[grit usmc]

hello everyone

i have a century arms cetme that is having issues not ejecting spent brass and failing to feed the next round. it worked great for the first 500 or so rounds but now i have to manually cycle the bolt for every round. my research so far says it may be that the trunnion worn. any ideas??

thanks
Grit

[countrygun]

I had one. It is amazing what the drunken monkeys that assembled Century's CETMEs got way with. They actually shortened the mechanical life in order to get the things to work for a while.

Check on the 'net to see about their headspacing techniques. Mine worked fine and I traded it off while it still did. It had a zero problem that was too aggravating to deal with.

[grit usmc]

Originally Posted by countrygun

Check on the 'net to see about their headspacing techniques.

thats one thing im trying to find is what the head spacing is normally set at and how to check/adjust it if its not right. do you know any good resources

thanks
grit

[countrygun]

Originally Posted by grit usmc

thats one thing im trying to find is what the head spacing is normally set at and how to check/adjust it if its not right. do you know any good resources

thanks
grit

Best thing I can say is to prowl the internet forums I got a lot of info back then but when I got rid of the gun I didn't keep up with the sites.

There was quite a bit of info around about how the assemblers had cheated on the headspace with apparently a Dremel.

[grit usmc]

Originally Posted by countrygun

Best thing I can say is to prowl the internet forums I got a lot of info back then but when I got rid of the gun I didn't keep up with the sites.

There was quite a bit of info around about how the assemblers had cheated on the headspace with apparently a Dremel.

ive done work with a dremel... not encouraging...

thanks for the info i'll look around and see what i can find

[SiGlockBoy]

Headspace could be a problem and can be checked with a closed bolt up through magwell with some quality feeler guages. I believe most were in the .003-.004" range for a good to go gap. Replacing the roller locks is easy enough to tighten things up as long as there wasn't too much monkeying that happened to it.

Trunnions were welded in improperly also to the receivers as well as many receivers were twisted during welding causing interesting problems. SS receivers tended to be better than steel ones.

That said I had several with no ill affects and still have one that runs like a champ.

You also need to check chamber for burs as it was fluted to help ejection, burrs can stop ejection.

Check the ejector also. spring could be worn or broken. These were parts guns and all old crusty parts were reused.

Check gas port and piston function also. Port might be partially blocked. Pistons were canted or rubbed pretty bad on some. Also due to poor welding of receivers to tubes.

Test with snap caps or dummy rounds.