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Old 11-04-2010, 10:29   #1
eseaton
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Best way to refinish plastic frame???

I have just bought a Kel-Tec but it is in the gray color frame. I want to change that to black. What would my options be for the most durable finish?

Thanks for the reply.

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Old 11-12-2010, 08:44   #2
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The best answer is have it sprayed with something like Duracoat or Polymax. That said, it would be possible to DIY with a good grade of spray paint, just make sure the surface is absolutely clean and free from any grease or oil before you paint it, and mask off any areas you don't want painted.
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Old 11-24-2010, 16:17   #3
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Cerakote H-Series . We bake polymer frames all the time. low and slow baking.

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Old 12-28-2010, 12:31   #4
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what would you clean the plastic with so that you done weaken it?
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Old 12-31-2010, 13:34   #5
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what would you clean the plastic with so that you done weaken it?
degreaser. I use KG but many others will work
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Old 01-03-2011, 09:55   #6
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Step one ~ degrease.. try this stuff it works great. http://www.houtsenterprises.net/product123.html

Step two ~ Sand with 400 gr sandpaper.. anymore and its too fine, anyless and it will scratch it.

Step three ~ Apply 2-3 light coats of bulldog adhesive promoter (try cragan auto, pep boys, etc)

Step four ~ Apply 2-3 light coats of spray can sandable primer (home depot, lowes, etc)

Step five ~ Rub it out with 0000 steal wool

Step six ~ apply paint

Please don't forget to seal it when you done..

Have fun..
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Old 01-15-2011, 19:14   #7
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what would you clean the plastic with so that you done weaken it?
You can degrease it with Paslode nail gun cleaner sold at home depot. Works well and leaves no residue.

Parts should be media blasted prior to spraying so the finish has something to bite into.
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Old 02-05-2011, 09:35   #8
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I realize that I am a little late on this thread, but most, if not all of the Keltec pistols have frames that can be replaced and they are available in a variety of colors at a very affordable price. The grip is not the serial numbered part, so it can be ordered and shipped direct to you.
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Old 02-19-2011, 12:33   #9
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Originally Posted by lsbbigdog View Post
Cerakote H-Series . We bake polymer frames all the time. low and slow baking.

Attachment 208143

Attachment 208144

Man that smith and wesson looks awesome!!!
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Old 02-20-2011, 11:53   #10
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Man that smith and wesson looks awesome!!!

Thanks
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Old 03-12-2011, 17:54   #11
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How low is low baking and how much time is slow?
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Old 03-23-2011, 05:26   #12
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How low is low baking and how much time is slow?
200deg for 2hrs
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Old 07-09-2011, 09:38   #13
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I once bought a Walther PPS with that weird blue frame. I checked around and found that I could dye the frame using Rit black dye. As I recall, it was simply a matter of stripping the frame of all components and suspending it in a pot of hot dye and salt. After it's completed, you wash it very well and re-assemble. I think you can find the full instructions on the net. I believe it was under an H&K heading somewhere.
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Old 09-16-2011, 05:47   #14
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Link to dye method

Here's the link - http://www.ump45.com/USC45%20Dying%20Method.htm
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Old 09-26-2011, 23:44   #15
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We cook our Cerakote at 170 for 2 hours on polymer.
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Old 11-08-2011, 10:09   #16
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Nice

Quote:
Originally Posted by lsbbigdog View Post
Cerakote H-Series . We bake polymer frames all the time. low and slow baking.

Attachment 208143

Attachment 208144
I'm going to be ordering this stuff today. I have a couple varmint guns i've been waiting to do something with .
Those are really sharp . Nice job well done.
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Old 12-01-2011, 08:19   #17
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Can you post pics on how it turned out!?

Thanks!

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Originally Posted by November Sunrise View Post
I'm going to be ordering this stuff today. I have a couple varmint guns i've been waiting to do something with .
Those are really sharp . Nice job well done.
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Old 01-31-2012, 03:51   #18
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I read that kel tec sprays there guns for the colors and they all are black underneath
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Old 01-31-2012, 19:18   #19
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I think that some of the new ones have cerecote at least on the slides. My PF-9 frame is molded in color. It had a sharp mold line on the back of the grip that I filed off back when it was new with no loss of color. It is a couple of years old now, so things could have changed.
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Old 02-01-2012, 06:37   #20
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Found this on the Kel Tec Owners Group
http://www.thektog.org/forum/showthread.php?t=245724

Probably the easiest though is to go to Keltecs online store and order a new lower ($34.00) in the color you want.
http://www.keltecweapons.com/product...nternal-parts/

Since the serial number is actually on the internal mechanism/group you can buy the lower and swap everything over with out having to go through an FFL.

Last edited by azron; 02-01-2012 at 06:44..
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Old 12-26-2012, 13:13   #21
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If the grip you have is grey (gray), it will be much easier to just dye it. A package of RIT black dye, from your local grocery, and a pot, is all you need.
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Old 02-08-2013, 22:59   #22
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I respect this is an old thread but would like to chime in. Experience; 20 years plastic welding, fabrication of small parts to repair all sorts of items for people, refinishing rigid and flexible plastic, Thermoplastic and Thermosetting polymers.

Since the question was regarding the frame of a firearm, might I suggest the following additions:
1- Checking the fitment of the parts that go back on once you have painted it? See how much more "coating material" you can build up before parts stop lining up correctly.
2- Clean the surface with degreaser or even dish detergeant to remove the surface contaminants and soil.
3- Using a white cloth and a Pre Solvent listed as safe or the type of plastic substrate you are working with. ie; 3M Prep Solvent or other body shop plastic prep-solvent. A product by the name of Polycracker is an excellent cleaner and degreaser.
4- Rinse with hot water then dry.
5- Wipe using a white lint free cloth and a Final Prep or even Isoprypol Alcohol. This will remove the surfactent left behind by soaps and or degreasers.
Remember, when you wipe the surface, you want to go one direction, flip the cloth to a clean spot then wipe another section. Wiping back and forth just moves the contamination around on the surface.
6- The 400 grit should be fine but test in a small area. Some plastic will fur up on you if you use too low "abrasive grit" paper. Generally, I would use 600 grit but again the member that mentioned 400 grit is right on too.
7- Blow off the sanding dust "small project, canned air works well" then perform another final wipe down using the IP Alcohol or Final Prep.
8- Bull Dog is a must as the member pointed out. Use an airbrush, spray gun even a Preval set-up from the hardware store will work. He is right, thin coat, let dry fully, apply another thin coat.
9- Check the fit of the components going back onto the frame. If you have room, spray a coat of primer. If you do use primer, might I suggest using 600 or 800 grit then wet sanding to make it smooth but still abraided enough for the paint top-coat to grab on?
10- Follow the paint of your choice instructions.

Hope this will help a member with their project one day.
Respectully yours,
John
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