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09-16-2012, 19:24
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#1
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Member
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 21
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Striker Safety Plug POLISHING
Hey guys....does anyone tried to polish or even file the Safety Striker Plug in order to get rid of the Gritty trigger feeling ?
As part of the Fulcrum Kit you get a more rounded plug but I think the OEM can be made that way...any thoughts ?
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09-16-2012, 21:04
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#2
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Member
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 21
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Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
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09-16-2012, 21:25
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 1,892
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I have both, I can't say that it makes much difference in a tactical or SD gun.
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09-17-2012, 05:36
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#4
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Member
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 21
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In a M&P it makes a difference...Im just curious if I can file an OEM and make it round
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09-17-2012, 06:05
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#5
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HOOYA DEEPSEA
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: SC
Posts: 4,661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emjei
In a M&P it makes a difference...Im just curious if I can file an OEM and make it round
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Please don't ruin it with a file. What you see was machined and re-chromed or coated with a nickel finish.
Chucking it up in a mandrel and turing it with emory cloth is going to cut through the finish also.
Many times parts are made from softer material and then coated with a harder outer coating to produce a cheaper longer lasting piece.
Just an opinion.
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"As an OK State Trooper once told me, "Why shouldn't a "good" citizen be allowed to carry a gun, all the "bad" guys already do.""
Certified Glock Armorer
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09-17-2012, 06:22
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#6
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Member
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 21
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Can you give more tips on how to do it ?
Last edited by emjei; 09-17-2012 at 06:25..
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09-17-2012, 10:32
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,078
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Sorry I don't have a link, but a very smart guy over at the M&P Boards used this method several years ago to solve the grit problem. I think it was mp9werks. I haven't been there in quite a while.
He took a small roll pin, removed the spring from the striker block and ground the pin to fit the hole in the striker block. He then chucked it up in his Dremel Tool and polished the block on low speed.
This solved the gritty trigger problem the M&Ps were having long before Apex came out with their products.
Dave
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11-28-2012, 09:19
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: annandale
Posts: 6
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I changed mine with a titanium plug and honestly I don't feel too much of a difference. you can check this video out to get an idea on how its done.
http://youtu.be/D-jQ0UOM7XQ (1of2)
(2of2)
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11-29-2012, 05:03
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#9
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Deus Vult!
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Penn's Woods
Posts: 10,768
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I've got both. All by itself a reshaped safety button head ain't going to make much of a difference. I don't like the one in the picture because in addition to reshaping the side profile, (Which gives the most improvement.) the head's flat profile has, also, been reduced in size - Which is not good.
Older Glock striker (FP) safeties are solid steel; newer, 'cost effective' ones are nickel plated. Unless you intend to have the modified part replated (Which CAN be done if you want to go to the trouble of finding a shop.) I'm going to suggest that you leave the newer nickel plated safety buttons alone.
Besides, the new longer steeper, 'sear kick-plate' angle on Glock's most recent trigger bars makes cleaning up and smoothing out a Glock trigger's, 'let-off' a lot tougher. I've got two older (low serial number) third generation G-21's that have genuinely nice reworked and polished, but entirely stock, triggers in them.
However, I can't get the, 'let-off' on my newer (higher serial number) third generation G-19, with the newest version trigger bar inside, to be anywhere near as smooth and light. On the plus side, though, the newer G-19's, 'Safe-Action' is much less likely to, 'stack' than any of the older trigger bars I've worked on.
Nowadays, if you want a better trigger on a Glock you've got to think Vanek! http://www.vanekcustom.com/3.html
__________________
'Wisdom To One Is Foolishness To Another; But, Alas, A Fool Knows Not The Difference; And, The Road To Hell? ...... It Remains Well Trod By Those Who Should Know Better.'
Last edited by Arc Angel; 11-29-2012 at 05:06..
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11-29-2012, 06:46
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#10
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Member
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 21
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I end up buying the one from ZEV..... Real difference ? Nahhh....
.25c with connector and spring set....yeahhhh
Gloh Gloh Glohhk..Feliz Navidad !!!!!
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12-01-2012, 19:16
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: texas
Posts: 301
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Polishing the entire outer surface of the plunger reduces grit. I don't reshape them, just break the sharp edge. Some of the gritty feel is the trigger bar sliding under it- but some of the grit is from the plunger moving in the slide. I polish the whole outer surface of the plunger, by chucking the plunger directly into a drill motor and spinning it against 400, 600, and 1000 grit paper. I also chuck the spring into the drill and polish the outer surface of the spring, as it moves in and out of a hole in the plunger, and if rough, can contribute grit. Then I polish the hole in the slide the plunger moves in, using sandpaper rolled up and chucked into the drill, then polish with a Q-tip with cotton wadding wound around it. This also works in the firing pin spring channel.
Yes to the M&P also! I did this to my M&P9C after looking at the prices of the Apex stuff, I just did the $.25 Glock trigger job to the M&P, and it smoothed it out a lot.
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12-08-2012, 11:57
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Northwest AZ
Posts: 2,066
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I mirrored the finish of mine with a dremel felt tip and some polisher's rouge. By itself, it doesn't do much to your trigger. Polishing all the parts, and leaving that out, however, will make a noticeable difference. It won't make your trigger pull lighter, just smoother.
__________________
I don't always rock out with my glock out, but when I do, it's all the way.
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