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Old 05-07-2009, 00:41   #61
pkpss
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I have visited this forum maybe a year or so ago but this is my first post. Most stuff I knew from when I first shot (very good free training at the range I went to) but did not know about the lead part until reading this post. Thanks Tim! Great info.

Also thanks to the poster of the detail strip; was surprised that link is still active even after 3 years; anyways looks like someone posted it on youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FyLkOkNlsBE

That is one great video.

Last edited by pkpss; 05-07-2009 at 19:55..
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Old 05-10-2009, 06:01   #62
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Great stuff, thanks, i vote for sticky!
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:19   #63
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Good post... thanks
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Old 06-18-2009, 22:53   #64
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Yes indeed a lot of great info here - thank you and I hope this is still a living thread. I have a question to add.

As a former 1911 shooter I've known for a long time that dropping the slide on an empty chamber is not good!!! It has also been frowned upon by SIG users. Is this a general rule for all semi-autos including the Glock? I just bought my first Glock - a sweet G19! I refuse to drop the slide (on an empty chamber). What's the rule here?

Thanks all and happy and safe shooting!
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Old 06-20-2009, 11:54   #65
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Trigger guard ergonomics. (Particularly useful for large frame and sub-comp

Originally postid= 2119217 from year 2003.

While properly gripping my G29, the fingers of my strong hand could not properly fit into the finger grooves. The trigger guard made hard contact with the knuckle of my strong hand saluting finger. To some measure, the gun was recoiling off my knuckle.

The grip on the G29 (G20, G21, G30) is more than .5” greater circumference than it should and must be. The trigger guard design is larger and more intrusive than it needs to be as it approaches the grip area. The trigger finger angle is incorrect. An unnecessarily wide lower frame (just to the rear of the trigger) interferes with the trigger finger as well. (Sf models now address some of these faults.)

The trigger guard CAN be dealt with:

Grip the (unloaded) G29 as if to shoot, with trigger finger comfortably extended along the slide. Rotate the G29 to observe where the trigger guard and frontstrap finger grooves contact the bony areas of the middle finger. To prevent unintended damage, remove the slide assembly and apply masking tape over the areas of the trigger guard and gun that are not to be altered.

With sharp flat, round and half round files and 150 through 600 grit sandpapers wrapped around tools: Remove material only from the trigger guard location that interferes with your knuckle. Check regularly as material is removed from the trigger guard. Check at the middle finger knuckle and top finger groove of the frontstrap to obtain the fit desired.

I removed .10” vertically from the right rear low point of the trigger guard, while leaving the left rear trigger guard untouched.

The material is easily shaped. The reworked surface will be lighter in color than the original finish because some reinforcing fibers are microscopically exposed. One coat of black shoe polish permanantly re-dyes those fibers to a finish the same color value as the original. Takes an amateur proceeding carefully about an hour to do a quality job, using only the simplest hand tools. Looks good and well worth doing!

The grip circumference is effectively smaller for my hand because my fingers now grip fully into the frontstrap grooves. My middle and ring fingers now grip .10” higher on the grip, and that much closer to the barrel axis. My pinky finger grips the forward surface of the magazine floorplate. No magazine extensions are required or desired any more. The overall size of the gun is that much smaller to conceal.

Feels like a completely different pistol. I don't spend any more time searching for the correct or more comfortable grip.

Gripping higher, closer to the barrel axis, also causes different bullet weights//velocities to hit in a smaller target area, without any sight correction.

Places on the grip I have identified to alter which may aid persons with smaller hands are:
In whole or in part remove the textured plastic from the frontstrap and backstrap of the grip. Make sure not to remove more than the textured areas so that the magazine well is not punctured, or the frame not substantially weakened.
Remove some of the ambidextrous thumb rest on the trigger finger side.

More radical grip reduction/shaping is possible via the “Candle Method”; or removing the backstrap and filling with plastics such as Devcon Plastic Weld, or reinforced plastics used in boat building/repair.

Full size frame pistols can be "chopped" in grip length to accommodate compact model magazines.

Last edited by bdc; 06-23-2009 at 11:46..
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Old 07-08-2009, 22:30   #66
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Hi. I am new to this forum and also new with a Glock but not with guns. Could someone advise me what is the best position of the trigger (pulled after dryfire or not) so it doesn't wear out any part or spring if I was to store this. I am asking this cause I noticed the striker seem to be pre-tensioned after I rack the slide unless you dry fire it. Thanks

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Old 08-07-2009, 20:05   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maraf View Post
Hi. I am new to this forum and also new with a Glock but not with guns. Could someone advise me what is the best position of the trigger (pulled after dryfire or not) so it doesn't wear out any part or spring if I was to store this. I am asking this cause I noticed the striker seem to be pre-tensioned after I rack the slide unless you dry fire it. Thanks

Maraf
Maraf, it does not hurt your Glock, its parts or springs in any way to store it with the trigger forward.

With the trigger reset, the firing pin spring is only partially compressed. It is not fully compressed until you pull the trigger.

Having said that, for the sake of safety and knowing the condition of my Glocks, I dryfire unloaded Glocks before storing them.

There is usually a thread on that topic in General Glocking, as this comes up pretty often.

To learn more you might try a google search:

glock firing pin spring compressed

I think you'll find some interesting reading.

Welcome to Glock Talk!

BF

p.s. Sorry this went unanswered for a month. This used to be at the top of the General Glocking forum, but was moved in a redesign of the website.

It's usually best to ask the questions over in the General Glocking forum:

http://glocktalk.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=19
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Old 09-06-2009, 21:10   #68
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Over time, I have this amassed a collection of basic info that some new folks may find useful.
I don't know what's required in the way of mandated training in other states, but to get a CCW where I live(d), the requisite first step was to attend a State Police approved firearms course.
Well, I now realize how cursory that course really was. Basically, we discussed the "4 rules", we learned what the various parts are called and what thier functions are. We were strongly "encouraged" to join the NRA. We went fired 6 rounds from a .32 wheelie, and 5 from a .22 autoloader. That's it. Everyone passes. I think we've all met a few folks that this kind of "Guns 101" info could help.

Day One Stuff:
  • Get some quality training. You'll learn how to handle misfires, hangfires, squib loads etc.
  • Always observe good muzzle discipline, and know what's downrange.
  • Always observe good trigger discipline, no touchee 'til shootee.
  • Always use appropriate hearing & eye protection. A brimmed hat is good, too (Keeps hot casings from getting behind the glasses).
  • All guns that you have not personally just cleared and checked are loaded. Point in safe direction, remove the mag, rack to eject, inspect chamber and breech. If you leave and come back 2 seconds later; it's loaded.
  • Never use drugs or alcohol before or while handling weapons.
  • Never allow unsuitable persons, pets or kids access to your guns or ammo.
  • If you drop the gun, DO NOT attempt to catch it, let it go (bad catch can=ND if your finger gets inside trigger guard).
  • Do not allow yourself to become complacent as your skill set increases. The best shooters are never done learning.
  • Learn all about your guns, they may save your life one day. Know the mechanism inside and out. Perform your safety checks often.
  • Use only jacketed ammo in your Glock. Be very cautious of reloads.
  • Clean and maintain your weapon in accordance with manufacturer's instructions.
  • Shooting is big fun, but guns are NOT TOYS. No horseplay, ever.

Holsters & Clothes; I also have a "standard spiel" for guns w/o extrernal safeties:
  • Get a holster that COMPLETELY covers the entire trigger area. Kydex or leather is good for a positive lock w/o any straps.
  • Avoid holsters that have straps, thumbreaks or anything else that may get inside the trigger guard when reholstering. Even if the straps are too large to fit in the trigger guard, the strap might still push the trigger back as it "tries" to work into the guard. Early on I had one that did that, thankfully I had an epiphany before an ND.
  • I would STRONGLY advise against purse carry. First, kids love purses, and even if you don't have kids yourself, you surely have friends and/or family that do. Second, if someone grabs your purse, now they have a gun and you don't. Much better for you to hand over a few bucks and some makeup than a loaded weapon. I don't want my wife giving a gun to some creep in a parking lot, that's not good.
  • Also you need to be very aware of your clothing while CCW; does your clothing have any cords, zippers, buckles, straps etc that could potentially get into the trigger guard while holstering? Evaluate this while seated, and while getting into and out of your car (with an unloaded gun, of course).

Be Conscious of Lead; particularly when shooting indoors.
  • Always wash your hands, face and other exposed skin with COLD water immediately after shooting.
  • Do not smoke or eat while shooting. I cover any drinks I have with a bandana.
  • Do not touch your face, eyes or mouth with leaded-up hands.
  • Wash well before using the toilet.
  • Be aware that your range bag and accessories will likely become contaminated; keep your kids and pets away from these items.
  • Wash range clothes separately and often.
It is important to realize that lead is released into an indoor range environment as fired rounds hit the backstop and/or the target (depending on how robust the target itself is). FMJ rounds may reduce this effect somewhat, but look at the debris that collects at a solid backstop, lead everywhere. If you follow some simple routines, you can reduce your exposure, and therefore better manage the associated risk. Most everything in life involves a degree of risk; its all about understanding and managing those risks.

I've also included some other stuff as well...I don't expect everyone will agree on all counts, but I'm puttin' it out there anyway.

Grip Enhancements;
AGrip
PROs: Agrip is especially good for the cold and wet. Great in the heat, too. Won't scratch stuff up like skatebaord tape will. Adds only minimal thickness to the grip. Since it comes off when you want it to, it will not impact resale value.

CONs: Not permanent (although it holds up well). Kinda pricey. Applying it can be frustrating, particularly the first time you try. The other kids may make fun of your "fuzzy" gun; personally, I don't have a problem it.

Skateboard Tape
PROs: Cheap, cheap, cheap. Easy to apply. Works very well in most conditions. Found @ hardware stores. Easily modifiable by the user. Adds only minimal thickness to the grip. Since it comes off when you want it to, it will not impact resale value. I've never heard any negative comments about appearance.

CONs: It scratches the hell out of everything it contacts, keep it away from your favorite jacket's lining, folks. Not permanent, but easy to replace as needed (did I mention it's cheap?)

Inner Tube (a la Butch)
PROs: Cheap, cheap, cheap. Easy to apply. Works very well in most conditions. Found in any punk kid's bike tire (kidding...easy to find, bike shops throw this stuff away). Easily modifiable. Won't scratch anything up. Adds only minimal thickness to the grip. Since it comes off when you want it to, it will not impact resale value.

CONs: Not permanent, but it's easy to replace (did I mention it's cheap?). Some have reported that it smells funny (bad), although mine don't. I have heard some negative comments regarding cosmetics; I think it looks OK...so there.

Grip Stippling
PROs: Permanent, this is a good thing if you're SURE you like it. Will never slip or come loose. Works well in all conditions. Can be done for free if you're handy and have a soldering iron (practice first on something else!). Most folks seem to like the look of stippling, but I'm undecided. For me, it's a "case by case" thing...some look really good, others look really amatuerish. Adds nothing to the thickness of the grip.

CONs: Permanent, this is awful if you decide you don't like it. Most likely will negatively impact resale value. Many shooting sports sanctioning bodies do not allow this modification. Can be very pricey if done professionally. Can look pretty crappy if done poorly.

Rubber Grip Sleeve (a la Hogue Hand-all, Pachmayr, etc)
PROs: Easy to find. Easy to apply. Easy to remove if you don’t like it. Can add finger grooves to a pistol grip without them. Can enhance existing finger grooves. They work well in all conditions (I'm told). Since it comes off when you want it to, it will not impact resale value either way. I've never heard any negative comments regarding cosmetics.

CONs: Adds substantial width thickness to the grip, and I’ve never heard anybody pine for a wider pistol grip. Fairly pricey for a chunk ‘o’ rubber. Virtually unmodifiable by the user. DISCLAIMER: I have never liked these things, and have never used one for any length of time…I also don’t trust ‘em to stay put. Completely subjective opinion…take it for what it’s worth.

I have never used Duct/Electrical/Sports grip tapes. Try it if you like, and let us know how it worked out for you.

The Great Guiderod/Spring debate;
  • Your stock guiderod will NOT melt. It is used in the G18 (full auto), it is effectively cooled every time the slide cycles. If it will hold up to the G18, you're OK. Information to the contrary cannot be verified; it's always "I heard...", "I know a guy...", "My RO says...." Unless you're testing the very limits of performance or some similar torture testing, you'll be OK with stock.
  • Broken guiderods are almost invariably the result of improper installation (seating the assembly on the wrong lug on barrel). Yes, they are a mechanical component, and will therefore occasionally fail (the key word being "occasionally"), just keep a spare handy.
    The "lateral strength" or "flexing" of the guide rod is a non-issue. There is simply inadequate space available inside the slide to allow for the amount of lateral distortion required to cause structural failure. The guide rod is more than adequate for the intended task; it is a guide rod, that's all it does. In fact, the gun will continue to operate without any guiderod at all.
  • If you feel you must use a metal guide rod, save yourself some cash and go with stainless steel. As to tungsten and titanium rods, they cost a lot more, and add nothing (unless you sell them)...IMO they're a solution looking for a problem. SS is okay (and cheap) if you want to change out springs a lot for racing. And, yes, I have fired Glocks modified with these items, often.
  • I have often heard folks say that guiderod "X" reduces recoil; this is just plain wrong. The rod itself does NOTHING that will affect recoil. It is true that a heavier rod will (may) reduce muzzle flip, thereby allowing for quicker follow-ups. However, muzzle-flip is not "equivalent" to "recoil".
  • For standard loads the stock spring set-up is the best and most reliable choice, especially for CCW. Be careful with aftermarket springs (spring inner diameters are crucial). Keep it stock, friend.
  • Replacement recoil springs come in various strengths, and swapping them will have a direct influence on felt recoil. However, many knowledgeable GTers advise against this, as it may or may not also result in reduced reliability. If you feel you must change springs, go with a SS guide rod that has a removable retainer, this will allow you to change springs very quickly.
  • As I said, you must also be aware of aftermarket spring inner diameters, it is crucial that the spring movement is not impeded due to insufficient rod/spring clearance. FWIW, I have never heard a bad word about IMSI springs. For standard loads, the stock set-up is the best and most reliable choice, especially for CCW.

Is it safe to carry a chambered Glock?
The functional design of the Glock is extremely fool-resistant (I never use the term "fool-proof", because they keep coming up with better fools )
Seriously, the Glock is a very safe design; when your training is sufficient, there is no problem carrying with a round chambered.
  • Personally, if the gun is for home or personal protection, I can't imagine NOT having a round chambered.
  • A properly maintained and undamaged Glock simply will not fire unless the trigger is pulled.
  • Exercise and train your primary safety device (brain) to maintain unwavering muzzle control and keep your finger off the trigger until you want something downrange to "go away". But of course, you already know this.
  • You will, however need to learn that if you drop your Glock , it is critical that you LET IT GO! DO NOT make any attempt to catch the weapon, you may catch it "wrong" and cause an ND.

The Bullet Set-Back Issue
Here's what I do with my carry rounds.
  • Each time I unchamber a round from my carry gun, I mark the case with a black Sharpie. That round then gets put back to the bottom of the magazine. I repeat this until all the rounds have a black mark.
  • I'll go through this process twice, until each carry round has one, then two Sharpie marks. This tells me that each carry round has been chambered twice; at that point, I'll fire 'em off next time I'm at the range, and start the entire process over.
    I know I could probably get away with chambering carry rounds more than twice, but that's the way I've always done it (and it gives me the opportunity to "validate" my carry ammo fairly frequently).

Should I Leave the Copper "lube" on, or Remove it?
It's anti-sieze. Glock Inc. cannot control under what conditions the gun will be stored and for how long. They use the copper "lube" (copper/grease compound) simply to ensure that the slide mechanism is protected from harsh and/or extended storage conditions. It has nothing to do with "break-in", which is a myth. Alot of equipment designed for use in the arctic is similarly treated at the factory.

This "lube" may be removed whenever it suits you to do so. That being said, it is mostly grease, and will function adequately as a lubricant for a time.

To plug or not to plug, that is the question.
I consider the unweighted plugs to be primarilly a cosmetic item. Many folks don't like 'em because "if Gaston wanted that covered, HE would've done it." or some other silly reasoning. I have also heard some pretty outlandish "backpressure" and "flex" explanations to back up that position. It's BS. Undoubtably, some will say that it could/would impair your ability to remove a stuck magazine. I have both "plugged" and "unplugged" versions, and I've never had a problem with that. If you want a more "finished" look, go for it, it won't hurt a thing.

Now, the weighted plugs are another matter, they will affect the balance of the gun significantly. This is by definition a user preference issue, and only you can decide what's right for you.

Unintended Slide Release.
Just about any autoloader will do it if you SLAM the mag home hard enough, especially if the slide stop lever or mating surface is worn. It is also true that most designs are more prone to this when the muzzle is pointed skyward. Basically, if you apply enough force (in the "right" direction) to the gun to overcome the resistance in the slide stop mechanism, you will see this happen. The "sharper" the blow, the more likely it will happen, as well. I know of one fool that actually took a dremel to the contact surfaces in a misguided effort to decrease the inherent resistance between them in order to encourage the effect. Bad idea; too much fooling with the slide left him with a gun that slammed closed if you looked at it too hard.

At any rate; yes, it happens. No, it's not quite "normal". Though it may be kinda cool, don't count on it to happen because (as Mr. Murphy has taught us) it won't when you NEED it to. Train as though it can't happen, and just enjoy it as a bonus when it does, and keep that muzzle pointed downrange in case of a slamfire.

Have fun, be safe.

Tim
Sorry but Glock guide rods do melt and fall out as well, but the G19 kept shooting.

http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2...-torture-test/
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Old 11-04-2009, 19:57   #69
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Unable to find an answer on Basic Info threat. (I remember some time back there was a recall on the older Glock 21. Does anyone know of a recall on the older Glock 30 made in 1999?
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Old 11-23-2009, 00:58   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmah! View Post
Over time, I have this amassed a collection of basic info that some new folks may find useful.



The Great Guiderod/Spring debate;
  • Your stock guiderod will NOT melt. It is used in the G18 (full auto), it is effectively cooled every time the slide cycles. If it will hold up to the G18, you're OK. Information to the contrary cannot be verified; it's always "I heard...", "I know a guy...", "My RO says...." Unless you're testing the very limits of performance or some similar torture testing, you'll be OK with stock.
Have fun, be safe.

Tim

In the "Complete Glock Reference Guide" by PTOOMA they do a torture test on a G17 I think and they run 1000 rounds through it in like 17 minutes. Towards the end of the test the guide rod melted and the rod shot out of the hole 15 ft down range. That being said most people aren't going to fire that many rounds to heat up their barrels to melt the thing. Just backing up what you said.

Great info and thanks.
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Old 12-15-2009, 16:08   #71
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Thanks

1st post to GT. Just bought my 1st. Glock(G-27), can't wait for 1st. crack at the range(weather change). Have numerous guns, always been negative on Glocks because of (plastic). Feels great, bought it to replace my S@W model 36. It's still in perfect shape, just needed an excuse. I'm really looking forward to the durability, and weight. Hope this site continues to keep my interest!!!Merry Christmas too all, God be with our troops
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Old 03-14-2010, 15:32   #72
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An arguement can be made for "Israeli Carry"; empty-chamber. Especially for beginners at home. If your carrying, then you better be pretty confident of your skills drawing and chambering rounds under stress. You can rack the slide off your heel if your down and one-handed. (All this is theoretical. I don't get in that many gun fights.)

The point is with all guns and especially glocks, once that round is in the pipe, you damn well skippy keep your finger off the trigger and put it in a holster as above.

Read Plexico Burris story (G40 slipped down warm-up pants and he grabbed it.)
Also Pilot in Atlanta sent round through plane. See blutube search TSA. Holstering and re-holstering loaded weapons is a bad idea. )
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Old 10-25-2010, 07:18   #73
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awesome info here. Thanks for the read.
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Old 04-24-2011, 02:50   #74
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Just wanted to share:


Lead Awareness

The toxic effects of lead have been recognized throughout history. Lead poisoning has been identified in miners and metallurgists since early B. C. In the early 1900’s, doctors recognized that industrial hygiene was a way of identifying, controlling and evaluating the hazards of lead exposure.

Lead remains the number one environmental health hazard for children. More than 30 million American adults, who were exposed to lead as children, may be at risk. High blood lead levels usually result from inhaling or ingesting lead, as lead is not readily absorbed through skin.

Studies show individuals with elevated blood lead levels early in life have an increased rate of mortality as they age.

1. Cancer and cardiovascular disease.

2. Higher death rates.

These health problems are linked to blood lead levels at lower than those presently established by the Center for Disease Control (CDC):

1. Under Age 16 = 10 mcg/dL;

2. Pregnant or breast feeding women = 10 mcg/dL; and

3. All other persons = 25 mcg/dL.

Current blood lead levels are greater than those used during the study.

The following are the standards published by OSHA:

1. 50 mcg/dL = Medical Removal; and

2. 40 mcg/dL = Return to work.

Lead residue on the hands and face can be detrimental to those people who eat, drink or smoke before properly cleansing their skin. A person exposed to lead who returns home from work or the firing range, brings the lead contamination into his home. Lead sticks to hands, shoes, arms and apparel, exposing his family members to the contaminant. Presumably, because most firing ranges are contaminated with lead, the people who use the range are exposed to and may themselves become contaminated with lead.

According to the National Rifle Association (NRA) there are approximately 37,000,000 shooters in the United States. Many of these shooters reload their own bullets. Some shooters even cast lead.

The act of shooting a firearm results in “blowback”. When the bullet exits the barrel of the firearm, particles of lead and lubricant are vaporized and “blown back” onto the shooters’ hands and face. If the hands and face are not properly cleaned, the shooter may inhale or ingest these particles. When the particles are inhaled or ingested, the blood lead level increases.

Casting lead is just as dangerous, as shooting from a lead exposure viewpoint. Melting lead in order to cast bullets can create lead dust and fumes. Refrain from melting and casting lead in a home where children are present. When casting lead at home, make sure the area is well ventilated and follow proper cleaning procedures. If proper precautions are not taken when casting, lead residue falls to the floor and may be tracked throughout the house. Lead dust also settles on the body and clothes allowing other areas of the home to become contaminated.

Lead entering the body is stored in the blood, organs and bones. From there, it affects the nervous system, digestive system, reproductive system and kidneys. Lead build up is cumulative and stays in the body for years. The typical body only eliminate about one milligram of lead each day. If one’s exposure is more than one milligram through inhalation and ingestion, any amount greater than one milligram, will remain in the system. Therefore, if continued doses of lead are accumulated, the blood lead level increases.

There are several simple steps which may be taken to reduce the amount of lead absorbed by the body:

1. Always wash your hands, face and arms AFTER shooting and reloading, especially BEFORE eating, drinking or smoking.

2. Wash clothes separately.

3. Do not reload or cast bullets at home without proper precautions; and

4. Use separate shoes at the range

What can be done when it is discovered that you have an elevated blood lead level or lead poisoning? With an elevated blood lead level, it is important to remove yourself from further exposure to lead until your blood lead level returns to a normal rating. If excessive lead exposure occurs, as evidenced by an elevated blood lead level, it may take months or years to return to an acceptable level. If lead poisoning has occurred, chelation therapy, under the care of a doctor, is recommended to reduce the toxic level of lead in the body. Chelation therapy is costly and takes a long time.

Especially for children, diet is important, in helping prevent lead poisoning. “Proper nutrition and hygiene can help protect children from lead exposure. Diets high in calcium and iron act as lead blockers. Washing the hands and face of a child before meals can reduce risk.” 1

Many people are unaware of the serious effects lead has on children, pregnant or breast feeding women and the general population. Lead poisoning can occur from various sources such as lead in drinking water, lead based paint and industrial lead residues. Furthermore, experts are researching increased cases of lead poisoning found in individuals who are recreational and occupational shooters.

In order to prevent lead intoxication from occurring, you must first become aware of the problem and how to solve it. Literature about lead poisoning can be found on the Internet, at the library and is also provided by OSHA and your local health departments.

Spread the word about the harmful effects of lead, you may save a life!

1 LBW Kittle, Washington State Department of Health (Kid Source On LineÔ)

Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com
Great info
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Old 07-10-2011, 16:04   #75
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Thanks for all the great info. I just bought a Glock 17 today and I am hungry for info.
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Old 08-03-2011, 14:55   #76
bac1023
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Great info
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Old 03-09-2012, 20:31   #77
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Great thread here, especially for a newbie. I was head scratching recently over what to use on the grip (tape, rubber, etc.) and after reading this I guess nothing is without its drawbacks. Old "Smallhand" here is now at a loss.
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Old 06-22-2012, 21:55   #78
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The original post should be mandatory reading for all new Glock owners...

Well done!
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Old 12-20-2012, 18:57   #79
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Tagged for interest.
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Old 12-26-2012, 07:51   #80
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Timmah! here (original poster).

Wow, October '05. Posted on a lark, it sure is nice to see that folks still look at this after all these years. Warms a shooter's heart.

Be Safe.
Have Fun.
Shoot Straight.

Timmah!
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