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Old 03-26-2013, 11:11   #21
Bren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tucojuanramirez View Post
ok, no lube...
I've read many threads about extractor's issue on G19gen4...
Since I clean the extractor (first time in my G19gen4 life) I've got two FTF, and so I supposed that I clean too much the extractor and where it's sitted, also the factory grease I thought.
Thank you.
Paolo
Lubrication on the extractor will make it more likely to fail, not less likely. Oil on the extractor claw can cause it to slip off the cartridge rim.

Also, most of what you read about extractor issues is nonsense, posted by people who barley know enough about their Glock to find the extractor.
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Old 03-26-2013, 11:47   #22
Made in Austria
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bren View Post
Lubrication on the extractor will make it more likely to fail, not less likely. Oil on the extractor claw can cause it to slip off the cartridge rim.

Also, most of what you read about extractor issues is nonsense, posted by people who barley know enough about their Glock to find the extractor.

Sorry, but I have to disagree. But I am sure you know that those issues we hear about some of the newer Glocks are real, and that most of those issues are not caused by the shooter and/or the ammo. You just won't admit it.
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Old 03-26-2013, 16:23   #23
MarcDW
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Matter a fact, you don't want any oil in the inside of the slide.
Meaning the extractor bar or firing pin channel.
Only oil should be on the barrel and rails.
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Old 03-26-2013, 17:06   #24
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I have an light oil film in my striker channel, extractor, and in all the little channels in the slide. Probably not necessary, but I can't help it. I just have to pull out my q-tips with some CLP on it. Never had any problems in doing so. It depends how often you detail clean your slide. If you never or rarely detail strip it, then I would run those areas dry. If you like to detail strip your slide often like me then it's okay to apply an light oil film. Brass shavings, carbon, and other crap gets and stays in there anyway, most of it doesn't just blow out on the other end, even if you run those areas dry.

All my brand new Glocks which I have bought in recent years had some black oil and small bits of metal in the striker channel. If a dry striker channel is really that important, then I am sure Glock would completely dry those areas before the guns leave the factory.

Last edited by Made in Austria; 03-26-2013 at 17:11..
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Old 03-26-2013, 17:09   #25
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If all it takes is a drop of oil in the firing pin channel or extractor to cause a Glock to go down, they would not be worth owning.
Anyone who does basic maintenance once in a blue moon should never have a problem. I believe a little bit of water working it's way into the firing pin channel or around the extractor is a bigger problem than a drop of oil. A totally oil free part can rust very quickly if exposed to water. Every so often, I remove the firing pin and clean the channel with clp and remove as much of the excess as possible. I then clean the firing pin and give it and the extractor a very light coat of oil. My 11 Glocks run flawlessly.
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Old 03-26-2013, 17:18   #26
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"I've done XYZ and had no problems" doesn't mean it is good practice. Armorers know stuff--right?

Rust: anyone had problems with this?

"If one drop can make a Glock go down..." By all means, put dog poo into your FP channel to test what you can do to a Glock before it malfunctions.


EDIT: sorry this may have come off more sarcastic and less funny than I intended.
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Old 03-26-2013, 17:34   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clusterfrack View Post
"I've done XYZ and had no problems" doesn't mean it is good practice. Armorers know stuff--right?

Rust: anyone had problems with this?

"If one drop can make a Glock go down..." By all means, put dog poo into your FP channel to test what you can do to a Glock before it malfunctions.


EDIT: sorry this may have come off more sarcastic and less funny than I intended.
Use your Google fu and search for "glock rust in firing pin channel" champ! You're naive at best if you think Glocks are immune!
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Old 03-26-2013, 17:40   #28
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I've put countless thousands of rounds through several of my Glocks with little more than a wipe down and a little bit of lube between practice sessions and matches and never had an issue.
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Last edited by jupiter; 03-26-2013 at 17:48.. Reason: Edited to make my post less condescending! :)
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Old 03-26-2013, 17:54   #29
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What about using a dry lube like molybdenum disulfide? It doesn't attract anything, and, since a gun is just another machine, the proper lube helps keep moving parts separated to prevent wear.
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Old 03-26-2013, 17:57   #30
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Clusterfrack, there are two different kinds of armorers. There are the ones who really know their stuff because they are able think beyond of what they have learned, they just know why and how something works. And then there are the ones who know what they have learned at the armorers course and that's it. Same thing with the instructors.

Doctors over in Europe (probably in the US too) in the 1930's-40's (?) told their patients to pick up some radium enriched toothpaste, baby blankets, and some radium enriched drinks and foods because it's good for you.

Last edited by Made in Austria; 03-26-2013 at 17:59..
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Old 03-26-2013, 17:59   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Made in Austria View Post
Clusterfrack, there are two different kinds of armorers. There are the ones who really know their stuff because they are able think beyond of what they have learned, they just know why and how something works. And then there are the ones who know what they have learned at the armorers course and that's it. Same thing with the instructors.

Doctors over in Europe (probably in the US too) in the 1930's-40's (?) told their patients to pick up some radium enriched toothpaste, baby blankets, and some radium enriched drinks and foods because it's good for you.
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Old 03-26-2013, 18:08   #32
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Originally Posted by Made in Austria View Post
Clusterfrack, there are two different kinds of armorers. There are the ones who really know their stuff because they are able think beyond of what they have learned, they just know why and how something works. And then there are the ones who know what they have learned at the armorers course and that's it. Same thing with the instructors.

Doctors over in Europe (probably in the US too) in the 1930's-40's (?) told their patients to pick up some radium enriched toothpaste, baby blankets, and some radium enriched drinks and foods because it's good for you.
Ok ok. Good points all.

I used Eezox in the FP channels of my 1911s when I used to carry them. I've never worried about corrosion in Glocks and HK and never had a problem in many years of hard use.
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Old 03-26-2013, 18:36   #33
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Exactly...
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Old 03-28-2013, 15:29   #34
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thank you very much guys
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Old 03-29-2013, 13:00   #35
tango44
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I always lube my extractor on my G26, no problems at all!
FrogLube is all I use!
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Old 08-28-2013, 13:19   #36
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Do they make a little stronger extractor spring

Do they make a stronger stainless extractor spring.??
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Old 08-28-2013, 13:36   #37
lethal tupperwa
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AGAIN

why does Glock even bother with manuals?
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Old 08-28-2013, 14:19   #38
faawrenchbndr
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thank you very much guys
I'll apologize for everyone's smart azzes........have a great one!

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Old 08-28-2013, 14:28   #39
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Make sure you reassemble the slide correctly. Biggest common mistakes are 1) Lube in the striker channel and EDP assembly. And 2) EDP assembly installed backwards. Think metal on metal, plastic on plastic. EDP metal end in first (contacting the extractor). EDP Spring and plastic bearing contacting the slide cover plate.
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Old 08-28-2013, 14:50   #40
LIGHTNING-FAST
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I know now no oil in firing pin channel

It is hard to keep from wanting to oil the firing pin channel.
Glock just does not like oil But I must refrain my self

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