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Old 02-04-2013, 13:59   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SBray View Post
Thanks Richard!

Maybe a second Dillon is in order, like a 650!

Now I just have to figure out how I can justify such a purchase.


Steve
Just to be clear.. the 1050 primes on the down stroke... the 650 primes on the upstroke (just like your 550)..

IGF
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The fire is no longer my major concern since I am leaving immediately on an unexpected road trip to Indianapolis. Watch the national news over the next couple of days, I'll wave... well, only if I'm cuffed in the front.
RIP Jack
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Old 02-04-2013, 17:21   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyGunFreak View Post
Just to be clear.. the 1050 primes on the down stroke... the 650 primes on the upstroke (just like your 550)..

IGF
IGF,

Thank you for clarifying that. My error!

Steve
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Old 02-12-2013, 14:46   #53
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I pulled the trigger and ordered everything. Now begins the wait. Now I need to look for powder, brass, primers, and bullets.

When it all comes in I will post up pics.
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Old 02-12-2013, 15:04   #54
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What did you order?
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Old 02-12-2013, 16:52   #55
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I guess that would help. lol

Ok, here goes:

Dillon XL 650 - Reloading machine
Dillon Carbide Pistol Dies (Three-Die Sets) --> .38/.357
3 added powder dies
3 additional tool heads
Dillon Case Lube
Dillon Powder Check
Dillon Roller Handle (Aluminum)
Dillon's XL 650 Toolholders XL 650 w/Wrench Set
Dillon's 'Eliminator' Scale
Primer Pickup Tubes, 2 Small, 2 Large
Speer Reloading Manual, Rifle & Pistol 14th edition
Walnut Hull Polishing Media
Caliber Conversion Kit to be Included: .38/.357 Magnum
XL 650 Caliber Conversion Kit --> 9mm/.38 Super
XL 650 Caliber Conversion Kit --> .40 S&W
XL 650 Caliber Conversion Kit --> .45 ACP
XL 650 Casefeeder
Casefeeder Plate Small Pistol
Casefeeder Size: Large Pistol Plate
RCBS Carbide 3-die sets in 40/45/9mm
Digital Calipers
Bullet puller hammer
Lyman 49th reloading manual
Lyman twin tumbler
Lyman media separator
Primer tray
2lbs of Universal
2lbs of WSF
1000 rds of 9mm brass (once fired)
1000 Berry 124gr FMJ round nose
5k CCI #500 SP Primers

I know I will likely have to add to it but this is the most expensive part and I needed to get it out of the way. I have a 5 week wait so I will be building a bench in my office in the meantime.

Did I miss anything obvious?
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Last edited by Glock 1; 02-13-2013 at 12:09..
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Old 02-12-2013, 16:54   #56
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I am looking for a 3rd manual. Any suggestions?
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Old 02-12-2013, 17:01   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glock 1 View Post
I am looking for a 3rd manual. Any suggestions?
Hornady 9th Edition - brand new...
I have the 8th Edition.

Richard
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:36   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glock 1 View Post
Any suggestions?
It looks like you only ordered 1 toolhead (the one that comes w/ the press)... if you're loading for 4 calibers.. you'll probably want to get 3 additional toolheads and 3 powder dies... or you're going to be constantly removing/resetting your dies.



IGF
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Originally Posted by GioaJack View Post
The fire is no longer my major concern since I am leaving immediately on an unexpected road trip to Indianapolis. Watch the national news over the next couple of days, I'll wave... well, only if I'm cuffed in the front.
RIP Jack
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:40   #59
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I was under the impression I would just be removing the dies themselves and that my settings would be saved by the lock collar an the die? If that is not the case then I will add that to my list of stuff to get.
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:44   #60
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Nevermind. I see what you mean. Consider them ordered. That will make caliber changes easy and I won't have to re-calibrate as long as I verify and use the same load data which I probably will once I find a good balance.

I will be aiming for a standard target load mostly. I am not out to blaze a path and set the range on fire. Not yet anyway lol.
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:29   #61
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Those of us with an even shorter attention span leave the powder measure on the toolhead. So, a multiplicity of powder measures.

The overspending can be expanded to include the powder check die if cost really isn't an issue.

Then, of course, we don't use just the standard powder measure adjustment screw, we add the UniqueTek micrometer adjuster.

I draw the line at the powder measure alarm. I only have one of those.

This reloading thing can get kind of pricey with a little imagination.

Richard
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:07   #62
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Don't buy three powder measures. That can wait and there are other cheaper options.
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:09   #63
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lol. I got the powder check die but I won't use it in the beginning. I was wondering about the powder measure. I think once I am comfortable with this machine and its workings I might move to make things a little easier with the multiple powder measure but I want to get used to this before I get more advanced. As it is I will be going very slow in the beginning to brush up on my knowledge and prevent mistakes. I am still doing alot of reading and will stick to safe loads until I have gotten back into the swing of things.
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:45   #64
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That is a good plan. Don't use the case feeder at the start. Instead manual drop one case every 5 pulls of the handle. After your sure its perfect reset the OAL with a full shell plate.
Instead of multiple powder measures you can get a a micrometer, a dial or multiple powder bars.
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:16   #65
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Loading just one case at a time in the drop tube is an easy way to concentrate on just one thing at a time.

However, this approach will also have a bunch of new but unused primers skiing down the ramp. It would pay to have a better scheme for catching them. Maybe build up the side walls with cardboard. This is easier to see when you have the press in front of you.

The thing about the 650 is that it presents a primer on every handle pull. If the primer isn't seated into a case, it rotates to the drop chute on the next handle pull.

Richard
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:22   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F106 Fan View Post
Loading just one case at a time in the drop tube is an easy way to concentrate on just one thing at a time.

However, this approach will also have a bunch of new but unused primers skiing down the ramp. It would pay to have a better scheme for catching them. Maybe build up the side walls with cardboard. This is easier to see when you have the press in front of you.
Just remove the part that indexes the primer disk (I think it's called the primer cam). Takes 3sec to put on/remove. In order to index the primer disk without the cam, just index it with your thumb. When you're ready to go full throttle, just put the cam back on.

IGF
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The fire is no longer my major concern since I am leaving immediately on an unexpected road trip to Indianapolis. Watch the national news over the next couple of days, I'll wave... well, only if I'm cuffed in the front.
RIP Jack
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:23   #67
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That is my plan. Kill the automated stuff and load individual rounds into batches of 25 (labeled of course) to take to the range to see what works best in my guns. Keep targets and track performance of the individual loads.

My dad loaded some lead cast SWC with a powder (he said it was Bullseye) that was so smokey and nasty smelling I was getting FTF after only 50 rounds in a clean G21SF and the smoke was unbelievable! The inside of the gun was black with soot. I have never had that happen with Bullseye. Add to that we were ar an indoor range with bad ventilation and lots of shooters and it was not a very fun experience. Not to mention the looks I got from other shooters. He hated the rounds so much he took them all apart and reloaded them. He had a thousand of them. I would like to avoid that.
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Last edited by Glock 1; 02-13-2013 at 08:26..
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:27   #68
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For the 650, the magic number is 6.

It takes six manual steps of the primer mechanism to get a primer in the proper place for the first case coming down the drop tube.

You will see a little metallic lever that is part of the ratchet system. Cycle it 6 times to set up the first primer. Then load cases in the drop tube (manually or with the case feeder).

Richard
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:34   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyGunFreak View Post
Just remove the part that indexes the primer disk (I think it's called the primer cam). Takes 3sec to put on/remove. In order to index the primer disk without the cam, just index it with your thumb. When you're ready to go full throttle, just put the cam back on.

IGF
Here's a fellow who made a special little washer that holds the mechanism in a released state so the ratchet doesn't work.


Another thing: You can use a .38 SPL case to hold the case feeder mechanism in a disabled position.


Richard
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:37   #70
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Can't wait to get it and get it setup. Its ashamed I just started my wait. lol
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:41   #71
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By the way, for another manual.. I love the "Loadbooks". They are typically dedicated to 1 caliber, and have data compiled from numerous sources, and have a wide variety of powders, bullet profiles, etc. They run about $7 each on Midway(but of course they are out of stock at the moment). I have one for all the calibers I load and like them.

http://www.loadbooks.com/untitled.html

I typically use my Lyman and a Loadbook to check my data. You can also see this site, which is again a compilation of data from powder companies (use caution though, as this site can also allow users to post data... but it's clear when data is listed on a powder manufacturers website and what is user submitted.)

http://handloads.org/loaddata/default.asp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GioaJack View Post
The fire is no longer my major concern since I am leaving immediately on an unexpected road trip to Indianapolis. Watch the national news over the next couple of days, I'll wave... well, only if I'm cuffed in the front.
RIP Jack

Last edited by IndyGunFreak; 02-13-2013 at 08:53..
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:02   #72
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Easist way to disable the casefeeder is simply to drill a small hole in the tube, stick a paperclip through it. Viola. No more cases will fall. You will have about two cases left. Manually cycle the case shuttle if you like. Drill the hole at the right level for the cases you use the most.
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:58   #73
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Can't wait to get it and get it setup. Its ashamed I just started my wait. lol
It's going to be worth it! The 650 is a magnificent press. It's easy to set up, caliber changes are straightforward and it's FAST.

Richard
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:44   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F106 Fan View Post
It's going to be worth it! The 650 is a magnificent press. It's easy to set up, caliber changes are straightforward and it's FAST.

Richard
Totally agree.. If ever I've had regrets in the past about a $1500 purchase... the 650 is definitely not it.
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The fire is no longer my major concern since I am leaving immediately on an unexpected road trip to Indianapolis. Watch the national news over the next couple of days, I'll wave... well, only if I'm cuffed in the front.
RIP Jack
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:58   #75
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I loved my 550 for the longest time. The 650 is a step up from that. I need to stop looking at 1050's. They are even nicer. But for me, I can't use a bullet feeder because I shoot lead and my lead bullets are not "clean enough" from the lubing machine to ever expect them to work with a bullet feeder. So with out a bullet feeder I am personally convinced that a 1050 is no faster then a 650. For the life of me I can never seat the bullet before I am done pushing to prime. I am always done pushing to prime and I am still seating the bullet. I know the 1050 is nicer but it just wasn't worth the extra $600. 650 is darn near the perfect press.
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