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Old 02-02-2013, 16:18   #21
toshbar
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Is your hammer hitting the rails on its swing? If I push my hammer side to side it will hit the rails, but when firing, it has never light striked and the hammer is always centered when I take the bolt carrier out.
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Old 02-02-2013, 17:41   #22
jbremount
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From what I know, You first have to make sure you have the trigger axis pin and hammer axis pin secured with a Shepard's crook or better, an axis pin retaining plate. If you installed a hammer that has been "modified" for use with the Bolt Hold lever, it will be shorter on one side. The side closer to the lever. You will need to add a washer in it's place to make up for the space if the Bolt Hold lever is not used. That will center the hammer.
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Old 02-02-2013, 18:08   #23
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From your picture, your hammer looks like it may be hitting the rails or the "hammer axis pin" is not pushed in correctly. Maybe it the illusion of the picture. For the hammer to hit the rails during it swing should be almost impossible if parts are correct or in spec. What kind of aftermarket hammer or fire control internals are you using? You probably could run a test with the original Saiga's hammer and a small washer/spacer on the side the BHO lever is on. The hammer should never touch the rails in its swing to hit the firing pin.

The BHO lever on the Saiga is not original AK fire control internals. Some toss it out to make it as reliable as the original fire control internals, some keep it as an extra feature of a sporting rifle.
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Old 02-02-2013, 18:50   #24
mjkeat
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No BHO on this one. I'll check the hammer but I don't recall it rubbing or anything interfering w/ it's movement.
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Old 02-02-2013, 19:47   #25
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No BHO on this one. I'll check the hammer but I don't recall it rubbing or anything interfering w/ it's movement.

What brand of hammer/trigger are you using?
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Old 02-02-2013, 20:50   #26
toshbar
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Tapco G2 single hook. I did grind the sides of the hammer though where the pin goes through because I used to have the bolt hold open.
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Old 02-02-2013, 22:00   #27
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Tapco G2 single hook. I did grind the sides of the hammer though where the pin goes through because I used to have the bolt hold open.

If you grinded the sides, you now have to fill that space with a washer of similar diameter to the material you took off to keep the hammer in the center.

IMO, best not to grind on the Tapco G2 hammer. You can open up a can of worms if you grind off too much or later take out the BHO lever and use that hammer. Why not use the Saiga's original hammer with the BHO lever. You can't put metal back.
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Old 02-02-2013, 22:08   #28
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If you grinded the sides, you now have to fill that space with a washer of similar diameter to the material you took off to keep the hammer in the center.

IMO, best not to grind on the Tapco G2 hammer. You can open up a can of worms if you grind off too much or later take out the BHO lever and use that hammer. Why not use the Saiga's original hammer with the BHO lever. You can't put metal back.
The hammer spring keeps the hammer pretty well centered, even with the missing material at the ends of the pivot sleeve.

I have ground, polished, and welded pretravel and overtravel adjustments on my G2. It's not going anywhere. Worst case, I buy another $25 G2 trigger pack and start over.
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Old 02-03-2013, 00:11   #29
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Nice story. How?
He installed the trigger pin above the spring with a twist so that the trigger was still engaged by the spring. It caused the trigger to require a greater amount of force to squeeze it. Also, he had the shepherds hook on top of the hammer pin. It was awkward, and as he put it- "unreasonably difficult to install." I think the shepherds hook was binding with the hammer spring coils too. Anyway, properly positioning everything did the trick.
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Old 02-03-2013, 08:05   #30
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Thank you., everyone. I'm going to get it out and see if I can work it out.

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