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Old 01-04-2011, 21:11   #41
M1A Shooter
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ive painted my bolt gun and shotgun but its always been flat od green.

my ar will be painted as soon as i can find some decent netting. i like the net pattern.
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Old 01-04-2011, 21:56   #42
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Guess I have another reason for why I never use CLP.
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Old 01-05-2011, 02:10   #43
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I have seen brake cleaner recommended for removal (spray on metal, spray on rag for polymer). I can't comment on this method, as I said before I have no experience with this.
Brake cleaner worked too well... I used it to clean my milsurp M44 Mosin Nagant as I heard break cleaner worked well on Cosmoline.

I hung up my rifle, shot it with brake cleaner... saw a lot of brown coming off... and thought, man, that's a lot of cosmoline... then I realized it was the lacquer coming off the wood stock!

The rifle was clean though, not a trace of Cosmoline to be found anywhere in the metal afterwards... but I did have to refinish the wooden stock, which is fine. I got to fine sand it and raise some cartouches and re-stain the wood a nice medium red Cherry and Walnut which actually came out a nice rich Teak for some reason. It sure looked better than before with the stock Russian wooden finish.
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Old 01-05-2011, 06:18   #44
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I painted a rifle once with krylon and will never do it again.. The first time any cleaning products, including CLP touched it the paint turned into a sticky stinky mess.. It was LAME>.
Brownells Clear matte epoxy Acra coat over Krylon= no problem with cleaners or clp for me.
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Old 01-05-2011, 07:33   #45
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Guess I have another reason for why I never use CLP.
what do you use that doesnt affect the krylon?
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Old 01-05-2011, 07:35   #46
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My guess would be Slip2000.
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Old 01-05-2011, 09:33   #47
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what do you use that doesnt affect the krylon?
I come from the school of "clean every few thousand rounds" rather than the school of "complete dis-assembly and clean after every time at the range". I am more prone to wipe down the BCG and bore-snake the barrel a couple times than anything more. As you can imagine the paint is far from being in danger from my cleaning approach.

Nevermore is correct, I prefer Slip or MPro7 for cleaning my rifles.
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Old 01-05-2011, 19:45   #48
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ahh, ok. i am pretty much the same. just curious if you were using militech or something now. i do use clp but my rifle doesnt need to be dripping wet to run.
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Old 01-05-2011, 20:00   #49
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Very nice thread! I've used Norrells moly resin. Nothing fancy though, just black...okay, Evil Black

On the Norrells, it's a bit more involved since I heated the parts before applying it, and then baked it on for an hour after application.
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Old 01-06-2011, 15:34   #50
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I come from the school of "clean every few thousand rounds" rather than the school of "complete dis-assembly and clean after every time at the range". I am more prone to wipe down the BCG and bore-snake the barrel a couple times than anything more. As you can imagine the paint is far from being in danger from my cleaning approach.

Nevermore is correct, I prefer Slip or MPro7 for cleaning my rifles.
I agree for chrome lined AR's but for more accurate AR setups and accurate bolt action rifles, I clean every 1-200 rnds or whenever accuracy falls off..

Thanks for the tip on Epoxy clear coat in the above posts..
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Old 01-09-2011, 07:42   #51
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Black Rifle Forum

I realize this is not an AR, but this thread got me thinking about painting my coyote rifle. I taped the action, trigger guard and trigger, scope ends, and the grip inserts on the rifle, and I covered the muzzle with a piece of tape. I painted one coat of black krylon, let it dry, used my home made stencils (strips of masking tape cut into blades of grass in a sense), painted two coats of white paint, and then removed the stencils. Maybe not my best work but I am happy with it. As someone else pointed out, its made to be functional, not a safe queen.
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Old 01-09-2011, 09:52   #52
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Black Rifle Forum

I realize this is not an AR, but this thread got me thinking about painting my coyote rifle. I taped the action, trigger guard and trigger, scope ends, and the grip inserts on the rifle, and I covered the muzzle with a piece of tape. I painted one coat of black krylon, let it dry, used my home made stencils (strips of masking tape cut into blades of grass in a sense), painted two coats of white paint, and then removed the stencils. Maybe not my best work but I am happy with it. As someone else pointed out, its made to be functional, not a safe queen.
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Old 01-09-2011, 20:58   #53
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Here's my newest .204 Ruger AR I built.

Black Rifle Forum
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Old 01-09-2011, 21:26   #54
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Here's my newest .204 Ruger AR I built.

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Looks good, how did you paint it?

Still waiting for some decent painting weather here, have the Krylon and cardboard sitting in the garage, waiting. Figure I'll put another coat on my bumper while I'm at it, it's pretty scratched up.
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Old 01-09-2011, 21:33   #55
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I put a rope through the rear sling mount, hung it from a tree and started painting. I did the tan base first, then olive drab, and then added some dark brown. I used Krylon, and just started spraying spots, and streaks on the gun.
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Old 01-09-2011, 21:54   #56
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Black Rifle Forum





I recognize the Sonoran desert. You here in Tucson by any chance?
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Old 01-09-2011, 22:03   #57
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Let's see if I did this right. Here's a couple pictures of a Savage 110 I painted in a desert digital camo motif. If the pics don't show up, give me a min. I did a write-up of the process on another forum, so if anyone is interested...just let me know and I will add it here too. If anyone wants to make those photos appear bigger, feel free...I just am not familiar w/ the URL way of adding photos.
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Old 01-09-2011, 22:04   #58
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I recognize the Sonoran desert. You here in Tucson by any chance?
The saguaro cacti gave it away, didn't they?

The photos were actually taken near the town of Carefree.
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Old 01-09-2011, 22:05   #59
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so if anyone is interested...just let me know and I will add it here too.
That's the purpose of the thread Bud! Please enlighten us on what did/didn't work for you.
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Old 01-09-2011, 22:21   #60
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You asked for it...here ya go:

I decided to give my Savage 110 30.06 a desert colored digital camo transformation. I did a lot of research and watched some youtube clips...printed out some digital camo stencils and went to town. I went ahead and painted the scope too (cheap Simmons scope that came with the rifle). Also included a pic of the gun with my Nikon Monarch 3-9x40 w/ Talley Lightweight rings.

The pictures make it look a lot lighter than it actually is. The lightest color (looks white in pics) is actually desert sand. Then the next darker is a tan color, then the darkest is a dark brown. All are ultra-flat camouflage paints...and then I gave it a couple coats of flat clear to protect it.

I used Aervo Military Digital Pattern Camo Paint in Desert Sand as the base color. Zynolyte also makes a Camo Paint, which is what I used for the other two colors. The light brown is Zynolyte Sand and the darker color is Zynolyte Earth Brown. I clear coated everything with Valspar Clear Flat enamel. You definitely want to use a flat paint, which are hard to find in different colors (from a rattle can) unless you get the "camo" paint. I actually paid way too much for the Aervo because I couldn't find a flat rattle can desert sand color anywhere around here...so I had to order it...shipping and all came to around $16 for one can! I had a vision in mind and I was willing to pay that to do it right.

First, of course, you completely disassemble the gun...applying tape everywhere you don't want painted. Cotton balls work well stuffed into both ends of the barrel and the inside of the stock.

The way I did the stencils: I found some free stencils online (I can PM you the website) and printed them out. Then I covered a sheet of wax paper with blue painters tape, overlapping each strip by 1/16 inch. Then you secure your stencil to the painters tape and cut through everything with a box cutter/exact-o knife. Then peel off the wax paper and you have an adhesive stencil to lay on the gun. These are the male stencils. You paint the gun the lightest color first, then lay on a layer of your adhesive male stencil, then spray the next color, lay on another layer of stencils, then spray the last color (darkest color). After that, you carefully peel off all the layers and then you can go back and use the female stencils (which were made when you pulled the male stencils off of the wax paper) to add to any areas that you want (this is what gives it a true digital camo look). Of course you have to be really careful to cover the rest of the gun with plastic or paper during this process so you don't have any problems with over-spray.

One of the toughest parts was visualizing what you wanted the final product to look like because you have to work backwards with the paint colors. The lightest color goes on first, then the next darker, then the darkest. The reason I say it's backwards is because you cover up wherever you want that particular color to stay with the male stencil, then spray over top of it as opposed to using a female stencil to spray the color you want in the area you want. Make sense?

You wouldn't believe it, but removing the painters tape from the wax paper was the most time consuming and tedious part of the job. Separating the two layers without ripping the little "arms" of the painters tape that you created when you cut out the stencil is actually quite difficult. Also, cutting out the stencils is pretty tedious and your fingers will hurt for a week. Your vision will also suffer from staring at digital camo for 3 days straight.

But, other than the onset of arthritis and going blind...no negative side effects and you come out with a really cool looking custom paint job that you have the satisfaction of knowing you did yourself.

I hope all of that made sense, but if not...feel free to ask more questions and I'd be glad to help you out.

All in all, I had over 20+ hours in the paint job. I sold the rifle a few months back for $300 and I've regretted it ever since!
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