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Old 01-05-2013, 14:41   #1
NMG26
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Leading

I bought my first 500 rounds of 158 grain SWC lead bullets from Missouri Bullet Company. I bullets load and shoot great. I have some lead concerns that I don't know how to clean.

There is a product called The Lewis Lead Remover that they sell on the Missouri Bullet Company site. 31 Bucks. Anyone use it? I think I will buy it with my next order. Until then what is the best way to remove lead?

Thanks
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Old 01-05-2013, 15:14   #2
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Lead removal can be done with an old bore brush wrapped in some “Chore Boy” scouring pad, you would use it in a similar manner as the “Lewis Lead Remover”.

Just make sure you get the all copper Chore Boy pad as they also make a copper clad steel pad, take a magnet with, if the magnet sticks to the pad, you don’t want it.

Just wrap the bore brush with enough Chore Boy to get a tight fit, use a little bore cleaner/oil and run it back and forth in the bore a couple times, hold the muzzle over a paper towel and you’ll see the lead flakes.

After running the bore brush/Chore Boy through the bore a couple of times, clean the bore as you normally would and check the bore, if it’s clean and shiny, your good to go, if it still has a dull gray look to it, have at it again.

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Old 01-05-2013, 15:20   #3
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Originally Posted by sig357fan View Post
Lead removal can be done with an old bore brush wrapped in some “Chore Boy” scouring pad, you would use it in a similar manner as the “Lewis Lead Remover”.
I'll look for those at the walmart next time I'm there.

Thanks for the tip.
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Old 01-05-2013, 15:35   #4
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[QUOTE

Just wrap the bore brush with enough Chore Boy to get a tight fit, use a little bore cleaner/oil and run it back and forth in the bore a couple times, hold the muzzle over a paper towel and you’ll see the lead flakes.

[/QUOTE]

I do the same except I use it dry with nothing else.
Works great
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Old 01-05-2013, 15:57   #5
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NMG26,

I use those lead bullets also for both 38 special & 357 magnum loads... I love them!

To minimize lead fowling try to keep the velocity of your rounds under 950 fps. This will keep the lead from heating up too much and reduce the amount of lead left in your barrel. You can still produce a good solid mid-range target load at those velocities.

Best product I have used to date for lead clean up in my barrels;

Kano Kroil Penetration Oil and bore Cleaning Solvent
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/137...nt-8-oz-liquid

Or pick it up locally, this stuff really works!
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Old 01-05-2013, 16:07   #6
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I'll look for those at the walmart next time I'm there.

Thanks for the tip.
the only ones I've ever seen in Walmart are the copper "coated"
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Old 01-05-2013, 16:16   #7
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You can use it dry as ken grant said but it’s a little easier on the hand if you use little bore cleaner/oil.

I’ve also made a cleaning rod specifically for the Chore Boy wrapped bore brushes from a piece of carbon arrow. I just cut it to about 10” and glued an insert in as you would for a screw in field point. Just get the right thread bore brushes, I think its 8-32 thread.

The carbon arrow piece is more rigid than a cleaning rod so you aren’t bowing the rod and contacting the inside of the bore when in use, the carbon arrow diameter is small enough to work in 9mm.

I keep the carbon arrow piece and a couple of bore brushes of various sizes for the calibers I shoot in my range box for easy access at the range, and run it through the bore after a couple of mags just to keep lead build up to a minimum.

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Old 01-05-2013, 16:19   #8
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the only ones I've ever seen in Walmart are the copper "coated"
Been awhile since I bought Chore Boy and can't remember where I got it, one box will last a long, long time.

Maybe try Lowe's/Home Depot?

Just be sure its all copper, not copper clad.

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Old 01-05-2013, 16:20   #9
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the only ones I've ever seen in Walmart are the copper "coated"
Have to remember to bring a magnet with me when I shop.

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Old 01-05-2013, 16:57   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kentguy View Post
NMG26,

I use those lead bullets also for both 38 special & 357 magnum loads... I love them!

To minimize lead fowling try to keep the velocity of your rounds under 950 fps. This will keep the lead from heating up too much and reduce the amount of lead left in your barrel. You can still produce a good solid mid-range target load at those velocities.

Best product I have used to date for lead clean up in my barrels;

Kano Kroil Penetration Oil and bore Cleaning Solvent
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/137...nt-8-oz-liquid

Or pick it up locally, this stuff really works!
I clicked on your url thinking it was a new product because of the "Cleaning Solvent" part. I do have some and use it, but didn't know it was marketed as a cleaning solvent. Great tip!
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Old 01-05-2013, 17:03   #11
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You can probably borrow a magnet from the kitchen wares section while you're shopping

Instead of removing leading, try and avoid it. It's not a matter of velocity as much as it is velocity for the type of powder being used. What kind of load are you looking for and what powder are you using?
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Old 01-05-2013, 17:11   #12
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Wont a bore become more conditioned to lead after several shootings and cleanings?
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Old 01-05-2013, 17:19   #13
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Instead of removing leading, try and avoid it. It's not a matter of velocity as much as it is velocity for the type of powder being used. What kind of load are you looking for and what powder are you using?
I'm not chronographing so I'm just going by feel.

I also have diverged from the recipe because I have magnum primers for 357 and 38 spcl.

With a magnum primer I am using 5.0-5.5 grains Unique for 357 magnum.........158g LSWC

I probably will not load any more 38 special with the magnum primers.
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Old 01-05-2013, 17:27   #14
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I'm not chronographing so I'm just going by feel.

I also have diverged from the recipe because I have magnum primers for 357 and 38 spcl.

With a magnum primer I am using 5.0-5.5 grains Unique for 357 magnum.........158g LSWC

I probably will not load any more 38 special with the magnum primers.
That's actually about a perfect load. It's one I would have suggested. In 38 brass it about duplicates the +P 158 factory lead HP loads. You shouldn't be getting leading with that load.

Can you check the diameter of the bullets? A micrometer is best, but a caliper would be good enough.

I run soft lead 158's much higher with a max charge of Unique, I forget what it is at this point and don't want to steer you wrong, and get zero leading in several guns (357mag).
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Old 01-05-2013, 17:28   #15
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Oh, and are you sure what you see in your bore is lead? Have you tried regular cleaning to see if it comes right out? Often, what you see is just carbon and it comes right out with any normal bore cleaner and a few passes with a brush.
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Old 01-05-2013, 17:31   #16
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Wont a bore become more conditioned to lead after several shootings and cleanings?
I don't know. I've shot new and old guns and got, and not gotten leading. The usual causes of leading are pushing the bullet too fast for the powder being used, or too hard of a bullet and too low pressure. A hard, undersized, bullet shot at target velocities like regular 38's, will often lead real badly.

Many commercial bullets are smaller in diameter than they should be and harder than they need to be. I shoot soft, big, bullets at 1,500 fps and don't get leading.
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Old 01-05-2013, 18:09   #17
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Oh, and are you sure what you see in your bore is lead? Have you tried regular cleaning to see if it comes right out? Often, what you see is just carbon and it comes right out with any normal bore cleaner and a few passes with a brush.
Looks pretty good. The bore is ok.

I'd like to get a few spots cleaner.

The forcing cone and the cylinder bore right where the diam change is.
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Old 01-05-2013, 20:13   #18
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The formula for lead bullets is hard cast with a slow powder, soft cast with a fast powder. If the bullet is not of the correct diameter for the bore, you cannot eliminate the leading.

Just don't shoot any jacketed thru the barrel until you've removed the lead. The old misconception about "blowing the lead out" isn't so - it actually forces the lead into the microscopic pores and makes it harder to remove.

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Old 01-05-2013, 20:41   #19
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If you can't find Chore boy,O Cedar Copper Scrubbers also works well and I see them in many stores.
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Old 01-05-2013, 23:45   #20
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Looks pretty good. The bore is ok.

I'd like to get a few spots cleaner.

The forcing cone and the cylinder bore right where the diam change is.
Lead bullets are all about fit first. Leading has little to do with vel but more pressures & fit. Early leading is almost always a bulelt fit issue. If yo uhave pin gages or an ID micrometer, check the cyl throat dims. At the leas, try pushing a bullet thru each. If a 0.357" bullet will NOT just fit thru w/ some force, the throats are too small.
If you are shooting a 0.358" buller thru a 0.357" throat, then the bullet is swaged down to that size BEFORE it hits the bbl throat, then it has to bump back up. That duration is where you get flame cutting & then early leading. So fit is first, make sure the cyl throat dims match the groove dia or are slightly bigger.
Pressures are next. A soft lead bullet will only withstand so much pressures before the base deforms & you get gas blow by & leading. If the bore is larger, you want the bullet to upset to fill it, so you need higher pressures or softer allows. If the bullet fits, alloy isn't as important, Vel by itself means little. I can run a medium hard lead bullet in my 45-70 @ 1600fps w/o significant leading.
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Old 01-06-2013, 00:24   #21
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Lead bullets are all about fit first. Leading has little to do with vel but more pressures & fit. Early leading is almost always a bulelt fit issue. If yo uhave pin gages or an ID micrometer, check the cyl throat dims. At the leas, try pushing a bullet thru each. If a 0.357" bullet will NOT just fit thru w/ some force, the throats are too small.
I'll grab some gage pins from work tomorrow.

I tried using bullets but the lead bullets seemed a bit out of round and measured a bit big.

A 357- jacketed bullet fit through easily.

Gage pins seems the way to go.

So what should the barrel bore measure compared to the cylinder bore?

This is a SP101 3" by the way.
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Old 01-06-2013, 00:28   #22
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Groove dia + 0.001" minimum for proper bore fit. Then the cyl throats should match that or even be a tiny bit larger. Get too large & the bullet bumps up then gets swaged down, never a good recipe for accuracy. IF a 0.357" bullet fits easily, then you are probably close. Next would be to slug the bore. Some times you can have a large bbl throat, so you get leading right there before the bullet can bump up. If the pressures are low & the bullet hard, then it won't bump up & you get leading early. So a softer bullet or slightly larger may help. Trying to find commercial casters making 0.359" bullets can be a chore though, so a slightly softer bullet @ those pressures would be a better fix. Casting your own allows for control over everything; alloy, size & bullet lube. That is another thread though.
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Old 01-06-2013, 09:05   #23
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I've always been able to find Chore Boy at Ace Hardware and Walgreens.
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Old 01-06-2013, 09:45   #24
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If you can't find Chore boy,O Cedar Copper Scrubbers also works well and I see them in many stores.
Quote:
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I've always been able to find Chore Boy at Ace Hardware and Walgreens.
thanks for the tips, I'll keep them in mind next time I'm out and about.

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Old 01-06-2013, 21:57   #25
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I'll look for those at the walmart next time I'm there.

Thanks for the tip.
My local Wal Mart only carries the off brand steel that is copper plated.
The Chore Boy brand is/states 99.9% pure copper,I have found the best place for me to find them is the local Ace Hardware.
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