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11-04-2010, 10:29
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#1
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'OP'
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 168
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Best way to refinish plastic frame???
I have just bought a Kel-Tec but it is in the gray color frame. I want to change that to black. What would my options be for the most durable finish?
Thanks for the reply.
eseaton
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11-12-2010, 08:44
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#2
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GT Sponsor
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 54
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The best answer is have it sprayed with something like Duracoat or Polymax. That said, it would be possible to DIY with a good grade of spray paint, just make sure the surface is absolutely clean and free from any grease or oil before you paint it, and mask off any areas you don't want painted.
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11-24-2010, 16:17
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 688
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Cerakote H-Series . We bake polymer frames all the time. low and slow baking.
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12-28-2010, 12:31
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 3
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what would you clean the plastic with so that you done weaken it?
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12-31-2010, 13:34
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Youngstown, OH
Posts: 2,736
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkreed26
what would you clean the plastic with so that you done weaken it?
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degreaser. I use KG but many others will work
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01-03-2011, 09:55
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: So-Cal (Huntington Beach)
Posts: 538
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Step one ~ degrease.. try this stuff it works great. http://www.houtsenterprises.net/product123.html
Step two ~ Sand with 400 gr sandpaper.. anymore and its too fine, anyless and it will scratch it.
Step three ~ Apply 2-3 light coats of bulldog adhesive promoter (try cragan auto, pep boys, etc)
Step four ~ Apply 2-3 light coats of spray can sandable primer (home depot, lowes, etc)
Step five ~ Rub it out with 0000 steal wool
Step six ~ apply paint
Please don't forget to seal it when you done..
Have fun..
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01-15-2011, 19:14
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 688
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkreed26
what would you clean the plastic with so that you done weaken it?
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You can degrease it with Paslode nail gun cleaner sold at home depot. Works well and leaves no residue.
Parts should be media blasted prior to spraying so the finish has something to bite into.
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02-05-2011, 09:35
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 83
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I realize that I am a little late on this thread, but most, if not all of the Keltec pistols have frames that can be replaced and they are available in a variety of colors at a very affordable price. The grip is not the serial numbered part, so it can be ordered and shipped direct to you.
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02-19-2011, 12:33
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#9
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G1 Niner Rockin
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Crystal City, MO
Posts: 335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsbbigdog
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Man that smith and wesson looks awesome!!!
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02-20-2011, 11:53
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 688
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huber
Man that smith and wesson looks awesome!!!
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Thanks
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03-12-2011, 17:54
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#11
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Nobody special.
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: In flyover country
Posts: 3,864
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How low is low baking and how much time is slow?
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03-23-2011, 05:26
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 688
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anyplainjoe
How low is low baking and how much time is slow?
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200deg for 2hrs
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07-09-2011, 09:38
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Tulare, CA
Posts: 146
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I once bought a Walther PPS with that weird blue frame. I checked around and found that I could dye the frame using Rit black dye. As I recall, it was simply a matter of stripping the frame of all components and suspending it in a pot of hot dye and salt. After it's completed, you wash it very well and re-assemble. I think you can find the full instructions on the net. I believe it was under an H&K heading somewhere.
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Dave Frost
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09-16-2011, 05:47
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 198
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Link to dye method
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09-26-2011, 23:44
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: North Bend Oregon
Posts: 560
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We cook our Cerakote at 170 for 2 hours on polymer.
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11-08-2011, 10:09
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: South Central Michigan
Posts: 197
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Nice
Quote:
Originally Posted by lsbbigdog
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I'm going to be ordering this stuff today. I have a couple varmint guns i've been waiting to do something with .
Those are really sharp . Nice job well done.
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12-01-2011, 08:19
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#17
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 1
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Can you post pics on how it turned out!?
Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by November Sunrise
I'm going to be ordering this stuff today. I have a couple varmint guns i've been waiting to do something with .
Those are really sharp . Nice job well done.
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01-31-2012, 03:51
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 29
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I read that kel tec sprays there guns for the colors and they all are black underneath
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01-31-2012, 19:18
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 83
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I think that some of the new ones have cerecote at least on the slides. My PF-9 frame is molded in color. It had a sharp mold line on the back of the grip that I filed off back when it was new with no loss of color. It is a couple of years old now, so things could have changed.
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12-26-2012, 13:13
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#21
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 75
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If the grip you have is grey (gray), it will be much easier to just dye it. A package of RIT black dye, from your local grocery, and a pot, is all you need.
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02-08-2013, 22:59
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#22
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 25
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I respect this is an old thread but would like to chime in. Experience; 20 years plastic welding, fabrication of small parts to repair all sorts of items for people, refinishing rigid and flexible plastic, Thermoplastic and Thermosetting polymers.
Since the question was regarding the frame of a firearm, might I suggest the following additions:
1- Checking the fitment of the parts that go back on once you have painted it? See how much more "coating material" you can build up before parts stop lining up correctly.
2- Clean the surface with degreaser or even dish detergeant to remove the surface contaminants and soil.
3- Using a white cloth and a Pre Solvent listed as safe or the type of plastic substrate you are working with. ie; 3M Prep Solvent or other body shop plastic prep-solvent. A product by the name of Polycracker is an excellent cleaner and degreaser.
4- Rinse with hot water then dry.
5- Wipe using a white lint free cloth and a Final Prep or even Isoprypol Alcohol. This will remove the surfactent left behind by soaps and or degreasers.
Remember, when you wipe the surface, you want to go one direction, flip the cloth to a clean spot then wipe another section. Wiping back and forth just moves the contamination around on the surface.
6- The 400 grit should be fine but test in a small area. Some plastic will fur up on you if you use too low "abrasive grit" paper. Generally, I would use 600 grit but again the member that mentioned 400 grit is right on too.
7- Blow off the sanding dust "small project, canned air works well" then perform another final wipe down using the IP Alcohol or Final Prep.
8- Bull Dog is a must as the member pointed out. Use an airbrush, spray gun even a Preval set-up from the hardware store will work. He is right, thin coat, let dry fully, apply another thin coat.
9- Check the fit of the components going back onto the frame. If you have room, spray a coat of primer. If you do use primer, might I suggest using 600 or 800 grit then wet sanding to make it smooth but still abraided enough for the paint top-coat to grab on?
10- Follow the paint of your choice instructions.
Hope this will help a member with their project one day.
Respectully yours,
John
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