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Old 05-11-2012, 23:40   #1
wallacefan
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Newbie

took the jump ordered a RCBS rock chucker kit
should be here next week
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Old 05-12-2012, 00:41   #2
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Reloading
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Old 05-12-2012, 07:06   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallacefan View Post
took the jump ordered a RCBS rock chucker kit
should be here next week
And your going to load????
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Old 05-12-2012, 08:19   #4
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I'm guessing pistol and / or rifle.
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:41   #5
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Quote:
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I'm guessing pistol and / or rifle.
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Old 05-12-2012, 13:06   #6
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9mm pistol and 7.62x39 rifle
7.62x54r rifle and 5.56 nato
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Old 05-12-2012, 13:14   #7
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Sometimes it's hard being right all the time.
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Old 05-12-2012, 13:15   #8
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No questions yet, wallacefan?
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Old 05-12-2012, 13:22   #9
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Sometimes it's hard being right all the time.

Especially when you're only right about the blatantly obvious.


Jack
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Old 05-12-2012, 13:24   #10
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No questions yet, wallacefan?
There were two earlier threads by wallacefan on 5/9. One about powder and another about dies.

Richard
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Old 05-12-2012, 13:24   #11
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Especially when you're only right about the blatantly obvious.


Jack
Like when we talked about getting you euthanized?
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Old 05-12-2012, 13:30   #12
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I'll bet you had to Google the meaning of euthanized.

(Or you overheard a conversation when Nicole asked her friends the best way to solve her domestic problem.)


Jack
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A PACIFIST is someone who won't raise their hands to defend themselves...
A COWARD is someone who won't raise their hands to defend someone else.
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Old 05-12-2012, 14:00   #13
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My money is on jacketed bullet swaging.
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Old 05-12-2012, 14:21   #14
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The R/C is a great single stage.

BTW, only on GTR could a thread started on presses degenerate to the practice of mercy killing.
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Old 05-12-2012, 19:19   #15
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You guys are on a roll today. Don't worry wallacefan when it comes to reloading they will never steer you wrong.
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Old 05-12-2012, 20:14   #16
wallacefan
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thanx guys when i get my stuff i will have questions

i got the rcbs supreme kit
lyman twin turbo tumbler
lyman and speer manual
pocket primer cleaner
flash hole deburing tool
uniflow micrometer adjuster
bullet puller
extra tray
ammo boxes assorted
carbide 9mm dies to start
what am i missing except brass powder and bullets
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Old 05-12-2012, 21:34   #17
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For your semi-auto rifles, the brass will grow in length when you resize it. As a result, you need two things: case gauges for each caliber and some kind of a case trimmer.

Just to get calibrated, go to Brownells.com and search for 'case trimmer'. There are quite a few and the prices are all over the map.

Personally, I use the Hornady Case Prep Station but there is no need to get that carried away. In fact, I'm kind of surprised I bought one:
http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pi...se-Prep-Center

It's a nice unit but it isn't, in my opinion, nearly as precise as the Forster stuff. However, for bulk loading of .223, perhaps absolute precision just isn't required.

The case gauge will show you whether the cartridge headspacing is correct. Headspace is the distance between the midpoint of the shoulder (up the slope) to the base. In other words, it helps you get the resizing die adjusted. It's nice to know that the case is properly resized.

The case gauge will also show when a case needs to be trimmed. Resize first and then check with the case gauge.

http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pi...son-Case-Gauge

I have case gauges for my pistol cartridges as well: 9mm and .45 ACP. It makes me more confident that my reloads will chamber.

If your dies are properly built, they will automatically produce minimum headspacing when adjusted all the way down. This makes the argument that a case gauge just isn't necessary. I would rather have them.

You will also need a set of calipers. I don't care if they are dial or digital except... I bought a couple of inexpensive digital calipers from Harbor Freight and they get the wrong answer. I need the right answer so I am back to using my Craftsman dial calipers. Now, the difference was only 0.001" and for measuring OAL, who cares? But when I wanted bullet diameter, the digital calipers came up short. Buy a decent set. They will be around for a very long time.

A suggestion for your 9mm reloading: Tumble and reload. Don't bother cleaning out the primer pocket, don't bother trimming, do check the loaded rounds in your chamber (with the barrel out of the gun), they should go 'kerplunk' when you drop them in. They should then rotate easily on the case mouth only. The bullet should not drag on the rifling.

Since you have carbide dies for 9mm, lubing isn't strictly necessary. However... Buy some Hornady One Shot lube anyway. Dump all the cases in a plastic box (one layer thick) and squirt them lightly with the lube. I shake up the box to spread the lube and after about a minute, I reload them. Resizing will go much easier with a little lube. Don't bother to clean it off. If you want to clean it off, tumble the loaded rounds.

Don't overthink the 9mm stuff. Just load it! Be very careful of the powder charge. Everyone around here is going to recommend you start with Unique. That's ok but you will find that you can't hold +- 0.2 gr. As long as your not up near max, it really won't matter much. If you are too close to min, your slide might not cycle. Just keep it in the middle of the road. Throw a lot of charges just to get into a pattern. Weigh them and see how consistent you can get.

If you were using a 115 gr FMJ, the charge for Unique (according to Speer #14) would be 5.6 gr minimum to 6.3 gr maximum. It looks like the 5.6 gr charge would make IDPA power factor so that's where I would start. I might work up toward 6.0 gr but, with Unique, I might stop at loads 0.2 gr away from max.

There are a lot of other powders but most everyone around here likes the safety in using a slow powder. Especially for new reloaders.

You can skip the case trimmer until you start loading rifle. I would still get a case gauge for the 9mm even though your chamber is the ultimate authority. In theory, if a round fits the case gauge, it should fit any gun around. In theory...

Richard
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Last edited by F106 Fan; 05-12-2012 at 21:37..
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Old 05-12-2012, 21:39   #18
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MUCH shorter answer for 9mm:
  1. case gauge
  2. dial calipers
  3. Hornady One Shot lube
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Old 05-13-2012, 07:02   #19
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It is worth spending quite a bit of time with the first couple of hundred pages of Speer #14. There is a lot of good information about the process of reloading along with sections on troubleshooting. I would probably skip over the chapter on black powder but that's just because I don't have any black powder guns.

Oh, and there will be a test later...

Richard
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Old 05-13-2012, 08:56   #20
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Much shorter answer for 9mm :

1. Calipers any kind for rifle and pistol.
2. Barrel from your gun for checking cartridge fit and functioning.
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Last edited by ColoCG; 05-13-2012 at 09:07..
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:04   #21
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For Rifle:

1. Calipers can be used with pistol also.
2. Hornady One Shot or other case lube for resizing.
3.Case trimmer of some kind.
4.Chamfer and deburring tool for case necks after trimming.
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:08   #22
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You may also run across some 9mm brass that has a crimped primer pocket. You will need something to remove the crimp.

There are two basic methods: use a chamfer tool and remove the metal or use something to swage the pocket while not removing metal.

Google for 'removing crimp from' and you will get a bunch of videos.

Here are the two best ways of doing it:
http://www.dillonprecision.com/conte...archVar=swager

Richard
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:17   #23
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When you get to 5.56mm or .223, you can just about bet that any brass you pick up will have a crimped primer pocket. If you decide to solve this problem for 9mm, you might want to be thinking about rifle as well.

Seriously, the Dillon swager is a very nice way to get it done. I don't have one (yet!) but there are a lot of videos about it and everyone seems quite positive.

The absolute slowest way on the planet to swage the primer pocket is with the RCBS Primer Pocket Swager:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/235...swager-combo-2

Nevertheless, it works.

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Old 05-13-2012, 10:28   #24
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Dial calipers, or digital calipers if you like changing batteries. Spare batteries if you go digital.

Rifle cartridges need trimming, (normally after sizing). So a case trimmer of some sort. Trimming leaves sharp edges inside and out on the case mouths. They should be chamfered slightly on the inside and can be deburred slightly on the outside edge. So some some sort of case mouth chamfering and deburring tool.

I've loaded a lot of 7.62x39. It is not very economical but is rewarding in accuracy. Federal brass is soft and weak. Remington small primer brass is the strongest but has been replaced with large primer cases that I haven't tried. Winchester brass is most common but is a bit weak, not as soft as Federal though. Lapua brass cost twice as much as Winchester but should last twice as long.

Avoid slamfires in autoloading rifles. Use CCI / Blount #34 "mil spec" primers or Remington 9 1/2 primers.

The Speer manual has some high end loads that may be over pressure and are certain to shorten case life. Mainly their 123 grain bullet A1680 and RL-7 load data I believe. The current load data from Accurate Powder and Alliant are right on though. Both top out at 27.0 grains.

Good powders for 7.62x39 are,

IMR-4198 (use H4198 load data for current production IMR-4198 powder!)

H4198

A1680

A possible powder is IMR-4227. Current Hodgdon / IMR load data is not correct. Use H4227 load data from other sources. IMR-4227 doesn't always produce enough gas to cycle autoloading rifles, even when used with H4227 load data. It works fine in bolt action and single shot rifles. Sometimes in autoloaders, but not always. a top load of IMR-4227 with a 123 grain bullet and a large rifle primer is around 22.5. I have loaded 23.0 grains without pressure signs, but some rifles still won't cycle due to the low gas level produced and case life may be shortened.

The 150 grain bullets can be accurate but aren't going fast enough to be as effective as the 123 grain bullets for hunting.

A1680 is a ball powder and is easy to measure. H4198 / IMR-4198 and RL-7 are extruded powders and fill the case to near compressed or slightly compressed loads. IMR-4227 is extruded but leaves space in the case for easy handling and loading. A1680 is the easiest powder to load in 7.62x39. Other powders do not work as well as these powders in 7.62x39.


Many 7.62x39 dies include two expanders. One for .308" bullets and one for .311" bullets. Even when using .311" bullets the .311" expander is often too large and expands the 7.62x39 case mouth too much. Many .311" and .310" bullets will seat fine with the .308" expander in 7.62x39. If not, try polishing the larger expander to a smaller diameter. Or try a different brand of bullets that are the right diameter and are tapered enough to work with the .308" expander. Your .311" expander may work as-is though. If the bullets don't "fall" through and the case mouth, it should be alright.
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