[geofri]

hey Fellas,

Been absent from GTR*, but am back, since I figred you'd be the ones to know.
Doing a saiga 7.62x39 conversion, and need to cut a hole for the pistol grip nut. I've got measurements, but no way to measure accurately.

What's a decent brand caliper to use for this project, then save to use when I finally get started re-loading?

Amazon has a bunch from $10 to over a hundred.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss...igital+caliper




Thanks!




*reasons being one: I have no reloading equipment, and two: Jack hangs out here a lot.

[El_Ron1]

Those stainless models from Harbor Freight are cheap and work fine. The dial version won't ever need batteries...

[geofri]

Originally Posted by El_Ron1

Those stainless models from Harbor Freight are cheap and work fine. The dial version won't ever need batteries...

Ahh, meant to ask about digital vs standard!

people always throw the harbor freight name around, but I never see their sales.. do they actually sell online?

[unclebob]

Originally Posted by geofri

Ahh, meant to ask about digital vs standard!

people always throw the harbor freight name around, but I never see their sales.. do they actually sell online?

I have both, I like the digital better. Yes they sell on line. Get the best ones they sell.

[Myke_Hart]

Originally Posted by geofri

hey Fellas,

Been absent from GTR*, but am back, since I figred you'd be the ones to know.
Doing a saiga 7.62x39 conversion, and need to cut a hole for the pistol grip nut. I've got measurements, but no way to measure accurately.

What's a decent brand caliper to use for this project, then save to use when I finally get started re-loading?

Amazon has a bunch from $10 to over a hundred.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss...igital+caliper




Thanks!




*reasons being one: I have no reloading equipment, and two: Jack hangs out here a lot.

Wait a minute. I don't recall having to cut any hole for the pistol grip nut. They already exist. Its the perfectly square hole behind the trigger hole. You do need to drill the rivets and spot welds in the trigger gaurd to remove it. And you need to drill the trunion for the feed ramp.

If you have to cut the holes, that will suck, I recommend using a mill.

Harbor freight calipers are great. Get the digital.

Picture of the hole



I have converted two rifles.

Go here for instructions on conversion
http://www.cross-conn.com/Saiga_Conversion/

Conversion parts.
http://www.dinzagarms.com/saiga_762x...ga_762x39.html

[Philippe]

Mitutoyo, dont invest in that harbor freight garbage.

[GioaJack]

Myke, don't tell 'im how to work on a gun, he's a little kid, he's gonna hurt himself!


Jack

[DWARREN123]

I have a old stainless steel dial model from Harbor Freight I got many years ago and they work fine, cost me $25 then.

[bamarammin87]

Brown and sharpe or mitutoyo....take it from a machinist who actually used them everyday.

[geofri]

Originally Posted by unclebob

I have both, I like the digital better. Yes they sell on line. Get the best ones they sell.

any particular reason? more accurate? easier to read?

Originally Posted by Myke_Hart

Wait a minute. I don't recall having to cut any hole for the pistol grip nut. They already exist. Its the perfectly square hole behind the trigger hole. You do need to drill the rivets and spot welds in the trigger gaurd to remove it. And you need to drill the trunion for the feed ramp.

If you have to cut the holes, that will suck, I recommend using a mill.

Harbor freight calipers are great. Get the digital.

Picture of the hole



I have converted two rifles.

Go here for instructions on conversion
http://www.cross-conn.com/Saiga_Conversion/

Conversion parts.
http://www.dinzagarms.com/saiga_762x...ga_762x39.html

Alas, mine is lacking. Its an older model, and doesn't have the hole!
doesn't have the stepped chamber which makes the brass neck bulge either as a lot do I hear.

Don't have access to a machine shop or anything.. so the plan is freehand dremel.. unless I break down and pay a gunsmith to do it..

*already been to dinzag for parts, they are sitting in the gun safe right now. just stalled on the PG hole, and I'm a little nervous about tapping a hole to put in the bullet guide.

Originally Posted by GioaJack

Myke, don't tell 'im how to work on a gun, he's a little kid, he's gonna hurt himself!


Jack

Seewhat im talkinbout!

[Waboom!!]

Originally Posted by bamarammin87

Brown and sharpe or mitutoyo....take it from a machinist who actually used them everyday.

this^

[glock20c10mm]

Found this store/manufacturer online. Name is Tresna. Anyone have experience with them? I see they have measurement tools for about anything that might need measuring. Seems like they have a price range for everyone.

Check them out here - http://www.tresnainstrument.com/

[bamarammin87]

Verniers are best saved for huge calipers. Digital is ok if you fork out 200 bucks for some mitutyos. Just get mitutoyo or b&s dial calipers. Stick with them, they've made good stuff for a loooong time. Etalon if you're feeling fancy. I loooooove my etalon. They're b&s's cadillac calipers. Mitutoyos are nice but I have bad luck with them. I stick with b&s and etalon, and I've tried most every high dollar caliper.

[GioaJack]

In deference to the machinists on here, there is nothing in loading that requires the type of precision that would be required in their profession.

Learn how to barrel gauge or cylinder gauge your rounds and you can actually do away with calipers until you become more experienced and want to play around with shortening an OAL to increase pressure without increasing powder. (A caliper is even less necessary when loading for a revolver since most of the bullets will have either a crimping groove or a cannelure. If it ain't stickin' past the cylinder face you're good to go.)

Actually a micrometer is a more useful tool on a loading bench than a caliper for measuring bullet diameters, case diameters, etc.

If you want to have a set of calipers, fine, Little Stevie will take you to lunch and give you the whole history of them but you don't need to spend a lot of money on them. Hell, Lyman used to make a plastic set that sold for a couple of bucks... still have on somewhere in the room. Dead nuts accuracy just isn't that critical.

Then again you may need something really good so you can screw up that gun stock.


Jack

[Colorado4Wheel]

Newbie Reloading Tool.



http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-...per-47257.html

For the Newbie that hates batteries and has good eyes.


http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-...per-92437.html

[thinkfast]

I got my digital calipers at a big-box home improvement store for 20 bucks and they're awesome. I wouldn't want to have to read 1.080" on a dial...digital is so easy.

[Boxerglocker]

Originally Posted by GioaJack

In deference to the machinists on here, there is nothing in loading that requires the type of precision that would be required in their profession.

Learn how to barrel gauge or cylinder gauge your rounds and you can actually do away with calipers until you become more experienced and want to play around with shortening an OAL to increase pressure without increasing powder. (A caliper is even less necessary when loading for a revolver since most of the bullets will have either a crimping groove or a cannelure. If it ain't stickin' past the cylinder face you're good to go.)

Actually a micrometer is a more useful tool on a loading bench than a caliper for measuring bullet diameters, case diameters, etc.

If you want to have a set of calipers, fine, Little Stevie will take you to lunch and give you the whole history of them but you don't need to spend a lot of money on them. Hell, Lyman used to make a plastic set that sold for a couple of bucks... still have on somewhere in the room. Dead nuts accuracy just isn't that critical.

Then again you may need something really good so you can screw up that gun stock.


Jack

B&S or Mitotoyo's are way overkill for a reloading newb. If your gonna spend the extra $200 put it toward your press and just use the HF calipers.

[unclebob]

Originally Posted by Boxerglocker

B&S or Mitotoyo's are way overkill for a reloading newb. If your gonna spend the extra $200 put it toward your press and just use the HF calipers.

Or scale. A scale is 100% more important than any caliper.
Just get the good HF calipers. I have been using my HF digital for for 10+ years. My dial calipers that I paid 3X+ 30 years ago sits in there box on the top shelf. So once or twice a year I need to replace the battery.

[RWBlue]

I believe my calipers are RCBS. They are analogue.

My scale is a newish RCBS digital.

After many reloading sessions where I worked on experimental setups, I trust both.

In reality, I could get a digital caliper, but.....why screw with something that works.

[garander]

Originally Posted by unclebob

Or scale. A scale is 100% more important than any caliper.
Just get the good HF calipers. I have been using my HF digital for for 10+ years. My dial calipers that I paid 3X+ 30 years ago sits in there box on the top shelf. So once or twice a year I need to replace the battery.

very true with the scale. but a good caliper can be used for many things and if you compare a 25 dollar vs a brown and sharpe side by side the difference is amazing. keep your eye's open and grab a nice used one.

[unclebob]

Originally Posted by garander

very true with the scale. but a good caliper can be used for many things and if you compare a 25 dollar vs a brown and sharpe side by side the difference is amazing. keep your eye's open and grab a nice used one.

That is very true. But for reloading it is not needed. If I had other needs like a lathe, milling machine etc. then I would look into it. Reloading you don’t need anything that is that precise.

[writwing]

Starrett or Brown and Sharpe. American Made!!

[Colorado4Wheel]

I remember when I taught a bunch of guys how to do alignments on a race car using toe plates and a Laser. All of a sudden they all went to Harbor Freight and bought the calipers we use for reloading. Then they started posting about measuring to .001" on the alignment with toe plates. It was insane because you simply can't measure that well using toe plates and it simply doesn't matter to measure that closely. I practically had to talk people off a ledge when they got frustrated trying to measure that precisely.

[bamarammin87]

Lol. Wait til they get some good mic's and start working in tenths (.0001)

If you buy a micrometer, go starrett or mitutoyo. There's a reason I didn't mention b&s in mics and starrett in calipers...

[bamarammin87]

And starrett makes the best scale, unless you're talking about the non machinist scale(for weight). I can measure to bout. 008 with a scale(rule) with a good corner.