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Old 10-02-2012, 13:26   #21
fredj338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colorado4Wheel View Post
What do you mean?
Just hacking Steve. Depending on how you buy & component type & cost, you can get to 50% of cheaper factory in any bullet wt.
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Old 10-02-2012, 14:36   #22
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Yeah, I have seen some pretty good bulk buys on 9mm so I went with 40%. Me. I load it for $3.5 per hundred.
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Old 10-02-2012, 14:39   #23
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Yeah, I have seen some pretty good bulk buys on 9mm so I went with 40%. Me. I load it for $3.5 per hundred.
About what I load my .357 Sig for.
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Old 10-02-2012, 16:28   #24
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I load 1000 9mm for $110.

I can load 100 in maybe 7 minutes on my Dillon 650.
I could load 100 in 10 minutes on my Dillon 550.

A good press isn't cheap, but if you see yourself shooting for a few years, it will more than pay for itself.

To get your prices down, you have to buy in BULK! I buy 20,000 primers at a time from Powder Valley... 10,000 would be my minimum. Add 8 pounds of powder too.

I also shoot Bear Creek moly bullets, 147grainers. I get them for $71 or so per 1000. I feel they are every bit as accurate as the jacketed bullets I used previously, Montang Gold or Precision Delta.

5 videos of 10 minutes each. Shows how easy it is to do. Watching these, I ordered my 550B that same day.
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WTF?! How a cheap can an old, the old fart get?!
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Old 10-02-2012, 16:31   #25
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Originally Posted by F106 Fan View Post
A popular choice is the Lee Classic Turret (200 rounds/hour) from Kempf...
Compared the Kempf kit:
$222.90 kit @ Kempf
+$29.67 (Kempf shipping)
+$11.99 (Midway taper crimp)
+$3.00 (Midway special handling)
+$4.67 (Midway shipping)
=$272.23

Get it all from Midway w/ the 3 die and taper crimp, leaving out the FCD all together:
$233.58
+$20.90 (shipping)
=$254.48
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Old 10-02-2012, 16:38   #26
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Interesting.
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Old 10-02-2012, 16:41   #27
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Using Berry's 124 gr round nose, primers, and choice of powder, it cost me about $0.14 per round. If on sale the cheapest 9mm I can get is $0.18. At 500 rounds a week, you save about $20 per week. Assuming 26 weeks of shooting, you have $520 for start up of reloading equipment to break even. The second year you are that much ahead.

I use a LCT and can load about 50 rounds an hour. It was the least expensive way to start when I wasn't sure I wanted or could reload. The biggest single problem is finding low cost powder and primers due to additional fees to ship.
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Old 10-02-2012, 16:44   #28
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Compared the Kempf kit:....
stak- What are you doing over here in 'Reloading' lately?

k
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Old 10-02-2012, 16:48   #29
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oops

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Old 10-02-2012, 16:52   #30
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For the volume you are talking the Dillon 550 or 650 are the best choices. the Lee cast turret and single stages would be to slow.

Everyone in my IDPA club except one single marine reloads. At least 15 of them, me included reload 9mm. I am currently reloading 124 gr 9mm for $117 a K or $5.85 cents a box of 50. A quick look at Cabelas shows 123gr American eagle 50 pack for $15.99.

So yes it pays to reload. Now a note of caution the only way to get the price most of us have listed is to buy in bulk. SO if you buy your components in bulk, buy a 550 and the other stuff you need you are looking at around a grand upfront. The rate that you are shooting you would pay for your equipment in no time.
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Old 10-02-2012, 16:52   #31
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IFirst of all, I shoot mainly 9mm, is it really worth buying the equipment and supplies?
Yes it is worth it. You'll go into it intending only to load 9mm, but you'll end up loading for other calibers. Once you make the initial investment in equipment, consumables for a single caliber, adding calibers is a matter of buying dies.

There is also the indescribable quasi-mad-scientist satisfaction from shooting your own handloads.

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Bulk prices aren't bad but can anyone give me a ballpark as to how much I might save?
http://www.handloads.com/calc/loadingCosts.asp

Input your local prices for powder & primer. Search for your desired projectile via an online vendor. Use the Hodgdon Reloading Data center to estimate your charge weight. What projectile do you want to use? FMJ, Copper Plated, Lead (hard cast)?

I input the cost of components used for my current batch of 9mm.
$0.081 per round

$4.07 per 50

$81.39 per 1,000
You can estimate your own reloading costs & compare them to the prices you pay for bulk ammo.
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Old 10-02-2012, 17:57   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SARDG View Post
stak- What are you doing over here in 'Reloading' lately?

k
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oops

Richard
You know how I love numbers and spreadsheets!

LOL

I've been lurking a long time and decided it is about time to start my next hobby.

-Mike
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Old 10-02-2012, 20:29   #33
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...I've been lurking a long time and decided it is about time to start my next hobby.

-Mike
Wanna buy a 650??










j/k - what's not to luv about my 650?
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Old 10-02-2012, 21:14   #34
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Are you going to get a 1050?

If I were a couple thousand miles closer I would probably take you up on it.
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Wanna buy a 650??










j/k - what's not to luv about my 650?
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Old 10-02-2012, 21:37   #35
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Thanks again you guys are really helpin me out. I plan on loading FMJ, either 115 or 124. Being that the cold is coming soon, shooting will drastically slow down so I should be able to save up the cash to get started soon. I'm thinking the Dillon 550 is the way to go. One question, how many of you check every completed round with a caliper or gauge? I know it's important but damn! The YouTube link was great by the way.
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Old 10-02-2012, 21:57   #36
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Are you going to get a 1050?
1050? Not right away though - I'm actually looking for a larger house, in which case I'd likely keep the 650, too.

Richard and unclebob say I should get a 1050 sometime, so who am I to argue...
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Old 10-02-2012, 22:11   #37
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Thanks again you guys are really helpin me out. I plan on loading FMJ, either 115 or 124. Being that the cold is coming soon, shooting will drastically slow down so I should be able to save up the cash to get started soon. I'm thinking the Dillon 550 is the way to go. One question, how many of you check every completed round with a caliper or gauge? I know it's important but damn! The YouTube link was great by the way.
Just make sure you have your load developed and are confident it works perfectly for you - before the winter chill sets in and you load 10,000 rounds.

I try to case gauge every round I'll use in an important match (after they are all loaded) - but sometimes just can't get a Round Tuit and it doesn't get done. I'll pull an occassional completed cartridge out of the bin as I'm going along and measure the OAL and crimp, and I'll pull an occassional case off the press and measure the powder drop on a digital scale. All this probably explains why my production rate doesn't near approach the advertised rate of the press.
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Old 10-02-2012, 22:12   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dakota Carpenter View Post
Thanks again you guys are really helpin me out. I plan on loading FMJ, either 115 or 124. Being that the cold is coming soon, shooting will drastically slow down so I should be able to save up the cash to get started soon. I'm thinking the Dillon 550 is the way to go. One question, how many of you check every completed round with a caliper or gauge? I know it's important but damn! The YouTube link was great by the way.
The 550 will be an excellent choice. You can start with the basic machine and add the strong mount stuff later. It's nice to get the press up higher but it isn't compelling. The strong mounts, bullet tray and output bin add about $120 of deferrable costs. I still don't use the roller handles...

The nice thing about Dillon is that the products are guaranteed FOREVER and the warranty transfers. That's why the stuff sells for a premium on the used market.

I check the first few rounds when I start making a batch to be certain my bullet seating die is correct. This is important when loading cast lead bullets because the bullet lube fouls the die and bullets tend to load short. Not a problem with FMJ. For cast bullets, it might be worth checking one every hundred or so. Maybe every time the primer tube needs to be filled.

I also run a few through a case gauge to be certain the resizing die and taper crimp die are doing their jobs.

I check several charges before I start loading and I check again every few hundred rounds if I think about it.

These are machines; once they are properly adjusted, consistency should be pretty automatic.

Now, competitive shooters take a different view and they will drop every match round in the chamber (barrel removed, of course) just to be absolutely certain they don't have a failure during an event. Practice rounds are seldom checked.

Richard
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Old 10-02-2012, 22:16   #39
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If you can afford to buy all your components in bulk and have a cheap supply of brass, you can reload 9mm for a little more than half the cost of buying it at Wal-Mart.

By bulk, I mean ordering primers by at least the case (5k) if not multiple cases, preferably combined with powder (4lb, 8lb, etc.) so you get them on one hazmat charge, and bullets at least 2-3k at a time.

If you buy your supplies 1lb of powder, 100 bullets, and a few hundred primers at a time at Bass Pro or Gander Mountain, you probably won't save any $ over Wal-Mart. If you buy new brass there too, you may actually spend more making your first reloads than buying factory ammo.

Hopefully, you planned ahead and have been saving your used brass for some time. I saved my brass for years, knowing that I wanted to get into reloading eventually.
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Old 10-02-2012, 22:41   #40
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I have thousands and thousands of rounds saved that should last me a while. For buying supplies in bulk, what are some good sites to order from? I've used Midway USA for other things and I see they advertise reloading supplies.
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