[PlayboyPenguin]

I am thinking of taking the leap and putting together a suppressed 9mm pistol...and, NO! It isn't for when the Zombies attack...at least not just for when the Zombies attack....okay, maybe it is for when the Zombies attack.

I am clueless at what I am looking at. I seem to find decent ones starting at about the $550 range and going up to about $900 for the nicer ones. I see some that have a noise reduction of around 25Db (the shorter ones) and up to about 30-38Db. I even see one that says it has a noise reduction of 125Db. Can there really be that big of a noticeable difference?

I know I have to pay the tax stamp and get a threaded barrel. Now I just need to decide what suppressor. Any help would be appreciated.

PS: I might be putting it on my SIG P250 or I might buy a gun specifically for it.

[D3S3RT_P3NGU1N]

Right at the top of the list would be the AAC Ti-Rant, Silencerco Osprey, Liberty Infinti and Liberty Mystic

Yes with 147gr subs and a top quality suppressor a reduction down to 125dB is achievable. Any of the ones I mentioned above would be capable of this.

One thing that I always tell guys looking to get started in suppressors is to remember that there is almost zero market out there for used suppressors, whatever you buy you're probably going to be stuck with it, so spend the $$$ to get a top tier product.

[WoodenPlank]

125DB noise reduction has to be a typo.

I'd suggest looking at a dedicated platform for the suppressor, especially one that's already been shown to work well suppressed. if you wanted a .45, the USP Tactical, Compact Tactical, HK45CT, or FNP 45 Tactical would be my suggestions, but the only 9mm I know of that's ready to go out of the box is the USP9SD.

[WoodenPlank]

Originally Posted by D3S3RT_P3NGU1N

Right at the top of the list would be the AAC Ti-Rant, Silencerco Osprey, Liberty Infinti and Liberty Mystic

Yes with 147gr subs and a top quality suppressor 125dB is achieveable. Any of the ones I mentioned above would be capable of this.

One thing that I always tell guys looking to get started in suppressors is to remember that there is almost zero market out there for used suppressors, whatever you buy you're probably going to be stuck with it, so spend the $$$ to get a top tier product.

125db sound level is achievable, but a 125db reduction isn't feasible. The OP said he saw one claiming a reduction. However, I suppose it's possible that they claimed reduction TO 125db...

[D3S3RT_P3NGU1N]

Originally Posted by WoodenPlank

125db sound level is achievable, but a 125db reduction isn't feasible. The OP said he saw one claiming a reduction. However, I suppose it's possible that they claimed reduction TO 125db...

Oh of course, a 125dB reduction is absolutely impossible, I just assumed it was a mistake and Playboy meant a reduction down to 125dB.

Edit: Hmm, after rereading the OP it does seem as though Playboy had the impression that a 125dB reduction was possible. I guess thats what I get for not reading a post properly lol. I've edited my post for clarity.

Another option I should also mention is getting a .45 suppressor and you can still use it for 9mm and .40

[Gdirty5]

Get either a Tirant 45 or osprey 45, you can buy different pistons for different threads/calibers and the sound deadening doest suffer that much. If you want a 9mm suppressor, my AAC Evo 9 works just fine, but since it's strictly 9mm it isn't as versatile as my Tirant or osprey

[barth]

I'm going to jump in here LOL!
Cause I'm interested but know nothing about it.

Was thinking a bout a Walther PPQ 9mm
with a Jarvis threaded barrel.

Questions are -
1) 1/2 28 or 1/2 32 on the threading?
2) What's the deal with wet and dry?

[chemcmndr]

Originally Posted by barth

I'm going to jump in here LOL!
Cause I'm interested but know nothing about it.

Was thinking a bout a Walther PPQ 9mm
with a Jarvis threaded barrel.

Questions are -
1) 1/2 28 or 1/2 32 on the threading?
2) What's the deal with wet and dry?

1. For 9mm, 1/2 x 28 is more commonly found on handguns, while I usually see 1/2 x 36 on things like 9mm AR's. I think I've only seen 1/2 x 32 on an H&K MP5. That in mind, I'd rather go with 1/2 x 28 as there are more threaded barrel manufacturers who offer that twist (i.e. more hosts you can use the suppressor on)

2. Shooting a suppressor wet means putting a small amount of cooling media (wire pulling gel, grease, or water) in the suppressor. It helps cool down the expanding gasses and gives you a few more dB of sound reduction. Youtube videos such as this can help:

Osprey 45 Suppressor on 1911-A1 - YouTube

Osprey 45 Suppressor on 1911-A1 - YouTube

I've shot a .22 dry vs. wet and to my ear, it goes from a pneumatic type "pfft" to almost a "click."

[Keyhole]

On #2, you can also run the suppressor wet, which means pouring a cap full of water or other medium into the can and shaking it around, to increase the noise reduction.

[chemcmndr]

To the OP: Desert Penguin is right, there is almost no resale value on used suppressors, so you would be wise to get what you want first, the whole "buy once, cry once philosophy."

When I was looking for a 9mm suppressor, I wanted one that I could use on my 9mm handguns, my 9mm AR, and my MP5's. So, I decided to go with the SWR Trident 9 that has multiple mounts for it. If I had known about it, I would have gone with a user serviceable can with removable mounts like the SWR Octane 9. A lot of people like the user serviceable cans so they can take them apart to clean the baffles on them.

If you're only wanting to buy one suppressor to put on different calibers, I would recommend a .45 suppressor that you can swap out pistons to use on a 9mm. Suppression won't be as great as a 9mm only can, but it will be quiet.

Fair warning: once you get bitten by the NFA bug, it's hard to quit. I've already got 1 suppressor, 4 SBR's, and I've got paperwork pending for another SBR and two more suppressors...

[ronin.45]

Absolutely go user serviceable! The models mentioned are excellent choices. 1/2x28 or one of the models with interchangeable mounts will give you the most options.

[FullClip]

I've got a YHM Maxim on my HK USP .45. Shooting it wet makes a big differance in the sound. When adding the weight of a suppressor to the end of a barrel on a pistol you'll need to also install a lighter recoil spring for reliable semi-auto function. The added mass to the barrel eats up some of the recoil energy that normally cycles the slide. On a fixed barrel such as a Ruger MK 1,2, or 2 no need to alter the recoil spring. On a Glock, or other striker frired pistol you'll also need to change out the spring on the striker to comepnsate for the loss of energy of the slide.
I've got a YHM Wraith on a HK USC and that baby is quiet even wehn shot dry. It works on the UPS also, but since it's not eccentric like the Maxim, it doesn't allow the use to sights.
Also be ready to wait a few months or longer for the BATF to return the stamp to the dealer. Have fun!

[Dexters]

Originally Posted by PlayboyPenguin

..okay, maybe it is for when the Zombies attack.

I'm going to start my build for Zs with a Ruger 10/22 Tatical FS. It is threaded.

Question about wet Vs dry - Is wet an option? Meaning can you run a Wet one dry without any adverse affect or must you 'wet' it?

[irishbum]

I have never had to change any springs for my Glock or my Sig, just took a break in period with about 150 rnds through the new threaded barrel. Have no idea why any springs would need to be changed and have never heard of this at all? My Glock and Sig have also been 100% after the barrel breakin, never an issue at all.

[Glockdude1]

http://www.silencertalk.com

[irishbum]

Originally Posted by Dexters

I'm going to start my build for Zs with a Ruger 10/22 Tatical FS. It is threaded.

Question about wet Vs dry - Is wet an option? Meaning can you run a Wet one dry without any adverse affect or must you 'wet' it?

Rimfire can wet won't make a difference, just shoot dry. Also if you are looking at a 10/22 check out the new break down 10/22. It would need to be threaded but a pretty cool rifle either way.

http://www.ruger.com/products/1022Ta.../features.html

[FullClip]

Originally Posted by irishbum

I have never had to change any springs for my Glock or my Sig, just took a break in period with about 150 rnds through the new threaded barrel. Have no idea why any springs would need to be changed and have never heard of this at all? My Glock and Sig have also been 100% after the barrel breakin, never an issue at all.

If you've got a Nielsen Device (recoil booster) built into your suppressor then you're good to go. Mine suppressors are just cans and to cycle my USP reliably with low power target loads or even standard factory hard-ball stuff, I had to install a lower rated recoil spring. I just got a threaded barrel for my Glock, and have a factory spring I can trim down, but am waiting on a new striker spring.
Just think of the extra weight, compounded by the mechancial leverage of the extra length of the suppressor hanging off the end of the barrel. When the slide heads back in recoil and has to lift the barrel up that added weight throws things out of balance and can lead to short cycling.
If I use the factory spring in my USP, it will normally eject the spent case, but will fail to pick up a new round out of the magazine.
No idea what a break-in period would do to help the cycling.

[irishbum]

Originally Posted by FullClip

If you've got a Nielsen Device (recoil booster) built into your suppressor then you're good to go. Mine suppressors are just cans and to cycle my USP reliably with low power target loads or even standard factory hard-ball stuff, I had to install a lower rated recoil spring. I just got a threaded barrel for my Glock, and have a factory spring I can trim down, but am waiting on a new striker spring.
Just think of the extra weight, compounded by the mechancial leverage of the extra length of the suppressor hanging off the end of the barrel. When the slide heads back in recoil and has to lift the barrel up that added weight throws things out of balance and can lead to short cycling.
If I use the factory spring in my USP, it will normally eject the spent case, but will fail to pick up a new round out of the magazine.
No idea what a break-in period would do to help the cycling.

OOH I see then , sorry I have a Trident 9 and it has the Nielson device. Everything I read before buying said barrel needs break in period. Really my Sig was shooting reliably almost straight off, my Glock 19 and Storm Lake barrel took about 150 rounds and then would cycled perfectly after that.

Also thank you for taking the time to explain, I learned something new today.

[Billy2112]

http://nfatalk.org/forum/
http://www.libertycans.net/Suppressors

Welcome to the addiction!