[WestTNGlockster]

Aiight, I am new here, and just did the .25 cent trigger polish on a G27 Gen2.5 I bought last week.

No doubt Glocks need just a little lube, but it struck my mind that graphite would be the perfect lube for all the stuff I polished in there. Dry, slicker than owl****, and it dosen't attract dust, lint, cigarette smoke, herpes, fat chicks with no teeth, or any of the other things we dread when we CCW a Glock.

To me it seems like the perfect lubricant for this little machine, I would like to see what y'all think.

[janice6]

Used a lot of molybdenum disulfide powder In special manufacturing systems and it's the best, but expensive (~ $50 Lb.). My Revolver mfgr recommends it too.

Reloaders sell it.

BUT, either one will be messy.

[Glockrunner]

Messy stuff (as a locksmith I know) and attracts moisture. Then attracts dirt.

After repinning one lock that contained Graphite you should see the black hands. I wouldn't want that next to my skin everyday in this climate and certainly not around my clothing.

I think I'll stick with the manufactures idea of lubing, a very light coat of oil. It stays where you place it, gaphite won't do that either.

[cciman]

There are dry film lubes avail, silicone also.

leftover motor oil (even used, if you don't mind the stains), works great and is free, and unlimited if you still change your own oil. Otherwise, a quart of cheap generic API motor oil will last you a lifetime, and you can hand it down to your grandkids for gun oil.

[GlockFanWA]

On my Glocks I use Prolix for cleaning and lubrication needs.

[WayaX]

Graphite is generally a no-no with firearms. While I don't think it would affect GLOCK, graphite + aluminum is very bad. I would stay away from it just because I see no reason to treat any gun special. Regular gun lube products like Slip, Gunzilla, and Weapon Shield all work fine. No need to re-invent the wheel.

[WestTNGlockster]

Thanks guys, I didn't think about how graphite likes to travel and get all over everything.
After the .25 cent polish job, just a tiny dot of CLP on the connector and firing pin safety plunger has it running really smooth.

[Angry Fist]

One drop of CLP on my fingertip, dab on needed areas.

[banger]

Glockrunner is correct.

The scientific term is hydroscopic, that is the trait of attracting moisture from the humidity in the air and holding it.

Not a good thing for firearms.

[ilgunguygt]

Originally Posted by banger

Glockrunner is correct.

The scientific term is hydroscopic, that is the trait of attracting moisture from the humidity in the air and holding it.

Not a good thing for firearms.

Actually, the term is hygroscopic. Brake fluid is the same.

[banger]

Originally Posted by ilgunguygt

Actually, the term is hygroscopic. Brake fluid is the same.

Absolutely correct.

My mistake, actually it shows the limits of spell check.

[Jim S.]

When I shoot my Glocks I oil them as the factory recommends.
When I carry my Glocks I use the smallest drop on the connector and everything else is dry.
I figure that while carrying a Glock it is only gonna shoot as many rounds as I carry.
14 in the gun and 12 in the spare mag.
It can fire 26 rounds dry and not even phase it. I've seen the torture tests.
Doesn't attract lint/ dirt/ or anything else.
Doesn't smell like oil.
Stays clean longer. A can of air blows off the dust because it doesn't stick to anything.

[Angry Fist]

Quote: Torture tests don't prove anything. Pour sand down my asscrack, and I'll jam up and fail to extract.

[Jim S.]

Originally Posted by Angry Fist

Quote: Torture tests don't prove anything.

That may or may not be true.
I doubt there was much oil on a Glock that went through some of the stuff that the one in the torture test did.
I think I would be willing to say that a Glock can shoot way more than two magazines without any lube in it.
Besides there isn't any sand or any other crap other than dead skin and lint on my Glock when I carry it.

[Angry Fist]

Same here.

[ArrowJ]

I read you are supposed to leave the copper stuff from the factory on it. I do not understand that as it will eventually go away. If it is so important why do they not sell it? Or maybe they do?


http://highcaliberguns.com
http://thesitterdowners.com

[DWARREN123]

Graphite is an abrasive so be careful in its use. I use oil as per the manual. A dry lube may work but will not travel like a oil will.

[digilo]

Tungsten Disulfide powder, (WS2) is great for a dry lube, it embeds much like moly, but its finer.

I found it on amazon for $10 per 1 oz bottle. I bought a 4 oz bottle 3 years ago that is still half full, and thats after putting some in my truck rearend, the motor oil, and the front axles. I use it on my AKs and Glocks, as oil seems to attract dirt and grit, and these 2 firearms are built with tolerances to let debris work itself out of the actions, so dry lube would seem to be ideal for these.

WS2 is applied with a towel or cloth, or brush, and can be burnished into the metal. The more pressure it's applied with, the better, as it embeds like moly. Then wipe off the excess. I've done this old G23 with it, on the slide rails, the trigger bar and connector, the outside of the barrel and inside of the slide, the safety plunger- I even compressed the recoil spring and applied it to the guide rod, and I use it on the firing pin spring. It really kills friction, but stays dry.

(I've shown a couple of friends the difference by rubbing 2 screwdriver handles together dry, then with oil, then with WS2- oil just doesn't compare)

It will turn your fingers silver, however, unless the excess is wiped off, and it gets EVERYWHERE, but once you get the hang of working with it, you'll use it everywhere. It mixes with grease, too. I mixed some with some synthetic Mobil grease from the plant (I worked at the Mobil Blending & Packaging plant here in Beaumont) and that was what I used when I rebuilt the front end on my Ranger.

I know I probably sound like a rep or plant or something but I'm not, just a convinced customer, and I think if some of you tried it, you'd be convinced too.

[dkf]

I have had some moly paste for my airguns for several years. I figure I would try some on the rails of my Glock. Put a tiny bit on the top and underside of the rails on the frame. I surprised how smooth it felt. I think I will continue to use it and see how it goes. It have a 60%+ Molybdenum disulphide content. Not real thick either, like white lithium grease.