[EL_NinO619]

Anyone try these, I just ordered for 9mm, .45acp, .223 and .308. The sizer die and shell holder on the rifle intrigues me.
Tips, tricks, experience.


http://www.redding-reloading.com/ind...eries-die-sets


http://www.redding-reloading.com/new...-match-die-set


http://www.redding-reloading.com/onl...ellholder-sets


I just bought Dillon .45acp dies also, I was going to sell the Hornady dies, but now I am thinking selling the Dillon dies to recupe some money, but I hate the Hornady dies.

[F106 Fan]

I use the Redding seater die for 9mm although I prefer the Dillon. I use it because I experiment with different bullets and the micrometer is nice.

I use the Redding Competition Neck Sizing sets for precision rifle in .308, .223 and 6.5x284 Norma. I really like their dies.

The bushings for the Neck Sizing dies are EXPENSIVE! It's best to get the right diameter the first time. So it gets down to how much tension do you want and which variation of brass are you using? For no other reason than the cost of bushings, I try to use only Lapua brass with the hope that the neck thickness doesn't vary.

For fast reloading, I don't think you can beat the Dillon dies. They have some very nice features, among others: the spring loaded decapping pin will abolutely not allow a primer to suck back in the case and the ease of cleaning the seating die when using lubed lead bullets.

Richard

[ron59]

I only use the Redding Competition Seating dies.... love them, so easy to adjust, simply spin the micrometer dial.

The set is pretty expensive though, don't believe the sizing die is any better than a Lee, and crimp dies are simple/cheap.

[EL_NinO619]

Originally Posted by F106 Fan

I use the Redding seater die for 9mm although I prefer the Dillon. I use it because I experiment with different bullets and the micrometer is nice.

I use the Redding Competition Neck Sizing sets for precision rifle in .308, .223 and 6.5x284 Norma. I really like their dies.

The bushings for the Neck Sizing dies are EXPENSIVE! It's best to get the right diameter the first time. So it gets down to how much tension do you want and which variation of brass are you using? For no other reason than the cost of bushings, I try to use only Lapua brass with the hope that the neck thickness doesn't vary.

For fast reloading, I don't think you can beat the Dillon dies. They have some very nice features, among others: the spring loaded decapping pin will abolutely not allow a primer to suck back in the case and the ease of cleaning the seating die when using lubed lead bullets.

Richard

Thanks. I know that's why I don't want to part with the Dillon .45acp dies. Have you used those shellholders for neck adjustment?

[Boxerglocker]

For .223 AR stuff I like the the Dillon FL sizer as they are "small base" and have the stuck case extraction feature built in.
I use the a LEE neck sizing collet die for precision .223 to size the form fired stuff.
I like the the competition seater and have/use them for my 9mm on the 650 and on my LNL SS for the precision rifle loading. The 1050 is dedicated to .223 AR loading and I just use the Dillon seater and taper on those. I have plenty of components that those will newer need adjusting for a long time.

[EL_NinO619]

I am going to run Dillon dies on the 1050 since that's my volume press. I mainly got them for bench rest stuff. I want to get back to working up some "hand Loads" and not just volume. I was not even going to get the .223 dies but I plan on eventually getting a precision .223. I think I will just bite the bullet, sell the Hornadys, use the Dillon .45 on the 1050 and Reddings when I am working up loads etc on SS. I was hoping someone would tell me to just keep the Hornady .45 dies for a spare and sell the Dillon's, but I must be delusional to hope for that on here

Are the dillon dies stainless steel, I am no metallurgist but they look like a better grade steel that would resist rust. I also like the seater die on the dillon, the mouth is nearly twice the size of the stupid hornady die. I hate that bullet sleeve thing, when you get cranking its a nightmare.

[alank2]

Hi,

Redding Pro series dies are my favorite for loading on my 550. Redding's TiC die for 9mm actually tapers a 9mm case properly.

Good luck,

Alan

[Boxerglocker]

Originally Posted by EL_NinO619

I am going to run Dillon dies on the 1050 since that's my volume press. I mainly got them for bench rest stuff. I want to get back to working up some "hand Loads" and not just volume. I was not even going to get the .223 dies but I plan on eventually getting a precision .223. I think I will just bite the bullet, sell the Hornadys, use the Dillon .45 on the 1050 and Reddings when I am working up loads etc on SS. I was hoping someone would tell me to just keep the Hornady .45 dies for a spare and sell the Dillon's, but I must be delusional to hope for that on here

Are the dillon dies stainless steel, I am no metallurgist but they look like a better grade steel that would resist rust. I also like the seater die on the dillon, the mouth is nearly twice the size of the stupid hornady die. I hate that bullet sleeve thing, when you get cranking its a nightmare.

If your going to run precision .223 out of your AR, just use LC brass prepped with your RT1200B. If from a bolt gun, bite the bullet as I did following Hozers lead get some Lapua match brass, form fire and just neck size for 3-4 firings, anneal, then FL size/trim and start over again.

[Colorado4Wheel]

1050 comes with dies.

[shotgunred]

Originally Posted by EL_NinO619

Are the dillon dies stainless steel, I am no metallurgist but they look like a better grade steel that would resist rust. I also like the seater die on the dillon, the mouth is nearly twice the size of the stupid hornady die. I hate that bullet sleeve thing, when you get cranking its a nightmare.

My lee dies rust.
My Dillon don't rust.

Of course I lee my Lee dies outside and my Dillon dies inside and coated with oil.

Just kidding on the same shelf, no oil.

[n2extrm]

I use the redding stuff for rifle. I have the comp neck dies and I like them. As others said the bushings are pricey, but you can find people on rifle reloading forums that are looking to trade or sell/buy used bushings.

Brass maters. There are huge differences sometimes and you can have some real neck tension problems if your not careful. As mentioned above if you use lapua or Norma brass you will get better consistency in the product. So you are more likely not buying as many bushings. But you will pay more for the brass. Reality is if you are neck sizing, not running max loads or over pressure really, the brass lasts a pretty long time in calibers like .223 .308 even my 6mm BR stuff has lasted 10 loading no issue at all.

Even if you do take them apart to clean them, you can reset them because they are marked.

[EL_NinO619]

Originally Posted by Boxerglocker

If your going to run precision .223 out of your AR, just use LC brass prepped with your RT1200B. If from a bolt gun, bite the bullet as I did following Hozers lead get some Lapua match brass, form fire and just neck size for 3-4 firings, anneal, then FL size/trim and start over again.

I'm not going to be doing any "precision" out of my 16", plan is to get a 20+" bbl with a new upper, or one of the 80%er's. I was more thinking a nice .223 bolt gun just for the local 300 yard range. And I was going to order Lapua brass the other day from grafs, placed in cart and checked out, got a email in the morning saying I was to slow...

C4W, I know but I got a sweet deal on these dies.

[EL_NinO619]

Originally Posted by n2extrm

I use the redding stuff for rifle. I have the comp neck dies and I like them. As others said the bushings are pricey, but you can find people on rifle reloading forums that are looking to trade or sell/buy used bushings.

Brass maters. There are huge differences sometimes and you can have some real neck tension problems if your not careful. As mentioned above if you use lapua or Norma brass you will get better consistency in the product. So you are more likely not buying as many bushings. But you will pay more for the brass. Reality is if you are neck sizing, not running max loads or over pressure really, the brass lasts a pretty long time in calibers like .223 .308 even my 6mm BR stuff has lasted 10 loading no issue at all.

Even if you do take them apart to clean them, you can reset them because they are marked.

Good to know, I am going to have to bite the bullet on Lapua brass, but I won't be going to GB and biting a .50cal and paying 3x the price.

Has anyone used Harnady Match brass?

[fredj338]

I like the Hornady brass. It's ahead of Rem or Win, certainly Federal, everything is ahead of Federal.

[EL_NinO619]

Originally Posted by fredj338

I like the Hornady brass. It's ahead of Rem or Win, certainly Federal, everything is ahead of Federal.

The other day I saw someone post that Hozer only liked Federal brass, I thought to myself really, WHY? Maybe it was a inside joke, because fed is not that great. I think I will try Hornady first, but really I will try anyone that is in stock first. I miss the slow methodical process of handloading. Everything recently has been how many in how long, I want to just sit down, measure each case, chamfur/debur, trickle the powder and get every round perfect.

[F106 Fan]

Originally Posted by EL_NinO619

The other day I saw someone post that Hozer only liked Federal brass, I thought to myself really, WHY? Maybe it was a inside joke, because fed is not that great. I think I will try Hornady first, but really I will try anyone that is in stock first. I miss the slow methodical process of handloading. Everything recently has been how many in how long, I want to just sit down, measure each case, chamfur/debur, trickle the powder and get every round perfect.

I thought you just bought at 1050... That isn't a machine that screams "measure everything" to me!

Maybe I had my sarcasm meter turned off; that happens from time to time.

EDIT: Now I get it, you are thinking about precision rifle, not dumpster quantities of pistol ammo. Now it makes sense!

Richard

[F106 Fan]

Originally Posted by EL_NinO619

Thanks. I know that's why I don't want to part with the Dillon .45acp dies. Have you used those shellholders for neck adjustment?

No, I haven't. I read about them but since the Redding Neck Sizing Die doesn't bump the shoulder, they didn't seem to make sense. I CAN adjust the Redding die to size more or less of the neck (right now I am at max) but nothing in the process sizes the case or the shoulder. For bolt-action precision rifle, that makes sense to me.

Richard

[EL_NinO619]

Originally Posted by F106 Fan

I thought you just bought at 1050... That isn't a machine that screams "measure everything" to me!

Maybe I had my sarcasm meter turned off; that happens from time to time.

EDIT: Now I get it, you are thinking about precision rifle, not dumpster quantities of pistol ammo. Now it makes sense!

Richard

No I love maximum output, but sometimes I miss the old school way. I could be a little off the rocker also...

[shotgunred]

Well you live in cali and like guns So it only stands to reason your a little off.

[EL_NinO619]

Originally Posted by shotgunred

Well you live in cali and like guns So it only stands to reason your a little off.

Low blow.. But its also a complement, I don't mind being called a little off, when the norm out here is Nancy Pelosi, Barber Boxer, Diane Fienstien and Moon Beam. Plus the SF crowd, people who like raising their own taxes. So ya according to all those people, I am bat s*** crazy, and I can live with that...

[fredj338]

Originally Posted by EL_NinO619

The other day I saw someone post that Hozer only liked Federal brass, I thought to myself really, WHY? Maybe it was a inside joke, because fed is not that great. I think I will try Hornady first, but really I will try anyone that is in stock first. I miss the slow methodical process of handloading. Everything recently has been how many in how long, I want to just sit down, measure each case, chamfur/debur, trickle the powder and get every round perfect.

BTW, most of my custom rifle dies are from Redding. They make a very good, if not expensive die set.
Federal may have changed their brass in the last 10yrs or so, but evn the vaunted GMM was crap. Loading the same loads in it as say Norma, I lose primer pockets in as little as 5 reloads. So it tells me the brass is quite soft in the crucial head area. The only pistol brass I have seen fail w/ midrange loads is Federal. So for me, no Federal brass for anything running higher pressures. There are better choices. Lapua, RWS, Norma, Nosler, Hornady, Win, Rem in that order.