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Old 08-28-2009, 02:01   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJay03 View Post
I was looking all over for this also. On a carry gun should I do the 3.5lb connector also? If so where do I get it?
Around here all Glocks issued by the Ministry of Defense, Military and Police are all issued with the 3.5 lb connector.

You can get the original Glock connector from many online sources, try some at the top of the page or at your local gun shop.
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Old 08-28-2009, 02:26   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M5Instructor View Post
Around here all Glocks issued by the Ministry of Defense, Military and Police are all issued with the 3.5 lb connector.

You can get the original Glock connector from many online sources, try some at the top of the page or at your local gun shop.
No liability lawyers around there huh?

Glock won't sell 3.5 connectors here, they only put them in the longslide 'competition' guns. The one's sold by the online sources you mention are imported by someone other than Glock, and tend to cost 10 or more times what they should.

There are at least three places here that make them though....not that they're much (if any) cheaper.


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Old 08-28-2009, 08:03   #23
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I've been back and forth more than once about this issue. I've done the 25 cent job (and btw the 5 cent job - using a "Kiss" 4-way fingernail buffing stick - is safer and does just fine) and did install a Glock 3.5 connector.

Yes, the trigger pull will be smoother. Yes, the middle trigger pull will be from 4.5 to 5 lbs (not a "hair trigger"). But yes too - any mods you make from stock from stock, especially the 3.5 lb connector - will absolutely be jumped on by any prosecutor or civil liablity attorney worth his/her salt.

Instead of focusing on why you feared for your life, the jury will be treated to why you thought you do some self-help gunsmithing and why you decided to put in a connector that the manufacturer recommends against.

As Mas Ayoob says, from a liability standpoint, smoothing is fine. Lightening is not. One exception: the 3.5 plus a NY#1 spring INCREASES pull , and is not considered a questionable mod.
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:58   #24
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No way would I advise anyone to use a 3.5 connector with a coil spring in a carry gun!


Why not? It still comes out to be close to a 5lb. trigger. Hell, even Mas Ayoob's new carry 1911 has a 4.5 lb trigger.
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Old 08-28-2009, 11:02   #25
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Would the lone wolf piece be a good one to get? I think that was the name of the company its on glockparts.com . The thing about a 1911 with a light pull is at least they have a manual safety.
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Old 08-28-2009, 11:22   #26
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What is it? It's a good way to screw up your gun if you don't know what you're doing. Just shoot it. It'll smooth out on it's own.
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Old 08-28-2009, 12:00   #27
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Re: What exactly is the .25 trigger job?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Evela
...will absolutely be jumped on by any prosecutor or civil liablity attorney worth his/her salt.

Instead of focusing on why you feared for your life, the jury will be treated to why you thought you do some self-help gunsmithing and why you decided to put in a connector that the manufacturer recommends against.
This should be our paramount concern.
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Old 08-28-2009, 12:05   #28
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I dont see how you could mess the gun up by a little polishing. I just dont see how you would screw something up unless your totally ignorant. I took my 1911 frame apart down to every last piece and it wasnt that bad at all. The glock looks a lot more simple then that even.
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Old 08-28-2009, 12:10   #29
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I dont see how you could mess the gun up by a little polishing. I just dont see how you would screw something up unless your totally ignorant. I took my 1911 frame apart down to every last piece and it wasnt that bad at all. The glock looks a lot more simple then that even.
All I know is I always see threads in here along the lines of:

"Tried a .25 cent trigger job and now something is wrong"

Usually people take too much off would be my guess.
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Old 08-28-2009, 13:23   #30
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*QUOTE*
What exactly is the .25 trigger job?

A waste of time, learn how to do a real trigger job on a Glock.
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Old 08-28-2009, 16:17   #31
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I used a ceramic sharpening stone (Ultra-fine) from my Lansky knife sharpening kit. I choose this method because the ceramic stone does a fine job of smoothing and shining with taking off too much metal. It is thin and small enough to use. The down side is that is incredibly (super-incredibly) time consuming. But if you hurry this job, you will probably do bad things to your firearm. I can do very precise polishing with the stone, plus running the parts against the stone while polishing provides feedback that lets me know when I need to polish more, and more importantly when I need to STOP polishing.
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Old 12-03-2009, 00:27   #32
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No sense in starting a new thread when I could resurrect an old one I've thought about doing this (by hand, not with a dremel) but am afraid of making my trigger pull too light. :( I have a NY1 spring right now, but also have my regular "S" coil spring. If it lightens the pull, would it be worth it to continue using my NY1? Or will it not really affect the pull weight with the standard coil?

Would this void the warranty?
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Old 12-03-2009, 07:59   #33
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What exactly is the .25 trigger job?
It's a giant,steaming pile of BS.That's what it is...
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Old 12-03-2009, 08:35   #34
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It's not brain surgery. Just go easy and you won't have a problem. Polish it don't grind it. I've done it to all my Glocks and I have the Ghost ultimate 3.5lb connector in all of them. I even have the same set up in my carry gun.
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Old 12-03-2009, 09:06   #35
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I did mine yesterday. Several videos & instructions on the web.
Smooths out rough surfaces that are on some guns to make the trigger smoother, not lighter.
My 8 year old G27 was a lot smoother, even new, than my 6 month old 19. When I took it apart I found out why. The stamped metal parts that contact each other look like the tooling they used was older and did not make as smooth a cut. The trigger felt like it had a little bit of grit. I used a EZE-Lap Diamond stick sharpener for support with some 800 grit paper wrapped around instead of a Dremel. More precise and just polishes and smooths the rough spots. Just take your time and be careful however you do it.
One advantage is that you should feel a lot more comfortable with the mechanics of your gun after disassembling and reassembling. Just take your time and follow the instructions carefully. Stop and see whats wrong if something doesn't feel right. The only thing that takes a little finesse is the trigger pin. I found that wiggling the slide stop around was the problem as it uses the same pin. But no force is required, just moving it a little so the pin can slide through smoothly. It took me about 10 minutes to take it apart the first time while reading the instructions carefully. Now I can strip it and reassemble in a fraction of the time and feel confident I did it right. And I have a NY1 in it too.
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Old 12-03-2009, 09:51   #36
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It's a giant,steaming pile of BS.That's what it is...
WHAT?
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:08   #37
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http://lmgtfy.com/?q=.25+cent+trigger+job
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:22   #38
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WHAT?
Shooting your gun will yield much better results.Just think about all the nimrods out there that have taken files, dremmel tools,sand paper,bench grinders() to trigger bars and connectors.Its kind of scary...
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:32   #39
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Shooting your gun will yield much better results.:
I disagree. If your gun is lubed as it should be then there is no way the metal to metal contacts with smooth themselves out. The .25 trigger job done right will make a big difference in smoothing out the action..
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:46   #40
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i disagree. If your gun is lubed as it should be then there is no way the metal to metal contacts with smooth themselves out. The .25 trigger job done right will make a big difference in smoothing out the action..
...x2
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