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Old 12-13-2011, 00:34   #1
Pro 2A
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Grrrr, trying to set up Dillon Square Deal B

I just spent a few hours trying to get the press set up, but I ended up having to take it back apart and unmount it and remove the work surface because I had to change the frame of my bench. I had a 2x4 in the front positioned so that the the wide face was the front of the frame (to give it the most support) and flush with the edge of the work surface. But even after major cutting and chisling (and attaching/removing the press a few times) I couldn't get it to work right without parts of the machine bumping the frame.

So my project for tomorrow is to cut a new piece of 2x4 and install it so the narrow side is facing out (then add an additional vertical support post). Not sure why they had to design it so that things were sticking out UNDER the unit behind the point that contacts the face of the bench. I guess that's why they sell the extra cost, tall mount (that I didn't buy).

But I did finally get the light fixture wired in, after finding out the builder cut corners (big surprize) and the light switch junction box I wanted to use didn't have the right wires, even though based on their color they should have been what I needed. What a screwy junction box (even the electrician I ended up calling to look at it said so). Oh and the breaker box wasn't correctly marked either, so I ended up getting shocked after I thought I had turned off the correct breaker. After that, I tried another breaker that I thought it could possibly be based on it's lable, double checked it with a tester and nope, not it either. Somehow, the breaker that box was conected to was also for some lights at the other end of the house!

Took awhile to find that! I ended up having to tie into a different wire, add a new junction box and now I have to add a switch (since I tied into an outlet line instead of a switch line). I also re-labled the junction box! And reset all the electronics and clocks that got turned off in the process.

Why is nothing ever as easy as it should be! Getting that light wired in should have only taken 15 min. tops, not three days, 3 trips to the hardware store and a visit from an electrician!!

Hopefully getting the press back on and working properly won't be as much of an ordeal as the light turned out to be!
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Old 12-13-2011, 08:17   #2
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Sorry that there's a hassle setting up the press. I mounted mine to my bench without the strong mount and had no issues. I simply set the press on the edge of the bench, drilled the holes and that was that. I don't know what parts are causing you trouble.
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Old 12-13-2011, 08:40   #3
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Flat bench. No more then 1.5 inch's thick. 1 inch overhang (or is it 3/4", call and ask dillon). That should get her done.
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Old 12-13-2011, 09:29   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro 2A View Post
I just spent a few hours trying to get the press set up, but I ended up having to take it back apart and unmount it and remove the work surface because I had to change the frame of my bench. I had a 2x4 in the front positioned so that the the wide face was the front of the frame (to give it the most support) and flush with the edge of the work surface. But even after major cutting and chisling (and attaching/removing the press a few times) I couldn't get it to work right without parts of the machine bumping the frame.
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Flat bench. No more then 1.5 inch's thick. 1 inch overhang (or is it 3/4", call and ask dillon). That should get her done.
If you are building a bench you always want to have overhang in front just for this issue.
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Old 12-13-2011, 10:20   #5
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Originally Posted by creophus View Post
I mounted mine to my bench without the strong mount and had no issues. I simply set the press on the edge of the bench, drilled the holes and that was that. I don't know what parts are causing you trouble.
Same here on the SDB that I used to have. Mounted flush with the bench front which, based on my interpretation of your description, is built the same. A 2x4 frame on edge with a 3/4" plywood surface screwed to it.

Oh, and on the electrical, there are several ways a circuit can be wired, especially one involving lights - feed may go to the switch box, or to the lamp box with a switch leg running to the switch. If the latter, both wires SHOULD have been taped black so that anyone looking in the switch box would know that both legs were running hot.

I learned long ago to always use a circuit tester (or lamp if suitable) to confirm the power is off. I don't like working on hot circuits, period. My moment of truth occurred when working in a quad box in a kitchen. Plugged the lamp in one duplex outlet, found the breaker and turned it off. Went to remove both duplexes and found the second one was on a different breaker! Legal by code as best I can determine, but what an eye opener. I suppose it works for the kitchen since you might have a heavy load on either of the two duplexes, but still... I learned my lesson.

Electrical work, to me, is rather fascinating. At the same time, it is definitely serious work and one had best respect it.

Hope to hear your SDB is up and running real soon....

Last edited by PCJim; 12-13-2011 at 10:27..
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Old 12-13-2011, 10:48   #6
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Originally Posted by Boxerglocker View Post
If you are building a bench you always want to have overhang in front just for this issue.
I know the 650 requires a overhang. So I would encourage people to make every bench with that small amount of overhang just in case. My 550 did not need the overhang with my 2" thick bench. But my 650 did not like the 2" thick and I had to whittle a little away.
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Old 12-13-2011, 11:35   #7
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Shouldn't make any difference how your support 2X4's are facing, the SD will mount flush without an overhang or with the 2X4 facing mounted vertical.

Unless you're trying to mount it higher there is no need for a strong mount.


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Old 12-13-2011, 15:19   #8
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What Jack said.

I mounted my SDB flush against the bench front which is a 2x4 mounted on edge to make a strong support. You can't easily run a through bolt in the 2x4 but I just used two large lag screws in the front mounting holes and a through bolt with nut and washer in the rear mount hole.

On my 650XL I used the strong mount to get the clearance I needed.

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Last edited by gforester; 12-13-2011 at 15:20..
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Old 12-13-2011, 19:01   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gforester View Post
What Jack said.

I mounted my SDB flush against the bench front which is a 2x4 mounted on edge to make a strong support. You can't easily run a through bolt in the 2x4 but I just used two large lag screws in the front mounting holes and a through bolt with nut and washer in the rear mount hole.

On my 650XL I used the strong mount to get the clearance I needed.
Hmmm, That's the set up I had, but the spent primer cup mount kept hitting the bottom of the 2x4 when I pulled the handle down. And the rod to the powder charge was rubbing the front of the bench. But I'm not certain I have that rod connected correctly. It's not moving the powder charge bar fully. I have to contact Dillon on that. The set-up video talked about what he was doing, but it had the maching between the camera and what he was doing at the bottom, so none of that was visible. And the written directions aren't much more help because it references part numbers that aren't in the parts list. It doesn't look like the spent primer cup can fit on any other way given where the holes are (I triple checked that) and it WAS shown in the video being put on the way I have it mounted.

I put the 2x4 flush with the edge so that the 90* angle of the machine's mount was making contact on the front (so it wouldn't be relying only on the lag screws and the bolt to not wobble forward).

I'll see if I can get some photos. I already changed out the 2x4 and put it in with the narrow edge to the front, but I still put it flush with the edge. There should be enough clearance now. I hope.
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Old 12-13-2011, 20:12   #10
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here are a couple of close-up shots of mine. As you can see the powder drop rod has just enough clearance to operate. The primer catch cup clears as well. The edge of the primer cup bracket that the powder drop rod passes through just lightly touches the front of the bench, but with no binding.

Reloading

Reloading
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Old 12-13-2011, 21:11   #11
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Sorry about your problems and frustration. It can be a total agrivation at times. I did spring for strong mounts on both my SDB's and I consider it money well spent. The mount takes away all the mounting problems and clearance issues.
Good luck on getting it set up tomorrow. The SDB is a great press and will load lots of quality ammo. I found on both of mine that they are easy to set and get started loading but after about 200 rounds things got really smooth and the press runs great.
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Old 12-13-2011, 21:18   #12
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Is it really that hard to attach a press to a bench?
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Old 12-13-2011, 21:25   #13
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Originally Posted by Colorado4Wheel View Post
Is it really that hard to attach a press to a bench?
Attach it? No, I have attached mine a few times now. But getting it to operate once attached is the trick
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Old 12-13-2011, 21:26   #14
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here are a couple of close-up shots of mine. As you can see the powder drop rod has just enough clearance to operate. The primer catch cup clears as well. The edge of the primer cup bracket that the powder drop rod passes through just lightly touches the front of the bench, but with no binding.



Your catch cup looks totally different from mine.
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Old 12-13-2011, 21:38   #15
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Attach it? No, I have attached mine a few times now. But getting it to operate once attached is the trick
Yeah I was talking about getting the strong mount to make attaching it to the bench easier. To me, you get the strong mount because you want the extra height, you like the premade bullet and empty case bins, and perhaps because it spreads the load out a little. Like you said, attaching a press to the bench is not a big deal. Did you read the instructions from the start. All of them? Not just diving into the section and looking for your specific problem?
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Old 12-13-2011, 21:43   #16
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Here is the primer catch cup in place (bracket for the finished rounds is removed). You can see how far under the machine it sits.
Reloading

This photo has just the bracket in place, cup removed. As you can see, it doesn't look like there is any other way to attach the two screws near the ejection hole
Reloading

Close up of the bracket, the cup is NOT slid all the way into place so the ejection hole is visible
Reloading
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Old 12-13-2011, 21:46   #17
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The whole base of the machine that the cup is attached to slides up and down, so there has to be significant clearance between the underside of the countertop and the top of the bracket so it can move to it's highest point.
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Old 12-13-2011, 21:47   #18
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It would appear they've changed their design. Sneaky bastards.


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Old 12-13-2011, 21:51   #19
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I just measured. There is only a hair less than 3" between the top of the bracket and the underside of the mount. So the surface the machine is attached to has to be less than 3" thick total. And the cup intrudes 2", so a 2" overhang is needed if the 3" thickness is exceeded.

Stupid design if you ask me!
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Old 12-13-2011, 21:57   #20
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Did you read the instructions from the start. All of them? Not just diving into the section and looking for your specific problem?
I purchased the video and had it running on my laptop as I was putting it together. But they fail to show the rod attached to the primer catch bracket and the black and white pictures in the directions are not helpful since it's a blue nut against a blue catch cup and it's too far away to see the details. The written instructions reference parts and part numbers that are not found on the main parts list and I have no idea what pieces they are refering to. I'll send photos and possibly video to Dillon and see what they say because it's not moving the powder dispensing bar like it should and even if I lift the rod manually it doesn't move the powder bar completely.
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