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Old 03-24-2013, 09:05   #1
tucojuanramirez
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EXTRACTOR lubrification ?

Hi my dear American Friends!
Just a question!
May I lube the extractor or does it works dry?
For lubrification I want to say just a little bit where it's sitted.
Thank you!
Paolo
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:10   #2
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No lube


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Old 03-24-2013, 09:15   #3
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Doesn't need it, shouldn't have it.


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Old 03-24-2013, 09:26   #4
tucojuanramirez
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ok, no lube...
I've read many threads about extractor's issue on G19gen4...
Since I clean the extractor (first time in my G19gen4 life) I've got two FTF, and so I supposed that I clean too much the extractor and where it's sitted, also the factory grease I thought.
Thank you.
Paolo
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Old 03-24-2013, 11:53   #5
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No lubrification required, whatsoever..
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Old 03-24-2013, 12:01   #6
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By FTF you mean failure to feed? I doubt that has anything to do with your extractor, although it is possible. See: http://www.warriortalk.com/showthrea...lunger-channel

No lubrication needed in that area--it can cause accumulation of fouling.
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Old 03-24-2013, 14:13   #7
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No lubrification required, whatsoever..
How's your Italian?
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Old 03-24-2013, 16:58   #8
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When I first polished the metal parts inside my Glock pistols, I had a bit of polishing compound on a piece of cardboard. I rubbed the extractor on this spot top and bottom. It polished the extractor a little bit and I think it keeps things moving with NO lubrication. Good luck!
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Old 03-24-2013, 19:02   #9
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I still put a drop of CLP on the back pivot end, articulate it to disperse the lube, and then wipe off the excess, including any crud in and around the extractor or claw.

But then again, I grease the rails too... so there's that.

If it rotates - Oil it. If it slides - Grease it. (except for the Glock firing-pin)




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Last edited by Glock 23 Nutter; 03-24-2013 at 19:04..
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Old 03-24-2013, 19:12   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tucojuanramirez View Post
ok, no lube...
I've read many threads about extractor's issue on G19gen4...
Since I clean the extractor (first time in my G19gen4 life) I've got two FTF, and so I supposed that I clean too much the extractor and where it's sitted, also the factory grease I thought. Thank you. - Paolo
NOT an extractor issue. More than likely it's either a weak ammo or limp-wristing error on your part. Dry the extractor and internal slide channels. Use something like Q-Tips in order to get the job done right. Then lube your Glock according to the Owner's Manual. Be sure to get the slide rails and tracks.

If your recoil spring is weak, then change the RSA (recoil spring assembly). Do a standard operation check, per the Owner's Manual, and make sure your striker (FP) safety and striker move freely, too.

More than likely it's either weak ammo or YOU! (So, tighten up your gun hand wrist, and pull down more on the frame with your support hand and arm.
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Old 03-24-2013, 19:37   #11
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No lubrification required, whatsoever..
I thought it was George Bush
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Old 03-24-2013, 19:53   #12
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I thought it was George Bush
Naaaa...dont be "blamin" old George....probably it was `your` chosen One since he`s still active...and since you mentioned it.
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Old 03-25-2013, 00:59   #13
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You shouldn't have any excess oil around the extractor, the oil will only accumulate fouling more quickly which will inhibit the free movement of the extractor and can cause failures to feed and failures to eject.

The FTF's could be an ammo issue or a magazine issue. If I'm not mistaken, being in Italy your G19 would be chambered in 9x21. Are there any numbers marked on the followers of your magazines? Are they 10-round magazines or 15-round magazines?

I'd try holding the gun more firmly in case it's caused by limp-wristing, if that doesn't fix the problem try some different brands of ammo if you can.
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Old 03-25-2013, 03:45   #14
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For god's sake, no lube on extractors or firing pins.
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Old 03-26-2013, 01:34   #15
tucojuanramirez
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try some different brands of ammo if you can.
Every time I use Fiocchi 124 gr. I have got some problems.
I'm pretty sure that every 35/40 rounds, one of them it's weak.
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Old 03-26-2013, 03:31   #16
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I've lightly lubed the extractor (where it's shiney from rubbing) since the 80's. Anything that is shiny from wear needs a thin layer as rust prevention IMO. Old School training. A thin layer of modern ester lubricant will leave a protective film when dry and there will be no accumulation of carbon beyond normal as well as making cleaning easier. Not that the force exerted by a spent cartridge does not have enough force to overcome the extractor spring's resistance, but lubricant surely aids the process as in any other mechanical area where metals meet via friction.
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Old 03-26-2013, 05:25   #17
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I've lightly lubed the extractor (where it's shiney from rubbing) since the 80's. Anything that is shiny from wear needs a thin layer as rust prevention IMO. Old School training. A thin layer of modern ester lubricant will leave a protective film when dry and there will be no accumulation of carbon beyond normal as well as making cleaning easier. Not that the force exerted by a spent cartridge does not have enough force to overcome the extractor spring's resistance, but lubricant surely aids the process as in any other mechanical area where metals meet via friction.
Exactly!
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:28   #18
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Originally Posted by WinterWizard View Post
For god's sake, no lube on extractors or firing pins.
easy there....there is no reason one cant wipe everything down with a oiled cloth, i am by no means suggesting that you put oil on everything, but there is nothing wrong with wiping everything down with an oiled cloth or a silicone gun cloth....
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:51   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiro Fijo View Post
I've lightly lubed the extractor (where it's shiney from rubbing) since the 80's. Anything that is shiny from wear needs a thin layer as rust prevention IMO. Old School training. A thin layer of modern ester lubricant will leave a protective film when dry and there will be no accumulation of carbon beyond normal as well as making cleaning easier. Not that the force exerted by a spent cartridge does not have enough force to overcome the extractor spring's resistance, but lubricant surely aids the process as in any other mechanical area where metals meet via friction.
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:53   #20
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Oil has three functions: lubrication (friction reduction), corrosion reduction, and wear reduction. At the same time we want to minimize fouling buildup and maximize reliability. Not all of these goals are complementary. For me the goal of reliability in a carry gun trumps all the others. Whatever you decide to use, test your system! I have found that a very thin layer of some lubes can attract fouling.
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Old 03-26-2013, 11:11   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tucojuanramirez View Post
ok, no lube...
I've read many threads about extractor's issue on G19gen4...
Since I clean the extractor (first time in my G19gen4 life) I've got two FTF, and so I supposed that I clean too much the extractor and where it's sitted, also the factory grease I thought.
Thank you.
Paolo
Lubrication on the extractor will make it more likely to fail, not less likely. Oil on the extractor claw can cause it to slip off the cartridge rim.

Also, most of what you read about extractor issues is nonsense, posted by people who barley know enough about their Glock to find the extractor.
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Old 03-26-2013, 11:47   #22
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Originally Posted by Bren View Post
Lubrication on the extractor will make it more likely to fail, not less likely. Oil on the extractor claw can cause it to slip off the cartridge rim.

Also, most of what you read about extractor issues is nonsense, posted by people who barley know enough about their Glock to find the extractor.

Sorry, but I have to disagree. But I am sure you know that those issues we hear about some of the newer Glocks are real, and that most of those issues are not caused by the shooter and/or the ammo. You just won't admit it.
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Old 03-26-2013, 16:23   #23
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Matter a fact, you don't want any oil in the inside of the slide.
Meaning the extractor bar or firing pin channel.
Only oil should be on the barrel and rails.
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Old 03-26-2013, 17:06   #24
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I have an light oil film in my striker channel, extractor, and in all the little channels in the slide. Probably not necessary, but I can't help it. I just have to pull out my q-tips with some CLP on it. Never had any problems in doing so. It depends how often you detail clean your slide. If you never or rarely detail strip it, then I would run those areas dry. If you like to detail strip your slide often like me then it's okay to apply an light oil film. Brass shavings, carbon, and other crap gets and stays in there anyway, most of it doesn't just blow out on the other end, even if you run those areas dry.

All my brand new Glocks which I have bought in recent years had some black oil and small bits of metal in the striker channel. If a dry striker channel is really that important, then I am sure Glock would completely dry those areas before the guns leave the factory.

Last edited by Made in Austria; 03-26-2013 at 17:11..
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Old 03-26-2013, 17:09   #25
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If all it takes is a drop of oil in the firing pin channel or extractor to cause a Glock to go down, they would not be worth owning.
Anyone who does basic maintenance once in a blue moon should never have a problem. I believe a little bit of water working it's way into the firing pin channel or around the extractor is a bigger problem than a drop of oil. A totally oil free part can rust very quickly if exposed to water. Every so often, I remove the firing pin and clean the channel with clp and remove as much of the excess as possible. I then clean the firing pin and give it and the extractor a very light coat of oil. My 11 Glocks run flawlessly.
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