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Old 01-31-2013, 12:54   #26
Colorado4Wheel
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I would not worry about a powder check in pistol. With a bullet feeder on a 650 your only job is to seat the primer and check for powder. Not exactly challenging. Stay awake and look in every case.
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:55   #27
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Unless you are using pistol powders for the 223 you can not double charge. The only thing it would check was a missed charge. Something that is very hard to do with a 650.

I personally think that most over under charges in fully progressive machines are caused by the operator pulling a case to check the powder and then putting the vase back.

To be clear I am assuming you are using powders that are known to work well in a progressive machine to start with.
I agree completely. For the most part, the alarm isn't necessary. But it's only there for the 1 in 10,000 loads where something really does go wrong.

The only problem I have ever had with powder bridging the funnel is with IMR 4064 (I believe) when I was dumping the scale pan into the funnel. Around the 3rd case, the funnel overflowed! That was kind of a surprise... I should have been watching more carefully. Lesson learned (without pain, BTW).

I have changed over to VV N540 for .308 and the results are quite impressive.

Richard
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:56   #28
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I actually use Lee dies and seat and crimp in one station for .45acp which is the only caliber that I load enough of to justify a bullet feeder and don't use the powder check because I can look into the (short fat) case through the two empty holes in the toolhead. But I would not feel comfortable using a bullet feeder without it. The gsi just looked like a cool solution but without seeing it work in person I would have to load a lot more to justify the expense.
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Old 01-31-2013, 13:52   #29
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I have been thinking about a bullet feeder for a long time. In my imagination, I have been considering some kind of side feed mechanism and the GSI is a lot nicer than that figment of my imagination.

The GSI is kind of pricey but I could see using one on my 1050 for loading .223 (if I every convert it away from .45 ACP). I could also see one on my 650 for .45 and 9mm.

Just not today...

The unit has been around for quite a while, I'm sure any negative issues have been addressed. I would like to find a CURRENT review...

The KISS feeder, for example, doesn't work with lead bullets. That's a bummer because the only .45 I load is lead. Well, I load a little FMJ but the vast majority is 200 gr LSWC. A FMJ only feeder is worthless to me. Well, I suppose it would work for the .223. That's something, I guess.

Richard
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Old 01-31-2013, 14:07   #30
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The entire setup is going to set me back about $1800 including the powder check die so, its not that big of a deal expense wise. and I do plan on loading .223 and .308 in the future.

I do still intend to visually inspect all my cases. I just want the check as extra insurance. I don't want to destroy or damage my guns or myself.

Thanks for all the input. I am still a week from puling the trigger (waiting on tax return) but then it's on. I will keep checking back until then. I am going to watch some videos and read some articles to refresh myself on reloading since it has been awhile for me. I know the basics but powders have changed a bit since I loaded last.
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Old 01-31-2013, 14:09   #31
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None of them will work great with lead because the Lube is seldom perfect on a lubed bullet. So it gums it up and causes issues.
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Old 01-31-2013, 16:17   #32
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The entire setup is going to set me back about $1800 including the powder check die so, its not that big of a deal expense wise. and I do plan on loading .223 and .308 in the future.
When I bought my fully loaded 650 (less the roller handle but including the strong mounts, bullet tray {and you really want the elevated bullet tray} etc), it came to almost exactly $1000. For you, the roller handle is probably the way to go. It would be for me too but I artificially drew a line in the sand. The line will eventually be crossed!

You can save the shipping (probably around $35) if you order Dillon products through BrianEnos.com. I did that for the 650. Every little bit helps.

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I am going to watch some videos and read some articles to refresh myself on reloading since it has been awhile for me. I know the basics but powders have changed a bit since I loaded last.
Heck, Bullseye and Unique have been around for about 100 years (a little over, I believe). Some things don't change (much).

Rifle powders, well, there are some botique powders on the market. It isn't just IMR 3031 or 4064 for .308 any more. Not that those are bad powders, they are excellent. But, for my loads the Vihtavuori N540 is working better (at the moment). Then too, I like Reloder 15 for .223 (bolt action) and Reloder 22 for 6.5x284 Norma. TAC or Varget for AR-15 .223 seems to work pretty well.

Richard
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:55   #33
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Bullseye and Unique are where I was concentrating. I have loaded with them before but it seems to me Unique used to be called something else. It might be my memory that is at fault though. lol

I will be doing mostly range rounds, FMJ, SWC and the like so I will probably stick with Bullseye or Unique as I can find it. When I get to my .223 and 308 I will have other parts to buy for the press so I will look at powders for those before I take that step.

BrianEnos is who I will go through to get this. Shipping is 25 bucks on Dillons site and yes, every little bit helps.
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Old 02-01-2013, 10:09   #34
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Bullseye and Unique are where I was concentrating. I have loaded with them before but it seems to me Unique used to be called something else. It might be my memory that is at fault though. lol

I will be doing mostly range rounds, FMJ, SWC and the like so I will probably stick with Bullseye or Unique as I can find it. When I get to my .223 and 308 I will have other parts to buy for the press so I will look at powders for those before I take that step.

BrianEnos is who I will go through to get this. Shipping is 25 bucks on Dillons site and yes, every little bit helps.
And that's where some folks around here have a few comments. Not so much in your case because you have been around this stuff. But it is often recommended to stay away from fast powders like Bullseye. At least in the beginning.

It has to do with the fact that a full charge of Bullseye won't half fill a case and a double charge won't overflow a case.

I guess I should have known about that when I started using 700-X right out of the gate. It's even faster than Bullseye or Titegroup! Oh well, it was a long time ago and we didn't have an Internet group.

I have been using TAC for AR-15 ammo. I don't know if it is the most accurate powder because the AR has a highly variable 8# trigger pull. There is nothing consistent about that gun. I have some Varget that is destined for that gun.

Now, for .223 bolt action, I have been using Reloder 15 and my grandson is shooting about 1-1/2" groups at 300 yards with a Savage Long Range Precision Varmint.

For .308 bolt action, I have had great success with IMR4064 for my Steyr SSG - 1/2" group at 200 meters. For my new Rem 700, I think VV N540 works better. On a good day, 3/8" group at 100 yards. Still need to try 300 yards.

I don't load for my M1A. So far, I have just used NATO surplus.

Richard
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Old 02-01-2013, 17:09   #35
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Nothing against the powders you are considering, but another worth looking at is 231.
Also a great source for bullets is Missouri Bullet Company. If you need brass check out Starline Brass.
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Old 02-01-2013, 18:38   #36
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Nothing against the powders you are considering, but another worth looking at is 231.
Yes it is! There are a lot of good powders out there. Somebody must be buying them or they would have been discontinued long ago.

Richard
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Old 02-01-2013, 19:25   #37
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Yes it is! There are a lot of good powders out there. Somebody must be buying them or they would have been discontinued long ago.

Richard
I can easily find many good powders for 45acp,WST,WSF,Bullseye,Unique,A few of the AA#'s and others locally but have yet to see a can of 231/hp38 around here
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Old 02-01-2013, 21:27   #38
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Originally Posted by F106 Fan View Post
I have been thinking about a bullet feeder for a long time. In my imagination, I have been considering some kind of side feed mechanism and the GSI is a lot nicer than that figment of my imagination.

The GSI is kind of pricey but I could see using one on my 1050 for loading .223 (if I every convert it away from .45 ACP). I could also see one on my 650 for .45 and 9mm.

Just not today...

The unit has been around for quite a while, I'm sure any negative issues have been addressed. I would like to find a CURRENT review...

The KISS feeder, for example, doesn't work with lead bullets. That's a bummer because the only .45 I load is lead. Well, I load a little FMJ but the vast majority is 200 gr LSWC. A FMJ only feeder is worthless to me. Well, I suppose it would work for the .223. That's something, I guess.

Richard
It is a shame that jack doesn't write here anymore, But I seem to remember that he bought a hornady bullet feeder and got it to work with lead bullets. I believe he honed out the die to for the bigger lead bullet.
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Old 02-01-2013, 22:04   #39
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Buy a decent caliper - dial or digital, as opposed to the China Freight POS. Yer fixin to hemorrhage a butt load of money, why get the cheapest caliper possible? I work aviation, and we have to turn in certain tools every 6 months for calibration. 95% of those Chinese POS "precision" tools and instruments don't pass calibration. Also, don't forget, the Chinese are commies. Don't feed yer enemies.
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Old 02-01-2013, 23:19   #40
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It is a shame that jack doesn't write here anymore, But I seem to remember that he bought a hornady bullet feeder and got it to work with lead bullets. I believe he honed out the die to for the bigger lead bullet.
It's not so much the size of the bullet but the wax based lube. After a few 100, things get sticky. Moly coated lead yes, plated & jacketed yes, conventional lead, it's going to cause issues.
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Old 02-02-2013, 11:34   #41
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If you have carpel tunnel I would get the 650. MUCH easier to push to prime then the LnL. Even better would be the 1050 that has no push to prime at all and is very smooth and easy to use. I fear the LnL would be too hard on your damaged parts.
I have the 550B, so am I understanding this correctly, the 650 takes less pressure to operate, or is that just compared to the LnL?

Also, how does the 1050 feed the primer differently, without pushing? Perhaps I can find a video that shows how it works.

Steve
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Old 02-02-2013, 11:53   #42
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The 550 and 650 use the exact same handle I am betting that it is the same. I haven't used a 550 in a while but I don't remember the 650 being easier than the 550 was. Maybe someone who has both will answer. But the LNL takes a lot more pressure than the 650.
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Old 02-02-2013, 21:25   #43
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For the record. Hornady is even on record that their press takes more pressure to push to prime then a Dillon. They say about 75lbs IIRC. It's a lot.
I have never even for once thougth that priming with a LnL was hard, this is news to me. Now it may be harder than a Dillon, but hard???? eat some protein and pick up some iron just picking don't get mad,

Not intended for individual who started the thread, just surprised to hear that about the LnL.

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Old 02-03-2013, 05:49   #44
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If you use a Dillon for years going to a LnL is a step down in that area.

550 + 650 are basically the same in my experience from a push to prime perspective.
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Old 02-03-2013, 11:56   #45
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I have never even for once thougth that priming with a LnL was hard, this is news to me. Now it may be harder than a Dillon, but hard???? eat some protein and pick up some iron just picking don't get mad,

Not intended for individual who started the thread, just surprised to hear that about the LnL.
It's the poor desig of the primer delivery, not how much force you apply. My buddy machined a slighlty longer priming punch to get his to seat properly. The Dillon's don't suffer from this. Plus the 650's rotary delivery system is far superior to the LNL. I have maybe 10K rounds thru my 650 now, It's never hicupped once priming. That alone is worth the $100 higher price over a LNL
Quote:
Also, how does the 1050 feed the primer differently, without pushing? Perhaps I can find a video that shows how it works.
I don't have one, but my understanding is the 1050 rpimes on the downstroke in a separate stn. So priming is more effortless.
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Old 02-03-2013, 17:00   #46
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Not an expert on progressive presses. I guess I am lucky I have about 5k through my LnL thus far no issue yet and primers seat good. Prior to using LnL I hand primed everything so I am picky. Had I read all this I would have continued to hand prime. Glad I didn't
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Old 02-03-2013, 17:30   #47
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Bullseye and Unique are where I was concentrating. I have loaded with them before but it seems to me Unique used to be called something else. It might be my memory that is at fault though. lol

I will be doing mostly range rounds, FMJ, SWC and the like so I will probably stick with Bullseye or Unique as I can find it. When I get to my .223 and 308 I will have other parts to buy for the press so I will look at powders for those before I take that step.

BrianEnos is who I will go through to get this. Shipping is 25 bucks on Dillons site and yes, every little bit helps.
and even though you are ordering it from Brian, it will be shipped from Dillon themselves, you just wont get a tracking number emailed to you. Also you will get the Dillon Blue Press magazine every month which is also good reading
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Old 02-03-2013, 17:58   #48
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I have the 550B, so am I understanding this correctly, the 650 takes less pressure to operate, or is that just compared to the LnL?

Also, how does the 1050 feed the primer differently, without pushing? Perhaps I can find a video that shows how it works.

Steve
There is a slide under the primer magazine that moves a primer under the case.

The primer is ready and waiting for the down handle stroke where it is inserted into the case.

It's a completely different feeling when you prime on the downstroke. In fact, you really don't even know you are priming.

Richard
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Old 02-03-2013, 18:04   #49
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There is a slide under the primer magazine that moves a primer under the case.

The primer is ready and waiting for the down handle stroke where it is inserted into the case.

It's a completely different feeling when you prime on the downstroke. In fact, you really don't even know you are priming.

Richard
Thanks Richard!

Maybe a second Dillon is in order, like a 650!

Now I just have to figure out how I can justify such a purchase.


Steve
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Old 02-03-2013, 19:29   #50
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Also you will get the Dillon Blue Press magazine every month which is also good reading
You're telling me there's stuff past the cover??
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