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Old 06-09-2006, 06:42   #26
Hank Frank
Join Date: May 2006
Location: St. Louis, Mo.
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Thanks for the info. I'll try the baseball cap either today or for sure this weekend.

Duck of Death:

The Rohrbaugh is a great little gun, but like you, I would rather have the frame in steel. I feel I have to "baby" the gun more than any other gun I own.

I've not tried the MMC rear with the Dawson f/o front. Lately,I've been messing with the Heinie Slant Pro. I even kinda like the front and rear combination they give you, reminds me of my 1911's. I did start changing one of the front sight combo's to a fiber optic. Presently, I can't decide if I like red, green or orange fiber, and then to complicate matters, whether I should use .090, .105, or .125 fiber. I think I'm myself's worse enemey...I complicate things too much, but its fun and a challenge. Someday, I would like to discuss the rear sight opening. I'm trying to research what opening Brian Enos used on a rear sight. (some sort of a triangle cut)

Also, do you know the weight of the striker once you've reduced its mass. I will then have a end result to achieve.

And for some reason, I can't comprehend how to reslot the trigger, in order to make the trigger safety operable. If I notch the frame itself, will I beable to restore the gun to original, if I decide to sell it? I removed the plastic trigger from the trigger bar last night, but all I did was look at it. One would think this could be an area where some modifications/improvements could take place.

Have a good day.

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Old 06-09-2006, 09:23   #27
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Striker weight--I have no idea, but it's light enough with 7 coils off the OEM striker spring to light off CCI primers.

I DP fiber optic front sight is .125. Using a opened up MMC the opening is square sided and has a lot of light around the sides of the front sight.

Deepening the slot in the trigger safety (TS):

When you pull the trigger you also pull the TS, this allows the notch in the TS to clear the frame at the rear of the trigger and the gun will fire. Since you have eliminated the take up the notch is no longer able to come forward enough the engage the fame, thus it must be made deeper.

If you have another Glock look at the way the TS works when the trigger is forward. See the lip of the TS that catches on the frame when you pull the side of the trigger? Since you've shortened the take up that notch must be deepened so it will once again catch on the frame.

As far as the trigger and the bar:

1. Dress the hole and polish the sides where the trigger moves on the trigger bar.
2. Polish the pin.
3. Install a metal baring in the trigger for the pin to ride on.
4. Move the location of the pin to provide more leverage to the trigger pull.

Added: After deepening the notch in the TS I took it out of the trigger heated the plastic spring and bent it out. This was done to insure the TS worked in it's new configuration. Take the TS out of the trigger the same way you got the trigger off the trigger bar.
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Last edited by Duck of Death; 06-09-2006 at 15:20..
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Old 06-10-2006, 07:29   #28
Hank Frank
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Location: St. Louis, Mo.
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I found a titanium striker in one of my parts bins, and installed it. It has a neat effect on the trigger pull. I have yet to try it at the range...probably today or tomorrow. As soon as I learn more and possibly see some pictures on reducing the mass of the original striker, I'll give it a try.

With regards to the sights, I'm just a few steps behind you. I have opened up the rear notch, and started using fiber in the front sight as stated before. I've gone as far as using a combat cut in the rear, which I like even though its .200 wide...for some reason I don't shoot that gun very well. I feel it's the aftermarket stainless barrel I'm using. I got to get someone locally to shoot the gun. Also, I like the ghost ring rear sights, but I can't shoot them too accurately past 10 yards.(Probably just me) On one of my carry guns, I've gone to a 1/2 ghost ring rear. It's fast and accurate.

I finally got the trigger safety figured out. I was reading too much into you instructions. I didn't notch the rear of the safety deep it can pop off the frame when pulling the trigger with a little excessive pressure. I will have to file a little more. My notch is about an 1/8inch long on the back side of the TS starting from the top.

Your item #4 regarding the trigger bar seems to be the "holly grail". I been going back and reading past threads, and this is a subject that is very well guarded. It's amazing the wealth of knowledge that is in the archives of "Glock Talk". I've been spending a lot of time reading these old threads.

I didn't know the pin holding the trigger safety is plastic, not metal like the other one. I'll just have to be more careful next time.

Have a good day....
A true competitor...will share his knowledge...with his competition...only then...will he learn...who is best _____ BURMA SHAVE

Last edited by Hank Frank; 06-10-2006 at 09:50..
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Old 03-30-2007, 12:56   #29
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Tagged for future reference - Duck of Death and his trigger mods.

Helpful Links:
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Last edited by BustedFlush; 08-07-2009 at 18:01..
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Old 08-09-2009, 16:29   #30
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Duck of Death can you post some pic , I'm going to try some of it .
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Old 10-17-2009, 18:10   #31
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Originally Posted by kevin mayfield View Post
Duck of Death can you post some pic , I'm going to try some of it .
+1 Id like to see those as well.
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Old 06-06-2010, 03:59   #32
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Old 07-23-2010, 06:12   #33
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Originally Posted by Bren View Post
But you are about to take a TDSA class where they will show you why that trigger is not as good for competition as your stock trigger and why trigger re-set is not the best way to shoot a Glock fast. At the end of the class, a bunch of fellow students with stock Glocks will shoot better than you and you'll be unhappy. If I were you, I'd put in a stock 5.5 lb. trigger group for the TDSA class. The good thing about learning to shoot the stock trigger that way is that your carry gun and match gun can be the same.
Bren, would you please elaborate on this?
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Old 04-05-2012, 01:47   #34
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:37   #35
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The really "trick" Glock trigger jobs move the location of the trigger pin (that goes into the trigger bar) in the trigger itself (among other mods). An expert on the Brian Enos forum posted the details a while back and I did it to my G35. I got the trigger as good as possible, but it still is a Glock trigger so it will never be good like a 1911 or other gun which has a sear and a trigger that can be tuned.

As for the striker spring: you can get a "Lightning Strike" reduced mass striker that greatly increases strike energy and that will let you cut the striker spring force down significantly (which does lighten trigger pull).

Last edited by Alizard; 04-08-2012 at 12:40..
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Old 04-09-2012, 18:02   #36
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Originally Posted by D. Manley View Post
Ralph Sotelo ( is pretty much a 1-man, web-based show. I would suggest contacting him through email rather than phone.

I can tell you that his kit performed precisely as advertised for me and for purely competition or fun use it's is NOT however, something you would want to have in a defense weapon.
he or at least that site went belly up
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Old 02-01-2013, 10:20   #37
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Bringing this back from the dead...

Duck of Death,

You've obviously spent a TON of time on your trigger work, but I didn't see any mention of the firing pin safety.

What are your thoughts on radiusing the FPS vs. leaving it in it's stock, angled form? Does it change the feel as well?

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Old 02-01-2013, 20:36   #38
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Previous posters got married, had children, and even became grand parents since this thread was started.

Most had a fruitful life, have retired, and some may have even died of old age.

So a big, and in some cases posthumous, thanks to all helpful posters!
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Old 02-02-2013, 06:20   #39
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Originally Posted by Hank Frank View Post
I'm trying to achieve approx. a 3 1/2 lb pull that is crisp, as close to a 1911 as possible. (The guns will be used for competition, and not carry)
It's not a 1911 or even remotely similar and if you are trying to use the trigger the same way you would a 1911 trigger, you need to get a 1911, because you don't know how to shoot a Glock.

I hate to give up on these guns and resort back to my 1911's and Sigs. However, after awhile beating your head against the wall, it begins to hurt.
That's my advice - you either need to learn something about Glocks or go back to 1911 an Sig.
If you are not an NRA member, you are not involved in gun rights, so sit down and shut the +%@# up.
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Old 02-02-2013, 10:59   #40
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I absolutely agree with this.
Its like driving a Miata, then complaining that the brakes or shifter do not feel the same as a Boxter. HELLO!

Originally Posted by Bren View Post
It's not a 1911 or even remotely similar and if you are trying to use the trigger the same way you would a 1911 trigger, you need to get a 1911, because you don't know how to shoot a Glock.

That's my advice - you either need to learn something about Glocks or go back to 1911 an Sig.

Last edited by cciman; 02-02-2013 at 19:37..
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:52   #41
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Does anyone have any pictures of where and how to reslot of the trigger safety?
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