bottom of your present connector. You, probably, bent it open too much when you removed it from the THU (trigger housing unit). Pull the THU and connector from the gun. Turn the connector around and install it backwards into the THU and, then, bend it inward EVER SO SLIGHTLY. Your, 'problem' should go away. It ain't, 'quality control' at Ghost that's off; it's, 'user competence' at the other end of the transaction.

Last edited by cciman; 05-21-2013 at 20:35..
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Old 05-22-2013, 13:09   #9
punkglock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LonestarTx View Post
Did the 25 cent trigger polish job on my Glock 23. Now the trigger won't cock. Not sure what I did wrong. It all looks put back together correct.???
If you just did the metal polish + q-tip method (no sanding or dremels), then it shouldn't be an issue with removing too much material. You can't do that with metal polish alone.

However, if you bent the connector at all (and there are some videos on you-tube that actually suggest doing this!), or try to "straighten" it -- you will quite possibly have this exact problem.

I suggest taking the gun back apart and carefully comparing the shape to another working connector. Don't bend it at all (it should not be a perfect right angle, or fit too closely against the housing), just polish! When removing the connector on newer glocks, you should use a punch or glock tool to push it out via the small hole on the back of the housing, then put it back together carefully as suggested above (no prying or pushing too hard).

For those who get into this situation, this can help:

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Last edited by punkglock; 05-22-2013 at 13:11..
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Old 05-26-2013, 19:41   #10
GlocksterJeff
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The hard chrome outer coating on Glock trigger parts has a natural lubricity and the physical 'hardness' of the metal adds to the smoothness with which the parts slide on each other when they are polished. The flash [thin] copper undercoat on the other hand is a very soft metal. It is applied to the bare steel only to aid the adhesion of the chrome plate. If you keep a good coating of grease or oil on the parts they may still slide against each other, but not as well as if the copper was not exposed.

I've polished a lot of trigger parts. Some come from the factory with a rougher surface than others. So, sometimes I get tempted to remove a bit too much chrome trying for a mirror surface. Once I see copper though, that's it for the part - it gets immediately chucked in the bin.
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Old 06-04-2013, 22:21   #11
RimShot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlocksterJeff View Post
Once I see copper though, that's it for the part - it gets immediately chucked in the bin.
Hey there, if you happen to chuck any of these parts for a G17 or G20, can you send them my way? :P

I have a few ideas I'd like to try-out, but don't want to buy "new" components just to ruin them...

Posted from my shoe-phone
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