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Old 04-12-2014, 20:44   #1
JMS
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Conventional Oil vs. Synthetic Oil

5,000 miles oil change interval (whichever route I go)

7.4 qts of Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic 5W20= $37.25
7.4 qts of Mobil Super Conventional 5W20= $19.20
Difference $18.05

With the above scenario, is it worth the difference in additional protection and any other benefit to switch to fully synthetic? Money isn't really a concern in the equation, more about if there are true benefits to one over the other for the above OCI?

The main reason I'm going with Mobil is because they have an engine warranty if you use their product. Other oil companies seem to have a mileage/year cutoff, whereas Mobil doesn't.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/..._Warranty.aspx
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/..._Warranty.aspx
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English-LCW...-warranty.aspx
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Old 04-12-2014, 20:47   #2
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Conventional Oil vs. Synthetic Oil

It doesn't matter. Modern cars call for conventional changes every 7500 miles or more.

The only exception is a quality oil like Amsoil has been shown to last 20,000ish miles. "Last" isn't the best word to use...it starts breaking down at that point.


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Old 04-12-2014, 20:53   #3
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What kind of vehicle? I'm assuming some kind of V8 truck...
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Old 04-12-2014, 20:58   #4
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why change synthetic at 5000 miles? I thought it was good for much more than that
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Old 04-12-2014, 21:00   #5
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What kind of vehicle? I'm assuming some kind of V8 truck...
Toyota Sequoia 5.7 V8
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Old 04-12-2014, 21:03   #6
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I called mobil 1 and asked about oci and they said 10K. Any doubts just have your oil tested at Black Stone Labs
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Old 04-12-2014, 21:04   #7
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Quote:
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Toyota Sequoia 5.7 V8
I figured it was a 5.7 Toyota... I've got the tundra 5.7 and run Mobil 1 5w20 synthetic... I feel it's worth it.
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Old 04-12-2014, 21:06   #8
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I use Eco Ultra (recycled re-refined) which I believe is semi-synthetic.
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Old 04-12-2014, 21:11   #9
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10,000, full synthetic.

At 5,000, you're dumping clean oil with plenty of additive life remaining, for no benefit.
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Old 04-12-2014, 21:14   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer11 View Post
I called mobil 1 and asked about oci and they said 10K. Any doubts just have your oil tested at Black Stone Labs
I'm familiar with them but each test runs $25. For the 2 oil changes I do a year it's not really worth it. With a 5k OCI I have peace of mind that the 'blood' of my vehicle is as clean as possible and will run strong until the wheels fall off.
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Old 04-12-2014, 21:17   #11
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Folks who I know who know a lot about oil, such as race car drivers and crew tell me full synthetic is the way to go.
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Old 04-12-2014, 21:23   #12
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Full synthetic is good for double that, especially Mobil 1. My car requires full synthetic, and my dealership puts my sticker on at 3 months or 10k miles, using Mobil 1.

I know you say price isn't a factor, but when you are changing out perfectly good oil, you are wasting a good amount of it! My vote always goes to full synthetic, regardless of requirements.

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Old 04-12-2014, 21:33   #13
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I like Synthetic in 0W-20 (getting harder to find now) cause it gets into the lifters quick on cold startup, especially in very cold below zero Winter weather. Only oil I have ever put into this truck. Changing every 100 engine hours.


126,000 on 19 year old truck 318 ci and no guide leaks or oil consumption. Use it Summer and Winter commuting >60 miles per day. We are both retired now.
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Old 04-12-2014, 21:36   #14
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Neither.

Rotella full synthetic at Wal Mart. Change in 10K intervals.

I love how the manufacturer tells you to change it 5-7K miles and the speedy oil change places tell you 3.5K
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Old 04-12-2014, 21:37   #15
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I use full synthetic and change it every 5,000 miles because it's what my car calls for. Apparently the turbo isn't super duper fond of non-synthetic, or something like that. The cost doesn't bother me, it took me almost a year to go 5,000 miles. And I get free oil changes if I take it to the dealership.
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Old 04-12-2014, 21:56   #16
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I run synthetic in the Harley because it is an air cooled engine. Everything else gets Dino oil.

I remember when folks changed oil every 3K and the filter every other oil change. But back then if you got 100K out of an engine you were accused of knowing Voodoo.
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Old 04-12-2014, 22:01   #17
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I run Mobil 1 full synthetic in my little Chevy Sonic. I change it around 8500mi or 20% left on the oil life meter, whichever is sooner.
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Old 04-12-2014, 22:08   #18
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5 VEHICLES all synthetic

tractors , etc heavy duty rotella dino
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Old 04-12-2014, 22:13   #19
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I run the cheapest oil I can find and change it a little before recommended. Good dino oil does just fine unless the engine require synthetic. My car is a 2011 and wants the oil changed every 3,500. Truck gets it every 5k, Jeep every 3k, Rogue 4k. I do not like the oil to get black. There is no sludge or other nastiness in my engines. I worry more about turbos, injectors, transmissions, etc. I have not heard of many engines wearing out these days. My Accord had over 300k on it and the lower end was still in good shape.
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Old 04-12-2014, 23:23   #20
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I've run Wal-Mart Super Tech synthetic oil in my vehicles for years. I change the oil/filter faithfully every 5,000 miles and have not had a serious engine problem in either vehicle.

Synthetic oil is a straight up process; no need to spend extra dollars on "name" brand companies when the generic product does just as well.
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Old 04-12-2014, 23:30   #21
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Oil doesn't break down, it does get contaminated, you change oil to remove those contaminates.

The best way to determine oil change intervals really is through oil sampling, but for most people and most cars it isn't worth the hassle, so go with what the car manufacturer says.




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Old 04-12-2014, 23:33   #22
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2006 RAV4 - 240,000 miles and counting
2001 F150 - 198,000 miles and counting

Both vehicles have only seen conventional oil.
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Old 04-12-2014, 23:48   #23
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Full synthetic in everything I own. Mobil 1 in the truck, Amsoil synthetic in the motorcycle, Amsoil lubricants for all my business' equipment both 2 and 4 stroke. My personal interval is 5,000 miles on the truck, 3,000 on the bike, maybe I'm being wasteful, that's fine by me. An oil change is cheap.
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Old 04-12-2014, 23:55   #24
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Oil doesn't break down, it does get contaminated, you change oil to remove those contaminates.

Ok, just how does the oil get contaminated? You put in new oil and filter, drain plug and filler cap and filter are tight, so the system is basically sealed. So how does contaminates get in. Yes Virginia, your oil does break down because most conventional oil has a paraffin (YES THAT IS WAX) base. That is what the "sludge" actually is. Caused mostly by engine heat cooking the oil. It's how they make grease. Cook the oil and add wax and metallic soaps. So what is the difference between conventional oil and synthetic? Synthetic has less, or no wax and every oil molecule has been resized to the same size for more uniform flow and surface adhesion.
I may not know Jack, but I know my oil! Go with the synthetic . Synthetic oil is real oil, not chemically made in a lab, just molectural ly modified.
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Old 04-13-2014, 00:16   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slabsider View Post
Oil doesn't break down, it does get contaminated, you change oil to remove those contaminates.

Ok, just how does the oil get contaminated? You put in new oil and filter, drain plug and filler cap and filter are tight, so the system is basically sealed. So how does contaminates get in. Yes Virginia, your oil does break down because most conventional oil has a paraffin (YES THAT IS WAX) base. That is what the "sludge" actually is. Caused mostly by engine heat cooking the oil. It's how they make grease. Cook the oil and add wax and metallic soaps. So what is the difference between conventional oil and synthetic? Synthetic has less, or no wax and every oil molecule has been resized to the same size for more uniform flow and surface adhesion.
I may not know Jack, but I know my oil! Go with the synthetic . Synthetic oil is real oil, not chemically made in a lab, just molectural ly modified.
blowby from piston rings, fuel washed cylinder walls, there is lots of cast iron on cast iron scraping going on with some wear, combustion by products, small particulates that the air filter lets through, pcv system

You have noticed used oil is dark with stuff that wasn't present when you first poured in the new oil?

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