Want Your Ejection Problems Solved? Listen to Dave. - Page 6

High Altitude · 02-23-2012, 15:47

Bottom line, no one knows but glock and they aren't talking.

MinnMark · 02-29-2012, 19:30

I find it odd that this thread has already been buried down to page 10 of General Glocking. This is only my third or fourth post, and as such, I have little or no credibility, so take this as you wish. I have been shooting a late # Gen 3 G34 since last summer with zero problems, and a late # Gen 3 G19 since the fall. The G19 has been having erratic ejection issues something like 20-30% of the time (forehead, top of head, left, and occasional stovepipes) since new. I had been waiting for the dust to settle before looking into a permanent fix, but I believe that Dave Nowlin's fix is good enough to get me using the G19 from here forward.

I have taken it out 3 times in the past week and a half after doing the work, and out of 150 rounds, none have ejected in a position away from 4 o'clock. Almost all shells have been hitting the lane divider wall just past my right shoulder. I have specifically asked my shooting partner to pay attention. I had it apart to install a Ghost Rocket connector, extended mag release, and extended slide stop lever. I also did a 25 cent trigger job. While I had it apart, I took out the extractor, and smoothed both the upper and bottom face with a small jeweler's file about the size of a small emory board. I did not even remove enough material to remove all of the black, I just smoothed some of the irregular high spots that showed wear. I also polished the post, removing all the black, but no additional material. I left the claw alone, and left the stepped area alone also. It now shoots very well. I am very happy with the trigger feel by the way also. Thanks a lot Dave!

dusty_dragon · 03-01-2012, 03:03

dear minnmark:
so you did just polish the extractor top and bottom and filed the little knob on the inside of the extractor to give it more/longer contact to the spent brass while extracting it? or what else exactly did you do to solve your problem?

best regards
dusty

MinnMark · 03-01-2012, 05:39

dusty_dragon, I dragged a very small, fine, flat file across the top and bottom faces of the extractor very lightly. If you have shot your pistol a lot you should be able to see some brighter worn areas as shown in some photos in other threads. It is easily done because the surfaces are flat. I really just removed some of the blackened finish, but not close to all of the black finish on these surfaces. I just smoothed out some very small irregularities. I then used a Dremmel polishing wheel to remove the black surface finish from the small tapered cylindrical post. A Dremmel polishing wheel removes the black surface treatment very easily and does no damage. I would be afraid that using a file for this post would be difficult since it is a small curved surface and you might quickly remove too much material, or cause some flat spots on the cylinder. I did not do anything to the claw. I think by doing this, it just allows the extractor to move more freely and do it's job. The surface imperfections probably were causing unwanted friction preventing the spring tension on the extractor to push the claw in to grab the shell effectively every time.

Mark

dusty_dragon · 03-01-2012, 05:51

thanks a lot for the info

CVN76 · 03-01-2012, 15:11

Thanks for posting all this information, but wow, on two new guns: first I swap out the RSA, then I learn Glock has a redesigned the Gen 4 ejectors and I am getting that work done, and now today I read also the extractor needs work? I bought these thinking they would be the most reliable guns around; so far it has been a little frustrating.

Dave Nowlin · 03-01-2012, 18:01

They are fine once you work the bugs out. Many things today have bugs in them when you buy. Microsoft is constantly updating their software as it is never fully developed when released. Americans demand cheap prices in the marketplace. So we must buy mass produced guns. Some of them need just a little tuning to make them right, that is unless brass hitting you in the face is no big deal. Some have claimed it isn't a big deal and maybe the brass hitting them in the face is making improvements. Who knows?

RockyMtnG20 · 03-01-2012, 20:44

My buddy's new Gen 4 G22 is also plagued with erratic ejecting brass. Guess there isn't much chance of it fixing itself with more rounds going through it?

glocktecher · 03-01-2012, 21:15

Sitting here trying the best I can to figure out why Glock does not fix the problem coming out of the factory?

Guess I am just old fashioned and goofy that way.

Dave Nowlin · 03-01-2012, 22:47

How many Colt 1911s were sold that needed the extractor tuned. If you know much about 1911s you will realize a whole industry has grown up to make them what they should have been. An ex-boss of mine sent me home from the office with a 1911 he had bought from a Navy Chief Petty Officer in the past. My boss had been a Naval Aviator. He said the gun didn't function right and asked me to look at it and see if I could fix it. Actually all it needed was a new recoil spring. I did some checking while I had it and found it was built between World War I and World War II. The gun was much tighter fitted up than any new 1991 form Colt I had ever seen. I took it apart and the rails hadn't been peened or anything else extraordinary done to it. The sights on it were tiny and inadequate, but it still shot well. All the model 70 & 80 Colts I ever saw were very loose and needed some work to reach their potential. That market created companies like Kimber & the Custom Springfields, Wilsons, Ed Browns, Les Baers and so on.

lawboy · 03-02-2012, 09:42

While I am not seeing malfunctions with my Gen 3 G19, I do get occasional brass to the head and face. At present, I have the old ejector and LCI extractor.

The extractor drops freely when doing a detail strip and pressing on the striker block. That being the case, should I attempt filing the top and bottom of the extractor, since it already drops freely?

M&P15T · 03-02-2012, 09:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by lawboy

While I am not seeing malfunctions with my Gen 3 G19, I do get occasional brass to the head and face. At present, I have the old ejector and LCI extractor.

The extractor drops freely when doing a detail strip and pressing on the striker block. That being the case, should I attempt filing the top and bottom of the extractor, since it already drops freely?

Have you read this entire thread in detail? There's more to the modifications/polishing than just "filing the top and bottom" of your extractor.

lawboy · 03-02-2012, 09:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by M&P15T

Have you read this entire thread in detail? There's more to the modifications/polishing than just "filing the top and bottom" of your extractor.

I have, but I am trying to do one thing at a time and check the results after each mod. With the extractor falling freely from the slide already, I was just curious as to whether this step should be skipped.

M&P15T · 03-02-2012, 09:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by lawboy

I have, but I am trying to do one thing at a time and check the results after each mod. With the extractor falling freely from the slide already, I was just curious as to whether this step should be skipped.

I would think your next step is to stone/polish off a slight ammount of material where the extractor hits the frame. You'll have to go back through the thread to see the pictures to see what I'm talking about.

ballr4lyf · 03-02-2012, 10:45

This is great stuff, but I'm not comfortable performing this type of work.

Does anybody know of a place where I can purchase an extractor that is already within the correct specs? Of all my family, friends, and coworkers I am the "gun guy", so I don't have anybody that I can trust to do this work for me.

M&P15T · 03-02-2012, 11:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by ballr4lyf

This is great stuff, but I'm not comfortable performing this type of work.

Does anybody know of a place where I can purchase an extractor that is already within the correct specs? Of all my family, friends, and coworkers I am the "gun guy", so I don't have anybody that I can trust to do this work for me.

Dude, seriously....this stuff is beyond easy. If you screw it up, a new extractor is like $5.

ken grant · 03-02-2012, 12:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by M&P15T

I would think your next step is to stone/polish off a slight ammount of material where the extractor hits the frame. You'll have to go back through the thread to see the pictures to see what I'm talking about.

I can't see what effect stoning/polishing the extractor/frame contact has.

With a case in the pistol, the extractor doesn't contact the frame surface at the stop point.
Even with the barrel dropped down, the case stills holds the extractor off the frame..

At least that is what my pistols do. The only time the frame stops the extractor is with no case in place.

AA#5 · 03-02-2012, 12:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by CVN76

Thanks for posting all this information, but wow, on two new guns: first I swap out the RSA, then I learn Glock has a redesigned the Gen 4 ejectors and I am getting that work done, and now today I read also the extractor needs work? I bought these thinking they would be the most reliable guns around; so far it has been a little frustrating.

Glocks USED to be one of the most reliable guns around.

GLock's reliability has gone & left no forwarding address.

AA#5 · 03-02-2012, 12:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by High Altitude

Bottom line, no one knows but glock and they aren't talking.

They'll never talk. That's like expecting a drug company to explain why their drug killed so many patients.

ak103k · 03-02-2012, 12:44

Quote:

Glocks USED to be one of the most reliable guns around.

Mine (I have 11) all seem to be OK.

I shot another 300 rounds yesterday with the same 17 I used last time around with the "old" extractor. I swapped the "new" one back, after I cleaned it up. 200 rounds of reloads, 4 cases to the head. 100 rounds of factory WWB, 0 cases to the head. This time around, the reloads did seem to eject a little better, but that not always a true indicator. Sometimes I only get a few, another time, I get a bunch. I swear it depends on the brass.

M&P15T · 03-02-2012, 12:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by ken grant

I can't see what effect stoning/polishing the extractor/frame contact has.

With a case in the pistol, the extractor doesn't contact the frame surface at the stop point.
Even with the barrel dropped down, the case stills holds the extractor off the frame..

At least that is what my pistols do. The only time the frame stops the extractor is with no case in place.

It allows more movement of the extractor, and more positive contact with the case. Current GLOCK pistols seem to have issues with the way the slides and extractors are made, so it helps with ejection to work the contact area.

ak103k · 03-02-2012, 12:58

Quote:

It allows more movement of the extractor,

I think youre missing Kens point. When there is a case present, the point where you say to remove material on the extractor, cant contact the slide, as the case keeps it away from it.

M&P15T · 03-02-2012, 13:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by ak103k

I think youre missing Kens point. When there is a case present, the point where you say to remove material on the extractor, cant contact the slide, as the case keeps it away from it.

Right....when the extractor is properly sized and properly functioning

But if the spec is far out enough, if that contact point is too far out, the extractor is never really making proper contact during the firing cycle. The point is that the current extractors (or possibly the slide milling) seem to be really out of spec.

ken grant · 03-02-2012, 13:18

The only way I see to increase positive extractor contact with the case is to use a stronger plunger spring or use an old non-LCI springloaded bearing which has a thicker head than the LCI bearing. Even then you will most likely have to cut the tail off the bearing so it will not bottom out on the plunger.

Another way is to re-work the hook on the extractor itself but I don't think anyone will try that.

My pistols seem to have properly fitting extractors and only my 19 & 26 gives me the crazy ejections.

My 19 is from Dec.2009 and has the dip extractor but my 26 is from 2005 and has the non-dip extractor.
I put 2 new non-dip LCI extractors in both but they made no difference.

ak103k · 03-02-2012, 13:18

Quote:

But if the spec is far out enough

If what youre saying is right, and the extractor and/or slide were that far out of spec, then the outer edge of the extractor would not be flush with the slide when the case wasnt present.

All my Glocks extractors (with LCI) sit flush when the case isnt present, including the ones that seem to have an issue (with my reloads). Put a case under the extractor, and the LCI sticks out, because the case lifts it off its resting point on the slide.