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Old 09-30-2012, 15:25   #1
matt_lowry123
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Ruger 1911 help

I'm not new to the 1911 platform, but I'm new to this problem. I took it out today to go shoot and when I got back home to clean it. I noticed that the left side of the frame rail is getting marred up. It looks like somebody did a 30 LPI on the side of the rail. It runs good and I haven't had a problem out of 500 rounds or so. You think I should call ruger? Anybody else have this kind of problem before?
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Old 09-30-2012, 16:51   #2
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do you have a picture? have you noticed any debris?
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Old 09-30-2012, 17:08   #3
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Need a pic please... debris or the most severe galling I've ever heard of ??
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Old 09-30-2012, 17:10   #4
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When I get back home I'll post a pic.
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Old 09-30-2012, 17:28   #5
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Sounds like galling, but if it as severe as what you describe I don't see how it couldn't be hindering proper function.

A pic is definitely needed!
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Old 09-30-2012, 18:05   #6
HAMMERHEAD
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New stainless firearms need a proper break in, grease the rails often. You can switch to oil later.
Stainless on stainless is galling waiting to happen.

Last edited by HAMMERHEAD; 09-30-2012 at 18:06..
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Old 09-30-2012, 18:18   #7
matt_lowry123
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Hang on and I'll send you a pic of the good side. I can't figure out this damn thing. I only have limited space to put the pics up.

Last edited by matt_lowry123; 09-30-2012 at 18:28..
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Old 09-30-2012, 18:24   #8
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This is the side that's tore up. I clean my guns after every range session. So if something got in there, it fell out before I got home to clean it.


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Last edited by matt_lowry123; 10-26-2012 at 18:36..
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Old 09-30-2012, 18:32   #9
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It keeps saying that I'm going over my limit on space. The other side is smooth. It looks like every other frame I have.
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Old 09-30-2012, 18:36   #10
matt_lowry123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HAMMERHEAD View Post
New stainless firearms need a proper break in, grease the rails often. You can switch to oil later.
Stainless on stainless is galling waiting to happen.
I guess I should have used some grease!!!


Edit!!

I just googled "galling on sr1911" and it seems like I'm not the only one with this problem. That's a pisser that it had to happen to me. Oh well, it's still fun to shoot!!!

Last edited by matt_lowry123; 09-30-2012 at 18:44.. Reason: Updated
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Old 10-01-2012, 03:55   #11
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The best thing you could do would be a Email to Ruger Customer Service. Send the pictures with the Email and see what they say. They will probably want the gun back to take care of the problem. They have a good turn around and it will be done right.
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:51   #12
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Every 1911 I own has patches on the rails where the frame and slide have worn the surface of the metal. I don't see how this design could possibly be built without sacrificial wear of the rails and slide to one another.

I look at it as the "final fitting" of the gun. So, from that perspective, there's nothing to worry about.

The SR1911 I have is certainly the tightest, inexpensive 1911 I own. I always thought that was a virtue in the 1911 world. It's probably one of the reasons why the SR1911 has developed a reputation for being particularly accurate for the 1911 type.

I really don't see anything here to be concerned about. Do, however, keep the rails well lubricated. I like Posness-Warren grease for the rails.
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Old 10-01-2012, 09:04   #13
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These pictures are why I want a SR1911 made in carbon steel.
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Old 10-01-2012, 09:39   #14
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OK so I'm no photojournalist..either.

I disassembled my two(2) SR1911 - one unfired and examined all rails. All I see are uniform, very faint tool marks on all rails.

As to galling as I recall was a very early issue in SS semi-auto pistols. The reason given was that the same exact SS could gall. The early fix was to use dissimilar SS and the problem was solved. Since that was many, many years ago would guess that new SS have developed and one non-galling SS is used.

I'd lube the rails and shoot it, if it worsens or just makes you mad send back to Ruger.

I'm not a SR1911 collector..the second one is for my son's Christmas present.

Best.
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Old 10-01-2012, 11:14   #15
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There is nothing wrong with that gun. Run the rails with a lube (very light grease) and quit sweating the small stuff. It's going to wear, especially if you don't lube it. That gun is seriously fine.
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Old 10-01-2012, 13:51   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmoryDoc View Post
There is nothing wrong with that gun. Run the rails with a lube (very light grease) and quit sweating the small stuff. It's going to wear, especially if you don't lube it. That gun is seriously fine.
what he said,,,,
i usually apply slide glide and a drop of gun butter on the rails,
works for me.
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Old 10-01-2012, 20:34   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unk View Post

As to galling as I recall was a very early issue in SS semi-auto pistols. The reason given was that the same exact SS could gall. The early fix was to use dissimilar SS and the problem was solved. Since that was many, many years ago would guess that new SS have developed and one non-galling SS is used.
THIS is correct.

Smith & Wesson found out the hard way in the 1980's with the advent of the second gen. 639's/659's that slides/frames of the identical SS material was an issue.
I still have a jar of Rigs STAINLESS +P Lube that was popular back then to avoid issues, before they figured it out.
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Old 10-22-2012, 18:56   #18
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I just bought a new Ruger SR1911. The rails look fine, and I have not shot it yet. I have already put Wilson's Ultima Lube grease to it...
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:05   #19
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Grease the slide and frame rails.Also put a thin layer of grease under the slide stop.The two rub spots I see look like the slide stop rubbing against high spots on the frame.
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:32   #20
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Whenever I buy a stainless 1911 I have gotten in the habit of polishing the frame rails with 1000g paper (wet).
I try to do the inside of the slide rails as well.
It really helps to make things slide better. You can tell the difference from normal to polished.
Then just a little bit of grease and it is good to go.
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Old 10-28-2012, 17:38   #21
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Old 10-28-2012, 20:10   #22
matt_lowry123
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Thanks for all the info everybody. I've probably put around 1000-1200 rounds through it now. It's been running fine and hasn't messed up once. I've let some new shooters shoot it the other day and it was throwing them for a loop. They were riding the side when they were trying to chamber a round. Most of the shooters at the range ask to shoot it, because they're hard to get I guess?

I might do the 1000g sand paper and smooth it out some. I just can't stand all the rough spots.
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Old 10-29-2012, 03:55   #23
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Quote:
Every 1911 I own has patches on the rails where the frame and slide have worn the surface of the metal. I don't see how this design could possibly be built without sacrificial wear of the rails and slide to one another.
That's not normal wear in the pictures. It's galling...and it's a problem.

Quote:
Grease the slide and frame rails.Also put a thin layer of grease under the slide stop.
Yes to the light grease on the rails. On the slidestop...If the recent clone makers and copy cats would adhere to original blueprint specs, and make the slidestops with a small fillet in the corner where the pin joins the arm to create a .003 inch gap between the arm and the frame, there wouldn't be any marring of the finish.

The same goes for the thumb safety, where the hammer and sear pins stand slightly proud of the frame to give the safety a raised surface to slide on without bearing on the frame.

But, I guess building pistols to print is asking too much these days...
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