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Old 04-18-2012, 14:01   #21
mikeg1005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TN.Frank View Post
Stock for a Full Size 45acp is 16lbs and Commander size is 18lbs. I'm running a 20lb without issue with full power ball ammo. I guess it all depends on what kind of ammo you shoot. I also got a 12lb with my WC spring kit, no idea what I'd use something that light for.LOL.
For me... switching to a lighter spring made it easier to get back on target faster... it was VERY noticeable when shooting steel(USPSA matches)

The lighter spring changes the characteristics of the recoil and also how the gun feels when it snaps back into battery.

I tried a 12lb spring in my 45acp before(5" gun) and it had some issues getting back into battery from slide lock... 14lb works great in it though.

Mike.

Last edited by mikeg1005; 04-18-2012 at 14:02..
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Old 04-18-2012, 14:09   #22
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On the Wolff web site they always recommend a couple extra pound recoil spring to help stop slide to frame batter. I guess with the right ammo though a lighter spring would be ok. Their "rule of thumb" is that the brass should land between 3 and 6 feet away from you, any less and you lighten up the spring, any more and you go heavier. My PX4 Storm 40cal, with factory spring would throw cheap WWB brass 12 feet but I guess it was ok because it was totally stock. Still, 12 feet, just didn't seem right.
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Old 04-18-2012, 14:30   #23
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I remember when I bought my first Gov't length 1911. I asked the salesman at the shop to show me how to dissassemble it. We had to wait for the owner to come back from lunch so he could show me.

I dissassembled my first Glock from the instruction manual, did my own $0.25 trigger job from a website DIY and my then 9 year old son could detail strip it and put it back together.

I have yet attempted to detail strip a 1911. The whole thing seems as frustrating as trying to put the 10/22 safety back in the trigger housing.
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Old 04-18-2012, 14:34   #24
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Originally Posted by mikeg1005 View Post
Damn, whats up with you guys and your heavy recoil springs for the 40sw 1911s?

Granted I run 172ish pf ammo in my 1911s... 14lb for the 45acp and 12.5lb for the 40sw(STI 2011 and SA Loaded) feels much better than factory springs.


Mike.
Gamers run lighter springs for sure but you have to realize that's the ~ recommended weight for a full size .40.

Just playing the safe side on not beating up my frame. YMMV.
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Old 04-18-2012, 14:38   #25
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Originally Posted by LA_357SIG View Post
I have yet attempted to detail strip a 1911. The whole thing seems as frustrating as trying to put the 10/22 safety back in the trigger housing.
Not really that hard at all if you take it a piece at a time.
Start with the Slide Assembly. Push in on the firing pin and then carefully push down on the Firing Pin Stop. Be careful because the firing pin is under spring pressure. Once the FPS is out you can dump the firing pin and spring out of the slide. Next, carefully push back on the extractor at the breach end of the slide and it should push back enough so you can grab it and remove it. Not your slide is totally apart. Piece of cake.
The Frame is a bit harder but not much. There's a lot of great YouTube vids on how to take apart and reassemble a 1911.

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Last edited by TN.Frank; 04-18-2012 at 14:39..
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Old 04-18-2012, 15:11   #26
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1. If you're a passenger, don't touch the radio.

2. If it ain't your car, don't lean on it.

3. If it ain't your gun, don't $%^& with it.
Ditto, It's amazing how little respect some people have for other people's cars. I don't care if you set coffee mug's on your own car, DO NOT set things on my car.

edit: And messing with people's guns w/o permission seems similarly rude to me, sorry op

Last edited by Just_plinking; 04-18-2012 at 15:14..
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Old 04-18-2012, 19:56   #27
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Even better, next time he wants to run his mouth, the 1911 is it's own tool kit. Detail strip it down to the safety plungers and hammer strut pin. You can usually accomplish it while they're doin a #2. I plan to do it to my buddy, next time I'm around his colt defender unsupervised. He likes to trash talk.

Only hard part is getting the grips off. I'd leave them alone.
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Old 04-18-2012, 20:19   #28
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Originally Posted by mikeg1005 View Post
Why don't you stop being a jackass and help your friend out?
If you think about it, the OP really is helping his friend out.
How long does it normally take new or novice shooters to truly understand their firearms?
As long as he doesnt go home while his friends gun is in parts, he really is helping him.
It's along the lines of if you teach a man to fish...
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Old 04-18-2012, 21:16   #29
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If you think about it, the OP really is helping his friend out.
How long does it normally take new or novice shooters to truly understand their firearms?
As long as he doesnt go home while his friends gun is in parts, he really is helping him.
It's along the lines of if you teach a man to fish...
It's more along the lines of..."If you teach a man how to fish..first show him how to not to 'idiot scratch' his 1911..."
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Old 04-19-2012, 17:51   #30
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It may not be hard, but calling it one of the simplest guns in the world is just a blatant lie. Every single one of the modern combat guns(Glock, Sig, CZ, HK, M&P, Steyr, XD, etc) is easier to assemble/disassemble. As far as handguns go it has more part than most others. It usually has a tighter overall fit as well. Tighter pieces are generally harder to get back in place.
I am a Sig, S&W , glock H&K and colt armorer , the Colt is by far the easiest, ever try and get the sear in a Sig 229, or the trigger and bar in a 220?
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Old 04-19-2012, 19:58   #31
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Back in the late 70's, one of our shooters was signing his favorite Gold Cup out of the gun room for a local match. He laid it on my desk and went to the gun board to sign it out to himself. While his back was turned, I asked if I could handle it. Before he could turn around, I swept a desk stapler off onto the floor where it landed with a clattering sound about what you'd expect a 1911 to make if it fell.

The look on his face when he finally got enough composure to turn around was priceless...
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Old 04-19-2012, 21:27   #32
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I am a Sig, S&W , glock H&K and colt armorer , the Colt is by far the easiest, ever try and get the sear in a Sig 229, or the trigger and bar in a 220?
The 1911 has basically 5 parts in it's fire control set up. Trigger, Disconnector, Sear, Hammer(w/strut but that counts as one IMHO) and Main Spring Housing(which I also count as one even though technically it's 5 but it IS one Unit) If that's not simple I don't know what is.
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Old 04-20-2012, 00:40   #33
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Back in the late 70's, one of our shooters was signing his favorite Gold Cup out of the gun room for a local match. He laid it on my desk and went to the gun board to sign it out to himself. While his back was turned, I asked if I could handle it. Before he could turn around, I swept a desk stapler off onto the floor where it landed with a clattering sound about what you'd expect a 1911 to make if it fell.

The look on his face when he finally got enough composure to turn around was priceless...
That's great.
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Old 04-20-2012, 02:14   #34
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On the Wolff web site they always recommend a couple extra pound recoil spring to help stop slide to frame batter.
A myth that was started and perpetrated by people who sell springs and shock buffs.

The "recoil" spring's purpose is returning the slide...not buffering slide to frame impact. That it does do that is incidental.

Quick story:

A guy walks into the gun shop and asks about a 22 pound spring for his LW Commander. When asked why so heavy, he gave the standard "frame battering" answer. He didn't believe the explanation, so I invited him to the local range where he was a member to see a demonstration in which I'd fire a LW Commander without a spring. He reckoned that it would destroy the frame in 50 rounds or less.

On the big day, I fired 49 rounds without a spring. No damage. 49 more. Still no damage. When a third time produced no damage, he handed me a magazine full of Remington 185-grain +P and guaranteed that would do the trick. When it didn't, he mumbled something about my having set up my pistol in a special way and left.

Note:

Anyone who would like to try this...use a full-length guide rod and plug. The stub-type rod will get all cattywampus and damage the gun. The FLGR and plug keeps everything tracking straight. I installed one in the Commander for the demo.
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Old 04-20-2012, 06:52   #35
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Originally Posted by ronin.45 View Post
It may not be hard, but calling it one of the simplest guns in the world is just a blatant lie. Every single one of the modern combat guns(Glock, Sig, CZ, HK, M&P, Steyr, XD, etc) is easier to assemble/disassemble. As far as handguns go it has more part than most others. It usually has a tighter overall fit as well. Tighter pieces are generally harder to get back in place.
Right, Glock is the clear winner here.
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:53   #36
mikeg1005
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A myth that was started and perpetrated by people who sell springs and shock buffs.

The "recoil" spring's purpose is returning the slide...not buffering slide to frame impact. That it does do that is incidental.
+1

The problem with lighter springs is proper function of feeding the next round... not how hard it hits the frame. The slide still hits the frame, regardless how heavy of a spring you use... that is how the gun is designed to stop the slide.

Another proof that it doesn't destroy the gun is the amount of guys that shoot 100,000s of rounds through their guns with lightened springs.

Mike.

Last edited by mikeg1005; 04-20-2012 at 08:55..
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Old 04-20-2012, 09:38   #37
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Doesn't the slide hit the guide rod, not the frame? I mean the guide rod is up against the barrel lugs and the lower part of the slide hits the guide rod, right.
One thing the recoil spring does do it control slide velociety and how far you brass will fly. Personally I don't like to have to look over a one mile radius for brass,LOL. Rather have a bit heavier spring and keep my brass close where I can hopefully find it.
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Old 04-20-2012, 10:18   #38
mikeg1005
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The slide hits the guide rod, which sits on the part of the frame in front of the barrel lugs... It doesn't contract the actual barrel lugs... so the guide rod is simply the middle piece, the force is still transfered into the frame.

Yes its slows down the velocity slightly, but not enough to make any significant difference to how hard it actually hits. Try it sometime, put a spent case in the chamber then manaully cycle the slide, the difference between ejecting the brass 4 feet and 8 feet isn't much more force.

You do bring up a point about flying brass... Luckily I shoot indoors at my club where I can sweep it all up, and outdoor matches = brass whoring afterwards.

MIke.

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Old 04-20-2012, 10:22   #39
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Taking apart someones new 1911 as a prank, could be unhealthy if done to the wrong person.

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Old 04-20-2012, 11:03   #40
TN.Frank
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I just hope this guy's buddy doesn't buy a new car any time soon. That'd be awful to come outside to see your new car in parts and pieces all over the driveway.
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