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Old 10-02-2012, 23:49   #1
RM686
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sanding down safety on trigger

Have a new G19 4 gen. changed out trigger for G17 rounded version. Did polish, job 3.5 connector wolf, 6 lb trigger spring. Trigger pull is 4.25 lbs. I still hate the trigger. The safety lever in the trigger cuts into my finger and after 300 rounds this gun is not fun to shoot. Has anyone tried filing the safety on the trigger so when it is pressed it is flush with the trigger. I see Clockworks sells such a trigger with a wider safety and flush when engaged but for $150.00. All my 20 guns both revolvers and semi autos have smooth triggers. WTF was Glock thinking.
Any suggestions?
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Old 10-03-2012, 00:30   #2
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If you file it, the gun probably wont shoot. Since you will no longer be able to depress it.
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Old 10-03-2012, 00:37   #3
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If you file it, the gun probably wont shoot. Since you will no longer be able to depress it.
I would depress it and file off the part still sticking up above the rest of the troger.

Last edited by RM686; 10-03-2012 at 00:38..
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Old 10-03-2012, 00:42   #4
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I would depress it and file off the part still sticking up above the rest of the troger.
Gotcha. I wouldn't do it, but they are cheap to replace if it goes bad.
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Old 10-03-2012, 01:23   #5
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I do on the ones that offend.I usually start out at round 220 grit and finish off with 600 grit. Mind you I am just taking off the amount that doesn't lay flush with the main body of the trigger,in doing so I have never taken off any more that would prevent the safety from functioning in any way other than designed. SJ 40
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:16   #6
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What was Glock thinking? They thought "We just designed a super-safe pistol with an innovative trigger that could only hurt Cousin Arnold's girlie mans!"

I would NEVER dick with the trigger since its a safety also. For some reason millions of Glock owners aren't injured by their triggers, so maybe you just need a different pistol platform.
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:19   #7
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Do exactly as RM686 suggested, it is usually the second thing I do to my Glocks after installing TruGlo sights. I put the trigger in the fired position and then use a half round jewelers file to bring the tab flush with the rest of the trigger and then sand it and the ribs with 400 grit emery and then 600 grit. The sanding takes the sharp edges off but doesn't remove a noticeable amount of material. This is a huge improvement and will not affect the operation of the safety. (which in my mind is a joke to start with).
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:32   #8
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Do exactly as RM686 suggested, it is usually the second thing I do to my Glocks after installing TruGlo sights. I put the trigger in the fired position and then use a half round jewelers file to bring the tab flush with the rest of the trigger and then sand it and the ribs with 400 grit emery and then 600 grit. The sanding takes the sharp edges off but doesn't remove a noticeable amount of material. This is a huge improvement and will not affect the operation of the safety. (which in my mind is a joke to start with).
Great post, thanks.
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:42   #9
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Originally Posted by MNBud View Post
Do exactly as RM686 suggested, it is usually the second thing I do to my Glocks after installing TruGlo sights. I put the trigger in the fired position and then use a half round jewelers file to bring the tab flush with the rest of the trigger and then sand it and the ribs with 400 grit emery and then 600 grit. The sanding takes the sharp edges off but doesn't remove a noticeable amount of material. This is a huge improvement and will not affect the operation of the safety. (which in my mind is a joke to start with).
Only thing to add is that it is easier to start by scraping the trigger safety down with a small sharp knife with the blade at right angles to the surface. The design is indeed very poor ergonomics.

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Old 10-03-2012, 12:11   #10
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+1 for scraping.
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:37   #11
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I just use one of my wife's fine emory boards to remove the sharp edges and very slightly reshape the trigger safety. Takes about 15 seconds.
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Last edited by M 7; 10-03-2012 at 12:38..
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:43   #12
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I have soft hands, and this is not an issue for me. GEESH..................now I'm gonna think about it!......DOC
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Old 10-03-2012, 16:16   #13
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I have soft hands, and this is not an issue for me. GEESH..................now I'm gonna think about it!......DOC
Great fix posted by MNBud. It only becomes an issue after maybe 200 to 220 rounds of ammo fired. I have been shooting pistols and revolves for over 50 years usually about 300 or more rounds per range session. I have never had this problem before buying a Glock. Have no problem with accuracy either.When you look at something like Fulcrum triggers which solve this problem starting at $150.00 and do nothing more for this price, I think Glock could have come up with a better design.
If you go to the range and shoot 2 or 3 boxes of ammo then there is no problem.

Last edited by RM686; 10-03-2012 at 16:17..
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Old 10-03-2012, 16:23   #14
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I have never understood the Glock safety trigger concept. It is designed so that you can't pull the trigger unless you pull the trigger. Makes no sense to me.

OK, you can't pull just one side of the trigger, and this might save someone getting it caught in clothing or something. I wonder if it has ever done any good.

What is the thought process really?
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Old 10-03-2012, 16:52   #15
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MNBud YOUR THE MAN. JUST FOLLOWED YOUR INSTRUCTIONS AND MADE MYSELF A $150.00 TRIGGER.
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Old 10-03-2012, 16:53   #16
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I have never understood the Glock safety trigger concept. It is designed so that you can't pull the trigger unless you pull the trigger. Makes no sense to me.

OK, you can't pull just one side of the trigger, and this might save someone getting it caught in clothing or something. I wonder if it has ever done any good.

What is the thought process really?
Glock talks about having multiple safeties. But they aren't independent safeties; every one of them is released as the trigger is pulled.

So Glock added a 'master' safety to the trigger to prevent NDs.

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Old 10-03-2012, 16:57   #17
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So Glock added a 'master' safety to the trigger to prevent NDs.

Richard
Right. So you can't deactivate all the dependent safeties by pulling the trigger unless you pull the trigger.
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Old 10-03-2012, 17:20   #18
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MNBud and English, Wow. That was easy and it turned out exactly how I wanted it. What a treat.

Thanks.
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Old 10-03-2012, 17:21   #19
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Right. So you can't deactivate all the dependent safeties by pulling the trigger unless you pull the trigger.
look at the M&P pistols. You pull the bottom half of the trigger to fire? All these triggers were designed by lawyers.
Most discharges occur when holstering a fire arm with your finger in the trigger guard or by some how placing your finger on the trigger and pressing it.
There was a funny story a couple of months ago about a hunter who was shot by his dog. The guy had his rifle leaning against a tree and the dog knocked it over. The trigger got caught on a branch or twig and BOOM shot his master.
Wonder if a dog can shoot a Glock?
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Old 10-03-2012, 17:46   #20
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I do all of my triggers that way. Sometimes I replace the sport trigger with the smooth trigger but I have found if I sand down the ridges on the sport trigger I can get the trigger to where I like it. I also contour the trigger safety.

If you go to the 10:30 mark of this video you can see how I do mine.

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Old 10-03-2012, 17:54   #21
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how do you determine the exact position the trigger safety lever in the middle of the trigger has to have before starting to sand / cut it down?

how do you pin it in this defined position and then work on the safety lever in the middle of the trigger?
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Old 10-03-2012, 18:04   #22
dhgeyer
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look at the M&P pistols. You pull the bottom half of the trigger to fire?
I have an M&P, and it isn't the bottom half, it's more like the bottom 2/3 or 3/4, which makes even less sense than the Glock. At least with the Glock you have the fig leaf of logic that the trigger must be pulled in the middle. With the M&P you don't even have that. But, the M&P doesn't hurt your finger after a few hundred rounds.

Oh God, let's not start another M&P vs. Glock thread hijack.
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Old 10-03-2012, 18:06   #23
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I always smooth off the sharp mold parting line with some 1000-1500 grit emery paper. Sharp parting lines on both plastic or metal parts are kind of a pet peeve of mine.

Last edited by dkf; 10-03-2012 at 18:06..
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Old 10-04-2012, 02:12   #24
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I always smooth off the sharp mold parting line with some 1000-1500 grit emery paper. Sharp parting lines on both plastic or metal parts are kind of a pet peeve of mine.
This,..........
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Old 10-04-2012, 02:32   #25
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Originally Posted by dusty_dragon View Post
how do you determine the exact position the trigger safety lever in the middle of the trigger has to have before starting to sand / cut it down?

how do you pin it in this defined position and then work on the safety lever in the middle of the trigger?
I eye ball it,where the flat of the safety does not match the curve of the trigger. Sometimes it's not so much the shape of the safety as the parting line caused the mould that the safety came out of.
I have seen some that were barely noticeable to the eye to some that in my mind should have never been installed in the first place.
Some I have recently done and haven't stripped the lower.I have used a flat tooth pick behind the trigger safety while it is in place in the lower.
The one that was so poorly moulded I used a Exacto #. 11 blade to carve off the parting line before I shaped it with the sandpaper,it's not that difficult once you have done the first one,good luck. SJ 40
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