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Old 01-20-2013, 06:17   #26
FullClip
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Thought that everybody knew that all electronic locks on gun safes have a secret Wi-Fi link that can be locked down at any time by "Executive Order" from The White House!!

Real bummer of a situation for sure. Hope you can get into it. I had problems with my S&G dial a few years ago. It was getting harder and harder to get it to open, so one time I got it open and called the lock smith to clean and fix it. He said it looked like I had spun the dial like on the movies a lot...and yes' I was guilty. The small teeth on the gears had jumped a little so the combo was a little off. If you have a dial type, treat them nice. Spinning the dial is kinda' like spinning the cylinder and slamming it shut on a revolver...loooks cool, but not good for the equipment.
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Old 01-20-2013, 06:53   #27
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That is not good. Sounds like something internally may need to get serviced. Call Browning first and see where they direct you. Most likely you will call a locksmith that can service S&G.
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Originally Posted by FullClip View Post
Real bummer of a situation for sure. Hope you can get into it. I had problems with my S&G dial a few years ago. It was getting harder and harder to get it to open, so one time I got it open and called the lock smith to clean and fix it. He said it looked like I had spun the dial like on the movies a lot...and yes' I was guilty. The small teeth on the gears had jumped a little so the combo was a little off. If you have a dial type, treat them nice. Spinning the dial is kinda' like spinning the cylinder and slamming it shut on a revolver...loooks cool, but not good for the equipment.
Good to know. I do that all the time on my S&G dial. Kinda hard not to when having to do the "4 spin" to clear.
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:28   #28
sourdough44
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That's why I went with a quality dial lock, it's not if but when.
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:35   #29
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OP: So wait. Your safe has a battery powered keypad, but no mechanical back-up?

Mine has the keypad, but I also have a physical key back-up that I keep hidden in a safe location (not in my house). I would never trust a battery powered anything.
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:25   #30
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Get a good S&G dial . Then you should be GTG. That is why I would never have a keypad lock on a safe. I watch people at my LGS looking at safes. They all tend to gravitate to the keypad versions. I figure it goes back to the fact that as a society we are lazy and want a "quick fix'" for everything. Or perhaps they are just too dumb to be able to figure out how to operate a dial.
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:09   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cali-Glock View Post
I passed up a great deal on a good safe a couple months ago... It had an S&G keypad lock... I am holding out for one with a S&G dial.
Find out how much it will cost to have a locksmith replace the electronic S&G with a manual S&G. Then you will be a better position to evaluate the next great deal.

Last edited by dling; 01-20-2013 at 09:09..
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Old 01-20-2013, 13:45   #32
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Old 01-20-2013, 14:08   #33
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I can't tell you how many times I get this call, it is a very common problem. First, go buy new batteries from a store that sells lots of batteries (best chance of getting batteries that are actually fresh). I'm serious, this is one of the most important parts, the new batteries must be as strong as possible. Second, turn the operational handle toward the direction that closes the safe and hold it there. Now, enter your combination while still holding the lever toward the closing position. As soon as the lock indicates that it has accepted the combo, turn the lever toward the open position.

If this works, lock the safe open and have a locksmith replace the lock ASAP. I am a believer in electronic locks, I have one on my personal safe. The S&G electronic locks are garbage, across the board, I have drilled more of them than anything else out there. My preferred lock is the AMSEC ESL-10XL, outside of that, the S&G mechanical locks are the standard of the industry.

If that trick does not work, try it again, but have a helper tap the safe near the lock with a mallet or dead blow hammer as you are entering the combo and trying to open the safe (use non-marring tools or cover the safe if you care about its finish). Should none of that work, you will need to call out your local locksmith, and the safe will most likely need to be drilled. The S&G electronic locks have sub-standard metals in key locations that allow bearing surfaces to elongate and prevent the bolt from retracting.

Best of luck.

Last edited by turbobrick; 01-20-2013 at 14:10..
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Old 01-20-2013, 14:10   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FullClip View Post
Thought that everybody knew that all electronic locks on gun safes have a secret Wi-Fi link that can be locked down at any time by "Executive Order" from The White House!!

Real bummer of a situation for sure. Hope you can get into it. I had problems with my S&G dial a few years ago. It was getting harder and harder to get it to open, so one time I got it open and called the lock smith to clean and fix it. He said it looked like I had spun the dial like on the movies a lot...and yes' I was guilty. The small teeth on the gears had jumped a little so the combo was a little off. If you have a dial type, treat them nice. Spinning the dial is kinda' like spinning the cylinder and slamming it shut on a revolver...loooks cool, but not good for the equipment.

I spin mine by rotating it with my fore finger and thumb. I start with it near the tip of my fore finger and slide the dial along the edge of my finger, the area between the fore finger and thumb, and finally along my thumb. 3 to 4 rotations like that spin it enough to reset the tumblers so that I can go through the normal unlocking procedure. I learned from my locksmith long before I got my safe to not forcefully spin it.

I also learned that if it got tough to try moving the numbers up or down by 1/2. If it got easier then have him come out and repair it before it got so bad I was locked out. I do not expect that I will need to call him because I do not abuse the dial.
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Old 01-20-2013, 14:43   #35
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OH NO!!! Mine is acting funny and I called them and had to leave a message. I get a soft click when you enter the code once in a while. Not the normal solid click that you get.

I believe the warranty was 5 years on the lock system? I bought mine this year.

Best of luck to you.
When the battery gets low you can get a soft click. Try spining the handle to the right and then to the left to make sure it is engaged tightly, because the sensor might be off a bit if you have something tight against the door.
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Old 01-20-2013, 15:05   #36
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Why I went tumbler dial.
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Old 01-20-2013, 15:23   #37
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Good thing you found out now rather than while your front door was getting kicked in.
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Old 01-20-2013, 15:45   #38
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That's exactly why my safe has a mechanical dial and handle - nothing electronic.
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Old 01-20-2013, 16:25   #39
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My grandfather use to say he liked the hand crank car starter better than these newfangled electric starters.

I have the electronic keypad and backup key -

If the electronic thing breaks I will buy another or get it fixed - not a big deal -

Must have been 4 years ago - I would leave my safe locked at night - I can open it in 3 seconds --

My house alarm went off at 3:00 AM - dogs started barking - I figured someone was breaking in - (ended up a false alarm)

I punch in the combo and F upped and hit one number wrong - then mess up again by starting to enter the correct combo without resetting for my mistake - BEEP BEEP BEEP = FAIL FAIL FAIL at 3:00 AM with your alarm honking and waiting for a gang of thugs to bust into your bedroom at any second.

From this day on I have always unlocked the safe that holds my 870 & home defense pistols before bed.

If the lock does fail just before bed I will go to my other safe - get the key - open the door and worry about it the next day.

Do you mechanical dial guys only have muzzle loaders and single action revolvers in your safe? :

Wouldn't want a "modern" semi auto like a 1911 - can't trust those - better stick with the reliable flint lock.
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Old 01-20-2013, 16:42   #40
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I read this thread earlier in the day, so when I was at my LGS this afternoon, I made it a point to investigate the safes. The store had about a dozen in stock. All were Browning. All had electronic keypads.

I bought mine about 15 years ago. It has an S&G tumbler lock. I don't think electronic keypads were very common back then. I don't remember having an option to buy an electronic lock. But today, at my LSG, I could not have purchased a safe with a mechanical lock, as so many in this thread have recommended.
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Old 01-20-2013, 18:55   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z71bill View Post
Do you mechanical dial guys only have muzzle loaders and single action revolvers in your safe? :

Wouldn't want a "modern" semi auto like a 1911 - can't trust those - better stick with the reliable flint lock.
Good response...except for the OP's post and the other Glocktalkers with similar problems who have posted before about electronic safe failure, and your problem you mentioned. I doubt it takes 15 seconds to open my safe and I never have to worry about an electronic failure - mechanial failure is very unlikely. Not to mention, the safe is for spare guns - I usually have half a dozen or more home defense guns that don't go in the safe.
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Old 01-20-2013, 19:27   #42
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Tell your wife you have to start over buying guns and a new safe since you can't get this one open.
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Old 01-20-2013, 19:40   #43
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Originally Posted by Z71bill View Post
My grandfather use to say he liked the hand crank car starter better than these newfangled electric starters.

Do you mechanical dial guys only have muzzle loaders and single action revolvers in your safe? :

Wouldn't want a "modern" semi auto like a 1911 - can't trust those - better stick with the reliable flint lock.
I don't think my life has ever depended on whether my car starter cranked or not.

My modern semi-auto still has no electronics on it.



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Old 01-20-2013, 19:49   #44
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I found my receipt this morning. Luckily it wasn't in the safe, and the date of purchase is November 2008. It still should be covered under warranty. Guess I'll find out tomorrow how well Browning will do with servicing their product.
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Old 01-20-2013, 19:52   #45
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Originally Posted by FAS1 View Post
I don't think my life has ever depended on whether my car starter cranked or not.
And I don't think my life has ever depended on whether my safe opened or not. Statistically speaking I'd bet there isn't much chance of either case coming true.
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Old 01-20-2013, 20:44   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z71bill View Post

Do you mechanical dial guys only have muzzle loaders and single action revolvers in your safe? :

Wouldn't want a "modern" semi auto like a 1911 - can't trust those - better stick with the reliable flint lock.
The safe is for the spare guns. The HD guns are where I can grab them right away.
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Old 01-20-2013, 20:52   #47
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Old 01-20-2013, 20:59   #48
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No one has mentioned hitting it with a crap ton of WD-40 yet?
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Old 01-20-2013, 21:10   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbobrick View Post
I can't tell you how many times I get this call, it is a very common problem. First, go buy new batteries from a store that sells lots of batteries (best chance of getting batteries that are actually fresh). I'm serious, this is one of the most important parts, the new batteries must be as strong as possible. Second, turn the operational handle toward the direction that closes the safe and hold it there. Now, enter your combination while still holding the lever toward the closing position. As soon as the lock indicates that it has accepted the combo, turn the lever toward the open position.

If this works, lock the safe open and have a locksmith replace the lock ASAP. I am a believer in electronic locks, I have one on my personal safe. The S&G electronic locks are garbage, across the board, I have drilled more of them than anything else out there. My preferred lock is the AMSEC ESL-10XL, outside of that, the S&G mechanical locks are the standard of the industry.

If that trick does not work, try it again, but have a helper tap the safe near the lock with a mallet or dead blow hammer as you are entering the combo and trying to open the safe (use non-marring tools or cover the safe if you care about its finish). Should none of that work, you will need to call out your local locksmith, and the safe will most likely need to be drilled. The S&G electronic locks have sub-standard metals in key locations that allow bearing surfaces to elongate and prevent the bolt from retracting.

Best of luck.
You're obviously in the lock/security industry. Are there any brands of safes you'd suggest or wouldn't touch with a 10 ft pole?
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Old 01-20-2013, 21:16   #50
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Good luck. As has been said. THe issue is normally with the owner not the lock.
I got keypad. Safe had S&G dial, IIRC $50 more got it swapped with keypad.
There are advantages to keypad. (and of course dis-advantages) One advantage is I can (coach) ANYONE how to open safe. (over phone) I can change combo in 10 minutes.
Now it sat in unheated shed after tornado tore off garage where it was/rained/wind on until I could dig it out.
New batteries and GTG. (so when it was in unheated shed I did NOT open it when below zero.)
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