I think I've decided on a press to begin. - Page 3

Colorado4Wheel · 03-23-2012, 21:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by LSglock89

Basically everything I got...just building my reloading bench so I have something to mount it all to.

What is the yellow thing and the small red box below it?

LSglock89 · 03-23-2012, 22:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Colorado4Wheel

What is the yellow thing and the small red box below it?

I didn't get the yellow box..but its a reloading scale...the small red box is probably an ammo storage box, the round holder on top is the auto disk riser to put on the pro disk auto measurer.

dkf · 03-23-2012, 22:32

The yellow box looks like an MTM scale. Be careful with the MTM I have read too many posts about them shifting or not being accurate. The reason I went with the Dillon Eliminator.

LSglock89 · 03-23-2012, 22:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by dkf

The yellow box looks like an MTM scale. Be careful with the MTM I have read too many posts about them shifting or not being accurate. The reason I went with the Dillon Eliminator.

I cheaped out on my scaled too...went with the Frankford Arsenal scale on Amazon...it had a solid 4 star review. I'll make sure to calibrate it every time I use it until I can pony up some more cash.

emtjr928 · 03-24-2012, 06:45

I am a measure twice cut once kinda guy, so I'll make several measurements and work on the conservative side of things to start. I do have some 40 s&w brass I have saved but not much. Hopefully I can make some local connections on free or real cheap brass. lol

blastfact · 03-24-2012, 10:47

Like my LCT.

Now get you some check weight for your scale. Does not matter what scale you use. Use check weights! Calipers, tumbler, bench and you will be ready to go.

PCJim · 03-24-2012, 16:50

Gents, while I have nothing against a good digital scale, the less expensive scales are known for their unreliability. Getting one worth what you paid for it is honestly, a crap shoot. I have personal experience with an inexpensive digital scale that was sold by MidwayUSA, and trust me, it was a pure waste of good money.

Consider that the powder charge is unquestionably the most critical aspect of reloading. You are trusting an inexpensive scale to this aspect, and an over charge (or under charge for that matter) can have disasterous consequences. Please PLEASE be sure that your scale is giving you correct, accurate readings.

malleable · 03-24-2012, 17:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by PCJim

Gents, while I have nothing against a good digital scale, the less expensive scales are known for their unreliability. Getting one worth what you paid for it is honestly, a crap shoot. I have personal experience with an inexpensive digital scale that was sold by MidwayUSA, and trust me, it was a pure waste of good money.

Consider that the powder charge is unquestionably the most critical aspect of reloading. You are trusting an inexpensive scale to this aspect, and an over charge (or under charge for that matter) can have disasterous consequences. Please PLEASE be sure that your scale is giving you correct, accurate readings.

What scale would you personally have confidence in and recommend?

F106 Fan · 03-24-2012, 18:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by malleable

What scale would you personally have confidence in and recommend?

Dillon Eliminator or Dillon D-Terminator:

http://www.dillonprecision.com/conte...earchVar=scale

But I would still use the RCBS Check Weights on the same Dillon web page.

Richard

PCJim · 03-24-2012, 21:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by malleable

What scale would you personally have confidence in and recommend?

I won't recommend or endorse any specific digital scale. Others have done so in this forum, so a search of the topic should bring up many threads in which they are discussed and debated.

I have relied primarily on a beam scale, an old Ohaus 5-0-5 that was inherited back in the early 80's. I did give a cheap digital a trial, and found that it was simply unreliable.

I recently acquired a RCBS Chargemaster 1500 combo that I am using for my rifle rounds, but even with that combo unit that costs upwards of $300 new, I'm checking the throws on my trustworthy 5-0-5.

gwalchmai · 03-25-2012, 05:29

I agree on the sorryness of cheap digital scales. I also believe that the proper use of a beam scale is a skill every reloader should possess. After having tried a couple of low-end digitals I returned to my $40 beam balance and have every confidence in it.

Unless Q starts monkeying with the Universal Gravity Constant again, of course...

LSglock89 · 03-25-2012, 16:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by gwalchmai

I agree on the sorryness of cheap digital scales. I also believe that the proper use of a beam scale is a skill every reloader should possess. After having tried a couple of low-end digitals I returned to my $40 beam balance and have every confidence in it.

Unless Q starts monkeying with the Universal Gravity Constant again, of course...

Which balance beam do you have?

I may have to keep my low end digital scale for awhile unfortunately. I guess the only thing I can do is calibrate it with check weights everytime I use it.

-Posted via iPhone

Colorado4Wheel · 03-25-2012, 16:19

For 15 more then a cheap digital you can have a good beam. For 25ish you can have a Dillon or Redding. I would not buy the cheaper digital.

LSglock89 · 03-25-2012, 18:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Colorado4Wheel

For 15 more then a cheap digital you can have a good beam. For 25ish you can have a Dillon or Redding. I would not buy the cheaper digital.

Care to pick me out one on Amazon? I paid $29 for my digital and can return it still...

gwalchmai · 03-25-2012, 21:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by LSglock89

Which balance beam do you have?

I may have to keep my low end digital scale for awhile unfortunately. I guess the only thing I can do is calibrate it with check weights everytime I use it.

I have a Lyman Pro 500. I've used it for years and am very happy with it.

Colorado4Wheel · 03-25-2012, 22:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by LSglock89

Care to pick me out one on Amazon? I paid $29 for my digital and can return it still...

Midway has a RCBS for 50 and the Dillon is 60. You bought a really cheap digital but I was close enough.

LSglock89 · 03-25-2012, 22:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by Colorado4Wheel

Midway has a RCBS for 50 and the Dillon is 60. You bought a really cheap digital but I was close enough.

I went with the one I went with because it did have higher reviews. But I can still return it...so I may do that.

-Posted via iPhone

emtjr928 · 03-27-2012, 18:33

Got everything else today except for the pointy things. Maybe I'll have some test rounds by the weekend.

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emtjr928 · 04-06-2012, 14:54

Well, Finally got everything. Setting up the press on a temporary location till I bring the permanent bench inside to set up. Here are the settings so far after researching and using Lyman and Hod, Winchester info.
40 s&w
180 gn Xtreme plated flat nose.
4.1 gn W231 verified on a Dillon
Winchester SPP
OAL 1.125

should be 797 fps @ 23,800 psi

How does that sound for a starting point?

Thank you again for your input.
Ed

LSglock89 · 04-08-2012, 23:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by emtjr928

Well, Finally got everything. Setting up the press on a temporary location till I bring the permanent bench inside to set up. Here are the settings so far after researching and using Lyman and Hod, Winchester info.
40 s&w
180 gn Xtreme plated flat nose.
4.1 gn W231 verified on a Dillon
Winchester SPP
OAL 1.125

should be 797 fps @ 23,800 psi

How does that sound for a starting point?

Thank you again for your input.
Ed

Seems a little light to me. I have not shot my test loads yet, however I have loaded up 13 rounds of this recipe;

180gr FMJ Precision Delta
1.125" OAL
5.0gr Hodgdon Universal
CCI 500 SP

-Posted via iPhone

emtjr928 · 04-09-2012, 07:11

Ok,,, I guess my question really boils down to interpreting the available load data available. Depending which source one reads the load data can vary quite a bit even using the same bullet, powder and OAL. Is there an easier way to work up a load other than starting with the safest lowest ref. load and going from there?
By the way these 40 s&w round will be fired thru a gen4 G23 and a G27. Hopefully near minor PF for range practice.
Thanks

Colorado4Wheel · 04-09-2012, 09:27

There are no shortcuts. You have to take all the data, compare all the differences (they are never really the same) and then make a choice as too a good starting load.

On another note....

You won't be loading "near minor" with a .40 with out some extra effort on your part. You want to start at minumum and work it up to a nice safe midrange load that works the gun properly and creates enough pressure to actually burn properly. Minor .40 loads are not the place to start.

F106 Fan · 04-09-2012, 09:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by emtjr928

Ok,,, I guess my question really boils down to interpreting the available load data available. Depending which source one reads the load data can vary quite a bit even using the same bullet, powder and OAL. Is there an easier way to work up a load other than starting with the safest lowest ref. load and going from there?

First of all, no two sources will agree on much of anything. For the same load at the same OAL, they will have different velocities and, if they bother to state pressure, that data won't agree either. But do pay attention to the EXACT bullet type and OAL - these details matter when it comes to pressure.

About the only way you can really tell what is happening is with a chronograph. You WILL need to have access to one. Otherwise, this whole reloading business is just a 'shot in the dark' - pun intended.

It is said in the navigation classes: go to sea with 1 compass or 3 but never 2. Pick one book like Sierra or Hornady and stick with it. You can also average several books but, if you do that, what you have is the average of stuff that isn't right in the first place.

In the end, only a chronograph reading matters. That and staying away from max loads. And the idea that you can tell max loads by the appearance of the primer: forget about it! There's an article in Speer #14 starting on page 59 that basically says that by the time the primer flattens, you are WELL into overpressure.

You can check over at BrianEnos.com on the forums for REFERENCE data for 40 S&W loads. Whatever you do, don't take Internet load data for anything other than an idea. Check it against published data and see where it stacks up.

I like the Hodgdon site for load data. They have a lot of powders and give a range of loads. I don't like the Alliant site because they only give one charge and no range of loads.

Richard

emtjr928 · 04-10-2012, 15:16

Loaded up 10 test rounds as follows. Soft, pretty accurate and cycled my g23 gen 4 flawlessly. So far so good.

180 grn extreme RNFP plated bullet
WSP primer
W231 4.3 grn
OAL 1.125 +- .0005

emtjr928 · 05-09-2012, 09:02

For those interested, I thought I would post my impressions of my LCT after having loaded 9mm and 40 S&W.
Press set up was pretty straight forward.

Lee Safety Prime is a little fiddley. Definitely a learning curve on using it and the feel of a properly seated primer.

Found I like using a four die setup with FCD to add the taper. Seems to be a more consistent round.

Lee Pro Auto Disk throws very consistent charges with 231 and wsf. Although I have to use a chamber about 2 sizes larger to get the desired load.

Did purchase a Dillon Eliminator scale.

All in all I am quite happy for now. Shot a number of reloads last Saturday at an outdoor range. Both 9mm and 40 S&W rounds were more accurate than me with no issues.

ps. Got a Kimber 45 on friday, so I guess some more buying is in my not to distant future.