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Old 01-28-2013, 23:37   #1
Specialized
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7lbs 5oz G36 With A 3.5 Ghost Rocket?

Okay, I'm fairly new to the innards of Glocks, but I'm not getting this at all. The Ghost Rocket 3.5 Connector supposedly goes into the gun with some fitting (which wasn't difficult at all), and it's supposed to deliver a 3.5lb trigger pull, or something like that. After putting one in a used G36 I recently bought in hopes of helping the almost-9lb trigger that came with it, two things were surprising to me off the bat: first, it already had a Ghost connector (angle looks like a 3.5lb), and second, even after the new connector and the 0.25 cent trigger job, this thing feels like crap. I am open for suggestions as to how something so supposedly simple can be so mystifying.

It has a trigger spring that's brown plastic with a spring in it, and this thing feels like it binds EVERYWHERE. So I have a few questions:

1. Which way do the pins go in? the front block pin and trigger pin have an extra "stripe" (detent) in them; which end goes in first?

2. Are there diagrams somewhere that show the order in which these parts go in for reassembly? It appears that the trigger pin must go in first (because it seems the angle of the slide release to get the pin in mandates it), but then my slide release spring blocks the hole for the smaller front block pin. Or am I somehow doing all this out of sequence?

Everything about this gun's trigger area seems to be binding on the trigger bar, so I assume I have something goofed up. Any help you could provide would be much appreciated. Next steps are to go back through the step-by-step directions and videos, but I've not caught the problem so far. Thanks!
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Old 01-29-2013, 19:46   #2
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1. The pins can go in either way. Makes no difference.

2. The trigger pin comes out first and goes back in first. After the trigger pin is installed, the slide lock lever goes in next. Its spring is tensioned under the trigger pin. Then, the narrower locking block pin goes in. If the slide lock spring is in the way, jiggle the slide lock lever until you can push the locking pin in.

Not aware of any diagrams that show the sequence, but the YouTube vids should get you through it.

HTH.
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Old 01-29-2013, 22:31   #3
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That trigger spring (brown with a spring in it) is the culprit. Otherwise known as the NY1 trigger- so NYC cops could not shoot the Glock without thinking they had revolvers. Silly device--decreases risk of shooter hitting anything or shooting anyone.

Take the brown thing out and try it again. See how you like it after, and report back.

You do not achieve a 3.5# trigger by just a connector change alone-- that's why Glock changed the name to (-)-- you have to do other things that are not worth the compromise. You will have about a 5# trigger.
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Old 01-29-2013, 23:56   #4
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cciman is correct. Just remember if you remove the NY1 trigger spring to replace it with a correct coil spring. A stock coil type spring and the 3.5 connector will give about a 4# pull on take-up and a 5# on break. To get it less than that you need to replace the striker spring with a lighter one, but light primer strikes and failure to fires may occur
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Old 01-30-2013, 20:06   #5
GKglock324
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Same situation with G30 sf..

I replaced the connector with a glockworks V4 race connector (3 1/2 connector) and 6lb trigger spring..but kept the striker spring stock because of the light primer strike possibility. I don't quite get the travel, and then stop..then snap as I do with the stock connector. Glock .45s are particular it seems because in order to lighten the pull, the striker spring has to be changed. HMMM.. I ordered a Zev Tech Duty Ultimate Fulcrum trigger for the G30 sf.
My G23 Gen4 with 3 1/2 lb Ghost Rocket connector, 4 lb striker spring, and 6lb trigger spring has a consistent 3.5 lb break..predicable take up, then stops, then snaps. No over travel
Wish my G30 sf trigger was this good. Good luck bro.
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Old 01-30-2013, 21:14   #6
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All good info, thank you for the feedback. I have discovered that with a 6lb trigger spring and lightened plunger spring along with the Ghost Rocket (these are the Ghost Spring Kit springs too) and the stock firing pin spring, the trigger pull is about 5.5lbs when it breaks. Not great, but not bad. All smoother due to the polishing (25-cent trigger job), but ideal would be about 4lb pull.

Has anybody messed with the sear/striker interface? I may do some polishing there as well to see if I can make it bind less. Works great on M&P's, and I figure they took the concept from Glock anyway.
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Old 01-30-2013, 22:35   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Specialized View Post
Has anybody messed with the sear/striker interface? I may do some polishing there as well to see if I can make it bind less.
We call these statements famous last words..."Help! My Glock suddenly doubles/triples!" is the typical title of your next thread...
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Old 01-30-2013, 22:40   #8
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Do we have any Glock certified armorers on here?

Page 24 of the Glock Armorers Manual:

Locking Block Pin Removal

THE LOCKING BLOCK PIN SHOULD BE THE FIRST PIN REMOVED (FIG.29), AND MUST BE THE FIRST PIN PUT IN OVER THE TRIGGER DURING REASSEMBLY.

Page 34:

The locking block pin is the first pin out during assembly and the first pin in during reaaembly.

CAUTION: If you install the locking block pin after inserting the slide stop lever, you will bend and damage the slide stop lever spring.

The slide stop lever spring bears on the locking block pin.
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:25   #9
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Weste - You're reading it correctly. Above was incorrect. Locking block pin 1st out and 1st back in. It will either bend the spring tail or push it above the pin if done the other way. Either way will result in fixing or replacing something due to improper slide stop function.
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:20   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Specialized View Post
....... I have discovered that with a 6lb trigger spring and lightened plunger spring along with the Ghost Rocket (these are the Ghost Spring Kit springs too) and the stock firing pin spring, the trigger pull is about 5.5lbs when it breaks. Not great, but not bad. All smoother due to the polishing (25-cent trigger job), but ideal would be about 4lb pull.

Has anybody messed with the sear/striker interface? I may do some polishing there as well to see if I can make it bind less. Works great on M&P's, and I figure they took the concept from Glock anyway.
You should be aware that a so-called, '3.5#' connector actually produces a trigger pull at, or above, 4.5#'s. The standard coil spring should be installed in the shape of an, 'S' and not a, 'Z' when the trigger mechanism is viewed from the right-hand side with the trigger in your right-hand, and the THU in your left-hand.

Personally I've had the best results using Wolff Gunsprings throughout my Glocks. I use 6# striker AND trigger springs. 'Why'? Because trigger pull weight is not the only criterion by which to evaluate a Glock's trigger. RESET is, also, important; and the above components give me the cleanest, crispest break on the sear while firing from reset.

Make sure you polish your striker (FP) safety and firing pin well. As for myself? I strongly recommend that you do NOT use reduced weight springs in an EDC Glock. My own cumulative trigger pull weights average between 4.9 and 5.2#'s when measured from the center of the trigger's face; and, as I've said, the break is very clean.

LEAVE THE GLOCK TRIGGER BAR, 'KICK-PLATE' AND STRIKER LUG CONFIGURATION ALONE. Even a little bit of fooling around with it (polishing) can make your Glock highly unstable and prone to, 'ND'.
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:42   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weste View Post
Do we have any Glock certified armorers on here?

Page 24 of the Glock Armorers Manual: Locking Block Pin Removal

THE LOCKING BLOCK PIN SHOULD BE THE FIRST PIN REMOVED (FIG.29), AND MUST BE THE FIRST PIN PUT IN OVER THE TRIGGER DURING REASSEMBLY.

Page 34:

The locking block pin is the first pin out during assembly and the first pin in during reaaembly.

CAUTION: If you install the locking block pin after inserting the slide stop lever, you will bend and damage the slide stop lever spring.

The slide stop lever spring bears on the locking block pin.
Do we, really, need a certified armorer for this? Proper frame pin removal and insertion is, 'Basic Glocking 101'.

REMOVAL: Working from the left side of the frame to the right. Pin #1, (The lock block pin); Pin #2, (The trigger pin); and Pin #3 (The trigger housing unit pin.)

INSTALLATION: Working from the right side of the frame to the left. Pin #1 always goes in first. Now - depending upon whether you believe the Armorer's Manual, or not - either Pin #2 goes in next, or (for some goofy reason) Pin #3 is presently recommended to go in before Pin #2. (Like a Glock's cheap plastic frame is a precision rifle stock!)

Personally, I started out 10 years ago using the recommended order of: '1, 2, 3' for both removal and insertion; and, at the present time I have absolutely no good reason to change. If you have trouble getting the number two pin in, simply giggle the slide stop up and down, or backwards and forwards until it slips in.

IT, ALSO, HELPS TO USE THE SHAFT OF YOUR ARMORER'S TOOL IN ORDER TO ALIGN THE PARTS BEFORE YOU BEGIN RUNNING EACH PIN INTO ITS RESPECTIVE HOLE.

WHEN YOU GET CLOSE TO THE FRAME, PLACE THE TIPS OF YOUR FINGERS ON THE TIP OF THE ARMORER'S TOOL AND FINISH PUSHING THE PIN INTO THE HOLE IN THIS WAY. (YOU'LL BE LESS LIKELY TO SCRATCH THE FRAME IF YOU DO IT LIKE THIS.)
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Old 02-09-2013, 11:49   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SiGlockBoy View Post
Weste - You're reading it correctly. Above was incorrect. Locking block pin 1st out and 1st back in. It will either bend the spring tail or push it above the pin if done the other way. Either way will result in fixing or replacing something due to improper slide stop function.
Excellent advice -- and it took me a while to figure this out. I don't know why I didn't think of it earlier, except I just got the notion in my head to reassemble in reverse order from a comment in one of the videos that was recommended to me. When I thought about why it didn't fit and why there wasn't some provision for where the tail of that spring could go, the only conclusion that made sense was to put the lock block pin back in first, instead of last. And I did have to reshape the spring tail a little bit after bending it slightly trying to get the lock block pin in after inserting the slide catch.

I have to get an armorer's book on Glocks. Anybody have a recommendation on the best text?
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Old 02-09-2013, 12:00   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arc Angel View Post
You should be aware that a so-called, '3.5#' connector actually produces a trigger pull at, or above, 4.5#'s.
I had read this in a few different places, makes sense. Though I have seen some 9mm 17's and 19's that had very nice 3lb triggers, I know that the 10mm's and .45's need heavier FP springs to be reliable, which increases trigger pull weight.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arc Angel View Post
The standard coil spring should be installed in the shape of an, 'S' and not a, 'Z' when the trigger mechanism is viewed from the right-hand side with the trigger in your right-hand, and the THU in your left-hand.
I had seen this on the videos and followed it carefully. What I don't know is what happens if you get it backwards -- what's the effect of that?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arc Angel View Post
Personally I've had the best results using Wolff Gunsprings throughout my Glocks. I use 6# striker AND trigger springs.
You're the second person to mention this -- I'm going to order some Wolff springs and see what differences they make. Thanks for the tip.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arc Angel View Post
Make sure you polish your striker (FP) safety and firing pin well. As for myself? I strongly recommend that you do NOT use reduced weight springs in an EDC Glock.
I agree, based on what I've heard that doing so can do to reliability. And I carry this G36 most of the time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arc Angel View Post
LEAVE THE GLOCK TRIGGER BAR, 'KICK-PLATE' AND STRIKER LUG CONFIGURATION ALONE. Even a little bit of fooling around with it (polishing) can make your Glock highly unstable and prone to, 'ND'.
That would be a bad thing. Thanks for all the great tips, I really appreciate it!
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:45   #14
Arc Angel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Specialized View Post
....... (Ref: Backwards trigger springs)(Ed.) I had seen this on the videos and followed it carefully. What I don't know is what happens if you get it backwards -- what's the effect of that?
Your backwards trigger spring will have a tendency to slip off one of its contact points and will be prone to premature snapping and failure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Specialized View Post
You're the second person to mention this -- I'm going to order some Wolff springs and see what differences they make. Thanks for the tip.
You're welcome.

The reason, 'Why' you want to put a high polish on the WHOLE striker safety plunger and the firing pin is because - of all the components in a Glock trigger mechanism - it is the striker safety plunger that offers the greatest amount of mechanical friction during the trigger pull.

Be sure to put a high polish on the trigger bar's safety plunger, 'actuating cam' too. The smoother these components are the smoother your Glock's trigger will work; BUT, remember to leave the contact surfaces between the striker lug, and the trigger bar's, 'kick plate' (sear) strictly alone. You don't ever want these parts to skid or, 'stack' on you.

The advantage you'll realize from using heavier 6# trigger and striker springs (in combination with a standard weight, or heavier, recoil spring) is a much cleaner break when using a Glock trigger from its reset position.
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Old 02-12-2013, 13:54   #15
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Ya know, Arc Angel, I've about decided you know what you're talking about. Went back and polished the safety plunger and striker/FP to a near-mirror finish, and it really helped a lot. I now have a 4lb 4oz trigger that breaks pretty cleanly, and here's what it took:

1. Installation of a Ghost Rocket 3.5lb connector.
2. A "25-cent trigger job" polishing session.
3. Replacement of the NY-1 trigger spring with a 6lb trigger spring.
4. Replacement of the FP safety plunger spring with the one from the Ghost spring kit.
5. Polished all bearing surfaces on the safety plunger.
6. Polished all bearing surfaces on the extractor plunger (don't think this helped trigger pull).
7. Polished entire striker/firing pin.
8. Thoroughly cleaned and lightly polished the striker/FP tunnel and safety plunger tunnel.
9. Polished the center rail on the underside of the slide (no relation to trigger pull).

When completed, I oiled it with the ceremonial single-drop of oil per Glock instructions, and reassembled. I now have a pretty decent, crisp 4lb 4oz trigger pull, down from the original 7lb 5oz pull from before. When I got it the gun was stock with the exception of a Ghost 3.5lb drop-in connector.

It's a shame that so much has to be done to get a decent trigger pull on one of these, but it's worth the small effort and expense to do it. Contrast that with H&K's, where there's really nothing one can do to make a good trigger -- their lawyers must get paid better or something. Anyway, thanks to all for your suggestions and tips!

Last edited by Specialized; 02-12-2013 at 13:56..
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Old 02-13-2013, 05:19   #16
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Quote:
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Contrast that with H&K's, where there's really nothing one can do to make a good trigger -- their lawyers must get paid better or something. Anyway, thanks to all for your suggestions and tips!

your kidding right? have you ever tried a usp tatical or mark23 trigger? Their pretty freaken sweet.
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Old 02-14-2013, 11:48   #17
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your kidding right? have you ever tried a usp tatical or mark23 trigger? Their pretty freaken sweet.
No, I'm not kidding. I don't want to have to pay $1,000 or better just to get a decent trigger. I've never cared for HK's attitude toward the civilian marketplace, that's part of it as well. Just my opinion. Your mileage may vary.
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Old 02-20-2013, 19:28   #18
Arc Angel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Specialized View Post
Ya know, Arc Angel, I've about decided you know what you're talking about. Went back and polished the safety plunger and striker/FP to a near-mirror finish, and it really helped a lot. I now have a 4lb 4oz trigger that breaks pretty cleanly, and here's what it took:

1. Installation of a Ghost Rocket 3.5lb connector.
2. A "25-cent trigger job" polishing session.
3. Replacement of the NY-1 trigger spring with a 6lb trigger spring.
4. Replacement of the FP safety plunger spring with the one from the Ghost spring kit.
5. Polished all bearing surfaces on the safety plunger.
6. Polished all bearing surfaces on the extractor plunger (don't think this helped trigger pull).
7. Polished entire striker/firing pin.
8. Thoroughly cleaned and lightly polished the striker/FP tunnel and safety plunger tunnel.
9. Polished the center rail on the underside of the slide (no relation to trigger pull).

When completed, I oiled it with the ceremonial single-drop of oil per Glock instructions, and reassembled. I now have a pretty decent, crisp 4lb 4oz trigger pull, down from the original 7lb 5oz pull from before. When I got it the gun was stock with the exception of a Ghost 3.5lb drop-in connector.

It's a shame that so much has to be done to get a decent trigger pull on one of these, but it's worth the small effort and expense to do it. Contrast that with H&K's, where there's really nothing one can do to make a good trigger -- their lawyers must get paid better or something. Anyway, thanks to all for your suggestions and tips!
You're welcome! Good luck to you.
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