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Old 10-04-2012, 17:53   #1
GunsNBibles
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Glock 27 failure to feed and one hang fire

First this is a slightly used 27 with the OD frame I bought on gunbroker last week. I took it out to the range for the first time today. I shot about 100 rounds through her and all was well, one magazine I fired went well, or so i thought, slide locked back, and I thought I was out but when I went to change the Mag I saw brass down the gun. I thought it was a jam and pulled he slide to extract. Instead she closed on me and I fired the round.

These are FMJ federals with the flat nose and I googled this and it seems some people are having this issue with the flat nose 40s?

The other problem with the dimpled primer may have been a bad primer, maybe the ammo's fault, but I find it curious that it was when I topped off the gun. I loaded 9, racked the slide extracted the mag, and loaded another round in the mag and slammed my mag home. I went to fire and CLICK. I racked the slide, round fell out, and I didn't touch it until I fired my mag and picked it up, primer had been hit. I probably should have waited to see if it was a hang fire, but I'm still new at this.

Any suggestions? Losing a little faith in glock since the G30 extraction problems and now this with a new to me 27.

Last edited by GunsNBibles; 10-05-2012 at 21:13..
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Old 10-04-2012, 18:31   #2
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Since it is a used gun I would check to see what it has for springs particularly the firing pin spring,trigger spring and RSA,actually I would just replace all with OEM and then go to the range.
I have not had feed problems with Federal 180 gr. FMJ in either Eagle or Champion through any of my 40"s even with it's flat blunt nose. SJ 40

Last edited by SJ 40; 10-04-2012 at 18:39.. Reason: spelling
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Old 10-04-2012, 19:37   #3
Buckshot Barry
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Here is my experience with the Gen 4, 08 marked, RSA in a 27

http://www.glocktalk.com/forums/show....php?t=1446146
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Old 10-04-2012, 19:54   #4
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You didn't have a hangfire (A PERCEPTIBLE DELAY IN THE IGNITION OF A CARTRIDGE AFTER THE PRIMER OR CASE RIM HAS BEEN STRUCK BY THE FIRING PIN. THIS DELAY MAY LAST SEVERAL SECONDS.) You may have had a misfire.
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Old 10-05-2012, 11:13   #5
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All .40 FMJ is flat nose.

First try different ammo, I've never had a problem with American Eagle or Speer Lawman in my G23 and G27. Next I would detail strip and clean the gun, particularly the firing pin channel, extractor, and cut-out in the slide for the extractor. If you still have problems, I'd replace the recoil spring assembly, firing pin spring, and trigger spring with new factory springs.

If the extractor is one of the new "MIM" extractors, there's a small chance it may be out-of-spec and that it's causing the problem. If everything above fails to solve the problem I'd try a replacement .40 LCI extractor.
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Last edited by voyager4520; 10-05-2012 at 11:16..
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Old 10-05-2012, 19:41   #6
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Slight update. I cleaned the gun and noticed a lot of oil in places that should not have oil in them. Namely the frame was slick. I follow the Hickok 45 rule and oil the barrel and rails, and just brush the rest dry and use a little alcohol. The recoil spring was very very slick too. This excessive oiling makes me think this guy may have oiled the striker channel and that may have been one of the reasons for malfunction. I contacted glock today by email as they were closed when I got home and tried calling. I assume they will honor the warranty even if I bought it second hand.

I will detail strip it as soon as I get my glock tool in the mail, will follow the Hickok video to walk me through it.

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Last edited by GunsNBibles; 10-05-2012 at 19:43..
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Old 10-05-2012, 21:20   #7
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I have had a few light strikes with the same ammo in my Gen 4 27
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Last edited by Glock Junkie; 10-05-2012 at 21:21..
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Old 10-06-2012, 06:15   #8
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Here's some more detail strip info I found useful, the video is by YouTube's humans4targets2:


Here's an easy way to disassemble and reassemble the firing pin assembly:
General Glocking

Correct slide stop spring position: http://glocktalk.com/forums/showpost...57&postcount=3

There isn't a very good video for removing the slide lock and slide lock spring. You can use the Glock tool(3/32 inch punch) to depress the spring while you remove the slide lock, but removing the spring ideally you need something thinner like a 1/16 inch punch or even thinner. To remove the slide lock you push the spring down closest to the slide lock, while holding the spring down you tilt the frame to the side and wiggle the slide lock around until it falls out. Then you put the thin punch under the slide lock spring from the rear of the frame, move the tip of the punch up to where the spring goes into the frame, and gently incrementally work the spring upward. Take note of which way the spring goes back in. When putting the slide lock back in, it should be positioned like this: http://oi55.tinypic.com/2zxw6s1.jpg

On the following page are some Glock Armorer's Manuals, just scroll down to the "G" section. I learned from the Update Manual and 2009 Manual. The 2009 Manual has a few pages missing, but that info can be found in the Update Manual as well.
http://stevespages.com/page7b.htm
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Old 10-06-2012, 13:48   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voyager4520 View Post
Here's some more detail strip info I found useful, the video is by YouTube's humans4targets2:

Glock Detail Strip And Reassembly (IN HD) - YouTube

Here's an easy way to disassemble and reassemble the firing pin assembly:
General Glocking

Correct slide stop spring position: http://glocktalk.com/forums/showpost...57&postcount=3

There isn't a very good video for removing the slide lock and slide lock spring. You can use the Glock tool(3/32 inch punch) to depress the spring while you remove the slide lock, but removing the spring ideally you need something thinner like a 1/16 inch punch or even thinner. To remove the slide lock you push the spring down closest to the slide lock, while holding the spring down you tilt the frame to the side and wiggle the slide lock around until it falls out. Then you put the thin punch under the slide lock spring from the rear of the frame, move the tip of the punch up to where the spring goes into the frame, and gently incrementally work the spring upward. Take note of which way the spring goes back in. When putting the slide lock back in, it should be positioned like this: http://oi55.tinypic.com/2zxw6s1.jpg

On the following page are some Glock Armorer's Manuals, just scroll down to the "G" section. I learned from the Update Manual and 2009 Manual. The 2009 Manual has a few pages missing, but that info can be found in the Update Manual as well.
http://stevespages.com/page7b.htm
Thanks.




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Old 10-06-2012, 15:49   #10
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Take hang fire out,,, and think about it.
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Old 10-06-2012, 16:11   #11
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I've experienced this sort of thing with every G27 I've tried (four or five and counting, including a Gen4). What I've found is that, for whatever reason, the G27 is highly sensitive to "limp wristing" and if you don't have a perfect grip on the pistol, the slide will not go fully into battery. Being slightly out of battery, the firing pin will move when the trigger is pulled and strike the primer but not hard enough to ignite it. Since I can't guarantee a perfect grip in a backup pistol, I don't carry a G27. In fact, I don't own one anymore. If you are using G23 or G22 magazines, the malfunction issues will be exacerbated, from what I've seen on the range. From what I've seen with dozens of examples of G27s being fired by other shooters, it seems to be one of the least reliable Glock models.
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Old 10-07-2012, 17:37   #12
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Ok, another update, I disassembled the slide and pulled some nice crud out. No brass but some lead residue. Ad lots of carbon. Shone a light down the striker channel and it is nice and clean, there were some slick areas, I think that as I suspected, this guy over oiled. I also noticed my mags are scratched, well the followers are both scratched pretty nasty. Still no word from glock, call them on Monday.


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Old 10-07-2012, 19:18   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GunsNBibles View Post
...Still no word from glock, call them on Monday.
Monday is Columbus Day. I think Glock celebrates all Nat'l holidays.
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Old 10-07-2012, 19:23   #14
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go shoot it again and report back....all glock is going to do is tell you to send it to them for inspection, they will test fire it and send it back....i seriously doubt there is a problem with the gun, clean it up and shoot it again, a couple houndred rounds or soo and get back to us...

also, what is the sn so we can determine how old it is
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Last edited by vmann; 10-07-2012 at 19:23..
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Old 10-07-2012, 19:32   #15
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As a note:

My G27 has fired every piece of trash shell I put in it, good ones too.

My revolver will not shoot Magtech ammo without 30% failures to fire. Deep dents in the primers. Repeated FP strikes will fire them eventually. Remington fired 100% in it, but the dent in the primer was very slight compared to the Magtech. Every other brand I've tried works 100%.
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Old 08-19-2013, 08:51   #16
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Firing pin spring which end on first

Firing pin Spring, does it make any difference which end goes on firing pin first or should the thick end sit next to spring cups Thanks
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:48   #17
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Are you calling the "thick" end the end that has the most coils?

If so, yes, the thick end goes on the "cup" end.
The end with the most coils (more tightly spaced coils) goes toward the cups.

Remember to put the small part of the cups inside the spring.

See http://www.glockmeister.com/FiringPinReplacement.asp for some pictures. Although this particular Web page does not discuss thick / end with most coils toward the cups, other sources of info do, such as http://www.rockyourglock.com/parts/FiringpinSprings.htm.
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:54   #18
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Yes thanks

Thanks, I understand now the end with most coils toward the spring cups thank you for the good info Tom
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:33   #19
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I have a gen4 g23 never had a issue with federal 180 or 160 grain ammo and never had a issuewith my glock no jams or ftf as suggested replace the springs remove the fireing pin and check for no oil and powder or full take down of the fram to people like to change springs for lighter trigger pull . If the gun was new then.you could blame.glock .the glock store sells a kit that has all factory springs part number gcprk01 49.99
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Old 08-19-2013, 12:09   #20
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General Glocking
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