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Old 02-20-2011, 13:39   #41
minkis18
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please elaborate on "improper cleaning". I assume you are talking about the usual fear everyone seems to have that an oiled striker WILL fail (even though mine was oiled and not cleaned for 1000+flawless rounds). I swear everyone here works for an oil company because you can never let someone bring up a "walmart oil" without mentioning that your personal lube is better.

I have a lot of different products that I use on my gun and my bike. For my bike, I use dry lubes to minimize mess transferred to other parts but for my guns, anything goes. I've used just breakfree, just remoil, S&W CLP, and even just Hoppe's without any lube applied. the results? my gun is clean and working. that's the goal and I think I've met my goal. Not sure your oil is good enough? does it get your gun clean? does it work? There you go.
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Old 02-20-2011, 15:46   #42
ennis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minkis18 View Post
please elaborate on "improper cleaning". I assume you are talking about the usual fear everyone seems to have that an oiled striker WILL fail (even though mine was oiled and not cleaned for 1000+flawless rounds). I swear everyone here works for an oil company because you can never let someone bring up a "walmart oil" without mentioning that your personal lube is better.

I have a lot of different products that I use on my gun and my bike. For my bike, I use dry lubes to minimize mess transferred to other parts but for my guns, anything goes. I've used just breakfree, just remoil, S&W CLP, and even just Hoppe's without any lube applied. the results? my gun is clean and working. that's the goal and I think I've met my goal. Not sure your oil is good enough? does it get your gun clean? does it work? There you go.
I thought that I could easily answer what improper cleaning would involve. It turned out to be harder than I thought. I can only think of mistakes that I have made and those that I have personally seen. Damaging the crown of a barrel by cleaning from the muzzle. Spraying some lube into the trigger assembly. Leaving the bore awash with oil and then firing the gun. Using strong solvent to clean a barrel and then leaving it in the barrel. Over using an abrasive product in the bore trying to clean or to improve accuracy with hard cast bullets(lapping compound). Long term storage of a gun coated with petroleum based gun oil. Polishing an antique brass Henry rifle to remove the patina. Probably others contributing to this thread can jump in with more examples.

The Torture test section of The Complete Glock Reference Manual shows a G23 submerged, for 15 minutes, in Mobil 1, 15-50 synthetic and then taken out and fired for 100 rounds. (They did run a single patch through the barrel to remove the excess oil). It functioned perfectly. (smoke and slippery grips not withstanding). So overlubing a Glock may not be the instant failure that some believe it to be. Not a recommended practice, but the gun did function, without gumming up, for the 100 rounds.
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Old 02-21-2011, 01:22   #43
fastbolt
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Improper cleaning methods?

How about not following the directions of the manufacturer in using any given product on a firearm? Misapplication of a product? Using an excessive amount? Using an insufficient amount? Not doing it often enough for conditions & needs? Using the wrong product for conditions and circumstances?

How about failing to consider any recommendations regarding maintenance, cleaning & lubrication by a specific firearm manufacturer? I've listened to an armorer instructor for one company describe thir products as "wet guns", while another stresses the importance of sufficient, but less, lubrication than the instructor from other manufacturer.

I've watched some folks laboriously "clean" weapons so they appeared clean, to them, but they didn't clean important parts. They were working for the "appearance effect" from their personal perspective (whatever that might be).

Some of them left excessive amounts of solvents, CLP's and lubricants on some surfaces which allowed migration of the liquids under the force of gravity to places where they shouldn't end up.

Other folks used an insufficient amount of the same products and mostly failed to clean the weapons, or worse yet, failed to properly lubricate them afterward.

I've witnessed many light-strikes in hammer-fired pistols (even though hammers usually have more mass and momentum going for them than in a striker-fired design) ... and when the guns were torn down it was revealed that critical parts no longer had the intended freedom of movement necessary for normal operation and function. The reason? This condition was typically caused by an obvious accumulation of congealed goo, which had become thickened and more viscous over time as the problem remained uncorrected.

When this sort of accumulation occurs in a firing pin spring of the design typically used in hammer-fired guns, "gunking up" the coils, the forward movement of the firing pin can be slowed and even stopped before the firing pin can properly hit the primer, resulting in either a light-strike or a no-strike condition. Not good.

Not a good thing to have occur in a striker-fired design, either, especially once the point is reached that either too much liquid is present (liquid being incompressible, remember), or, it gathers and sooner or later forms a sludge & goo and creates the same potential resistance to freedom of movement of the striker.

Some folks liked to use aerosol cleaning products (or an air compressor), but in a manner which seemed likely to help force liquids - and the fouling, debris and other contaminants carried by the liquids - into small places where it was unlikely, or at least difficult, for them to run back out.

Also, using some aerosol cleaning products in a manner which results in condensation forming on the outside of the metal parts might as easily allow for unseen condensation to form on the inside of the metal parts (I'm referring to metal slides & frames), lending itself to the potential adverse effects of moisture remaining on ferrous metals long enough for ill effect, as well as trapping unwanted contaminants.

I've seen hammers, sears and other metal parts inside frames bound up in accumulated sludge & goo, sometimes to the point that it was solidified, and the parts couldn't move as intended, either erratically or at all (at one point). I've seen it happen over the course of many years, or only a few years, and even as quickly as a couple of years. (Exposure to varying climate conditions and temperature can also have an influence, especially with weapons carried outside and being exposed to frequent temperature changes - think exposed carry methods.)

Not properly cleaning metal surfaces and then trapping moisture under a heavy oil can result in the formation of an oxidation cell (rust). Ever see an older blue steel or parkerized gun have rust form under a layer of someone's favorite oil?

Maintaining equipment properly for conditions and intended usage isn't a new concept.

Maintaining equipment that might save a life deserves some prudent consideration in the way of how it's done, I;'d think.

I've lost track of the number of folks who brought their issued or personally-owned handgun through a qual course or class, including non-LE who were attending some training, and experienced stoppages and operating failures caused by improper user/owner maintenance. I couldn't do anything about their disbelief, but usually pointed out that it was better for it have eventually occurred on the range instead of elsewhere. Then we'd discuss the importance of prudent maintenance.

It's never a problem ... until it is. Personally, I prefer to minimize potential risk when at all possible.

Some folks don't think they need to change their vehicle oil & filters as often as is recommended by manufacturers, check the air in their tires or perform other recommended maintenance, either.
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Last edited by fastbolt; 02-24-2011 at 21:54..
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Old 02-24-2011, 21:37   #44
mbjackson
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I usually clean and lube my AR with BreakFree CLP or FP10. I use the CLP/FP10 to clean my Glocks but wipe it off and apply a thin coat of RIG universal grease on the rails and slide where the original copper grease was.
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Old 02-25-2011, 09:26   #45
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Over the years I have found Weapon Shield CLP to work best for me. It is the only product I use on my guns for clean/lube/protection. Bill
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Old 01-12-2012, 13:22   #46
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Hey guys, before anybody jumps me for the zombie thread, I know it's old... I googled Cleaning a Glock with CLP, and this was first on the list. Anyway, for my background, I've owned, shot and cleaned Glocks since around 1997, so I'm not a Glock newb. I've just never used CLP until today. I've always cleaned with a solvent and a lube separately. I gotta say I was expecting something totally different than what came out of the can earlier. I was expecting something like a carb cleaner or something. What I got was a foaming oil. Anyway, I sprayed everything down with the foam, but then after it quickly turned to the oil, I suddenly felt I had done something wrong. I know (or at least have been told many times over the years) that you're not supposed to oil inside the striker channel. Well, obviously when you spray the slide down, oil, and apparently a good bit of it, gets inside the striker. I also sprayed the trigger assembly. I let the gun sit for a couple hours, and came back to start wiping it clean. Not real impressed with the amount of fouling that was removed. It seemed like it took forever to clean out the bore, and especiallly on the feed ramp. I have kept my feed ramp mirror polished for years, so it was easy to see the black didn't come off very easily. Anyway, I started to get paranoid about the striker oil, so I completely disassembled my slide and cleaned out the excess oil with several Q-tips. After getting the slide back together and wiped down of all the excess oil, I moved to the frame assembly. The whole process took a lot longer than my normal cleanings with solvent, and it has left my frame a slippery oily mess as the oil keeps dripping out of the trigger assembly and magazine release area. I'm not real sure I'm gonna keep using this stuff, so I'm asking you guys how you go about using it. I'm not afraid to admit maybe I didn't do it right. I hate to throw the can away, and I kinda like how I can clean the gun indoors without the smell of solvent giving everybody a headache, but I'm not liking how oily my gun felt after cleaning. I generally like to clean the bore, slide and frame with solvents, and then just adding a small amount of quality Mili-tec oil to the frame rails and trigger sear and contact points. This stuff just made me feel like I would have gotten the same result had I dunked my gun into a bucket of oil. So, did I do it wrong?
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Old 01-16-2012, 06:38   #47
Bill Lumberg
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Stick with products made for guns. CLP alone will do, but it's terribly inefficient for dry guns. A solvent cleaning followed by a few drops of oil is faster than lubing the whole gun and wiping all but 5 drops off.
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Old 01-18-2012, 22:13   #48
p5200
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I've used the Break Free CLP a lot and ran across this test and found it very interesting for rust prevention. [URL]http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html[/URL]
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Old 09-24-2012, 17:47   #49
tango44
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I been using CLP since 2001 on my G26 and after 8135 rounds not a single problem.
Sometimes I use Hoppes 9 for my bore but I hate the smell!
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Old 09-25-2012, 12:46   #50
tuica
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I could use it exclusively, but I do add Tetra Gun Grease on rails. Cheers.
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