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Old 04-20-2013, 14:42   #1
OneAverageWhiteGuy
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Trigger Pull

On my G19 I can feel three distinct "stages" while pulling the trigger. The first takes up most of the slack in the trigger pull and has light tension. The second begins when the tension noticeably increases and is very short compared to the first. Finally it reaches the point where any additional pressure releases the firing pin.

My question is this: When practicing, do you go through the full motion (all of the "stages") of the trigger on the first pull, or do you take up that initial slack and hold it while you aim in on your target?

I usually do the latter, but I'm beginning to think the pressure I exert while holding the trigger in that position is causing me to add movement making some of my shots to go off target, so I'm curious what everyone else does.

Last edited by OneAverageWhiteGuy; 04-20-2013 at 14:43..
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Old 04-20-2013, 15:00   #2
packeagle
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I generally aim and do the full pull on the first shot, then shoot from reset on followup shots.

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Old 04-20-2013, 15:51   #3
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The Glock utilizes a two stage trigger. For aimed range target work, I position to the second stage and then press increasingly to the break. For drills on the range, such as draw and fire and flipping targets, I pull through both stages except for multiple shots where I just ease up to reset and then pull through the second stage.
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Old 04-20-2013, 22:31   #4
PEC-Memphis
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Take up slack while extending to the target, by the time the sights are on target all of the slack is taken up, ie prepping the trigger. Follow up shots are from reset.
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Old 04-20-2013, 22:43   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneAverageWhiteGuy View Post
... I'm beginning to think the pressure I exert while holding the trigger in that position is causing me to add movement making some of my shots to go off target,...
You need to get some snap-caps for practice, focus on the sights instead of the target when doing this. You can (of coarse) dry fire a Glock, just not to any great extent. (opinions vary)

Here's a good thread to read for training at home.
http://www.glocktalk.com/forums/show...ight=snap+caps

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Old 04-20-2013, 22:50   #6
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<<< This one has been dry fired probably 10,000 times with about another 10,000 rounds of live fire. IDPA SSP competition gun for about 4-5 years.

No problems what so ever. Stock except for sights and grip tape on left side of grip. That's about a .18-.19 split, 0 down, in the picture.

Eta: oops, forgot about the 13# recoil spring.
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Old 04-20-2013, 22:58   #7
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Take up slack while extending to the target, by the time the sights are on target all of the slack is taken up, ie prepping the trigger. Follow up shots are from reset.
I do this as well. In other words, treat it like a SA trigger with a long take-up. To enhance this feeling, I use the stock connector (essential for a crisp break) together with a lightened safety block spring and an extra power trigger spring. The net effect is that the "break" is about the same, but the first stage pull (take-up) is noticeably lighter. It adds a bit of control -- makes it easier to take up the first stage without accidentally pulling all the way through.
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Old 04-20-2013, 23:05   #8
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Originally Posted by Chronos View Post
I do this as well. In other words, treat it like a SA trigger with a long take-up. To enhance this feeling, I use the stock connector (essential for a crisp break) together with a lightened safety block spring and an extra power trigger spring. The net effect is that the "break" is about the same, but the first stage pull (take-up) is noticeably lighter. It adds a bit of control -- makes it easier to take up the first stage without accidentally pulling all the way through.
I should add, finger is NOT inside the trigger guard until the muzzle is pointed completely down range, ie rotated to level position, and (arms) nearly fully extended. Don't shoot yourself trying to prep the trigger too soon. I know some one who has a SIGSW trying to get their finger on the trigger too soon.
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Old 04-21-2013, 02:40   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneAverageWhiteGuy View Post
On my G19 I can feel three distinct "stages" while pulling the trigger. The first takes up most of the slack in the trigger pull and has light tension. The second begins when the tension noticeably increases and is very short compared to the first. Finally it reaches the point where any additional pressure releases the firing pin.

My question is this: When practicing, do you go through the full motion (all of the "stages") of the trigger on the first pull, or do you take up that initial slack and hold it while you aim in on your target?

I usually do the latter, but I'm beginning to think the pressure I exert while holding the trigger in that position is causing me to add movement making some of my shots to go off target, so I'm curious what everyone else does.
There are no, 'three distinct stages' to a Glock trigger. There's only the initial front end, 'slack' or, 'take up' and the actual trigger break, itself.

You're having a problem because you're, 'squeezing' the trigger rather than simply, 'pressing it through'. The process is simple: You (1) take up the front end slack, (2) pause and verify your front sight picture, and (3) 'press through' the shot.

As far as, 'When' to put your trigger finger inside the trigger guard? On a fast draw my own trigger finger begins to enter the guard just as the muzzle passes the, 'low ready' position. (Never before!) By the time the muzzle is level, the front end slack is already out of the trigger; and I'm ready to fire as the front sight comes to bare.

A Glock isn't a target pistol. Don't squeeze the trigger. 'Press it', instead. The trick is to maintain a consistent grip on the pistol and maintain constant control over the backstrap. If you control a pistol's backstrap then you control the entire pistol, too.
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Old 04-21-2013, 06:52   #10
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Related thread:

Paul Howe- "full reset"?
http://pistol-forum.com/showthread.php?5595-Paul-Howe-quot-full-reset-quot
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Old 04-21-2013, 21:00   #11
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Practicing a slow trigger sqeeze, you tend hesitate and jumped the shot, nice steady trigger sqeeze from start to finish keeping the same point of aim will do it for you... Garentee. :D

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Last edited by cmr287; 04-22-2013 at 07:06..
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:33   #12
Shiloh228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmr287 View Post
if you're practicing in your feeling the trigger on a slope or you tend hesitate and jumped the shot . nice steady triggers Queens from start to finish keeping the same point of aim will do it for you... Garentee. :D

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well said...NOT! WTF are you trying to say?
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:56   #13
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[QUOTE=Arc Angel;20206666]There are no, 'three distinct stages' to a Glock trigger. There's only the initial front end, 'slack' or, 'take up' and the actual trigger break, itself. [QUOTE]

I would disagree with this statement. Especially on the new Gen 4 connectors. There is unquestionably a slight resistance or stacking before the trigger breaks. Additionally the trigger reset is longer. You may want to try a different connector. Mine was swapped for a 3.5 and although the initial trigger pull is longer, it lacks the stacking or "resistance" before breaking. An added benefit is a shorter reset.
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:43   #14
cmr287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmr287 General Glocking
if you're practicing in your feeling the trigger on a slope or you tend hesitate and jumped the shot . nice steady triggers Queens from start to finish keeping the same point of aim will do it for you... Garentee. :D

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well said...NOT! WTF are you trying to say?

Sorry, my post came out not the way It was suposed to.. I was using the speak to txt thing and I have stopped because of the way my post came out...

What I was trying to say was there is a slow fire grouping technique, Slowlt depressing the trigger and concentrating on your shot and feeling your trigger. You should NOT feel 3 stages... A Glock and only two,
1) Take up
2) the break before the shot. You may need to have something done to your glock of you feel 3 stages. Like Completely disassemble it and clean or possibly have the trigger replaced.

dbarn is absolutely correct.
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:52   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbarn View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arc Angel View Post
There are no, 'three distinct stages' to a Glock trigger. There's only the initial front end, 'slack' or, 'take up' and the actual trigger break, itself.
I would disagree with this statement. Especially on the new Gen 4 connectors. There is unquestionably a slight resistance or stacking before the trigger breaks. Additionally the trigger reset is longer. You may want to try a different connector. Mine was swapped for a 3.5 and although the initial trigger pull is longer, it lacks the stacking or "resistance" before breaking. An added benefit is a shorter reset.
You have every right to disagree.

My suggestion, however, is to not make more out of the firing sequence than it really needs to be. Everything you say about the new Gen4 triggers is true; but, I simply tend to think of these triggers as, 'heavier'. That, 'resistance' you talk about is the actual, 'break' itself.

The difference between your shooting style, and my own is that you're focusing on the trigger: take-up, break, and reset. I simply shoot right through it. I bring the trigger back to the break; and, if everything looks and feels good, I, 'press' through it, and allow my trigger finger to, 'bounce' forward. There's no: long take-up, no heavy resistance, and no long reset. (To quote my son: 'It is what it is!')

In my experience, you can't shoot really well and, still, think about all that extraneous stuff. The last time I fired a pistol and began calling things like this out in my mind I was shooting an S&W Sigma. The trigger on that Sigma was an abomination! When I went back to my G-19, it felt and handled as if it were one of my precision 1911's.

THAT is how to shoot! It's all one complete, smoothly progressing process. If you're using a pistol that causes your mind to distinctly differentiate between the different stages of its trigger pull then, as far as I'm concerned, you're either doing things all wrong or, maybe, you're using the wrong gun.
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Old 04-22-2013, 09:23   #16
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If you are feeling three stages, the middle stage might be the firing pin safety being pushed up. In some cases the hump on the trigger bar does not align well enough with the FP safety and tends to slide round the chamfered edge rather than riding up it and over the flat "top" (it is really the bottom). This produced a lot of extra friction.

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Old 04-22-2013, 09:42   #17
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I shoot from reset on everything but the fastest splits. On a close open target, I slap the trigger.
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