I have a variety of methods here at the house.
Norton Waterstones.... 220/1000 grit...1000/8000 grit, and a 4000 grit.
They can put a great edge on your knives, about the biggest drawback is they can remove a lot of material...so you have to be careful.
For me, holding a certain angle(s) on a knife....pass after pass is rather difficult...and if allowed to continue... can actually dull a blade edge versus sharpening it.
SO....I also have an Edge Pro Apex sharpener to keep me on track in regards to blade angle.
The Edge Pro is expensive...but worth it when it comes to sharpening pricey knives. Last thing I want to do is ruin the edge on a good knife.
Some people will use sharpening paper wheels or emery paper for sharpening convex edges. I have used paper...but since getting the aforementioned sharpeners use it very little.
Those of us who have ever tried freehand sharpening know what kind of skill it takes to keep that ridiculously even bevel by hand.
About the only other system out there that I'm familiar with is the Lansky system. Worked but not great IMHO. I do believe that using oil does not help in getting a good edge. It's been stated that the oil actually holds metal shavings to the stone...instead of rinsing them away.
Not sure if that's true or not...but ever since going to water stones...my edges are much better.
There is a TON of information out there on sharpening. The toughest "knives" I have tried to sharpen is my straight razors... I had Shapton ceramic stones here...and despite day's/months of honing with pastes....leather strops...and so on....decided this is a job for a honemeister.
Good luck finding what works for you.