[chucky2]

I finally ordered the Gen4 Glock 20 and I'm starting to think about (and acquire) what I'll need for it when it gets here. For lube I decided to try some of that Froglube stuff. I've ordered a 10mm->.40 conversion barrel from KKM. For the fun stuff and home defense, I ordered some Underwood 135 gr. hollow points.

I'm wondering though, is there some clean burning, preferably weak (I'm new to pistol shooting), 10mm ammo that I can run through the new G20 to break it in with the stock barrel? Heck, even if it's not clean burning, what cheap range ammo would you guys recommend?

(and for those of you from my other thread, I've decided that Yes I'm going to try and get one of those Advantage Arms .22 conversion kits. The allure of shooting for virtually free is just too much.)

Thanks for any info and/or perspective here!

Chuck

[JackMac]

dont need to break in a Glock in my humble opinion

[davsco]

really no break in needed. if you will be using for defense, shoot what you plan to use thru it just to confirm all is well and verify point of impact. run thru each mag to ensure it's functioning. then have fun.

[GIG4FUN]

break in... may be something for me to learn. I never knew.

[Ryno12]

Yeah, I didn't "break in" my G20 either. Any store bought Federal or Remington ammo is pretty weak, if that's what you want. You may also want to consider reloading for your 10mm.

Sent from my HTC One V using Tapatalk 2

[Opie 1 Kenopie]

Definitely look at reloading. But for now, I'd buy some of Underwood's FMJ rounds in a light weight for the range. He makes some quality range ammo that is STILL cheaper than most off the shelf stuff you'll find. And since you're paying shipping for your SD ammo anyway, you might as well load up, shipping one box or five is the same.

[Ryno12]

Originally Posted by Opie 1 Kenopie

Definitely look at reloading. But for now, I'd buy some of Underwood's FMJ rounds in a light weight for the range. He makes some quality range ammo that is STILL cheaper than most off the shelf stuff you'll find. And since you're paying shipping for your SD ammo anyway, you might as well load up, shipping one box or five is the same.

He said he wanted weak ammo. That's why I suggested store bought junk.

Sent from my HTC One V using Tapatalk 2

[bac1023]

Originally Posted by JackMac

dont need to break in a Glock in my humble opinion

[4949shooter]

It sounds like the OP wants to get himself used to the gun (break himself in). I would certainly suggest a couple or 5 boxes of Federal 180 grain fmj for this purpose. Then you can move on to the hotter stuff.

[Taterhead]

Rem UMC is better ammo than American Eagle, in my opinion. A teensy bit more expensive.

I agree that the G20 can just go ahead and shoot whatever ammo. However, the OP might want to "work up" to full strength stuff. Not a bad plan.

Let's get serious though, if one plans to shoot this cartridge alot, reloading is virtually mandatory -- unless money is plentiful.

[blastfact]

As stated. Sounds like the shooter wants to break there self in. And thats not a bad thing at all.

If I wasn't a reloader I would be placing a large order with Underwood. I wouldn't waist any time shooting 135gn loads with it. Start with 155 and 165gn loads.

OP your G20 will not be a wild beast in your hands. It will shoot softer than you think. It is a big pistol, there's no mistaking that.

Get that King of Glocks to the range. Take your time with it. You will leave the range with a big smile and a sore face from smiling so much.

[chucky2]

Thanks for the comments All!

Haha, Yes, I both want to break myself in and the G20. I read some threads on here where there is copper colored lube/grease on the G20 that should be left on to normally wear off. I just sort of assumed that some kind of wear-in process between the steel rails in the frame and the slide would occur, and that during this, it'd be better to run more weak ammo rather than just start out with the full bore stuff like from Underwood.

I'm working on getting the Advantage Arms .22 conversion kit (put in a bid today on Gunbroker, and if that falls through, will look to acquire locally; some of the Gunbroker prices are nuts...$315+shipping???).

I was just thinking that if I got some weak ammo, that it'd tend to be cheaper. And since this is my first pistol, shooting weak ammo would be cheaper, potentially better for the G20 (sounds like it doesn't matter there...) and easier on me shooting. In my other thread a couple warned about developing a flinch, and I don't want to start out by rapidly screwing myself up. For sure my 5 or so 10 rd groups at 7 yards at the range were unimpressive, where-as some of you guys are making a ragged hole at 25 yrds or whatever.

Just want to start out as right as possible...

Chuck

[Taterhead]

Originally Posted by chucky2

Thanks for the comments All!

Haha, Yes, I both want to break myself in and the G20. I read some threads on here where there is copper colored lube/grease on the G20 that should be left on to normally wear off. I just sort of assumed that some kind of wear-in process between the steel rails in the frame and the slide would occur, and that during this, it'd be better to run more weak ammo rather than just start out with the full bore stuff like from Underwood.

I'm working on getting the Advantage Arms .22 conversion kit (put in a bid today on Gunbroker, and if that falls through, will look to acquire locally; some of the Gunbroker prices are nuts...$315+shipping???).

I was just thinking that if I got some weak ammo, that it'd tend to be cheaper. And since this is my first pistol, shooting weak ammo would be cheaper, potentially better for the G20 (sounds like it doesn't matter there...) and easier on me shooting. In my other thread a couple warned about developing a flinch, and I don't want to start out by rapidly screwing myself up. For sure my 5 or so 10 rd groups at 7 yards at the range were unimpressive, where-as some of you guys are making a ragged hole at 25 yrds or whatever.

Just want to start out as right as possible...

Chuck

Good thoughts. Here is another unsolicited, albeit repeated, thought...

For that $315, you would be better served getting a reloading kit. Your break even on 10mm will come quickly. My reloads cost 16 cents each and I don't cast my own. American Eagle was almost 60 cents a round when I glanced at prices the other day. Let's say, conservatively, that you save 40 cents per round, the break even point is not far off.

You are going to love this gun, and you are going to want to shoot it a lot. Handloading is the only real way to make that feasible. Plus you can make the exact ammo that you want. Powder puff, full blast, or something in-between. 120 grain to 220 grain bullets.

I recommend this kit because the throw, scale, press, and manual are great. The Speer manual does a great job of explaining the process. Some guys would recommend the Lee Classic Turret to get you going, and I wouldn't argue against it. Some will tell you that it is masochistic to load pistol ammo on a single stage press, but it certainly works. Many have done it and then added a progressive press to the loading bench later. The RCBS Rock Chucker press is one that you won't want to part with even if you do get a progressive setup later.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/937...tage-press-kit

There is a $50 rebate program too.

You'd also need dies. Something like this:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/373...nd-w-10mm-auto

Shell holder like this:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/144...nd-w-10mm-auto

And calipers:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/119...tainless-steel

One thing about calipers is that many of them seem to be identical as if they are made by the same supplier and then branded by the various reloading gear companies. So go with an inexpensive one. I prefer dial calipers over digital.

I think a set of check weights has much to be recommended too. I use them regularly.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/212...ight-check-set

A powder trickler is also a really nice inexpensive add for those load workups where you are wanting to precisely hand weigh charges.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/169...der-trickler-2

There are some other nice-to-haves like a case cleaner, media separator, and jewel cases; but you can live without them or add them over time. I see this as a lifetime hobby.

[chucky2]

Originally Posted by Taterhead

Good thoughts. Here is another unsolicited, albeit repeated, thought... snip.

Taterhead: There really are two problems with me reloading:

1.) Time. I live with my two parents, both have cancer, and I work full time. Plus now that spring/summer/fall is coming, we've got landscaping coming up at our house, a new roof at my aunts, and then a 1.5 hour away lake property that needs at minimum every other weekend maintenance. On top of that, I've committed to lose about 90 lbs. this year, so every night after working and the parents, I put in an hour to two of exercise. I probably could find the time, but honestly, I just don't have the heart for it. Then there's #2...

2.) Space. My parents both have inherited furniture and bulky things that neither will part with. Our tri-level is literally full up (not Hoarders full up, but, as full up as one can get and still have the house look presentable) with....stuff....and I have no room to put a reloading setup.

If/When I get my own place, I will have a reloading setup like you've linked up there. Heck, I'll probably have a gun only room. Right now though, it's just too much all things considered. I'm stuck buying the 10mm retail, which is where I hope the .22 conversion will help me out. The other nice thing about the .22 conversion is, I can put it on, and take my parents shooting. Even in their weakend state (they're actually doing very good for what they each have) they can shoot .22. Will be so much more enjoyable for them.

I've got a Gun folder on my PC, have saved your links for when I'm ready to go that route. Appreciate it!

Chuck

[chucky2]

Not to derail my own thread, but, is there like a known kit that one needs to clean and maintain their Glock? All I will have when I get it is whatever comes with the LE kit (GSSF purchase) and whatever comes with the Froglube kit I just ordered off Amazon (just the lube and a microfiber towel I think in that). Is that all I'll need or should I get other stuff?

Chuck

[Taterhead]

Originally Posted by chucky2

Taterhead: There really are two problems with me reloading:

1.) Time. I live with my two parents, both have cancer, and I work full time. Plus now that spring/summer/fall is coming, we've got landscaping coming up at our house, a new roof at my aunts, and then a 1.5 hour away lake property that needs at minimum every other weekend maintenance. On top of that, I've committed to lose about 90 lbs. this year, so every night after working and the parents, I put in an hour to two of exercise. I probably could find the time, but honestly, I just don't have the heart for it. Then there's #2...

2.) Space. My parents both have inherited furniture and bulky things that neither will part with. Our tri-level is literally full up (not Hoarders full up, but, as full up as one can get and still have the house look presentable) with....stuff....and I have no room to put a reloading setup.

If/When I get my own place, I will have a reloading setup like you've linked up there. Heck, I'll probably have a gun only room. Right now though, it's just too much all things considered. I'm stuck buying the 10mm retail, which is where I hope the .22 conversion will help me out. The other nice thing about the .22 conversion is, I can put it on, and take my parents shooting. Even in their weakend state (they're actually doing very good for what they each have) they can shoot .22. Will be so much more enjoyable for them.

I've got a Gun folder on my PC, have saved your links for when I'm ready to go that route. Appreciate it!

Chuck

Chuck, you have a very full plate! I wish the best for your parents. That is a tough deal. It is great that you are there for your folks. A little "lead therapy" can boost the soul. Sending lead down range always gets me in a better mood. Great plan.

Great weight loss goal. Getting fit feels darned good. I am more fit in my 40s than I was at age 30, by a long way! I am looking forward to a rare day off tomorrow for some skiing with my wife.

Quick tip, I always find that I am more motivated to workout today if I worked out yesterday. It is weird how that works. I am least motivated to work out when I have a day or two off. So I workout almost every day. Big fan of Tony Horton's routines. Also, when I am working out daily, I do not crave crappy food. Double benefit. Everybody has a different motivation, but for me exercise is the crux of it all.

[Taterhead]

Originally Posted by chucky2

Not to derail my own thread, but, is there like a known kit that one needs to clean and maintain their Glock? All I will have when I get it is whatever comes with the LE kit (GSSF purchase) and whatever comes with the Froglube kit I just ordered off Amazon (just the lube and a microfiber towel I think in that). Is that all I'll need or should I get other stuff?

Chuck

Get any .40 cal cleaning kit that has a brash bore brush. The plastic one that came with your Glock is crap. Get a big ol' bag of patches of the right size. I like Hoppe's #9 for my Glocks since I don't shoot much lead, and it doesn't stink too badly like some solvents do. Gun oil should come with your cleaning kit.

To detail strip your gun, you can get a Glock tool. I have found that a nail punch works fine too. For detail cleaning a little rubbing alcohol and Q-Tips works pretty good for all of the small areas. Just don't let any of the cotton fuzz remain in the striker channel and so forth.

Consult youtube for many walk-throughs for how to detail strip the Glock.

[chucky2]

Originally Posted by Taterhead

Chuck, you have a very full plate! I wish the best for your parents. That is a tough deal. It is great that you are there for your folks. A little "lead therapy" can boost the soul. Sending lead down range always gets me in a better mood. Great plan.

It's not that bad really. They are fairly self sufficient so really, for now at least, it is far less stressful than it'd seem. But yeah, I - and they - are looking forward to going shooting. Mom even is getting her FOID (needed in IL many times). Crazy...

Great weight loss goal. Getting fit feels darned good. I am more fit in my 40s than I was at age 30, by a long way! I am looking forward to a rare day off tomorrow for some skiing with my wife.

Quick tip, I always find that I am more motivated to workout today if I worked out yesterday. It is weird how that works. I am least motivated to work out when I have a day or two off. So I workout almost every day. Big fan of Tony Horton's routines. Also, when I am working out daily, I do not crave crappy food. Double benefit. Everybody has a different motivation, but for me exercise is the crux of it all.

I actually was doing really good 3 years ago, right before my dad got diagnosed. Got a kidney stone though, put me out of commission for a bit and then it was summer...and I just slacked off. Then I slacked off on the eating and drinking good, and, I'm right back or worse than I was. If I can only get 2 weeks straight of gumption, I know I'll be right back into it. Need to go get embarrassed at a bar or something haha.

Originally Posted by Taterhead

Get any .40 cal cleaning kit that has a brash bore brush. The plastic one that came with your Glock is crap. Get a big ol' bag of patches of the right size. I like Hoppe's #9 for my Glocks since I don't shoot much lead, and it doesn't stink too badly like some solvents do. Gun oil should come with your cleaning kit.

To detail strip your gun, you can get a Glock tool. I have found that a nail punch works fine too. For detail cleaning a little rubbing alcohol and Q-Tips works pretty good for all of the small areas. Just don't let any of the cotton fuzz remain in the striker channel and so forth.

Consult youtube for many walk-throughs for how to detail strip the Glock.

Ok, sounds good! Where would you go for the .40 cal cleaning kit? MidwayUSA or something like that?

Chuck

[Taterhead]

Originally Posted by chucky2

Ok, sounds good! Where would you go for the .40 cal cleaning kit? MidwayUSA or something like that?

Chuck

Midway, or your local gun store - or even Walmart. You don't need anything fancy.

[chucky2]

Originally Posted by Taterhead

Midway, or your local gun store - or even Walmart. You don't need anything fancy.

Ok, when I pickup my G20 I'll get one there. I'm sure they'll have it, they're pretty big (unless the craze has cleaned them out).

[VN350X10]

I always suggest that a gun buyer shoot about 500 rds. of factory with a new Glock, leave the copper stuff in place (Fel-Pro C5-A, it's a Mil Spec anti sieze), don't clean or dismantle until after the first 500.
Also, using factory has an advantage, in that most firearms, if they're goiong to have a problem, will usually have it in the first couple of hundred rounds. If something DOES go wrong, a mfg'r. will respond better to you using factory. Most, Glock included, put a disclaimer in about using reloaded ammo & might give you grief with a problem.
The 500 round break in will take care of most everything.
As for cleaning, a Bore-Snake is a great investment. And the WORSE thing you can do to your Glock is over-oil it. I've worked in gun shops since 1997, & the most often cause of a Glock malfunctioning is TOO MUCH OIL.

I ran my 1st Glock, a G20, in the following manner, to test things:
All test runs were with 500 red. each.
1) Bore brush, out of box as shipped & lubed (500 rds)
2) Clean & oil per instruction manual (500 rds)
3) Stripped of ALL LUBE, run dry. The pistol was cleaned with lacquer thinner for this one ! (500 rds)
4) Lubed with powdered graphite, as for artic conditions (500 rds)
5) Cleaned to remove the graphite, lubed per manual & shot since.
I clean this pistol about every 1000 rds, +/- and it currently has well over 25K thru it with no problems. This is the pistol I shoot most at GSSF matches.
The first 2K thru it were aluminum cased Blazer, as there was no 10MM to be found back then. The Norma had dried up in my area.
Yes, I reload, a LOT !
Good luck with your new Glockl


uncle albert

[chucky2]

VN350X10,

You're saying to shoot the G20 out of the box w/o cleaning or lubing it first? I get that the copper grease/lube is to be left on, but Glock's own literature on their website says to lube before first firing (http://us.glock.com/documents/gun_maintenance.pdf).

Is that not possible to lube the gun and still leave the copper grease/lube on (i.e. one or other scenario)?

Chuck

[VN350X10]

Run a bore brush thru the barrel. The one that comes with the pistol will serve nicely. The idea is to make sure that there is no excess grease or other obsttructions in the borer.
The copper anti-sieze is an excellent lube.Like I posted above, this stuff carries a mil-spec # for use in all envirinments.It is very effective as a lube & will serve well. This is why it's put on the pistols AFTER they get into the U.S.A. & before they're shipped to the distributers. Trust the stuff, it works well.
As far as an oil, after break-in, Mobil-1 will be excellent & a quart will last forever +6 days. Can't beat the price compared to "gun oil" either. Film strength is what keeps any lubricant working & Mobil-1 is better than most.
After cleaning, I personally re-lube my pistols with the C5-A antisieze, as it can't migrate into the firing pin channel like oil can possibly do, causing mis-fires.

uncle albert

[4949shooter]

Originally Posted by VN350X10

Run a bore brush thru the barrel. The one that comes with the pistol will serve nicely. The idea is to make sure that there is no excess grease or other obsttructions in the borer.
The copper anti-sieze is an excellent lube.Like I posted above, this stuff carries a mil-spec # for use in all envirinments.It is very effective as a lube & will serve well. This is why it's put on the pistols AFTER they get into the U.S.A. & before they're shipped to the distributers. Trust the stuff, it works well.
As far as an oil, after break-in, Mobil-1 will be excellent & a quart will last forever +6 days. Can't beat the price compared to "gun oil" either. Film strength is what keeps any lubricant working & Mobil-1 is better than most.
After cleaning, I personally re-lube my pistols with the C5-A antisieze, as it can't migrate into the firing pin channel like oil can possibly do, causing mis-fires.

uncle albert

This is good advice.

[OregonG20]

It's a Glock, not a 1911...lol. Just shoot it. Evidence shows it will run flawlessly straight outta the box. Breaking in and lubing with this and that are more for "fun" than anything else. I have about 7000 hiccup-free rounds through mine and I didn't do anything special to it. I agree with the above statement that if a gun is gonna have a problem, it's usually gonna happen early in it's life. If you don't do anything to it, leave it stock, and it has a problem, then you know it's likely a default with the gun. If you do all sorts of "special"things to it, and start having problems, you won't know what may have caused it.

Nothing makes me shake my head more than the guys on here that have changed out recoil springs, mag springs, barrels and strikers and the like and then have reliability issues and can't seem to get to the bottom of it. Not saying you are doing anything like that, just that it is funny.