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Old 07-02-2009, 12:15   #551
BigKid
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Thanks Blinky.

Few small questions, why do a lot of trainers prefer a 6' leash instead of a 4' or 10' even?

Also, my pup has a minor case of constipation. The first few times he tries to go in the morning, its a struggle. Whats a good treatment for that? Its not really serious enough to go to the vet I think. He is still going, just seems to be more of a struggle then it should be.

Oh, and I signed him up for puppy obedience class at PetCo. I thought it would be good for his socialization. Yay/Nay? I dont start him until I am ready to start him. I can get my refund at any point before I start him in the class. Its 4 nights a week for 6 consecutive weeks. I can come to as many or as few as I want. Each session is 45 minutes and the lady really seems to know her stuff (course compared to me, a lot of people seem like experts). She has a lot of GSD experience (use to breed and train Shutzhund in Germany. Moved to the states about 10 years ago and has focused on training as she is in "semi-retirement").
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Old 07-02-2009, 14:54   #552
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Thanks Blinky.

Few small questions, why do a lot of trainers prefer a 6' leash instead of a 4' or 10' even?
Well, the object is to have the dog walking next to you or slightly behind you while there is no tension on the leash.

With a four foot leash, you run out of room too fast and the dog doesn't have as much leeway to walk with you. With the 10 foot, it becomes harder to be able to give fast and accurate corrections. 6 foot leashes do offer the best of both worlds. The dog has some space, but you're not dealing with so much leash that you can't correct if necessary.

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Also, my pup has a minor case of constipation. The first few times he tries to go in the morning, its a struggle. Whats a good treatment for that? Its not really serious enough to go to the vet I think. He is still going, just seems to be more of a struggle then it should be.
Well, you could try a trick like mixing a little bit of canned pumpkin (not pie filling) into the food or moistening it with some milk. Those are both natural laxatives. He's drinking water with no problems right?

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Oh, and I signed him up for puppy obedience class at PetCo. I thought it would be good for his socialization. Yay/Nay? I dont start him until I am ready to start him. I can get my refund at any point before I start him in the class. Its 4 nights a week for 6 consecutive weeks. I can come to as many or as few as I want. Each session is 45 minutes and the lady really seems to know her stuff (course compared to me, a lot of people seem like experts). She has a lot of GSD experience (use to breed and train Shutzhund in Germany. Moved to the states about 10 years ago and has focused on training as she is in "semi-retirement").
I say go for it. But I always give people a warning when they are doing group training like that because I've seen a lot of in store trainers that have made me cringe. Given the fact that they are training for a corporation most of their methods very generic and very hands off. I've talked to a few that have called training collars "inhumane". Also, be very mindful of the use of treats. I see a lot of trainers use treats WAAAAY too much and it becomes a too big of a crutch.

Since you said she has a background in Schutzhund, then I wouldn't be too worried about her though. Schutzhund trainers don't mess around.
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Old 07-02-2009, 15:03   #553
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Well, the object is to have the dog walking next to you or slightly behind you while there is no tension on the leash.

With a four foot leash, you run out of room too fast and the dog doesn't have as much leeway to walk with you. With the 10 foot, it becomes harder to be able to give fast and accurate corrections. 6 foot leashes do offer the best of both worlds. The dog has some space, but you're not dealing with so much leash that you can't correct if necessary.
Makes sense.


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Well, you could try a trick like mixing a little bit of canned pumpkin (not pie filling) into the food or moistening it with some milk. Those are both natural laxatives. He's drinking water with no problems right?
yeah, i've cut him back though like we talked about. But the constipation started before i cut him back. He still loves his water though. Drinks it like there is no tomorrow. Could this be a sign of something a little more serious? Somethign dehydrating him?

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I say go for it. But I always give people a warning when they are doing group training like that because I've seen a lot of in store trainers that have made me cringe. Given the fact that they are training for a corporation most of their methods very generic and very hands off. I've talked to a few that have called training collars "inhumane". Also, be very mindful of the use of treats. I see a lot of trainers use treats WAAAAY too much and it becomes a too big of a crutch.

Since you said she has a background in Schutzhund, then I wouldn't be too worried about her though. Schutzhund trainers don't mess around.
She has already endorsed the use of training collars and she has said a couple of things that made me wonder if you and her were cut from the same mold. I'll let you know how it goes. I think we will start next tuesday time permitting.
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Old 07-02-2009, 16:44   #554
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yeah, i've cut him back though like we talked about. But the constipation started before i cut him back. He still loves his water though. Drinks it like there is no tomorrow. Could this be a sign of something a little more serious? Somethign dehydrating him?
Well, it's probably not a dehydration issue if you noticed it before. I would give your vet a call just to be on the safe side. If they think there could be an issue, they may want to get an x-ray to make sure that everything is OK in the digestive tract.


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She has already endorsed the use of training collars and she has said a couple of things that made me wonder if you and her were cut from the same mold. I'll let you know how it goes. I think we will start next tuesday time permitting.
Awesome! This is why I like Petco and not PetsMart. You'll NEVER hear that come from a PetsMart "trainer".

I think this will be a very positive experience for both of you! I'm looking forward to hearing how it goes.
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Old 07-06-2009, 12:48   #555
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Hey Blinky,

I wanted to give some updates on prior questions. The housestraining is finally making sense to him. He isn't 100% but I can tell he is trying. He isn't just squatting wherever he is. He tells me he needs to go now, so thats definitely a bonus. Thanks for your help.

Saturday (4th of July) I had him with me at a friends house for celebrations. He handled fireworks like they weren't even there. He got a little uneasy about the very first set of "poppers" that went off but after that he didn't pay them any mind. Once I saw he was really ok around them I used the opportunity to work sit/stay and down/stay with him. He was reluctant at first because of all the people around but he was doing really well towards the end of the evening. People were really impressed with how calm and collected he was during the whole evening. My friends dogs were going crazy, scared out of their minds, and a little terrier that came to the party had to be sedated because he was panicking. But my pup was solid as a rock. I was proud. If I can train him to retreive birds I may have a new hunting partner.

His walks are not going so hot. He gets so distracted that I am spending a lot of time saying "No" and correcting him. Any advice? He wants to greet everyone that comes within 50 feet, he wants to sniff every flower, lick every spot on the ground, drink from every puddle of water. So I am constantly having to tug on the leash and say "no". But the buckle collar just moves him, it doesn't really get him to pay attention to me.

I start puppy obedience tomorrow evening, I'll keep you posted.

Thanks for all your help Blinky.
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Old 07-06-2009, 16:02   #556
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Why are you taking him for the walk? If it is exercise for you then keep the leash shorter so he has less time to find the smells. If the exercise is for him, then also give him a chance to categorize the smells in the area.

My Missy gets better with each walk as she learns what the smells are for an area. If there are some new scents she wants to check them out. If nothing has really changed she gets a quick sniff going by and keeps right on walking. If there is a rabbit in the area she will smell it and look directly where it is hiding. I will many times already see the rabbit so I just hold on tight in case it goes running away BEFORE I can tell her to leave it. Most times when I say LEAVE IT, she will ignore it while giving me an Awe Come ON!! You are no fun look.

It all takes time and consistent commands, but it will get better. Age wise your puppy is about kindergarten age, he will be easily distracted by all the smells, sights and sounds as he learns his area.
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Old 07-06-2009, 17:09   #557
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Hey Blinky,

I wanted to give some updates on prior questions. The housestraining is finally making sense to him. He isn't 100% but I can tell he is trying. He isn't just squatting wherever he is. He tells me he needs to go now, so thats definitely a bonus. Thanks for your help.
Good deal. All it takes you you being calm and consistent and he'll do anything you need!

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Saturday (4th of July) I had him with me at a friends house for celebrations. He handled fireworks like they weren't even there. He got a little uneasy about the very first set of "poppers" that went off but after that he didn't pay them any mind. Once I saw he was really ok around them I used the opportunity to work sit/stay and down/stay with him. He was reluctant at first because of all the people around but he was doing really well towards the end of the evening. People were really impressed with how calm and collected he was during the whole evening. My friends dogs were going crazy, scared out of their minds, and a little terrier that came to the party had to be sedated because he was panicking. But my pup was solid as a rock. I was proud. If I can train him to retreive birds I may have a new hunting partner.
OUTSTANDING!!!

Keeping your head about you and taking the opportunity to work on commands with that many distractions is no easy task.

When things like that happen, I like to study the owners more than the dogs. Think back, how many of them were down trying to pet their dogs or telling them it will be OK, in essence rewarding their dogs for their behavior? Or on the other hand, how many of them over reacted and panicked themselves? Think about how their dogs fed off of their "weak" behavior.

You, on the other hand, took charge of the situation and didn't give the dog any reason to feel nervous. You won major points in his book for that. That is true leadership!!

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His walks are not going so hot. He gets so distracted that I am spending a lot of time saying "No" and correcting him. Any advice? He wants to greet everyone that comes within 50 feet, he wants to sniff every flower, lick every spot on the ground, drink from every puddle of water. So I am constantly having to tug on the leash and say "no". But the buckle collar just moves him, it doesn't really get him to pay attention to me.

I start puppy obedience tomorrow evening, I'll keep you posted.

Thanks for all your help Blinky.
Well at this age you're not going to get very long walks out of him, But When he starts to get distracted, you just need to stop and wait it out.

He wants to greet everyone because he gotten positive reinforcement from doing that in the past. It also places him in a dominate position because he controls the interaction. This can be worked on at home to start. Your new house rules for ANYONE that comes over, is "No petting, no talking and no eye contact." Basically, no acknowledgment at all until he calms down. On the walks, go a head and tell people that he's in training and you would appreciate if they ignored him. Most will understand and some will be offended, but who cares? You have to live with your dog, not them.

During the walk, you need to pay attention to what you are doing. You need to remain relaxed, with your shoulders back and your head up. You need to be confident and be the leader. If he wants to stop and sniff, you keep waking. If he wants to run ahead, you stop and wait. Don't get too concerned with leash corrections and even verbal commands. He's still small and there is a slight risk of neck injury. Plus, by stopping and waiting if he starts to run off, he's going to give himself a leash correction.

Another option for correcting him is to use a foot tap. This does require some balance though. Basically, what you're doing is taking the heel of your outside foot behind your inside leg and tapping him in the side. THIS IS NOT A KICK. Just a tap in the side to redirect his attention to you.

Also remember that you must lead 100%. So that means you go out/in doors first etc..

I anticipate that the trainer in the puppy classes will address walking. Obviously, if she doesn't, take some time to talk about your specific issues with her. Since she seems to be a good trainer so far then I'll defer to her on that since she can work with him and you in person.

So far you seem to be head and shoulders above the average dog owner. Keep it up and good luck!!
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Old 07-07-2009, 21:58   #558
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Well we had our first puppy obedience class at petco. We started the class off with a walk around the perimeter of the property as a group in a line. The trainer told me to just hang back and watch and not expect much since this is his first session. Upon observing I noticed he is on par or more advanced then over half the class despite being the youngest by 3 weeks and it being his first session. We then lined up facing the trainer and took turns walking up the line and back down the line. After that, we "went shopping" were we toured the store to teach the pups how to be among strangers (other shoppers) and how to behave in a store (not swiping treats off the shelf).

On the first walk, McBain did ok. He was really pulling trying to catch the dog in front of us. He was a bit reluctant to sit on command because he wasn't paying attention to me. He was too busy watching other dogs.

On the walk up and down the line, he did really good. Watched me the entire time and only broke concentration when another dog lurched at him.

Shopping went well also. This wasn't the first time he had been in a store setting or a public setting. He handled it as I was expecting. Loose leash for the majority of the shopping exercise.

All in all he did really good, especially compared to the other classmates. So much so that I'm wondering if this is worth our time.

The trainer did give us homework. She wants us to work off the leash on walks now. Her theory was that if we do it now and they don't follow, we can chase them down. If we wait till their older, they will not be able to be caught. She said this exersize promotes leadership by me and also allows him to investigate the world within my parameters and then to come when called. I found that to be interesting.

I did not have an opportunity to talk with her about our walking and focus because after class she had a higher priority issue to address with another family and their dog. Hopefully tomorrow night.

That was basically it. Class lasted about an hour. I think the socialization will be good but i don't think her standards of good dog behavior are as high as mine. I figure I will give it a few more sessions before I make any decisions.
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Old 07-08-2009, 09:31   #559
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McBain? sweet..

Honestly, I was kind of expecting your reaction to the class, as far was wondering if it's worth your time. In my opinion, I say stick with it. You actually have an advantage over the other dog owners here. Since you've taken the time to work with him and figure out methods that work for you and him, you're not bound by her methods alone. You can pick and choose what works and what doesn't for you two.

Here is a secret for you, any trainer that says that their method/philosophy is the absolute, 100% best, is full of it. Now, I'm very passionate about what I think, but I do know that there are other ways of dealing with issues. My philosophy has also grown and changed based on the different dogs and different owners that I have worked with. With that in mind, again, I say keep going, because you may learn some things that will really work for you that I don't nessessarly do or teach.

About defining a "good dog". Again, I was thinking you might say that. You have to remember here that she is working with lots of different owners and has to take that into account. Her focus is to try and help the owners get to the point where they can live with their puppies. Obviously you have gone past that stage, but there is always more to learn.

Now on to what I think, personally I don't understand the obsession with off leash walks, especially so early in the relationship. I don't worry about off leash walking until there is there is a very strong leader/follower relationship developed. Even at that age, the puppies are still going to be faster then their owners. There is also the greater risk of the puppy running off and getting hurt or even getting hit by a car. In my opinion off leash walking and loose leash walking are more advanced behaviors.

That said, I still support the idea of you continuing the classes. Many trainers will train loose/off leash walking at this stage, so it's not unheard of. Unless it's creating any financial hardship for you, that is.
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Old 07-08-2009, 09:45   #560
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McBain? sweet..
Yeah, his papered name is McBain Ranier Luftwaffe Wolfcastle. We call him McBain for simplicity. Only a few people have picked up on my reference. Even fewer have picked up on my inaccuracy. "He isn't an Austrian Shepherd"

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Honestly, I was kind of expecting your reaction to the class, as far was wondering if it's worth your time. In my opinion, I say stick with it. You actually have an advantage over the other dog owners here. Since you've taken the time to work with him and figure out methods that work for you and him, you're not bound by her methods alone. You can pick and choose what works and what doesn't for you two.
Thanks, I appreciate that feed back.

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Here is a secret for you, any trainer that says that their method/philosophy is the absolute, 100% best, is full of it. Now, I'm very passionate about what I think, but I do know that there are other ways of dealing with issues. My philosophy has also grown and changed based on the different dogs and different owners that I have worked with. With that in mind, again, I say keep going, because you may learn some things that will really work for you that I don't nessessarly do or teach.
That seems to apply in most professions I have noticed.

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About defining a "good dog". Again, I was thinking you might say that. You have to remember here that she is working with lots of different owners and has to take that into account. Her focus is to try and help the owners get to the point where they can live with their puppies. Obviously you have gone past that stage, but there is always more to learn.
That makes sense. Sort of like public school vs. private tutors I guess. When I talk with her one on one she definitely gives good tips. But in the class it was very watered down. Which, like you were saying, is probably to cater to the average dog owner attending.

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Now on to what I think, personally I don't understand the obsession with off leash walks, especially so early in the relationship. I don't worry about off leash walking until there is there is a very strong leader/follower relationship developed. Even at that age, the puppies are still going to be faster then their owners. There is also the greater risk of the puppy running off and getting hurt or even getting hit by a car. In my opinion off leash walking and loose leash walking are more advanced behaviors.
That was my thought as well. If McBain wants to be chased I already can't catch him. Perhaps if he was a toy poodle or something. I must say that I agree with yours and Mike's approach.

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That said, I still support the idea of you continuing the classes. Many trainers will train loose/off leash walking at this stage, so it's not unheard of. Unless it's creating any financial hardship for you, that is.
I was considering asking the trainer if I could just roll over my fee to the Basic Obedience Class. But I think I'll stick it out and call it good socialization. It'll also give me an opportunity to pick her brain one on one without having to catch her in the store. When I go for class I am not inclined to buy things, when I go to talk with her in the store I walk out with $100 worth of doggy stuff that I didn't need.

Thanks Blinky.
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Old 07-09-2009, 12:04   #561
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Hey Blinky, I posted the story in its own thread cause it wasn't really an "ask the trainer type of deal" but to make a long story short, we met my puppies older sister last night (6 months older). It was kind of a view into the future. His sister was very dog aggressive. She attempted to attack McBain but her owner restrained her. He blames it on the breeder and the fact that their dad was very aggressive. If this is true and it is bred into him, what can I do to not have this be an issue for McBain? I figure proper socialization is key so I decided that I will stay in this class so that he can be around other puppies and get as much socialization as he can. Do you have any other recommendations?

Thanks Blinky.
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Old 08-21-2009, 14:32   #562
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Hey Blinky, I posted the story in its own thread cause it wasn't really an "ask the trainer type of deal" but to make a long story short, we met my puppies older sister last night (6 months older). It was kind of a view into the future. His sister was very dog aggressive. She attempted to attack McBain but her owner restrained her. He blames it on the breeder and the fact that their dad was very aggressive. If this is true and it is bred into him, what can I do to not have this be an issue for McBain? I figure proper socialization is key so I decided that I will stay in this class so that he can be around other puppies and get as much socialization as he can. Do you have any other recommendations?

Thanks Blinky.
Wow, sorry for taking so long to get to this!!

First of all, blaming genetics like that is a cop out. Yes, some dogs are more dominate than others, but aggression is a totally separate issue. What that person is doing, is confusing a personality trait with a behavior. Aggression is a behavior and can be dealt with.

As far as you're concerned, socialization is never ever going to hurt anything, but you need to focus on your relationship with the dog. As long as your properly exercising him and have established the leader/follower relationship, the chance for any aggression problems are greatly reduced.
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Old 08-21-2009, 14:36   #563
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Thanks Blinky, no worries on the time it took to get back to me. I figured you were busy and then I forgot about my own post.

Everyone who has met his sister and met my pup have all said they seem like 2 different dogs. So I am glad to hear that aggression isn't genetic. But if it isn't genetic why are there dogs that everyone claims is predisposed to being dog aggressive dogs? Such as pit bulls, rottweillers, GSDs, etc? Is it just a high prey drive in their breed that owners mis-allocate into aggression (either on purpose or by accident)?
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Old 08-21-2009, 15:13   #564
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Thanks Blinky, no worries on the time it took to get back to me. I figured you were busy and then I forgot about my own post.

Everyone who has met his sister and met my pup have all said they seem like 2 different dogs. So I am glad to hear that aggression isn't genetic. But if it isn't genetic why are there dogs that everyone claims is predisposed to being dog aggressive dogs? Such as pit bulls, rottweillers, GSDs, etc? Is it just a high prey drive in their breed that owners mis-allocate into aggression (either on purpose or by accident)?
You're exactly right, the majority of owners don't understand the difference between aggression, dominance, energy and drive.

Energy, drive and dominance are personality traits of a dog. Most of the dogs that people label as aggressive are high energy dogs that the owners don't know how to deal with properly.

High energy dogs, well all dogs, but more so high energy, need to have structured outlets for their energy. If not, they will find their own outlets and most of the time they are destructive behaviors.

The issue of having a dominate dog comes up less than one might think. There are actually very few dogs with the skills to be a leader compared to the total number of dogs. If they were all born leaders, then there would be no packs.

Dogs are hard wired to have a leader. If they feel a void in that department, they will attempt to take the leadership role. As I pointed out, since the majority of dogs are not born leaders, they don't have the tools to take that roll and they usually end up with behavior issues.

Aggression is not the problem, but more so the outcome and/or symptom of other issues. Aggression is a behavior plain and simple. By addressing the bigger issues you will address the aggression.
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Old 09-10-2009, 18:06   #565
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Hey Blinky, got a question for you. It's been awhile, thought i'd work your brain a bit. My pup is 4.5 months old now and has started barking like crazy at the sight of other dogs. Once he is close enough to "attack" if he wanted to, he goes into play mode. Is this a behavior I should squash? Is this normal? He hasn't acted the least bit aggressive other then the bark and hair standing up. No snarling, no growling. If i need to squash it, how do you recommend I do it? I've done "No!", i've done leash corrections, I've grabbed by the nap of the neck with a stern no. He barks through it as though he can't control it (though I know he can). Its not a big deal if he is in the yard but it gets quite startling while driving in the truck with hi in the passenger seat. He will even bark at dogs he knows very well (my sister has 2 full grown labs that he plays with quite a bit) and as soon as he gets out of the truck he is all about play.

Also, he gets fixed tomorrow. So perhaps that will calm him down a smidge in that area?

Thanks
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Old 09-18-2009, 11:18   #566
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Old 09-18-2009, 18:48   #567
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Hey Blinky, got a question for you. It's been awhile, thought i'd work your brain a bit. My pup is 4.5 months old now and has started barking like crazy at the sight of other dogs. Once he is close enough to "attack" if he wanted to, he goes into play mode. Is this a behavior I should squash? Is this normal? He hasn't acted the least bit aggressive other then the bark and hair standing up. No snarling, no growling. If i need to squash it, how do you recommend I do it? I've done "No!", i've done leash corrections, I've grabbed by the nap of the neck with a stern no. He barks through it as though he can't control it (though I know he can). Its not a big deal if he is in the yard but it gets quite startling while driving in the truck with hi in the passenger seat. He will even bark at dogs he knows very well (my sister has 2 full grown labs that he plays with quite a bit) and as soon as he gets out of the truck he is all about play.

Also, he gets fixed tomorrow. So perhaps that will calm him down a smidge in that area?

Thanks
Well, it's normal in a sense that it sounds like you're dealing with a dog that has a high play drive. Really, the best way to deal with that is focused and structured activities. The first being the daily walks, but have you considered trying other activities with him? Maybe looking into agility and things like that?

As far as dealing with the behavior as it happens, this is where you have to outlast the dog. If you were a client of mine, I would approach this by first getting the dog very tired. Maybe a bike ride or really long walk, then placing the dog in a situation that would trigger the behavior. Once the dog starts the beginning of the behavior, you have to correct and then try to keep the focus on you. If he's responds to treats or has a favorite toy, this is a good time to use it to keep the dogs focus on you. It's also not a bad idea to stand in front of the dog, blocking his view of the other dogs. Do not remove your dog from the situation and do not get closer until the dog has focused on you. If the behavior starts 50 feet away, that's where you keep the dog, for as long as it takes. Then you can move closer, it may take a while, but with patience it can be done.

With a tired dog, you're not going to get as much resistance, but the point of the exercise will still stick with the dog through enough repetition.

edit, getting the dog fixed may help in that area, but since we're talking about play drive, then it's hard to say. It will help in other aspects though. Since you're dog will not be worried about reproducing etc.... the "bad" behaviors that can surround that will be less noticeable.
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Old 09-20-2009, 10:47   #568
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why does my dog keep throwing up bile?? 1-2 times a week now usally in the morning...
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Old 09-20-2009, 11:40   #569
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why does my dog keep throwing up bile?? 1-2 times a week now usally in the morning...
I'm not even going to attempt that one, sorry man. He needs to get to vet asap.
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Old 09-21-2009, 11:27   #570
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new...

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Old 02-24-2010, 16:39   #571
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I don't know if this thread is still active, I don't usually visit here. But I am having a problem with our puppy. We have a Siberian Husky that steals food from the table, counter tops or anywhere she finds it. She amazingly does not beg for food when we are eating, she just lays under the table but as soon as we are gone, if something is left she goes for it all nice and quiet. You walk into the room, she goes and hides with that look.

I have tried several things to try and break her of this bad habit but have been unsuccessful. Any advice would be greatly appreciated., thanks.
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Old 02-28-2010, 23:38   #572
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I don't know if this thread is still active, I don't usually visit here. But I am having a problem with our puppy. We have a Siberian Husky that steals food from the table, counter tops or anywhere she finds it. She amazingly does not beg for food when we are eating, she just lays under the table but as soon as we are gone, if something is left she goes for it all nice and quiet. You walk into the room, she goes and hides with that look.

I have tried several things to try and break her of this bad habit but have been unsuccessful. Any advice would be greatly appreciated., thanks.
I've heard that leaving mouse traps set on the counter tops, or other "booby-traps" are an effective deterrent. I have a Malamute that is tall enough to see whats on the counter, and he's not allowed in the kitchen at all, to keep him away from the counter surfing temptations.
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Old 03-01-2010, 05:17   #573
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I've heard that leaving mouse traps set on the counter tops, or other "booby-traps" are an effective deterrent. I have a Malamute that is tall enough to see whats on the counter, and he's not allowed in the kitchen at all, to keep him away from the counter surfing temptations.

That is a great idea but I think that my wife might have a different opinion. Plus my dog is a Husky, she will realize that it causes her pain, she will probably figure out a way to trip it with something first & then steal the food. Dam intelligent dogs!
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Old 03-02-2010, 07:54   #574
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Originally Posted by Nicky D View Post
I don't know if this thread is still active, I don't usually visit here. But I am having a problem with our puppy. We have a Siberian Husky that steals food from the table, counter tops or anywhere she finds it. She amazingly does not beg for food when we are eating, she just lays under the table but as soon as we are gone, if something is left she goes for it all nice and quiet. You walk into the room, she goes and hides with that look.

I have tried several things to try and break her of this bad habit but have been unsuccessful. Any advice would be greatly appreciated., thanks.
Sorry it took so long to reply, but how is she with her sit/down stays?
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Old 03-04-2010, 19:38   #575
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Hey Blinky, I got one for ya. I'm not sure how to correct it because I don't really know how to recreate it. Here is the situation:

A kid who lives on my block has one of those weedeater engine powered scooters. He flies up and down the block sporadically. My GSD will be mid nap, here him coming and bolt to the front yard fence and chase him the length of my yard barking (I have a fenced in front yard). I just got a text from my girlfriend who stopped by my house to do me a favor and while going in the house, the kid goes by on the scooter. My dog is gone. 2 blocks later he stops chasing and turns and she picks him up. Scolded him and he has been pouting ever since, she says. However, what concerns me is that last week, I came home, opened the gate to pull my truck in, and a kid on a bike goes by and he chases him down too. Absolutely no aggression, his tail is wagging and he thinks its a fun game. Prior to these 2 instances, he sit and stays while we pull a car into the yard. People have walked by, cars have driven by, kids have been playing in the street (which he struggles with his "stay" cause he wants to play with them so badly, but he never actually gets up). Any advice? He scared the snot out of both kids (when I say kids, they are 16ish) cause this 80 lb GSD is running at them and they don't understand that he just thinks they are playing.

Thanks Blinky.
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