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01-06-2011, 21:51
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Richardson, TX
Posts: 184
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durability of spray paint vs. duracoat
I want to spray camo an AR of mine. I'm curious about using Duracoat vs. spray paint.
If Duracoat is more durable, it's also more expensive. I'm assuming that spray paint is less durable, but considering how cheap it is it seems like it would be cheaper to touch up if it got chipped or messed up.
What is your experience?
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01-13-2011, 15:34
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#2
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GT Sponsor
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 54
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Chris,
You've pretty much got it figured out: Duracoat will look better, last longer and provide more protection. Spray paint is cheap and easy to touch up.
__________________
The Robar Companies
Offering premium firearm finishes, custom gunsmithing and polymer pistol frame reductions & modifications since 1986.
www.robarguns.com
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01-31-2011, 12:26
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#3
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safe-cracker
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: WI's Northwoods
Posts: 4,666
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I've got experience with both. My advice is, yes, duracoat costs "a little" more, but you get what you pay for, so go with the duracoat if you've got (or can afford) the equipment needed to apply it. The cost differance between the two isn't all that much, IMO. Duracoat is sold in 4 or 8 oz bottles, and it goes a long way. I'd say a 4oz bottle of duracoat, applied with an air-brush, will equal at least 2 cans of Krylon in total area covered. Duracoat will outlast numerous krylon paint jobs, so in the long run, it's actually cheaper. And the color choices between the two doesn't even come close. Duracoat has hundreds of colors suitable for firearms, and you can mix colors to get the exact shade you want. The downside to duracoating is buying the application tools, and if you get tired of the "look" you've created, paint is easy to remove and start over. Not so with duracoat. It's pretty much "permanent".
I krylon painted a Remington 870 Express in camo, about 8 yrs ago. After a long season of duck & goose hunting with it, it looked battered. At least 1/3 the krylon was gone. I'd repaint it every summer. Last summer, I stripped all the krylon and duracoated it. After the season was over, it looked just as good as the day I finished it. I'm really impressed with the durability.
The biggest expense for duracoat is some type of air compressor. I already had one, so all I needed was a $25 airbrush from Harbor Freight, and lots of brake cleaner for cleaning/degreasing prior to applying (the key to a solid application is clean and grease/oil free surfaces... but that's true for both krylon & duracoat, or anything else you'd apply). So far, I've done 5 firearms, and have several more just waiting for some warm weather.
__________________
Average response time to a 911 call is 23 minutes.
Average response time of a 1911 in .45acp is 850 fps.
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01-31-2011, 12:37
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Richardson, TX
Posts: 184
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Great advice....thanks. My last question would be have you seen the Duracoat site where they have that little aerosal looking spray can with the needed attachment? Would that not be sufficient to get the duracoat job done?
http://www.lauerweaponry.com/item-de...mage=ezkit.gif
thanks
Chris
Quote:
Originally Posted by rfb45colt
I've got experience with both. My advice is, yes, duracoat costs "a little" more, but you get what you pay for, so go with the duracoat if you've got (or can afford) the equipment needed to apply it. The cost differance between the two isn't all that much, IMO. Duracoat is sold in 4 or 8 oz bottles, and it goes a long way. I'd say a 4oz bottle of duracoat, applied with an air-brush, will equal at least 2 cans of Krylon in total area covered. Duracoat will outlast numerous krylon paint jobs, so in the long run, it's actually cheaper. And the color choices between the two doesn't even come close. Duracoat has hundreds of colors suitable for firearms, and you can mix colors to get the exact shade you want. The downside to duracoating is buying the application tools, and if you get tired of the "look" you've created, paint is easy to remove and start over. Not so with duracoat. It's pretty much "permanent".
I krylon painted a Remington 870 Express in camo, about 8 yrs ago. After a long season of duck & goose hunting with it, it looked battered. At least 1/3 the krylon was gone. I'd repaint it every summer. Last summer, I stripped all the krylon and duracoated it. After the season was over, it looked just as good as the day I finished it. I'm really impressed with the durability.
The biggest expense for duracoat is some type of air compressor. I already had one, so all I needed was a $25 airbrush from Harbor Freight, and lots of brake cleaner for cleaning/degreasing prior to applying (the key to a solid application is clean and grease/oil free surfaces... but that's true for both krylon & duracoat, or anything else you'd apply). So far, I've done 5 firearms, and have several more just waiting for some warm weather.
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01-31-2011, 13:24
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#5
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safe-cracker
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: WI's Northwoods
Posts: 4,666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gringogigante
Great advice....thanks. My last question would be have you seen the Duracoat site where they have that little aerosal looking spray can with the needed attachment? Would that not be sufficient to get the duracoat job done?
http://www.lauerweaponry.com/item-de...mage=ezkit.gif
thanks
Chris
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It uses a small can of compressed air. I've used one, and it doesn't go very far. It's OK for touch ups, but not a full blown coating job.
Check out Harbor Freight Tools. You might be surprised at how cheap a small air-brush & compressor set up is. You only need 30-40 lbs per sq in of compressed air to apply duracoat with an air brush. You will need some thinner to clean up your air brush. I found that Ace Hardware sells a heavy-duty laquer thinner (must say "for epoxy resins") that works great for clean up. Duracoat sells their own thinner (called "Reducer") that I'd use if you want to "cut" the duracoat, but I've not needed to thin it at all to spray it on.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...y=&q=air+brush
__________________
Average response time to a 911 call is 23 minutes.
Average response time of a 1911 in .45acp is 850 fps.
Last edited by rfb45colt; 01-31-2011 at 13:32..
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01-31-2011, 14:01
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Richardson, TX
Posts: 184
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will do. thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by rfb45colt
It uses a small can of compressed air. I've used one, and it doesn't go very far. It's OK for touch ups, but not a full blown coating job.
Check out Harbor Freight Tools. You might be surprised at how cheap a small air-brush & compressor set up is. You only need 30-40 lbs per sq in of compressed air to apply duracoat with an air brush. You will need some thinner to clean up your air brush. I found that Ace Hardware sells a heavy-duty laquer thinner (must say "for epoxy resins") that works great for clean up. Duracoat sells their own thinner (called "Reducer") that I'd use if you want to "cut" the duracoat, but I've not needed to thin it at all to spray it on.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...y=&q=air+brush
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